Question 1

can't get the sanding pad to stop wiggling, it's not the sheet, the pad itself is loose on the tool.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The instability you are feeling in the DCS354B sanding pad is almost always caused by a failure in the mechanical interface between the tool's oscillation spindle and the sanding pad adapter. Because this model uses a bolt-on system rather than a tool-less lever, any microscopic gap between the adapter's mounting surface and the tool's drive head is magnified into a noticeable "wiggle" or vibration during operation. This typically happens when debris—such as sawdust or dried adhesive—gets trapped in the mounting recess, preventing the adapter from seating completely flush. Another common cause is the stretching or degradation of the bolt hole in the plastic adapter. If the bolt has been loosened and tightened repeatedly, or if it was over-torqued at some point, the plastic housing of the pad can develop a slight ovalization. This allows the adapter to shift laterally even when the bolt feels tight. You can confirm this by removing the pad and checking for a "play" or "slop" in the fit when the bolt is hand-tightened; if the adapter can be tilted manually before the bolt is fully seated, the adapter is warped or worn. FIX To eliminate the wobble and restore a rigid connection, follow this precise re-seating sequence: Power down the tool and remove the 20V battery to ensure safety. Use a hex key to completely remove the mounting bolt securing the sanding pad adapter to the tool head. Remove the sanding pad and use a compressed air canister or a stiff nylon brush to thoroughly clean the tool's drive spindle and the internal recessed cavity of the pad adapter. Pay close attention to the center pin and the surrounding flat surfaces. Inspect the mounting bolt for any stripped threads or debris on the shoulder of the bolt. Align the sanding pad adapter so that the center drive hole is perfectly concentric with the tool's oscillation pin. Press the adapter firmly against the tool head with your thumb to ensure there is zero gap between the metal and plastic surfaces. Insert the bolt and tighten it in a clockwise direction. Use a hex key to apply firm pressure, but avoid using a power driver, as this can crack the plastic adapter. Tighten until the adapter cannot be rotated by hand, then give it one final quarter-turn to lock it in place. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Sanding Pad Assembly: If the wobble persists after cleaning and tightening, the plastic adapter has likely warped or the drive hole has worn down. Replace the entire assembly using DeWalt part number DWA4210. Ensure you are using a genuine OEM part, as third-party pads often have tolerances that are off by a fraction of a millimeter, which causes immediate vibration. Inspect the Oscillation Spindle: Check the tool's drive pin for any signs of bending or flat spots. If the tool was dropped while a blade was installed, the spindle may be slightly out of alignment. If the pin itself is not perfectly centered, no amount of tightening will stop the wiggle. Check the Bolt Shoulder: Examine the bolt for any burrs or mushrooming on the head. If the bolt head is not sitting perfectly flat against the adapter, it will create a pivot point that allows the pad to rock. Replace the bolt if it shows signs of physical deformation. HEADS UP Avoid Over-Tightening: The sanding pad adapter is made of reinforced plastic. Using excessive torque can strip the internal threads or crack the housing, which will permanently introduce a wobble into the tool. Heat Management: High-friction sanding can generate significant heat. If the pad becomes excessively hot, the plastic can soften and warp. Take short breaks when sanding hard surfaces like hardwood or metal. Regular Inspection: Check the tightness of the sanding pad bolt every 5-10 uses. The high-frequency vibration of the DCS354B can naturally loosen the bolt over time. Paper Alignment: Always ensure your sanding sheets are centered perfectly on the hook-and-loop surface. An off-center sheet creates an unbalanced load that puts uneven lateral pressure on the adapter, accelerating wear.

