Question 1

dewalt drill won't change from forward to reverse, the selector switch feels stuck or just spins.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The failure of the forward/reverse selector switch on the DeWalt DCD800B usually stems from one of two distinct issues: external contamination or internal mechanical shear. In high-dust environments—such as drywall installation or masonry drilling—fine particulate matter migrates through the housing gaps and settles into the sliding track of the selector. This creates a physical blockage that prevents the switch from locking into the forward or reverse detents, making the switch feel "gritty" or stuck in a neutral center position. If the switch spins freely without any resistance or fails to engage the motor, the root cause is likely a sheared plastic tab or a dislodged spring within the selector assembly. The DCD800B uses a sliding mechanism that must physically move a lever to reverse the polarity of the brushless motor controller. When this internal linkage snaps or slips out of its groove, the external slider moves independently of the internal switch, resulting in a tool that stays in one direction regardless of the switch position. You can confirm this by observing if the slider "clicks" into place; if there is no tactile snap, the internal detent spring is likely broken. FIX Follow these steps to clear debris and reset the mechanism. If the switch is physically broken, you will need to replace the selector assembly. Power Down: Remove the 20V Max battery pack immediately to prevent accidental trigger pulls during the cleaning process. External Debris Purge: Use a can of high-pressure compressed air or an air compressor with a nozzle. Direct the air stream specifically into the gaps around the base of the selector switch while rapidly sliding the switch back and forth. This breaks up compacted dust and pushes it out of the housing. Solvent Flush: If the switch is sticky due to oils or adhesives, apply a small amount of electronic-grade contact cleaner (such as QD Electronic Cleaner) around the switch. Avoid using WD-40, as it attracts more dust over time. Work the switch back and forth for 60 seconds to allow the solvent to penetrate the internal slider. Mechanical Reset: With the battery still removed, apply firm (but not excessive) pressure to the switch, pushing it fully to the left, then fully to the right. If you feel a "pop," the slider may have simply jumped its track and has now reseated. Testing: Reinsert the battery. Test the trigger in both directions. If the drill only runs in one direction despite the switch being moved, the internal linkage is sheared and requires a part replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the cleaning process fails to restore functionality, try these advanced recovery methods: Full Housing Disassembly: Remove the T10 Torx screws securing the outer casing of the DCD800B. Carefully split the clamshell to access the internal chassis. Inspect the selector slider for a broken plastic finger. If the finger is snapped, the entire selector assembly must be replaced. Spring Tension Check: Locate the small tension spring that holds the selector in the detent position. If the spring has popped out of its seat, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to carefully reposition it into the guide slot. Contact Cleaning: Use a fine-grit sanding stick or a cotton swab with isopropyl alcohol to clean the electrical contacts that the selector switch interacts with. Carbon buildup on these contacts can either block the signal or cause the tool to behave erratically. Replacement Part Installation: If the plastic internal components are cracked, order a replacement Forward/Reverse Switch assembly specific to the DCD800 series. Ensure the new switch is seated perfectly flush against the motor housing before closing the case to avoid binding. HEADS UP Avoid Lubricants: Never apply heavy grease or oil to the selector switch. This creates a "sludge" when mixed with job-site dust, which will permanently seize the mechanism. Impact Warning: Avoid resting the drill on its side on hard concrete surfaces; a side-impact can bend the selector slider, making it permanently stick in the neutral position. Trigger Safety: Always ensure the selector is fully engaged in either Forward or Reverse before pulling the trigger. Operating the tool in a "halfway" neutral position can cause electrical arcing within the brushless controller. Dust Management: Periodically blow out the tool housing with compressed air every 20-30 hours of heavy use to prevent particulate buildup in the switch and trigger assemblies.

