Question 1

it feels underpowered and bogs down in cuts it used to handle fine, even with a fresh battery.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The DeWalt DCCS620B is a high-torque brushless tool, meaning if it's bogging down, the motor is likely fighting excessive physical resistance rather than suffering from an electrical failure. When a chain loses its "bite," the cutters stop slicing the wood fibers and instead begin to "rub" or "sand" the material. This creates massive friction and heat, which triggers the motor's internal thermal protection or simply exceeds the torque capacity of the 20V Max battery system, causing the chain to slow or stop entirely during a cut. You can confirm this by looking at the sawdust. If the saw is producing fine, flour-like powder instead of distinct, curled wood chips, your chain is dull. Additionally, check the guide bar; if the chain is not gliding smoothly and you see scorched metal or a lack of oil film on the rails, the friction from a dry bar is adding significant drag that mimics a power loss. If the chain is sharp and lubricated but still bogs, the issue is likely a clogged oil discharge port or a worn-out drive sprocket that is binding the chain. FIX To restore full cutting power, follow this precision sharpening and maintenance sequence: Clean the Bar: Use a small flathead screwdriver or a pick to scrape out the packed sawdust and oil sludge from the groove along the entire length of the guide bar. A clogged groove prevents the chain from sitting flush, causing it to "wander" and increase drag. Inspect the Cutters: Use a 5/32" round file (the standard size for the DCCS620B chain). Identify the "depth gauge" or "raker"—the small hump of metal in front of the cutting tooth. If the raker is too high, the tooth cannot penetrate the wood. Use a depth gauge tool to file the rakers down until they are flush with the tool. Precision Sharpening: File each cutter at a consistent 30-degree angle. Ensure you file the same amount of material off each tooth to keep the chain balanced. File from the inside of the cutter toward the outside, applying pressure only on the forward stroke. Check Chain Tension: Pull the chain away from the bar. There should be a small gap, but the drive links must remain seated in the bar groove. Over-tightening the chain puts immense strain on the motor and is a common cause of "bogging" in battery-powered saws. Lubrication Flush: Fill the oil reservoir with a high-quality bar and chain oil. Run the saw for 30 seconds without cutting to ensure oil is reaching the tip of the bar. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Chain Entirely: If you have over-filed the teeth or if the chain has "stretched" (the pitch is no longer consistent), sharpening will not help. Replace the chain with a genuine DeWalt 16-inch 3/8" Low Profile chain. A stretched chain creates uneven tension and increases the load on the brushless motor. Clear the Oil Discharge Port: The DCCS620B has a small oiling hole that can become plugged with sawdust and dried sap. Use a can of compressed air or a thin wire to clear the port located near the sprocket. If the bar isn't lubricated, the heat expansion of the metal creates a "brake" effect that slows the motor. Inspect the Drive Sprocket: Remove the side cover and check the sprocket for burrs or worn-down grooves. If the sprocket is damaged, the chain will not seat properly, leading to mechanical binding that feels like a loss of power. Verify Battery Health: Ensure you are using a 5.0Ah or higher XR battery. While the tool works with smaller batteries, the high-current draw required for thick cuts can cause voltage sag in lower-capacity cells, leading to a perceived loss of power. HEADS UP Avoid "Sanding": Never force the saw through a cut. If the motor slows down, stop immediately. Forcing a dull chain can overheat the brushless controller and permanently damage the motor windings. Oil Every Use: Always check your oil level before every single battery swap. Running the DCCS620B dry for even five minutes can warp the guide bar and ruin the chain's temper. Correct File Angle: Using a file that is too large (e.g., 7/32") will round off the cutters and destroy the chain's ability to bite into the wood, requiring a full replacement. Storage: Store the saw in a dry place and wipe the bar with a light coat of oil to prevent surface rust, which increases friction during the next use.