Question 2

makes a high pitched whining noise even at low speed, sounds like it's coming from the back by the battery.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The high-pitched whining noise emanating from the rear of the DeWalt DCS354B is almost certainly "coil whine" or electronic resonance originating from the Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) circuitry on the motor control board. This occurs when the MOSFETs (Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistors) switch the current on and off thousands of times per second to regulate the tool's speed. This rapid switching creates a magnetic field that causes electronic components—specifically the inductors and capacitors—to vibrate at a frequency audible to the human ear. Because this noise is most prominent at low speeds, it confirms that the PWM controller is operating at a lower duty cycle, which often shifts the frequency into a range that is more perceptible. To confirm this is electronic and not mechanical, run the tool without a blade attached. If the whine persists and remains consistent regardless of the load, the issue is electrical. If the noise changes pitch significantly as you apply pressure to the tool's head, you may be dealing with a bearing failure in the motor housing, though the "back of the tool" location strongly suggests the control board. FIX Since this is an electronic phenomenon, you cannot "tighten" a screw to fix it, but you can stabilize the power delivery to minimize the resonance. Follow these steps to isolate and potentially mitigate the noise: Remove the battery and inspect the terminals for any carbon buildup or debris. Use a can of compressed air to blow out the battery port to ensure a clean, low-resistance connection. Swap the current battery for a high-capacity DeWalt 20V Max XR (Extended Runtime) pack, preferably 5.0Ah or higher. Batteries with higher discharge ratings and lower internal resistance provide a more stable voltage curve, which can reduce the "stress" on the PWM controller and lower the audible whine. Perform a "load test" by applying a medium-density sanding disc to the tool. Engage the tool at a low speed and gradually increase to full throttle. If the noise disappears at high speeds, the tool is operating within normal electronic parameters. Check the battery seating. Ensure the battery is snapped firmly into the rails; a loose connection can cause voltage fluctuations that increase the audible frequency of the controller. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect for Heat Soak: If the whine has suddenly become louder than it was when the tool was new, the capacitors on the control board may be degrading due to overheating. Allow the tool to cool completely for 30 minutes and restart. If the noise is quieter when cold and louder when hot, the board is failing. Check for Electrical Interference: Test the tool in a different environment. If you are using the tool near high-voltage equipment or large magnets, the electromagnetic interference (EMI) can exacerbate the resonance in the tool's internal circuitry. Internal Debris Removal: Use a high-pressure air compressor to blow through the rear vents near the motor. While the noise is electronic, a buildup of fine drywall or sawdust inside the housing can act as an acoustic amplifier, echoing the electronic whine through the plastic casing. Component Replacement: Because the DCS354B uses a sealed electronic module, there are no adjustable potentiometers to change the PWM frequency. If the noise is disruptive and the tool is under warranty, the entire motor and control assembly must be replaced as a single unit. HEADS UP Scent Detection: If the high-pitched whine is accompanied by a "sweet" or acrid ozone smell, this indicates a leaking capacitor or a scorched MOSFET. Stop using the tool immediately to avoid a total electrical short. Voltage Warning: Never attempt to open the rear housing to "clean" the circuit board with solvents. The capacitors can hold a charge even with the battery removed, and any residue left behind can cause a short circuit upon power-up. Battery Health: Avoid using older, degraded batteries with the DCS354B. Low-voltage cells force the controller to work harder to maintain torque, which increases the electronic noise and accelerates wear on the control board. Duty Cycle: To prevent the electronics from overheating and increasing the whine, avoid running the tool at the absolute minimum trigger pull for extended periods; this is where the PWM controller is under the most stress.

