Question 1

the control knob feels loose and sometimes skips past the cycle i want to select.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The cycle selector knob is not engaging properly with the timer (or electronic control) shaft behind it. The plastic splines inside the knob or on the shaft are worn down or broken. FIX The knob just pulls straight off. Pull firmly. Inspect the inside of the knob—you'll see a pattern of ridges. If they're rounded or cracked, you need a new knob. The part number is often W11035631. If the knob looks fine, then the issue is with the shaft of the timer/control itself. With the knob off, try to turn the shaft with pliers (gently). If it turns but doesn't click through cycles, the internal timer mechanism is faulty and the whole control unit needs replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If replacing the knob doesn't fix the "skipping," there might be a broken detent spring inside the timer assembly that provides the clicking feel. That's not a repairable part—it's a full timer replacement. HEADS UP When ordering a new knob, make sure you get the right one for your specific model. There are subtle differences in the graphics and the spline count that won't be compatible otherwise.

Question 2

it won't drain at all, just sits full of water at the end of a cycle.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The drain pump is either clogged or dead. A small object like a sock, coin, or bra wire can jam the impeller, or the pump motor can burn out from the strain. FIX Unplug the washer. Access is through the lower front panel. There are two clips on the bottom edge—push in on them and pull the panel toward you. You'll see the drain pump at the bottom center with a hose going to it. Place a shallow pan underneath. Disconnect the drain hose clamp and the wire connector. Remove the pump (usually a couple of screws). Check the impeller inside—you should be able to spin it freely by hand. If it's stuck, clear the debris. If it spins rough or not at all, the pump (part number like WPW10749474) needs replacing. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the pump hums but doesn't move water, the impeller might be broken off its shaft internally. You'll need a new pump. Also, check the drain hose itself for a kink or blockage all the way to the standpipe. HEADS UP When you reconnect the drain hose to the new pump, double-clamp it. Those spring clamps can lose tension. A small worm-gear hose clamp over the factory one adds insurance against a leak.

Question 3

the washer shakes violently and walks across the floor during the spin cycle.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The suspension rods are worn out or the shipping bolts weren't removed. This model uses four spring-dampener assemblies (rods) that connect the tub to the corners of the outer cabinet. They absorb the wobble. When they lose tension, the tub can bounce around. FIX Unplug and pull the machine out. Tip it back (get help) and look at the bottom. You'll see one end of each rod connected to the tub base with a nut. The other end hooks into the cabinet corner. They can be replaced individually. The part is often W11035679 for a rod kit. You'll need a socket to remove the bottom nut and a bit of wrestling to get the new rod's hook into the cabinet bracket. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Make absolutely sure the three or four large bolts and spacers used for shipping transport are removed from the back of the cabinet. If they're still in, the tub is rigidly locked to the frame and will shake terribly. HEADS UP Also check that the locknuts on the legs themselves are tight. The machine should be firm on the floor, not rocking. Use a wrench, not your hands, to adjust them.

Question 4

water keeps filling into the tub even when the washer is off, it's slowly leaking onto the floor.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The water inlet valve is stuck open. This solenoid-controlled valve lets hot and cold water in. If one of the little solenoids fails or if debris from your water lines holds the internal diaphragm open, water will slowly seep through even without electrical power. FIX Turn off both hot and cold water supply lines at the wall. Unplug washer. The inlet valve is at the back, top-left corner, where the hoses connect. Disconnect the hoses and the wire harness. Remove the two screws holding it to the cabinet. The replacement part number is typically WPW10749472. Install the new one, reconnect hoses and wires. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the slow fill continues, the problem could be back-pressure from the drain system. Check that the drain hose isn't shoved too far down the standpipe—it can create a siphon. It should only be inserted 6-8 inches, and there should be an air gap. HEADS UP Before installing the new valve, take a second to flush your supply hoses into a bucket to clear out any sediment that might wreck the new valve. Installing cheap inlet hose filters is a good idea.