Question 2

chain won't stop spinning when i let go of the trigger, it just keeps going slowly.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This phenomenon is known as "chain creep" or "ghosting." In the DeWalt DCCS620B, this occurs when the brushless motor controller continues to send a low-voltage signal to the motor after the trigger has been released. This is typically caused by a mechanical failure in the trigger return spring or a buildup of compressed sawdust and resin inside the trigger housing that physically prevents the switch from returning to the "off" position. Because the DCCS620B uses an electronic speed controller, even a fractional amount of trigger depression can keep the motor engaged at a low RPM. Alternatively, this can be an electrical failure within the MOSFETs of the motor controller board. If a transistor has partially failed or "leaked," it can allow current to flow to the motor even when the trigger signal is zero. You can confirm this by removing the battery and manually toggling the trigger several times; if the trigger feels "mushy" or doesn't snap back with a crisp click, the issue is mechanical. If the trigger snaps back perfectly but the chain still creeps when the battery is inserted, the issue is electronic. FIX Since this is a critical safety failure, you must isolate the power source before attempting any repairs. Follow these steps to clear the trigger assembly and reset the controller: Remove the 20V Max battery immediately and set it aside to prevent accidental startup. Use a can of compressed air or a high-pressure air nozzle to blow out the trigger housing. Direct the air specifically into the gaps around the trigger lever and the safety lockout button. Focus on the rear of the trigger where sawdust typically packs into the spring housing. Apply a small amount of electronic-grade contact cleaner (such as WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner) into the trigger switch mechanism. Do not use standard lubricant, as it will attract more sawdust and worsen the sticking. Rapidly cycle the trigger 20-30 times to break up any resinous buildup and distribute the cleaner. Reinsert the battery and test the trigger. If the chain still creeps, you must disassemble the handle housing by removing the T15 Torx screws to inspect the trigger spring for fatigue or breakage. If the spring is snapped, the entire trigger switch assembly must be replaced. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Chain Brake Mechanism: Ensure the chain brake (the front handguard) is not partially engaged. A partially tripped brake can create friction that makes a slow-spinning chain look like it is "creeping" when it is actually just coasting due to momentum. Fully retract the brake and test again. Test with a Different Battery: While rare, a faulty battery communication chip can occasionally send erratic signals to the XR motor controller. Swap your current pack for another 20V Max XR battery to rule out a power-delivery glitch. Replace the Motor Controller Board: If the trigger is mechanically snapping back but the chain continues to spin, the internal MOSFETs on the control board have likely failed. This requires a full replacement of the internal electronics module, as these boards are potted in resin and cannot be repaired at the component level. Check for Chain Tension Issues: If the chain is excessively loose, it may not engage the drive sprocket consistently, creating a sensation of "slipping" or "creeping" that is actually just mechanical play. Adjust the tension until the chain snaps back to the bar when lifted. HEADS UP Never attempt to "test" a creeping chain by putting your hand near the bar; always use a piece of scrap wood to verify if the chain is moving. Avoid using silicone sprays or oils on the trigger assembly, as these attract fine sawdust which turns into a "paste" that jams the safety switches. Always store the DCCS620B with the battery removed to prevent the motor from engaging if the trigger becomes stuck during transport. Check your chain tension every 10 minutes of use; an over-tightened chain can put undue stress on the motor controller, potentially leading to the electronic failure described above.

Question 3

dewalt chainsaw won't start at all, no noise, no click, nothing. battery works in my drill.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS When a DeWalt DCCS620B XR Chainsaw is completely unresponsive—meaning no LED indicator lights, no clicking from the relay, and no motor hum—the issue is almost always a break in the electrical continuity between the battery terminals and the motor controller. Since you have confirmed the battery works in another tool, the failure is isolated to the tool's internal power path or the safety interlocking system. The most common culprit is a failure in the electronic safety switch or a misalignment of the battery terminal pins. Because this tool handles high-current draws, the internal terminals can either oxidize or become slightly bent, preventing the "handshake" between the battery's BMS (Battery Management System) and the chainsaw's trigger assembly. If the tool doesn't even "click," the circuit is open, meaning the power isn't reaching the logic board. This can be caused by a blown internal fuse or a disconnected wire leading from the battery rail to the trigger switch, often caused by the vibration of heavy cutting. FIX Follow these steps to restore power to the unit: Inspect the Battery Rails: Remove the battery and look into the charging port of the chainsaw. Use a flashlight to check for bent copper pins or debris (like sawdust or wood chips) lodged in the terminal slots. Use a can of compressed air to blow out the port and a cotton swab with 90% isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts. Verify the Safety Lockout: The DCCS620B has a dual-action trigger. The safety lock (the lever on top of the handle) must be fully depressed before the trigger can engage the circuit. Ensure the lever isn't stuck in a "half-pressed" position due to debris; toggle it vigorously 10-15 times to clear any grit. Perform a Hard Reset: Remove the battery. Hold the trigger and the safety lock down simultaneously for 30 seconds. This drains any residual capacitance in the motor controller. Reinsert the battery and attempt to start. Check the Battery Seating: Ensure the battery is clicked fully into place. If the latch is loose, the battery may shift slightly during use, breaking the connection. Push the battery in firmly and ensure the locking mechanism engages with an audible click. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Test with a Different Voltage Battery: While your battery works in a drill, the DCCS620B is high-draw. If you are using a 2.0Ah battery, the tool may refuse to engage because the voltage drop is too high under the initial load. Try a 5.0Ah or higher XR battery to see if the tool triggers. Inspect for Internal Wire Fatigue: If the tool has been dropped or used heavily, the wires connecting the battery terminal block to the trigger switch may have snapped. If you are comfortable opening the housing, check for a loose solder joint or a disconnected spade connector on the trigger assembly. Check the Chain Brake Trigger: If the chain brake (the front hand guard) has been tripped, some versions of the electronic controller will prevent the motor from starting as a safety precaution. Pull the chain brake lever firmly back to the "off" position and ensure it is fully seated. Test the Trigger Switch Continuity: Using a multimeter set to ohms, check the trigger switch for continuity. If the switch shows an open circuit even when depressed, the trigger assembly (Part #D28481 or equivalent) has failed and requires replacement. HEADS UP Avoid Overloading: Never force the bar into the wood; let the chain speed do the work. Forcing the motor can trip the internal thermal overload protection, which may cause a temporary "dead" state until the tool cools. Chain Tensioning: Ensure your chain is not over-tightened. A chain that is too tight creates excessive friction, which increases the current draw and can lead to premature failure of the electronic controller. Battery Storage: Store your 20V Max batteries in a cool, dry place. Extreme heat can degrade the cells, leading to "phantom" charges where the battery works in a low-draw drill but fails in a high-draw chainsaw. Lubrication: Always check the bar oil reservoir before every use. Running the chain dry increases vibration and heat, which can loosen internal electrical connections over time.