Question 3

the tool randomly shuts off for a second then comes back on, especially when i'm putting pressure on it.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The intermittent power cycling on the DeWalt DCS354B is typically caused by "contact bounce" within the battery rail system. Because this is an oscillating tool, it generates high-frequency vibrations (up to 20,000 OPM) that can cause a slightly loose battery to micro-shift within the housing. When you apply downward pressure during a cut, you are subtly altering the angle of the tool, which can pull the battery terminals just a fraction of a millimeter away from the internal contact plates, breaking the electrical circuit for a millisecond. This is often exacerbated by the accumulation of fine sawdust or metallic debris inside the battery slot, which acts as a shim, preventing the battery from seating fully. To confirm this is the issue, grip the battery firmly with your hand and apply pressure toward the tool's motor housing while running the tool; if the cutting out stops while you are manually holding the battery in place, the fault is definitely a mechanical connection failure between the pack and the tool. FIX To resolve the connection instability and restore a solid electrical path, follow these precise steps: Remove the battery pack and use a can of compressed air to blow out the battery terminal cavity. Focus on the deep recesses where the brass pins are located to remove any trapped sawdust or gypsum dust. Dampen a cotton swab with 91% or higher Isopropyl Alcohol. Scrub the three flat brass contact plates inside the tool's battery port. You will likely see a dark layer of carbon buildup or oxidation; continue scrubbing until the brass appears bright and reflective. Clean the corresponding terminals on the battery pack using the same method. Ensure there is no sticky residue or oil on the contacts, as this creates a high-resistance layer that can trigger the tool's internal protection circuit to trip. Inspect the battery release buttons on both sides of the tool. Press them and ensure they snap back instantly. If a button is sticking, the battery may not be locking into the "final click" position, leaving a gap that allows the battery to vibrate loose. Insert the battery and give it a firm push until you hear a distinct double-click. Give the battery a physical shake; if there is any lateral movement, the locking lugs are worn or contaminated. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Test the tool with a different 20V Max battery, preferably a higher-capacity 5.0Ah or 6.0Ah pack. Larger batteries have slightly different weight distributions and terminal tolerances; if a larger pack solves the problem, the issue is likely worn-out locking tabs on your original battery pack rather than the tool itself. Check for a loose trigger switch assembly. If the tool is cutting out specifically when you squeeze the trigger harder or tilt the tool, the internal wiring to the switch may have frayed or loosened due to the constant oscillation. This requires opening the housing to reseat the wire connectors. Inspect the brush assembly if you are using an older model of the DCS354B. While most are brushless, any carbon brush wear can cause intermittent sparking and power loss under load, which mimics a battery connection issue. Verify that the accessory blade is tightened fully. A loose blade can cause an unbalanced vibration that is violent enough to shake the battery out of contact. Use the provided hex key to ensure the blade is clamped tight against the washer. HEADS UP Avoid using "universal" or third-party aftermarket batteries with this tool. These often have slightly off-spec terminal dimensions that lead to the exact intermittent power loss described here. Never use conductive lubricants or WD-40 on the battery terminals, as this attracts dust and creates an insulating paste that will worsen the connection. Be cautious when the tool cuts out mid-cut; the sudden loss of power combined with the oscillation can cause the tool to "jump" or kick, potentially leading to a laceration. Periodically check the battery rails for plastic wear. If the plastic guide rails are shaved down, the battery will wobble, and you may need to apply a small piece of electrical tape to the rail to tighten the fit.

Question 4

how do i clean all the sawdust out of the head where the blade goes? it's jammed in there.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The DeWalt DCS354B utilizes a tool-less lever system that relies on precise tolerances to lock the blade in place. When fine sawdust—particularly from pressure-treated lumber or MDF—mixes with the lubricant on the drive shaft or moisture in the air, it forms a compacted "plug" inside the blade mounting collar. This debris occupies the critical clearance gap between the blade shank and the internal drive mechanism. This jam usually manifests as a blade that won't sit flush against the shoulder or a locking lever that feels "springy" and fails to click into the locked position. If you attempt to force the blade in while this debris is present, you risk scoring the drive shaft or warping the locking cam. You can confirm the blockage by removing the blade and looking directly into the mounting hole with a flashlight; if you see a packed, grayish-brown ring of material instead of the metallic drive teeth, the head is jammed. FIX To properly clear the head of the DCS354B without damaging the locking mechanism, follow these steps: Ensure the tool is completely powered down and the battery pack is removed to prevent accidental activation during cleaning. Open the tool-less locking lever fully to the open position. If the lever is stuck, do not force it; gently wiggle the blade (if one is installed) while applying light pressure to the lever. Remove the blade and any remaining accessory washers. Use a stiff-bristled nylon parts brush or a high-density toothbrush to scrub the perimeter of the mounting collar. Brush in a circular motion, pushing the dust outward and away from the center of the shaft. For the compacted "ring" of dust inside the bore, use a plastic scribe or a wooden toothpick. Carefully scrape the debris away from the walls of the mounting hole. Avoid using steel screwdrivers or metal picks, as scratching the interior of the collar can create burrs that make future blade changes difficult. Once the bulk of the debris is loosened, use a vacuum cleaner with a narrow crevice tool or a brush attachment held directly against the opening to suck the particles out. Wipe the drive shaft clean with a lint-free microfiber cloth to ensure no grit remains on the rotating surface. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Resin Dissolution: If the sawdust has hardened into a resinous glue (common when cutting pine or cedar), apply 2-3 drops of 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to a cotton swab. Rub the swab around the internal edges of the mount. Let it sit for 60 seconds to break down the resins, then repeat the scrubbing process with the nylon brush. Mechanical Agitation: Insert a blade that is slightly smaller than the standard 12.7mm (1/2") shank if available, or use a thin plastic shim. Gently rotate the shim in a circular motion to break the seal of the compacted dust, then vacuum the debris out. Low-Pressure Air (External Only): If a vacuum fails, use a can of compressed air, but do not spray directly into the hole. Instead, spray at a 45-degree angle across the opening to "blow" the dust out of the cavity rather than pushing it deeper into the tool housing. Deep Cleaning: If the jam is caused by metal shavings from cutting nails or screws, use a small neodymium magnet attached to the end of a thin plastic probe to extract the metallic fragments from the depths of the mounting head. HEADS UP Avoid Lubricants: Never apply WD-40, grease, or oil to the blade mount. Lubricants act as a magnet for sawdust, creating a thick, abrasive paste that will wear down the locking cam and cause the tool to jam more frequently. Air Compression Warning: Never use a high-pressure shop compressor to blow out the head. High-pressure air can force fine particulates past the internal seals and directly into the motor bearings and the trigger switch assembly, leading to premature motor failure. Blade Seating: Always verify that the blade is seated perfectly flush against the drive shoulder before locking the lever. A gap of even 1mm can cause excessive vibration, which accelerates the wear on the internal drive components. Routine Maintenance: Develop a habit of brushing out the head every 3-4 blade changes. This prevents the gradual buildup of debris that leads to the "jammed" state.

