eSUN PLA Basic warping and stringing are common problems when using the wrong temperature settings or improper drying, but both are completely preventable. This filament is engineered for ease of printing with a recommended nozzle temperature of 210-230°C and platform temperature of 45-60°C, yet many users experience these issues because they skip drying or don’t fine-tune their specific equipment. Here’s exactly how to fix eSUN PLA Basic warping and stringing using the manufacturer’s specifications and proven slicer adjustments.
Why eSUN PLA Basic Warps and Strings
Warping and stringing aren’t design flaws in eSUN PLA Basic—they’re symptoms of three specific problems: incorrect temperature, moisture in the filament, and suboptimal slicer settings. Understanding which one is causing your issues will get you to perfect prints much faster.
How nozzle temperature impacts stringing
Stringing (also called oozing or whiskers) happens when the nozzle temperature is too high. Molten plastic continues flowing from the nozzle during travel moves, leaving thin strands between unconnected parts. With eSUN PLA Basic, the sweet spot is 210-230°C according to the official specs, but the reality is that every printer behaves differently. If you’re printing at 230°C and seeing stringing, the filament is over-liquified and flowing too easily.
The physics here is straightforward: hotter plastic flows like water, cooler plastic flows like honey. At 220°C, most prints work well. At 235°C, you’ll see stringing. At 205°C, you might get under-extrusion. Start at 215°C and work from there once you’ve ruled out other factors.
Build platform temperature and warping correlation
Warping is a thermal stress issue. When eSUN PLA Basic cools unevenly—hot in the middle, cool at the edges—the plastic shrinks at different rates and pulls away from the platform. The recommended build platform temperature of 45-60°C is specifically designed to keep the bottom layers warm enough that they shrink uniformly with the layers above them.
If you’re running your platform at 30°C or room temperature, the bottom layer cools too fast and contracts while the top is still warm and expanding. This stress builds up and causes corners and edges to lift. Moisture also accelerates warping because wet filament undergoes additional shrinkage as the water evaporates during printing. The manual specifies 8 hours of drying at 50°C before printing—this is non-negotiable if warping is your issue.

Correct Nozzle Temperature Settings
Temperature is your primary control lever for eliminating stringing. eSUN PLA Basic responds well to precise temperature management, and the 210-230°C range gives you room to dial in your specific printer.
Recommended 210-230°C range for PLA Basic
The manufacturer tested this filament across the 210-230°C window and confirmed it prints reliably in this entire range. However, this is a range for exploration, not a one-size-fits-all setting. The actual optimal temperature depends on your nozzle size, line width, layer height, and cooling:
| Nozzle Size | Typical Optimal Temp | Range for Testing |
|---|---|---|
| 0.2mm | 215°C | 210-225°C |
| 0.4mm | 220°C | 210-230°C |
| 0.6mm | 225°C | 215-230°C |
| 0.8mm | 228°C | 220-230°C |
Smaller nozzles use less plastic per second, so the material cools faster in the nozzle—lower temperatures work better. Larger nozzles extrude more material faster, which requires slightly higher temperatures to maintain consistent flow. These are starting points; every printer has thermal characteristics that shift these numbers slightly.
How to dial in the exact temperature for your printer
Print a simple temperature tower—a model that prints the same part at decreasing temperatures from top to bottom. Available free on Thingiverse and Printables, these towers let you see all 5-6 temperature variations in a single 30-minute print. Look at which section has the cleanest layer lines, fewest visible defects, and least stringing. That’s your printer’s optimal temperature.
Slice the tower to start at 230°C and drop by 5°C every 10mm of height. Some slicers support temperature towers natively; others require manual gcode editing. The Bambu P1S (used in eSUN’s own testing) prints eSUN PLA Basic cleanly at 230°C, but your Prusa i3 or Creality printer might prefer 220°C or 215°C. Don’t assume the official data is your answer—use it as the starting point.
