Question 1

i get a burst of air or sputtering water every time i first open the apec faucet

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Air has gotten into the system, usually in the tubing between the last filter and the tank, or the tank itself has some air in the water side. This is common after filter changes or if the system hasn't been used for a while. FIX Let it purge. Open the RO faucet fully and let it run for a minute or two, even if it's sputtering and spraying. Catch the water in a pitcher. The system will push the air out of the lines. The sputtering should stop once the lines are cleared of air. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it persists, you might have a small leak on the inlet side (before the membrane) that's sucking in air when the system is off. Check all fittings on the feed water side for tightness. HEADS UP Don't confuse this with the normal sound of the tank emptying. When the tank is nearly empty, the flow will get weaker and you might hear a gurgle from the tank—that's different from the initial air blast from the faucet.

Question 2

my water pressure is fine but the ro system seems to produce water super slow

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The most common cause is a clogged filter, usually the sediment filter. Low feed water temperature (below 40°F) can also drastically slow production, or the membrane is fouled. FIX Check and replace your first-stage sediment filter. If it's brown and packed, that's your problem. Also, check your water temperature. RO systems work half as fast at 50°F compared to 77°F. If filters and temp are okay, your membrane might be scaled or clogged. If it's over 2-3 years old, it's likely time for a replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the auto-shutoff valve. A partially failed ASO valve can restrict feed water flow to the membrane, slowing production. You can test by temporarily bypassing it, but that's a more advanced fix. HEADS UP Production rate is listed as gallons per day (GPD) at standard conditions (77°F, 60 PSI). Your real-world output will be less. The ROES-50 membrane is a 50 GPD membrane, so expecting a gallon per hour is unrealistic unless conditions are perfect.

Question 3

the faucet on my apec system is leaking around the base where it meets the counter

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The leak isn't from the RO system's plumbing, it's from the installation hardware of the faucet itself. The mounting nut underneath the counter is probably loose or the seal/washer is compromised. FIX You'll need to get under the sink. Hold the faucet steady from above while you tighten the large plastic mounting nut underneath the countertop. Don't overtighten, just snug it up. If that doesn't stop it, you'll need to disassemble it. Remove the nut, take the faucet off, and check the rubber or plastic gasket/washer that sits against the countertop. Replace it if it's cracked or flattened. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The leak might actually be coming from the tubing connection at the base of the faucet and running down the stem, making it look like a base leak. Check the compression fitting where the 1/4" tube connects to the faucet valve underneath and tighten it slightly. HEADS UP If you have a soap dispenser hole or air gap faucet, make sure the leak isn't actually from a different hole in the sink where water is splashing. Isolate the leak by drying everything and running only the RO faucet.

Question 4

there's a puddle of water under my apec roes-50, how do i find the leak?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Leaks usually come from loose connections or cracked filter sump housings. The most common spots are the quick-connect fittings and the O-rings on the filter housings. FIX Dry everything thoroughly with a towel. Turn the water back on and watch closely. Start at the top where the water line enters the first housing and follow the path. Pay special attention to the white quick-connect fittings—push the tubing in firmly until it clicks. If a housing is leaking at the seam, turn off the water, remove the housing, and check the O-ring for nicks or debris. Clean it, lubricate it with a tiny bit of silicone grease (food-grade), and re-tighten the housing. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the drain line connection at the saddle valve or the air gap faucet (if you have one). A loose drain line clamp can cause a slow drip that runs down the cabinet. HEADS UP Don't just crank down on the plastic filter housings with all your might to stop a leak. You'll crack them. The seal is made by the O-ring, not brute force.

Question 5

my apec ro system tank seems to have low pressure, water just dribbles out of the faucet

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The air pressure in the blue storage tank bladder is too low. The tank has a pre-charge of air (usually around 7-8 PSI) that pushes the water out. Over time, this air can bleed out or get absorbed. FIX Shut off the feed water and open the RO faucet to empty the tank completely. You'll know it's empty when no more water comes out. Close the faucet. Check the air pressure at the Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve) on the tank with a pressure gauge. It should be around 7 PSI. If it's low, use a bicycle pump or low-pressure air compressor to add air until it reaches 7 PSI. Then turn the feed water back on and let the tank refill. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The tank bladder might be ruptured. If adding air doesn't hold or you hear a hiss of air when the tank is empty, the tank itself needs to be replaced. HEADS UP Never pressurize the tank with water in it. You'll get a false reading and can damage the bladder. Always drain it first.

Question 6

the water from my apec system tastes weird or has a bad odor after i changed the filters

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is almost always carbon fines or air from the new filters contaminating the water. New carbon block filters need to be flushed thoroughly. FIX You need to flush the system. With the storage tank valve closed and the RO faucet open, let the system run for a good 30-45 minutes, sending all the new water straight down the drain. This purges the carbon dust and trapped air. After flushing, close the faucet, open the tank valve, let the tank refill, and then drain that first full tank as well. Taste should be back to normal after the second tank. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Verify you installed the filters in the correct order. The sediment filter goes in the first housing, the carbon block in the second. If you swapped them, carbon fines could be getting to the membrane and causing taste issues. HEADS UP Always use a wrench to tighten the filter housings, but don't over-tighten. Hand-tight plus a quarter-turn with the wrench is enough. A loose housing can also let in unfiltered water and cause bad taste.

Question 7

just installed my apec roes-50 and the tank won't fill up at all, zero water coming out

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The system is likely air-locked, especially if you just hooked it up. Air trapped in the membrane housing or filters prevents water from flowing through properly. FIX Shut off the feed water valve and the tank valve. Open the RO faucet to depressurize the system. Then, disconnect the tubing from the inlet side of the membrane housing (the one coming from the last filter). Point the tube into a bucket and slowly turn the feed water valve back on. Let water flush through the tube and into the bucket for 30 seconds to clear any air. Reconnect the tube, turn the feed water back on, and open the tank valve. It should start filling now. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Double-check that you've removed all the protective plastic plugs from the filter housings and the quick-connect fittings. It's an easy thing to miss during setup and will completely block flow. HEADS UP The first tank fill can take several hours. Don't panic if it's slow, but you should at least hear water trickling into the tank within the first 30 minutes after clearing the air lock.

Question 8

my apec roes-50 system is making a constant hissing sound from the drain line, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's the sound of water continuously flowing down the drain. It usually means the auto-shutoff valve (ASO) isn't sealing, so the system never stops producing water and waste water. FIX First, check your feed water pressure. If it's below 40 PSI, the ASO valve can't build enough backpressure to shut off. You might need a booster pump. If pressure is fine, the ASO valve itself is likely gunked up or faulty. You can try cleaning the valve by removing it (shut off water and depressurize the system first) and flushing it with warm water. If cleaning doesn't work, you'll need to replace it. It's a common part that wears out. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK A less common culprit is a clogged or restricted flow restrictor in the drain line. If the restrictor is blocked, it prevents the proper backpressure from reaching the ASO valve. Check the blue flow restrictor fitting in the drain line adapter and clean or replace it. HEADS UP Letting this run constantly will wear out your membranes and filters way faster and spike your water bill. Don't ignore a hissing drain line for more than a day or two.

APEC ROES-50 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis System

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