Question 5

dewalt oscillating tool only works on the highest speed, won't change speeds when i press the button.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The DeWalt DCS354B utilizes an electronic variable speed control module that regulates the voltage sent to the brushless motor. When the tool remains locked at maximum RPM regardless of the speed button input, it indicates a failure in the pulse-width modulation (PWM) circuit or a mechanical failure of the speed-selection tactile switch. Essentially, the control board is defaulting to a "full-on" state, bypassing the variable resistors or logic gates that normally throttle the motor speed. This issue is typically caused by one of two things: conductive debris (metal shavings or sawdust) infiltrating the switch housing and creating a bridge across the high-speed contact, or a failed capacitor/transistor on the internal PCB that has shorted out. You can confirm this by observing the tool's behavior upon startup; if the tool jumps immediately to peak vibration without a ramp-up period, the control logic is completely bypassed. FIX Since the DCS354B features a sealed housing, you should first attempt a non-invasive chemical cleaning of the speed selector before attempting a hardware replacement. Remove the 20V Max battery pack immediately to kill all power to the circuit. Locate the speed adjustment button on the top of the tool housing. Using a can of high-grade electronic contact cleaner (such as CRC QD Contact Cleaner), insert the straw directly into the seam between the button and the plastic housing. Apply 3-5 short bursts of cleaner into the switch assembly. While the solvent is still wet, rapidly press the speed button 20-30 times. This mechanical action helps break up carbon buildup or dislodge metallic particulates that may be bridging the contacts. Allow the tool to sit for at least 15 minutes to ensure the solvent has completely evaporated from the PCB. Reinsert the battery and test the speed transitions from low to high. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If cleaning the exterior of the switch fails, the problem is internal and requires a deeper intervention. Replace the Trigger/Switch Assembly: The most common hardware failure is the integrated switch module. You will need to disassemble the outer casing using a T10 Torx driver. Locate the switch assembly (Part # dependent on production date, usually integrated into the trigger housing) and replace the entire unit. Ensure the wiring harness is seated firmly in the control board to avoid intermittent speed fluctuations. Inspect for Wire Chafing: Open the housing and inspect the wires leading from the speed button to the main PCB. Because the DCS354B vibrates intensely, wires can rub against the plastic interior, causing the insulation to wear through. If a signal wire is shorting against the metal frame, it can trick the tool into staying at max speed. Use heat-shrink tubing to insulate any exposed copper. Check for PCB Corrosion: If the tool has been used in damp environments, look for "green crust" or oxidation on the control board. Use a soft toothbrush and 90% isopropyl alcohol to gently clean the solder joints around the speed control capacitors. Battery Voltage Verification: In rare cases, a failing battery cell can cause erratic behavior in the electronic speed controller. Test the tool with a different, fully charged 20V Max battery to rule out a voltage drop that is confusing the PWM controller. HEADS UP Vibration Management: Always ensure the accessory blade is tightened fully with the OXI-lock nut; excessive play in the blade can cause harmonic vibrations that prematurely wear out the electronic switch components. Dust Prevention: The DCS354B is not airtight. Avoid using compressed air to "blow out" the tool, as this often pushes fine drywall or masonry dust deeper into the switch assembly, where it can cause the exact speed-lock issue described here. Thermal Shutdown: If the tool is running at max speed and suddenly cuts out, do not immediately restart it. The brushless controller has a thermal overload protection circuit; allow it to cool for 5 minutes to prevent permanent PCB damage. Warranty Warning: Breaking the factory seals on the housing to access the PCB will void your DeWalt manufacturer warranty. If the tool is under 3 years old, consider a professional service center.