Question 2

there's a high pitched whining noise coming from my drill when i pull the trigger lightly, goes away at full speed.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The high-pitched whining sound you are hearing in your DeWalt DCD800B is not a mechanical failure, but rather an electronic byproduct of the Brushless DC (BLDC) motor system. Unlike brushed motors that use physical carbon brushes to transfer current, the DCD800B utilizes an electronic controller to switch current to the motor windings. To achieve the variable speed control provided by the trigger, the tool uses a technique called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). PWM works by rapidly switching the power on and off thousands of times per second. When you pull the trigger lightly, the "off" periods are longer than the "on" periods. This rapid switching creates a high-frequency electromagnetic vibration in the motor windings and the internal circuitry, which manifests as an audible high-pitched whine or "singing" noise. As you pull the trigger further and approach full speed, the duty cycle increases until the power is nearly constant, which is why the noise disappears or blends into the general roar of the motor and gearbox at high RPMs. You can confirm this is the PWM signal if the pitch of the whine changes proportionally with the trigger pressure. If the noise is accompanied by a grinding sound, excessive vibration in the chassis, or a smell of ozone, that would indicate a bearing or gear failure; however, a clean, consistent electronic whine is a standard characteristic of the DCD800's power electronics. FIX Because this is a fundamental design characteristic of the brushless controller, there is no "repair" to remove the noise entirely. However, you can optimize the tool's operation to minimize the audible frequency and ensure the controller is performing efficiently: Optimize Gear Selection: Switch the gear selector on top of the drill to Position 1 (Low Speed/High Torque). Because the motor doesn't have to spin as fast to achieve movement in Gear 1, the PWM frequency is often shifted to a range that is less piercing to the human ear compared to Gear 2. Calibrate Trigger Pressure: Avoid "feathering" the trigger at the absolute minimum threshold for extended periods. Quickly transitioning through the low-voltage start-up phase to your desired working speed reduces the time the motor spends in the most audible PWM range. Verify Battery Contact: Ensure your 20V Max battery is fully seated and the terminals are clean. Low voltage or poor contact can sometimes cause the controller to struggle, potentially altering the pitch or intensity of the electronic whine. Load Application: Apply a small amount of pressure to the workpiece before pulling the trigger. When the motor has a slight load, the electronic load on the controller changes, often dampening the resonance of the motor windings. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the noise is accompanied by performance drops or sounds "mechanical" rather than electronic, try these alternatives: Check for Gearbox Contamination: If the whine is accompanied by a rhythmic clicking, a small amount of debris may have entered the planetary gear set. While the DCD800 is sealed, high-pressure air can be used to blow out the vents around the motor housing to clear any metallic dust that might be causing resonance. Test with a Different Battery Pack: Switch from a compact 2.0Ah battery to a high-capacity 5.0Ah or 6.0Ah battery. Higher amperage delivery can sometimes stabilize the voltage curve during the initial trigger pull, slightly altering the PWM noise profile. Inspect the Chuck for Obstructions: Ensure there is no debris inside the chuck jaws. A slightly off-center bit or a foreign object in the chuck can create a harmonic vibration that amplifies the electronic whine of the motor. Cycle the Gear Switch: Move the gear selector rapidly between 1 and 2 several times. If the whine changes drastically or disappears in one specific gear, it may indicate that the gear alignment is slightly off, though this is rare in the DCD800 series. HEADS UP Avoid Over-Torquing: While the DCD800 is powerful, consistently pushing the tool to its absolute torque limit in Gear 1 can overheat the controller, which may eventually lead to a more pronounced electronic hum or premature board failure. Battery Health: Always use genuine DeWalt 20V Max batteries. Third-party "knock-off" batteries often have inconsistent voltage regulation, which can cause the PWM whine to become erratic or significantly louder. Heat Dissipation: If the tool feels excessively hot to the touch near the trigger area, stop use immediately. Overheating the electronic controller can permanently warp the capacitors, leading to erratic speed control and increased noise.