Question 5

clothes are sopping wet at the end of the cycle, like the spin never happened.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The washer isn't reaching high spin speed, or it's canceling the spin due to an "unbalanced load" error. On these models, a failing lid lock switch can cause this—the machine thinks the lid is open during spin and slows down for safety. FIX First, run an empty load on the "Drain & Spin" cycle. Listen closely. If it attempts to spin but sounds labored or stops quickly, it's likely the lid lock. Test/replace the lid lock assembly as described in the first fix. Also, check that the machine is perfectly level front-to-back and side-to-side; an unlevel machine will fault out on spin. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the motor hums but nothing spins, the drive belt might be broken or off the pulley. Unplug, tilt the machine back (put a board under the front feet first), and look underneath. The belt should be tight around the motor pulley and transmission pulley. A broken belt will be obvious. HEADS UP Never try to bypass the lid lock by taping the switch down. The spin cycle is dangerous if the lid can be opened. The machine is stopping for a reason—find and fix the actual fault.

Question 6

the washer fills up with water but then just sits there, doesn't agitate at all.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The agitator dogs (also called agitator cams or splutch) are stripped out. These are plastic pieces inside the top of the agitator that engage with the drive shaft to make it rock back and forth. When they wear down, the shaft spins but the agitator doesn't move. FIX Pull off the fabric softener dispenser from the top of the agitator. Underneath, you'll find a plastic cap. Pry it off to reveal a bolt (sometimes a special spline-head). Remove that bolt and you can lift the entire plastic agitator off the shaft. Inside the base of the agitator, you'll see the worn plastic dogs. The repair kit (part number like WPW10006355) includes new dogs and often the bolt/washer. Drop the new ones in, reassemble, and you're set. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the agitator now works but there's a loud clunking with each reversal, you might have installed the dogs incorrectly—they have a specific orientation. Take it apart and make sure they're seated in the tracks properly. HEADS UP Don't overtighten the center bolt when you put the agitator back on. It's just supposed to hold the agitator down, not crush the plastic. Snug is fine.

Question 7

washer is making a loud grinding noise only on the spin cycle, sounds like metal on metal.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's the classic sound of a worn-out spider arm. The spider is a three-armed bracket that connects the inner tub to the transmission shaft. On these models, it's made of aluminum and can corrode and crack over time, especially with heavy loads. FIX This is a major repair. You have to disconnect everything, pull the entire tub out of the cabinet, and separate the inner and outer tubs to access the spider (it's bolted to the back of the inner tub). The part number is often W11038757. You'll need a special spider arm removal tool or a very large socket. While you're in there, check the tub bearings—if the spider failed, they're probably shot too. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the noise is more of a high-pitched squeal or whine during agitation AND spin, it could be the motor coupler (a cheap plastic piece with three arms) has sheared. That's a much easier and cheaper fix—it's behind the back panel. HEADS UP This isn't a beginner job. The tub assembly is incredibly heavy. Assess the cost of the parts and your labor versus the age of the machine—it might be the tipping point for replacement.

Question 8

my amana ntw4516fw washer just beeps at me and won't start a cycle, the lid is closed and it's plugged in.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The control board is seeing a "lid lock" error, even though the lid is closed. The microswitch inside the lid lock assembly is either faulty or the actuator that presses it is misaligned. FIX Unplug the washer. Pop off the control panel by lifting the front edge up. You'll see the lid lock mechanism on the top right corner of the cabinet frame. Unplug its wire harness. Use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity—when you manually press the little plastic plunger, it should click and the meter should beep. If it doesn't, the lock assembly (part number WPW10306376 is common for this series) needs replacement. It's held by two screws. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the switch tests good, the wire harness might have a break. Trace it back to the main control board and check for any pinched or frayed wires, especially near the hinge area. HEADS UP When you reassemble, make sure the little plastic "finger" on the lid itself is actually hitting the lock's plunger squarely. If it's bent, the switch never gets pressed.

Amana NTW4516FW Top Load Washer

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