Testing different temperatures within the range
Once you’ve identified the optimal range with a tower, lock in the exact temperature by printing your actual part design. If you’re still seeing stringing at your tower-tested temperature, the next step is retraction settings (which are slicer-dependent and covered in a later section). Never assume one test is conclusive; print at least 2-3 small test parts before confirming your temperature.
Common mistake: users print at 210°C because it’s “cooler = less stringing” without realizing they’ve induced under-extrusion and weak layer adhesion. The filament won’t flow smoothly through your nozzle, gaps appear between layers, and parts snap easily. Find the Goldilocks temperature—not the minimum, not the maximum, but the one that produces the best-looking part with the cleanest top surface.
Build Platform Temperature Guide
Platform temperature is equally critical to nozzle temperature when preventing warping. eSUN PLA Basic has a heat distortion temperature of 50-60°C, which tells you exactly why the recommended platform temperature is 45-60°C—you’re keeping the bottom layers just below the point where the material begins to soften.
Why 45-60°C prevents warping on PLA Basic
When the platform is heated to 50-60°C, the first layer and subsequent layers stay warm and flexible. This means they don’t shrink sharply as the printer cools. Instead, the entire part cools gradually and uniformly, distributing shrinkage stress evenly. The material doesn’t have a “cold shock” at the bottom that causes the edges to contract faster than the interior.
At 45°C (the lower end), you still prevent warping, but adhesion to the platform can be marginal, especially on rough build surfaces. At 60°C (the upper end), adhesion is excellent and warping is virtually eliminated, but you’re pushing toward the heat distortion point. Most users find 55°C to be the sweet spot for eSUN PLA Basic—warm enough for reliable adhesion and zero warping, cool enough that the material doesn’t soften on the platform.
If your printer has a cold platform and warping is severe, increase the platform temperature to 60°C immediately. If you’re printing small parts or miniatures that tend to lift at the corners, try 55-58°C. Conversely, if you have adhesion problems (parts sliding mid-print), lower the temperature to 50°C rather than accepting warping—warping is harder to recover from than adhesion failure.
Choosing the right platform material (PEI recommendation)
eSUN specifies PEI (polyetherimide) as the recommended build platform material. PEI provides excellent adhesion to PLA, distributes heat evenly, and resists warping itself. If you’re using glass, bare aluminum, or powder-coated steel, you’re fighting uphill. PEI is non-negotiable for consistent results with eSUN PLA Basic.
PEI sheets cost $20-40 and stick to your existing platform. They’re replaceable when they wear out (typically 50-100 prints before visible wear, 200+ before needing replacement). Clean your PEI surface with isopropyl alcohol between prints to remove dust and residual plastic—buildup creates uneven adhesion and leads to warping in some areas but not others, which is confusing to diagnose.
Many users apply a thin coat of adhesive (glue stick, hair spray, or PEI adhesion promoter) to the PEI surface. This isn’t necessary for eSUN PLA Basic if your PEI is clean, but it does improve adhesion further. If you’re still seeing edge lift at 60°C platform temperature on clean PEI, a coat of adhesive will solve it 99% of the time.
Temperature testing and adjustment
Your platform temperature can be tested independently of nozzle temperature. Print a 50mm x 50mm single-layer calibration cube at your normal settings. If the corners lift noticeably (more than 1mm), increase platform temperature by 5°C. If they don’t lift at all and adhesion seems rock-solid, your current temperature is probably optimal.
Watch the first layer being printed. The plastic should stick to the platform immediately and not move when you’re not manually moving the nozzle. If the first layer is sliding around or has visible gaps, the platform is too cold. If the first layer oozes excessively and becomes a thick bead, the platform is too hot or your nozzle is too close—adjust the offset rather than the temperature in that case.

Slicer Settings to Eliminate Stringing
Once your temperatures are correct, slicer settings are the second line of defense against stringing. eSUN’s official printing tips specifically call out four slicer adjustments that directly reduce stringing on this filament.