Question 3

the battery meter on my dewalt drill only shows one bar then dies immediately, but the battery works in other tools.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The issue is not a failure of the battery cells, but a communication breakdown between the battery's Battery Management System (BMS) and the DCD800B's internal voltage sensing circuit. When the drill displays a single bar and immediately shuts down, it is triggering a "False Low Voltage Cutoff." This happens when the tool perceives a massive voltage drop the moment a load is applied, even if the battery is fully charged. This is typically caused by carbon buildup or oxidation on the secondary communication pins—the smaller terminals located between the main power rails. While the main power pins may be making enough contact to light up the LED, the data pins that tell the drill the actual state of charge are compromised. If the drill cannot "handshake" with the battery, it defaults to a safety shutdown to prevent deep-discharging the cells, which would permanently damage the lithium-ion chemistry. You can confirm this by checking if the battery works in a lower-draw tool (like a flashlight); if it does, the issue is specifically the high-current draw sensing in the DCD800B's terminal block. FIX To resolve the communication error and restore the accurate battery reading, follow these precision cleaning and seating steps: Remove the battery pack and use a can of compressed air to blow out the battery tray of the DCD800B, focusing on the deep recesses where the pins are located. Dip a precision cotton swab in 91% or higher Isopropyl Alcohol. Scrub the three small communication pins located in the center of the drill's battery terminal block. Apply firm pressure to break through the invisible layer of oxidation. Clean the corresponding small contact pads on the top of the 20V Max battery pack. Ensure there is no sticky residue or sawdust embedded in the metal. Inspect the battery rails for "play." If the battery feels loose, use a small needle to ensure no debris is preventing the battery from seating fully flush against the tool. Insert the battery and slide the locking collar firmly. Trigger the drill at the lowest speed setting first to allow the BMS to stabilize the voltage reading before switching to high torque. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Battery Terminal Springs: Check if the spring-loaded contacts inside the DCD800B tray have lost their tension. If a pin is recessed further than the others (by more than 1-2mm), it won't make a solid connection. Use a non-conductive pick to gently nudge the pin back toward the battery interface. Test with a Different Battery Chemistry: If you are using a FlexVolt battery in the 20V tool, the communication protocol is different. Try a standard 20V Max (non-FlexVolt) pack. If the standard pack works, the issue is the FlexVolt-to-20V adapter circuit within the drill. Perform a Hard Reset: Remove the battery and hold the trigger depressed for 30 seconds. This drains the remaining capacitance in the tool's internal circuitry and resets the voltage sensor. Reinsert the battery and test. Check for Terminal Arcing: Look for small black "pit" marks on the copper terminals. If arcing has occurred due to a loose fit, the carbonized metal acts as an insulator. You will need to lightly scrape the oxidation off the battery terminals using a piece of fine-grit sandpaper (400 grit or higher) or a fiberglass scratch brush. HEADS UP Avoid using WD-40 or any oil-based lubricants on the battery contacts, as these attract sawdust and create a conductive sludge that can cause a short circuit. Always store your DCD800B in a dry environment; high humidity leads to rapid oxidation of the communication pins, causing the "one bar" ghosting issue. If you notice the battery is physically bulging or the casing is warped, stop using it immediately regardless of whether it works in other tools, as this indicates a failing cell that can trip the drill's safety sensors. Regularly blow out the battery tray with air every 10-15 uses to prevent the buildup of fine construction dust which disrupts the low-voltage data signal.

