Question 1

it turns on for a few minutes then shuts off by itself, and the bucket isn't full. it just cycles on and off.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This short-cycling is often caused by a dirty air filter or the unit being placed in a cramped space. The coil gets too cold too fast, a sensor trips, it shuts off to thaw, then restarts, creating a frustrating loop. FIX 1) Let’s rule out placement. The unit needs at least 12-18 inches of clearance on all sides, especially the front (air intake) and back (where the hot air exhausts). Move it away from walls, curtains, or furniture. 2) Clean the air filter. Unplug, pull the filter out from behind the grille, rinse it thoroughly, let it dry completely, and reinstall. A clogged filter is the #1 cause of this. 3) Check your humidity setting. If it’s set too low (like 35%) for a very damp room, it might hit that target quickly, shut off, then turn back on when humidity rises a tick. Try setting it to 50% or ‘Continuous’ mode for a longer test run. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it continues to short-cycle with a clean filter and good airflow, the ambient temperature might be too low. If the room is below 65°F, the evaporator coil will frost over almost immediately, triggering the off cycle. You’d need a ‘low temperature’ model for that space. HEADS UP Listen closely when it shuts off. If you hear a ‘click’ and then a whooshing or gurgling sound, that’s the system equalizing pressure—a normal sign it’s the compressor turning off on a cycle, not due to an error.

Question 2

the display works but none of the buttons on the control panel do anything. it's stuck on one setting.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is typically a control board issue or, more commonly, the touch-sensitive buttons have become unresponsive due to moisture, dirt, or a simple electronic lock-up. FIX Start with a full power reset. 1) Unplug the unit from the wall outlet. 2) Wait a full 10 minutes. This allows any residual power in the control board to drain completely. 3) While it’s unplugged, take a dry, soft cloth and firmly wipe across the entire control panel to clean off any film or moisture. 4) Plug the unit directly back into the wall outlet (not a power strip). The display should light up. Try pressing the ‘Mode’ or ‘Humidity Set’ button firmly with a dry finger. The buttons sometimes need a deliberate press. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the reset doesn’t restore button function, the control panel itself may have failed. On some Danby models, the control panel is a separate, replaceable part that connects with a wire harness. You can search for a replacement part online using your full model number. Replacing it involves removing the top casing, which is straightforward if you’re comfortable with a screwdriver. HEADS UP Avoid using chemical cleaners or sprays directly on the control panel. If you need to clean it, put the cleaner on the cloth first, not on the unit, to prevent liquid from seeping behind the buttons.

Question 3

i want to use the continuous drain hose but can't figure out where it connects or how to set it up.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You need to redirect the water flow from the internal bucket to the external hose outlet. It’s a simple switch, but you have to find the right parts first. FIX 1) Unplug the unit and empty the bucket. 2) Look at the back of the unit, near the bottom. You should see a small, round plastic cap or plug—that’s the drain outlet. 3) Pull that plug straight out (it might be tight). 4) Take your standard 5/8” ID (inner diameter) vinyl drain hose (not usually included) and push one end firmly onto the now-exposed spigot. 5) Route the other end of the hose to a floor drain, sink, or sump pump. Ensure the hose runs downhill without any kinks or loops where water could get trapped. 6) Most importantly, with the hose installed, the bucket must still be in place in the unit. The internal float switch is in the bucket compartment, so the unit won’t run without it. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If water isn’t flowing out the hose, check for two things: a kink in the hose, or the unit itself isn’t level. The drain works by gravity, so the unit needs to be perfectly level or even tilted very slightly back towards the drain outlet. HEADS UP Even with the hose hooked up, check the empty bucket occasionally for leaks or debris. And always keep the bucket seated—if you remove it while the hose is connected, the unit will stop and display the ‘CO’ error.

Question 4

it's making a loud gurgling or bubbling noise, like water is trapped somewhere inside. is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That’s usually normal operation, especially right after startup or shutdown. It’s the sound of refrigerant moving through the coils as the system pressurizes or depressurizes. A constant, loud gurgle might point to an installation issue. FIX First, check that the unit is perfectly level, front-to-back and side-to-side. Use a small bubble level on top of the unit. If it’s tilted, the water from the coils might not be flowing smoothly into the drain pan or bucket, causing it to ‘waterfall’ and create noise. Adjust the feet on the bottom until it’s level. Second, ensure the water bucket is fully and firmly seated. A slightly misaligned bucket can amplify internal sounds. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the gurgling is accompanied by poor water collection or freezing (see above), it could indicate a low refrigerant charge, where the refrigerant boils too early in the cycle. That’s a repair issue. But if it’s just noise and it’s working fine, it’s likely just the sound of the system doing its job. HEADS UP These units are generally quieter on ‘Low Fan’ speed. If the noise bothers you, try that setting. The gurgling tends to be more pronounced on ‘High Fan’.