Z seam alignment and starting point alignment functions
The Z seam is the visible line where the nozzle completes one loop and starts the next on a vertical wall. By default, most slicers place this seam randomly, which can create weak spots or visible artifacts. More importantly, turning on “Z seam alignment” tells the slicer to place the seam in the same location every loop—usually on a corner where it’s less visible.
Paired with “starting point alignment,” this function also controls where the nozzle travels from one section to another. Instead of random paths, the slicer plans efficient routes that minimize the distance the nozzle travels without extrusion. Shorter travel distances mean less time for oozing to occur.
In Cura (the most common slicer), these are found under:
Z Seam Alignment: Infill → Z Seam Alignment: “Shortest” or “User Specified”
Starting Point: Infill → Starting Point: “Corners” or manual selection
In PrusaSlicer, look for:
Seam Position: Perimeters → Seam position: “Aligned”
Travel Settings: Travel → Avoid crossing perimeters: Enabled
Enabling these functions reduces stringing by 30-50% on their own, even without touching retraction settings.
Disabling Z-axis lift and exit properly
Z-axis lift (also called “Z-Hop”) lifts the nozzle vertically during travel moves to prevent it from dragging across printed surfaces. While this sounds helpful, it can actually increase stringing on materials like eSUN PLA Basic because:
1. The nozzle is molten for longer during the lift movement
2. It travels a longer total distance (up, across, down instead of directly across)
3. More material has time to ooze out
eSUN explicitly states to “turn off the Z-axis lift and exit” in their printing tips. This is counterintuitive but proven to work on this filament. The slicer should instead use horizontal travel paths that avoid surfaces.
In Cura: Travel → Z Hop: Disabled
In PrusaSlicer: Travel → Only lift Z: Disabled
The exception: if you’re printing multiple disconnected objects, minimal Z-hop (0.2-0.4mm) can prevent the nozzle from hitting finished parts. But for single objects or parts in a grid, disable it completely.
Optimizing slicing printing path
This refers to the order in which the slicer draws lines and shapes. An optimized path minimizes the number of travel moves (movements without extrusion). Every travel move is an opportunity for stringing—the hotter, longer, and more numerous your travels, the more stringing you get.
In Cura, enable “Optimize Wall Printing Order” and set “Connect Infill Lines” to reduce travels. In PrusaSlicer, enable “Avoid crossing perimeters” and reduce the “Travel cost” to prioritize shorter paths over distance.
This is where slicer quality matters. Budget slicers like the default Creality slicer produce less optimized paths than Cura or PrusaSlicer. If you’re using your printer’s default slicer and seeing excessive stringing despite correct temperatures, switching to Cura (free) or PrusaSlicer (free) alone can eliminate 40% of the problem.
Printing Speed Configuration
Speed is the final temperature-adjacent control. Faster printing produces hotter layers (more friction from extrusion) and faster cooling (less time for material to settle). eSUN PLA Basic specifies a maximum printing speed of 300mm/s, but this is a ceiling, not a target.
Maximum 300mm/s speed for quality prints
At 300mm/s, eSUN PLA Basic extrudes cleanly on capable machines (like the Bambu P1S used in their testing), but dimensional accuracy and surface finish decline. For general-purpose prints where appearance matters, 150-200mm/s is optimal. For rapid prototyping and draft prints, you can push to 250mm/s.
Speed affects stringing because faster travel moves reduce the time the nozzle spends crossing empty space while still hot. Counterintuitively, this can reduce stringing. However, if your nozzle temperature is already correct, speed has minimal impact on stringing compared to retraction and Z seam settings.
Where speed matters more is warping: faster printing means less time for the material to cool and shrink unevenly. Slower speeds allow more heat to dissipate before the next layer is applied, which can actually improve warping prevention. A good middle ground is 180-220mm/s for eSUN PLA Basic.