Question 4

how do i clean out the vent slots on my dewalt brushless drill, it's full of sawdust.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Sawdust accumulation in the vent slots of the DeWalt DCD800B is a common byproduct of drilling into pine, MDF, or drywall. Because the brushless motor utilizes an internal cooling fan to pull air across the electronic controller and motor windings, these vents are the primary intake and exhaust points. When sawdust packs into these slots, it creates a physical barrier that traps heat inside the housing. If the vents are clogged, you will notice the drill feeling abnormally hot to the touch near the rear handle, and you may experience a sudden loss of power or a complete shutdown during heavy-duty driving. This is the integrated thermal protection circuit triggering to prevent the brushless motor from burning out. You can confirm the clog by inspecting the narrow slits on the motor housing; if you see a "cake" of compressed dust preventing you from seeing the internal components, the airflow is compromised. FIX To thoroughly clean the vents without damaging the internal electronics or the brushless motor, follow these precise steps: Remove the 20V Max battery pack immediately. Never perform cleaning while the battery is engaged, as air nozzles can accidentally trigger the trigger switch or cause static discharge. Use a soft-bristled nylon brush or a clean paintbrush to break the surface tension of the packed sawdust. Gently scrub the vent slots, brushing from the center outward to loosen the debris. Utilize a canister of compressed air (duster) or a shop compressor set to no more than 30 PSI. Hold the nozzle approximately 2 inches away from the vent. Blow air in short, rapid bursts. Start at the rear vents and move toward the front of the tool. This pushes the dust in the direction of the natural airflow, preventing it from becoming further embedded in the motor windings. Rotate the drill chuck by hand while blowing air into the vents. This shifts the internal fan blades, allowing air to reach "dead zones" where dust often settles behind the motor housing. Use a vacuum with a narrow crevice tool to suck out the loosened particles from the exterior slots to ensure no residue remains to be sucked back in during the next use. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Deep Vacuuming: If the dust has turned into a "paste" due to humidity or resin, air alone won't work. Use a high-powered vacuum with a brush attachment and hold it firmly against the vents for 30 seconds per slot to pull the debris out through suction. Isopropyl Alcohol Detail: For sticky resin buildup (common when drilling treated lumber), dip a cotton swab in 90% isopropyl alcohol. Gently wipe the edges of the vent slots. Do not saturate the swab; you want to dissolve the resin without dripping liquid into the brushless controller. Housing Disassembly: If the drill is still overheating, the dust has likely bypassed the vents and coated the motor. Remove the screws securing the plastic clamshell housing. Carefully separate the two halves, using a vacuum to clear the internal cavity. Avoid touching the gold-plated contact points on the PCB. Contact Cleaner: If you suspect dust has entered the trigger mechanism, spray a small amount of non-conductive electronic contact cleaner into the trigger assembly to clear out grit that may be impeding the switch. HEADS UP Avoid Liquid Cleaners: Never use water or soap to clean the vents. The DCD800B is not waterproof, and moisture entering the brushless controller will cause a permanent short circuit. Pressure Warning: Do not use high-pressure industrial air (over 100 PSI) directly into the vents, as this can actually push sawdust deeper into the motor bearings or damage the delicate fan blades. Preventative Maintenance: After every major project involving sawdust, spend 30 seconds blowing out the vents. This prevents "caking" and extends the lifespan of the motor. Battery Check: If the drill continues to overheat after cleaning, check your battery terminals for dust. A poor connection can cause the battery to heat up, mimicking a motor overheating issue.

Question 5

my drill seems weak, bogs down really easy in wood that my old drill handled fine, battery is full.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The loss of power in your DeWalt DCD800B is typically caused by the tool operating in the wrong gear ratio or a failure in the electronic torque management system. The DCD800B features a two-speed brushless transmission; Gear 2 is designed for high-speed drilling into soft materials or driving small screws, but it lacks the mechanical advantage (torque) needed for boring large holes in hardwoods. If the gear selector is set to "2," the motor spins faster, but the drill will stall or "bog down" the moment it encounters significant resistance. Another possibility is that the gear selector switch is stuck in a "half-way" position. Because the DCD800B uses a sliding toggle, it is common for sawdust or debris to lodge in the switch housing, preventing the internal gear from fully engaging. When the gear isn't fully seated, the motor may spin, but the power isn't efficiently transferred to the chuck, resulting in a perceived loss of strength. You can confirm this by attempting to drive a large 3-inch lag screw; if the drill stops immediately despite the battery being fully charged, you are either in the wrong gear or experiencing a mechanical slip. FIX To restore full boring power and torque, follow these precise steps to ensure the transmission is correctly engaged: Remove the battery from the base of the drill to ensure the tool is completely powered down before adjusting mechanical components. Locate the gear selector switch on the top of the drill housing, directly behind the chuck. Firmly slide the switch to position "1". You should feel a distinct, tactile "click." If the switch feels spongy or doesn't click, use a can of compressed air to blow out the crevices around the toggle to remove any sawdust or metal shavings. Reinsert the 20V Max battery. Set the torque clutch (the numbered ring behind the chuck) to the "Drill" icon (the bit symbol). If the clutch is set to a low number (e.g., 5 or 10), the drill will stop spinning as soon as it hits a specific resistance level, which mimics the feeling of the motor bogging down. Apply steady, firm pressure while pulling the trigger. In Gear 1, the RPMs will be lower, but the torque will be significantly higher, allowing you to penetrate dense wood without stalling. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for "Battery Sag" or Voltage Drop. Even if the battery shows a full charge on the LED indicator, an older or damaged cell can cause a voltage drop under heavy load. Swap the current battery for a high-capacity 5.0Ah or 6.0Ah battery. If the drill suddenly regains its strength, the original battery has internal resistance issues and needs replacement. Inspect the Chuck for Slippage. If you are using a non-hexagonal bit or a worn-out driver bit, the chuck may be slipping internally. Ensure the bit is centered and tightened fully. If the bit is spinning inside the chuck while the motor is still humming, the issue is grip, not motor power. Verify Bit Compatibility. Ensure you are using a "Brad Point" or "Forstner" bit for wood. Using a standard metal twist bit in hardwood creates excessive friction and heat, which can trigger the DCD800B's internal thermal protection, causing the brushless controller to limit power to prevent the motor from burning out. Reset the Electronic Controller. Remove the battery and hold the trigger down for 30 seconds to discharge any residual capacitance in the brushless controller. Reinsert the battery and test again. This can occasionally clear "ghost" errors in the electronic speed control. HEADS UP Avoid "feathering" the trigger when boring large holes; a consistent, full-pressure pull prevents the controller from fluctuating the torque output. Never switch gears while the drill is spinning; this will strip the internal planetary gears and permanently damage the transmission. Keep the air vents on the motor housing clear of debris. Brushless motors rely on efficient airflow to maintain peak torque; if the vents are clogged, the tool will throttle power to prevent overheating. Periodically check the battery terminals for carbon buildup or debris, as a poor connection can limit the current flow to the motor during high-load tasks.