Question 6

my multi-tool vibrates way more than it used to, it's shaking my whole hand now.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Excessive vibration in the DeWalt DCS354B is almost always caused by a disruption in the rotational equilibrium of the oscillating head. Because this tool operates by converting rotary motion into a rapid back-and-forth oscillation, even a microscopic shift in the center of gravity creates massive centrifugal force. This typically manifests as a "hand-numbing" shake that increases in intensity as you pull the trigger further. The root cause is usually one of three things: a warped blade, a loose mounting bolt, or a degraded clamping mechanism. If the blade is not seated perfectly flush against the tool's drive plate, it will "wobble" during its arc, creating a harmonic vibration that resonates through the handle. In more severe cases, the internal eccentric weight—the heavy metal piece that creates the oscillation—has shifted or developed play due to bearing wear, which manifests as a rhythmic knocking sound even when no blade is installed. To confirm if the issue is the blade or the tool, run the unit for three seconds without any accessory attached; if the vibration persists, the problem is internal. FIX Power down the tool and remove the 20V Max battery completely to prevent accidental activation. Using a 4mm hex key, loosen the central mounting bolt. Do not just loosen it; remove the bolt and the washer entirely to inspect the seating area. Inspect the blade's mounting hole. If the hole has become oval-shaped or has developed hairline cracks, discard the blade immediately. Clean the drive plate surface. Use a stiff brush or compressed air to remove sawdust, metal shavings, or dried adhesive that may be preventing the blade from sitting flat. Insert a fresh, high-quality blade. Ensure the blade is pushed firmly against the drive plate. If there is any gap between the blade's base and the tool's metal mount, the tool will vibrate. Reinstall the washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt firmly, but do not over-torque, as this can strip the threads in the drive shaft. Reinsert the battery and test the tool at the lowest speed setting before ramping up to full power. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Clamp Tension: If you are using a quick-change accessory system rather than the bolt-on method, the internal spring-loaded clamp may have lost tension. Replace the quick-change adapter or revert to the standard hex-bolt mounting system to see if the stability returns. Inspect for Internal Bearing Failure: If the tool vibrates without a blade, the eccentric bearing in the gear housing is likely worn. This often happens if the tool was dropped or used for heavy-duty grinding. You will need to disassemble the gear head to check for "play" in the shaft; if the shaft moves laterally more than 0.5mm, the bearing must be replaced. Check for Housing Cracks: Inspect the plastic casing around the head of the tool. A hairline crack in the gear housing can allow the internal motor mount to shift, causing the entire chassis to vibrate. If a crack is found, the housing shell must be replaced. Verify Motor Brush Integrity: In some cases, uneven motor performance (stuttering) can feel like vibration. If the tool is "surging," it may be a failing trigger switch or worn carbon brushes causing an irregular oscillation cycle. HEADS UP Avoid "Over-Driving": Never force the blade through a material. If the motor slows down and the vibration increases, you are applying too much pressure, which can bend the drive shaft. Blade Compatibility: Only use blades designed for the "universal" or "starlock" style mounts compatible with the DCS354B. Using off-brand blades with slightly off-center holes will cause permanent damage to the internal bearings. Heat Management: Excessive vibration generates heat. If the tool head feels hot to the touch, stop immediately. Heat can warp the drive plate, making it impossible to get a flush fit with new blades. Regular Cleaning: Use compressed air to blow out the vents every 10-15 minutes of heavy use. Dust buildup inside the gear housing can interfere with lubrication and lead to premature bearing failure.