Question 5

how do i clean the inside of this thing? it's starting to smell musty when it runs.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That musty smell is mildew or mold growing on the damp evaporator coils or in the drip tray inside the unit. It’s a common maintenance issue, especially if it’s been running a lot. FIX You’ll need to give the core a good cleaning. 1) Unplug it and empty the bucket. 2) Remove the front grille (it usually snaps off or is held by a couple of screws). Pull out the foam filter and wash it separately. 3) Now you can see the aluminum fins of the evaporator coil. In a spray bottle, mix a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water. Liberally spray the coils and the plastic housing around them, letting the vinegar work for 10 minutes to kill the mildew. 4) Use a soft brush (a clean paintbrush works) to gently dislodge any dust from the fins. 5) Wipe everything down with a damp cloth. Let it air dry completely for a few hours before reassembling and plugging it back in. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the smell persists, the drain pan or channels deep inside might be gunked up. You can try using a commercial coil cleaner spray from a hardware store, following carefully. For a deep clean, some models allow you to remove the rear panel, but that’s more involved. HEADS UP Never use harsh chemicals like bleach or abrasive scrubbers on the aluminum coils—you can damage the delicate fins and the special coating. Vinewater or a mild coil cleaner is the way to go.

Question 6

the fan runs but the compressor never kicks on, so it just acts like a fan. what's wrong with it?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is often a protection delay. The compressor has a built-in timer that prevents it from restarting for about 3 minutes after it shuts off, to protect it from damage. If you’re cycling power quickly, you’ll hear the fan but not the compressor. FIX Unplug the unit from the wall. Wait a full 5 minutes—set a timer. This gives all the internal electronics and the compressor protector time to fully reset. Plug it back in, turn it on, and set your desired humidity level. Now, just listen. You should hear the fan, and after a minute or two, a distinct ‘click’ followed by a deeper hum—that’s the compressor engaging. Leave it be and see if it starts pulling water. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If after the reset there’s still no compressor hum, and the room is definitely humid/warm enough, the start capacitor for the compressor might have failed. This is a common wear part. You’ll need a technician to test and replace it; it’s a relatively inexpensive fix if you’re handy, but requires working with high-voltage components. HEADS UP Never plug the unit into a power strip or a heavily loaded outlet. It needs a dedicated wall outlet for the consistent, strong current the compressor requires to start up.

Question 7

my danby 50-pint unit is running but not collecting any water in the bucket, just blowing damp air.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This usually means the evaporator coils are frozen solid. When that happens, air can’t pass through properly to condense, so you just get cool, damp airflow. It’s common in cooler rooms. FIX 1) Turn the unit off and unplug it. 2) Move it to a warmer room if possible, or just let it sit off and thaw completely. This can take several hours—don’t rush it. 3) While it’s thawing, check and clean the air filter. It’s behind the front grille; just pull it out, rinse it under lukewarm water, let it dry fully, and put it back. A dirty filter restricts airflow and makes freezing more likely. 4) Once fully thawed, plug it back in and set it to a higher humidity target or ‘Continuous’ mode. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it freezes up again quickly in normal room temps (above 65°F), the refrigerant charge might be low or there could be a sensor issue. That’s a job for a certified appliance repair tech, as it involves sealed-system work. HEADS UP Try to avoid running it in an unheated basement or garage when temps consistently drop below 65°F. These are ‘warm room’ dehumidifiers and aren’t designed for cold spaces.

Question 8

my danby dehumidifier just shows a constant 'co' on the display and won't start, what is that?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That’s your unit telling you the condensate bucket is full and needs to be emptied. It’s a safety feature to prevent water overflow. FIX First, slide the bucket straight out from the front of the unit. Go ahead and empty it. Before you slide it back in, check two things: 1) Make sure the bucket is clicked all the way into its rails. 2) Look at the little plastic tab on the front-right side inside the bucket compartment—that’s the float switch. Push it down gently and let it pop back up to make sure it’s not stuck. Slide the bucket back in firmly until you hear it click home. The display should clear and the unit will start up on its own. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the 'CO' code stays on with an empty, properly seated bucket, that float switch might be stuck in the 'up' position. Unplug the unit. Look inside the empty compartment and find that small, usually white, float switch. Gently wiggle it up and down a few times to free it. Plug the unit back in and see if the code clears. HEADS UP Always handle the bucket with two hands and set it on a level surface when carrying it—the internal flap that keeps water from sloshing out isn’t perfect, and a tilt can cause a spill.

Danby DDR050BJPWDB 50-Pint Dehumidifier

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