Question 6

the light on my dcd800 stays on all the time even after i let go of the trigger, drains the battery.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The issue with the DeWalt DCD800B LED remaining illuminated is typically caused by a failure in the trigger switch assembly or a "sticky" electronic state in the motor controller. In the 20V Max Brushless line, the LED is not a simple parallel circuit; it is managed by the tool's logic board. When you pull the trigger, the board sends power to the motor and the light; upon release, the board is programmed to hold the light for a few seconds before cutting power. If the light stays on indefinitely, it indicates that the control board still perceives a "closed" signal from the trigger switch. This is often caused by microscopic debris, such as drywall dust or metal shavings, infiltrating the trigger housing and physically preventing the switch from returning to its neutral position. Alternatively, it can be an electrical failure where the internal MOSFET or a capacitor on the control board has failed, creating a "leak" that keeps the LED circuit energized. You can confirm this by checking if the drill attempts to spin when you insert the battery; if the light is on but the motor is silent, the failure is isolated to the LED logic path of the trigger switch. FIX Since this is usually a mechanical obstruction or a switch glitch, follow these steps to attempt a recovery before replacing parts: Remove the 20V Max battery immediately to prevent the cells from deep-discharging, which can permanently damage the battery pack. Use a can of compressed air or a high-pressure air nozzle. Insert the nozzle into the gap between the trigger and the plastic housing. Blast air repeatedly around the trigger pivot point and the rear of the switch assembly to clear any conductive dust or debris. Perform a "Trigger Reset": With the battery removed, rapidly pull and release the trigger 20 to 30 times. This helps break any oxidation on the internal contacts or physically dislodges a stuck spring mechanism. Inspect the trigger's physical travel. Press the trigger and ensure it snaps back instantly. If there is any "mushiness" or lag in the return, use a small amount of electronic-grade contact cleaner (such as DeoxIT) sprayed directly into the trigger gap. Re-insert the battery. If the light stays on for the standard 5-10 seconds and then shuts off, the issue is resolved. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Trigger Switch Assembly: If the air and contact cleaner failed, the internal switch has likely suffered a mechanical failure. You will need to disassemble the DCD800B housing by removing the Torx screws. Locate the trigger assembly (Part # varies by region, but look for the trigger switch module). Unplug the wiring harness from the main PCB and install a new OEM trigger switch. Check for Housing Warp: In some cases, if the tool has been dropped, the plastic casing can pinch the trigger. Loosen the housing screws by a quarter-turn and see if the trigger regains full movement. If the light turns off, the housing was too tight, causing a constant "on" signal. Test with a Different Battery: While rare, a faulty battery communication pin can occasionally confuse the tool's logic board. Try a known-good 20V Max battery to ensure the "ghost" power isn't coming from a malfunctioning battery BMS (Battery Management System). PCB Inspection: Open the tool and inspect the main circuit board for "burnt" spots or leaking capacitors. If you see a scorched area near the LED output trace, the board has shorted and the entire electronic module must be replaced. HEADS UP Avoid using WD-40 or standard lubricants inside the trigger assembly; these attract dust and will eventually cause the switch to seize completely. Never leave the battery in the tool if the light is stuck on; a fully drained Li-ion battery can fall below the voltage threshold, rendering the battery pack unusable. Keep the tool away from magnetic debris (like steel wool or metal filings), as the DCD800B's vents allow particles to enter the trigger area easily. When replacing the trigger switch, ensure the wiring harness is seated fully and the locking clip clicks into place to avoid intermittent power loss during high-torque applications.