Question 7

the blade keeps falling off my dcs354b no matter how tight i crank the bolt, it's driving me nuts.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The issue with the DeWalt DCS354B oscillating tool is almost always a failure of the mechanical tensioning system rather than the bolt itself. This tool utilizes a "clamping force" mechanism where a serrated star washer and a rubber O-ring work in tandem to create friction against the blade's mounting hole. When the O-ring degrades or the star washer becomes clogged with fine sawdust, the bolt may feel tight to the touch, but it isn't actually exerting downward pressure on the blade. Because this tool vibrates at thousands of oscillations per minute, any microscopic gap between the bolt head and the blade allows the blade to "walk" or shift. Once the blade shifts even a fraction of a millimeter, the centrifugal force and vibration will cause it to slip out of the mount entirely. You can confirm this by tightening the bolt and then attempting to rotate the blade by hand; if the blade rotates even slightly while the bolt is tightened, your clamping mechanism is compromised. FIX To resolve this, you must restore the compression seal and clean the mating surfaces. Follow these steps precisely: Remove the blade bolt entirely using the provided 5mm hex wrench. Set the bolt aside and inspect the shaft. Locate the small, flat black rubber O-ring (DeWalt part number N472377) seated on the bolt shaft. If this ring is flattened, cracked, or missing, the bolt will{ bottom out against the housing without actually squeezing the blade. Replace it with a genuine DeWalt replacement ring. Remove the internal serrated star washer (DeWalt part N472378). Use a can of compressed air or a stiff nylon brush to clear out the recessed cavity of the tool's head. Even a small amount of packed sawdust in this cavity prevents the washer from seating deeply enough to grip the blade. Inspect the blade's mounting hole. If you are using third-party blades, ensure the hole is a precise 20mm diameter; oversized holes will cause the blade to wander regardless of bolt tightness. Reinsert the star washer, place the blade firmly into the mount, and thread the bolt. Tighten the bolt using a "cross-pressure" technique: hold the blade firmly against the tool head with your thumb while applying clockwise torque with the wrench. Tighten until you feel a hard stop, then give it an additional 1/8th turn of tension. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Bolt Thread Stretching: If the bolt has been over-torqued in the past, the threads may have stretched, meaning the bolt "feels" tight before it actually makes contact with the washer. Replace the bolt assembly entirely with a new OEM kit to ensure the thread pitch is exact. Inspect the Tool Head Housing: Check the aluminum face of the tool head for "rounding" or gouging. If the metal has been worn down by a loose blade vibrating against it, the blade will no longer sit flush. You can temporarily fix this by adding a thin, high-temperature rubber shim between the blade and the tool head. Switch Blade Brands: Some budget-grade oscillating blades have slightly thinner mounting collars. Try a high-quality Carbide or Diamond-grit blade from DeWalt or Bosch; these typically have tighter manufacturing tolerances that fit the DCS354B mounting system more securely. Verify the Spring Tension: If the internal spring mechanism that pushes the bolt assembly forward is snapped or compressed, the bolt will never achieve the necessary clamping force. This requires a full teardown of the gear head to replace the internal tension spring. HEADS UP Avoid Thread Lockers: Never apply Loctite or any permanent thread-locking fluid to the blade bolt. This will make blade changes nearly impossible and can crack the aluminum housing during removal. Avoid Over-Torquing: The housing is aluminum and the bolt is steel. Applying excessive force with a long-handled wrench can strip the internal threads, rendering the tool useless. Use only the provided hex key. Regular Cleaning: After every single blade change, blow out the mounting cavity with air. Sawdust acts as a lubricant in this specific mechanism, which is exactly why blades start to slip. Check for Heat: If you have been cutting metal, the bolt can heat up and expand. Allow the tool to cool before tightening the bolt to ensure a snug, cold-set fit.

DeWalt 20V Max Oscillating Multi-Tool DCS354B

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