Reducing speed during critical sections
Your slicer allows you to set different speeds for different features. Use these settings on eSUN PLA Basic:
| Feature | Speed | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| First Layer | 25-50% of normal | Adhesion and accuracy |
| Outer Walls (Perimeters) | 80-90% of normal | Surface finish and dimensional accuracy |
| Infill | 100-120% of normal | Speed without compromising strength |
| Top/Bottom Layers | 70-80% of normal | Smoothness and accuracy |
Specifically, reducing speed on the first layer to 40% of your normal speed (so if normal is 200mm/s, print the first layer at 80mm/s) dramatically improves adhesion and prevents warping at the critical adhesion point. This adds maybe 2 minutes to a 2-hour print but eliminates most warping issues.
Fan speed at 100% for best results
eSUN PLA Basic benefits from maximum cooling. The specification calls for 100% fan speed, and you should use this on all models except the very first layer (where fan cooling can create adhesion problems). Run your fans at full power after the first layer completes.
Cooling accelerates plastic solidification, which freezes the shape and prevents warping. More cooling also hardens the plastic faster, which means you’re less likely to see stringing because the material becomes solid before the nozzle can ooze it into thin strings.
If your printer has multiple cooling fans, make sure all are functional. A blocked or broken fan will cause inconsistent cooling and lead to warping on one side of the model. Test your fans before printing by listening for them to spin during the first layer (they’ll activate after it completes) and checking that they blow air toward the nozzle.

Pre-Print Drying: Prevent Moisture Issues
If you’ve corrected temperatures, platform settings, and slicer config but still see warping, your filament is wet. This is the most commonly overlooked cause of both warping and stringing.
Why 8 hours at 50°C is critical
PLA is hygroscopic—it absorbs moisture from the air. When filament absorbs water, the moisture gets trapped inside the plastic and creates additional shrinkage during printing. This compounds the normal thermal shrinkage and leads to severe warping that no temperature adjustment can fix.
The drying specification is explicit: 50°C for 8 hours minimum. This is the lowest temperature that reliably removes moisture from PLA without degrading the material (PLA degrades starting around 160°C, so 50°C is safe). At 50°C, water molecules gain enough energy to escape the plastic matrix without breaking down the polymer chains.
The process works like this: place your filament spool in a filament dryer (or an oven set to 50°C) with ventilation. The heat causes moisture to evaporate from the surface. Moisture from the interior gradually migrates to the surface and escapes. After 8 hours, moisture content has dropped from typically 0.5-1.5% (wet state) to under 0.2% (dry state).
One 8-hour drying cycle works for newly opened spools or filament stored in dry conditions. If your filament has been exposed to humidity for weeks or months, dry it for 12-16 hours to be certain. You can verify dryness indirectly: if you’re seeing warping at correct temperatures with correct platform heat, the filament is wet—dry it again.
Signs your filament is wet
Wet eSUN PLA Basic shows specific symptoms:
Stringing that persists despite correct temperatures: Moisture creates tiny steam bubbles in the molten plastic, which promotes oozing and surface defects
Warping even at 60°C platform temperature: Moisture-induced shrinkage exceeds thermal shrinkage, lifting corners regardless of heat
Layer separation or delamination: Water weakens the bond between layers
Clicking or grinding from the extruder: Moisture creates steam pockets that disrupt extrusion flow
Dull, textured surface instead of glossy: Moisture vaporization creates micro-pits in the surface
If you see any of these despite correct settings, dry your filament immediately. Prevention is easier than troubleshooting: store eSUN PLA Basic in a sealed container with desiccant (silica gel packets) between printing sessions. Vacuum-sealed bags work even better. Most filament arrives with desiccant in the bag—keep it sealed until ready to print.
Impact on warping and print quality
Moisture’s effect on warping is disproportionate to its amount. A filament at 0.5% moisture content by weight will show 2-3x more warping than dry filament, even with identical printer settings. This is because water doesn’t just add shrinkage—it creates uneven shrinkage as steam pockets form and collapse during cooling.
For print quality, moisture affects surface finish, dimensional accuracy, and mechanical strength. A wet print might look acceptable at first but be brittle and prone to cracking under stress. Layer adhesion is compromised, so parts snap easily. If you’re getting multiple complaints about warping, delamination, or poor surface quality across different design files, the problem isn’t your printer—it’s your filament storage.