Question 7

dewalt 20v drill chuck keeps loosening on its own while i'm drilling, almost dropped the bit.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The DCD800B features a high-torque brushless motor that generates significant rotational force. When the chuck loosens during operation, it is typically caused by a failure in the internal locking mechanism of the ratcheting sleeve. In most cases, fine sawdust, drywall dust, or metal shavings have migrated into the internal spring-loaded pawls of the chuck. This debris prevents the sleeve from fully seating into the locking notch, meaning the chuck is held by friction rather than a mechanical lock. Another common cause is "bit slippage" resulting from a mismatch between the bit shank and the jaw geometry. If you are using a bit with a slightly undersized shank or a worn-down flat, the rotational torque of the brushless motor will cause the bit to spin inside the jaws. This centrifugal force creates a vibration that gradually backs the chuck sleeve off, leading to the bit falling out. You can confirm this by tightening the chuck and attempting to rotate the sleeve backward by hand; if it moves with minimal resistance, the locking pawls are not engaging. FIX To resolve this and ensure a secure grip, follow these precise steps to deep-clean and reset the chuck mechanism: Remove the battery pack from the DCD800B to ensure safety during the cleaning process. Open the chuck jaws to their maximum extension. Use a can of compressed air (or an air compressor with a precision nozzle) to blow air directly into the gaps between the three jaws. Focus specifically on the area where the jaws meet the main body of the drill. Apply a small amount of dry PTFE lubricant or a high-quality electronics cleaner (like CRC) to the outer sleeve. Rotate the sleeve forward and backward 10-15 times rapidly to work the lubricant into the internal ratcheting teeth. Insert your drill bit, ensuring it is seated deeply and centered. Tighten the chuck using the "Two-Hand Method": Grip the drill body firmly with your non-dominant hand and use your dominant hand to rotate the sleeve. Once it stops turning, apply a final, aggressive clockwise "snap" to the sleeve. You should feel a distinct click; this is the internal pawl locking into place. Test the grip by attempting to rotate the bit by hand before pulling the trigger. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Drill Bit: If the issue only occurs with specific bits, the shank is likely worn or improperly machined. Switch to a high-grade cobalt or titanium bit with a standard 1/4" hex or round shank to see if the grip improves. Check for Jaw Deformation: Inspect the three jaws for any nicks or flattened edges. If one jaw is bent or worn, it will create an uneven grip, causing the bit to wobble and the chuck to loosen. If the jaws are deformed, the entire chuck assembly must be replaced as they are not individually serviceable. Inspect for Over-Tightening Damage: If the drill was previously used with a chuck key or excessive force, the internal threads may be stripped. If you can rotate the sleeve indefinitely without it ever "bottoming out" or locking, the internal threading is compromised. Professional Chuck Replacement: If debris removal fails, the internal spring in the ratcheting mechanism may have snapped. In this case, the chuck assembly needs to be swapped out for a new OEM DeWalt replacement part. HEADS UP Avoid using penetrating oils (like WD-40) inside the chuck, as they attract dust and sawdust, which will create a grinding paste that accelerates wear on the ratcheting mechanism. Always ensure the bit is pushed fully to the back of the chuck; if the bit is hanging too far out, the jaws cannot grip the thickest part of the shank, increasing the likelihood of slippage. When drilling into high-density materials like stainless steel, use a slower RPM to reduce the vibration that can either loosen the chuck or strip the bit. Periodically blow out the chuck with compressed air every 20-30 hours of use to prevent debris buildup from compromising the lock.

Question 8

my dewalt dcd800b drill just clicks when i pull the trigger, battery is charged but nothing spins.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The rhythmic clicking sound you hear when pulling the trigger on the DCD800B is the electronic relay or the MOSFETs in the brushless controller attempting to engage the motor, but failing to sustain a current loop. Because this is a brushless model, it does not have traditional carbon brushes that wear out; instead, it relies on a sophisticated electronic control board that manages the permanent magnet motor. When you hear a click without rotation, the tool is receiving a "start" signal, but the circuit is being interrupted immediately, often triggering a safety shutdown to prevent a short circuit. This is most frequently caused by a high-resistance connection at the battery interface or a "soft-lock" in the electronic controller. If the battery pins are not making a perfect 360-degree contact with the tool's terminals, the voltage may be high enough to trigger the switch (the click), but as soon as the motor demands high amperage to spin the chuck, the voltage drops instantly, breaking the connection. This can also happen if the drill has been exposed to heavy dust or metallic shavings that have migrated into the battery rail, creating a micro-gap between the terminals. FIX To resolve this connectivity failure and reset the electronic controller, follow these precise steps: Remove the 20V Max battery pack entirely from the base of the DCD800B. Inspect the three copper-plated terminals inside the drill's battery port. Look for any "pitting" (small black burnt spots) or debris. If you see debris, use a can of compressed air to blow out the port from the top down. Examine the battery terminals for any slight bending. The pins should be perfectly parallel; if one is pushed inward, it will not maintain the amperage needed for the brushless motor to kick over. Take a clean, dry microfiber cloth and wipe the gold-plated contacts on the battery pack. If there is visible oxidation (a dull grey film), use a pencil eraser to gently scrub the contacts until they are shiny again. Perform a "Hard Reset" of the controller: With the battery removed, pull the trigger and hold it for 5 full seconds. This drains any residual capacitance in the brushless control board. Slide the battery back into the tool, ensuring you press down firmly until you hear a distinct, metallic "click" from the locking tabs. Give the battery a firm shake to ensure it is seated deep in the rail. Test the trigger in "Speed 1" (low gear) first to see if the motor engages with lower torque. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Cross-Test with a Different Battery: The DCD800B is sensitive to voltage drops. If you are using an older 2.0Ah battery, try a high-capacity 5.0Ah or 6.0Ah battery. A failing cell in a smaller battery can provide enough voltage to "click" the switch but fail under the initial load of the brushless motor. Check the Forward/Reverse Toggle: Ensure the direction selector is pushed fully into one of the two positions. If the toggle is resting in the center "neutral" position, the trigger will often click or feel dead because the circuit is physically broken to prevent the tool from spinning. Inspect for Internal Gear Jam: If the click is accompanied by a very slight movement of the chuck, a piece of debris may be jammed in the planetary gear set. Try rotating the chuck by hand (with the battery removed) to ensure it spins freely. If it feels "notchy," there may be a mechanical failure in the gearbox. Check for Trigger Switch Contamination: If you have been drilling through drywall or masonry, fine dust can enter the housing and coat the trigger potentiometers. Use compressed air to blow directly into the gaps around the trigger switch to clear any insulating dust. HEADS UP Avoid Liquid Cleaners: Never use WD-40 or rubbing alcohol on the battery terminals; these can leave a residue that attracts dust or cause premature corrosion on the gold plating. Battery Seating: Always ensure the battery is fully clicked in. A "loose" battery causes arcing, which creates carbon scoring on the terminals and will eventually lead to a permanent failure of the tool's power rail. Thermal Shutdown: If the tool was used heavily right before the clicking started, the DCD800B's thermal protection may be active. Let the tool cool for 20 minutes before attempting to restart. Storage Tip: Store your batteries in a cool, dry place. Extreme cold can cause the battery's internal resistance to spike, leading to the "click-no-spin" symptom even if the battery indicator shows full charge.

DeWalt 20V Max Brushless Drill DCD800B

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