Check your drying box: if it’s a dollar-store food dehydrator, verify it actually maintains 50°C (many don’t). If it’s an oven, confirm the temperature with a separate thermometer—many ovens are off by 10-20°C, which means you’re baking your filament at 60-70°C instead of drying it. Incorrect drying temperature wastes filament and time.

Summary: Your eSUN PLA Basic Warping and Stringing Checklist
Use this checklist whenever you experience warping or stringing:
Before Every Print:
☐ Dry filament 8 hours at 50°C (non-negotiable if warping occurs)
☐ Clean PEI build surface with isopropyl alcohol
☐ Verify platform temperature is 50-60°C (aim for 55°C)
☐ Set nozzle temperature to 215-220°C initially, adjust from there
☐ Enable Z seam alignment in slicer
☐ Disable Z-axis hop/Z-lift
☐ Enable optimized path planning
☐ Reduce first-layer speed to 40% of normal
☐ Set fan to 100% after first layer
If Still Seeing Stringing:
☐ Lower nozzle temp by 5°C and retest
☐ Increase retraction distance by 1-2mm in slicer
☐ Increase retraction speed by 10mm/s
☐ Verify nozzle isn’t partially clogged (do a cold pull)
If Still Seeing Warping:
☐ Increase platform temp to 60°C
☐ Apply adhesion promoter to PEI
☐ Re-dry filament 12 hours at 50°C
☐ Verify platform heating element works (use thermal imaging if available)
☐ Switch to a different slicer if using default printer firmware slicer
eSUN PLA Basic is specifically formulated to resist warping and stringing compared to standard PLA. If you’re still having problems after following these settings, your printer’s hardware (heater blocks, fans, temperature sensors) may have issues requiring hardware troubleshooting.
FAQ
What’s the difference between eSUN PLA Basic and other PLA filaments when it comes to warping?
eSUN PLA Basic is a modified PLA formulation designed for easier printing and better warping resistance than standard PLA. The manufacturer specifically advertises this as a strength of the product. However, the performance advantage only applies if you use the recommended settings—50-60°C platform temperature, 210-230°C nozzle, and proper drying. Using eSUN PLA Basic at incorrect temperatures gives you no advantage over cheap PLA.
Can I dry eSUN PLA Basic at a higher temperature to speed up drying?
No. The specification is 50°C for a reason. Higher temperatures risk material degradation and don’t significantly speed drying (a little bit of extra heat saves maybe 1-2 hours over 16 hours). At 70°C or higher, you’re degrading the polymer chains and potentially creating weak points in the filament. Stick to 50°C exactly, or lower if your drying box can’t maintain precise temperature.
My printer doesn’t have a heated bed. Can I still print eSUN PLA Basic without warping?
Theoretically yes, but practically no. Without heated platform, you’d need extremely precise environment control (room temperature exactly 20°C, zero drafts, enclosed build chamber) and couldn’t print anything larger than 30x30mm without significant warping. A heated bed is essential equipment for this filament. If your printer doesn’t have one, it’s a $50-150 upgrade worth doing.
Does eSUN PLA Basic need a cooling fan while printing?
Yes, absolutely. The specification calls for 100% fan speed. Some slicers default to reduced fan speed thinking cooler materials need less cooling, but eSUN explicitly requires maximum cooling. Run your fans at full power after the first layer (reduce to 20-30% on the first layer to maintain adhesion, then ramp to 100%).
If I’m printing at correct temperatures with a heated bed but still getting stringing, what should I check next?
In order of likelihood: (1) Your filament is wet—dry it 12 hours at 50°C; (2) Your retraction settings in the slicer are too low—increase retraction distance by 2mm and retraction speed by 5mm/s; (3) Your nozzle is slightly clogged—do a cold pull with PLA; (4) Your travel moves aren’t optimized—switch to Cura or PrusaSlicer if using a basic slicer. Temperature is rarely the problem if you’re already in the 210-230°C range.