Question 4

my chainsaw makes a high-pitched whining or grinding noise when it runs, doesn't sound right.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The high-pitched whining or grinding noise in the DeWalt DCCS620B is typically caused by one of two mechanical failures: acute friction due to a lubrication failure or a failing drive sprocket bearing. Because this is a brushless motor system, a "whine" that increases in pitch as the chain speeds up usually indicates that the chain is running "dry," causing metal-on-metal friction between the guide rail and the drive links. If the sound is more of a rhythmic grinding or a "shuddering" noise, the issue is likely located at the nose sprocket (the tip of the bar) where the small bearings have either seized or collected debris, forcing the chain to grind against the sprocket wheel. To confirm the cause, perform a "splatter test." Start the saw and lightly rev the trigger while pointing the tip of the bar toward a clean piece of cardboard or light-colored wood. If you do not see a fine mist of oil spraying onto the surface, your automatic oiler is clogged or empty, and the whining noise is the result of the chain overheating and dragging across the bar. If oil is spraying but the noise persists and feels like a vibration in the handle, the nose sprocket is the culprit. FIX Follow these steps to resolve lubrication and sprocket issues: Immediate Shutdown: Remove the 20V Max battery immediately to prevent the motor from overheating or stripping the drive gear. Oil Reservoir Audit: Open the bar oil cap. If the oil level is below the halfway mark, fill it to the brim using a high-quality tackifying bar and chain oil. Do not use motor oil or WD-40, as these lack the viscosity to cling to the bar at high RPMs. Clear the Oil Port: Locate the small circular oiling hole where the bar meets the saw housing. Use a thin piece of wire or a compressed air canister to clear any sawdust or resin buildup blocking the port. This is the most common cause of "dry" running on the DCCS620B. Nose Sprocket Inspection: Use a small pick to remove any packed sawdust from the tip of the bar. If the nose sprocket does not spin freely by hand, use a can of penetrating oil to loosen the bearing. Chain Tension Adjustment: Loosen the bar nuts slightly and turn the tensioning knob until the chain is snug against the bar but can still be pulled along the rail by hand. An overly tight chain creates a high-pitched "singing" noise due to excessive tension on the motor. Verification: Reinsert the battery and run the saw for 30 seconds. Check for the oil spray again to ensure the lubrication cycle is active. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Guide Bar: If the bar has developed a "burr" or a sharp ridge along the rails, the chain will grind against the metal regardless of how much oil you use. Inspect the edges of the bar; if they are flared or jagged, replace the bar entirely. Swap the Chain: A damaged drive link (the part of the chain that fits into the bar groove) can cause a rhythmic grinding noise. Replace the chain with a new, sharpened 16-inch chain to see if the noise disappears. Inspect the Drive Sprocket: Remove the side cover and check the main drive sprocket for worn teeth or debris. If the sprocket teeth are rounded off or chipped, they will create a grinding sound as they engage the chain. Battery Check: In rare cases, a failing battery cell can cause the brushless controller to "hunt" for power, creating an electronic whining sound. Swap the battery with a known-good 5.0Ah or higher XR battery to rule out electrical oscillation. HEADS UP Oil Every Time: Never run the saw without checking the oil reservoir. Running a chain dry for even two minutes can permanently warp the guide bar and ruin the chain's temper. Avoid Over-Tensioning: The DCCS620B is a high-torque tool; if the chain is too tight, you risk snapping the drive sprocket or burning out the motor controller. Clean the Air Vent: Dust buildup around the motor vents can cause the fan to whine. Use compressed air to blow out the motor housing every 5-10 cuts. Use Proper Lubricants: Only use bar-specific oil. Using thinner oils will result in the oil being flung off the bar before it reaches the tip, leading to the same grinding noise you are currently experiencing.

Question 5

the chain on my dccs620b keeps coming loose no matter how tight i get it, i tighten it and two cuts later it's sagging again.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The DCCS620B is a high-torque tool, and the rapid loosening of the chain usually stems from one of three root causes: improper initial tensioning (over-tightening), "chain stretch" caused by heat or wear, or a compromised guide bar. When a chain is tightened while the bar is not under load, it can seem secure, but as soon as the bar enters a log, the wood creates a "pinch" or "push" effect that forces the bar to bow slightly, effectively lengthening the path the chain must travel and causing it to sag. Furthermore, if you are using a non-OEM chain or a chain that has been run without proper lubrication, the drive links undergo microscopic stretching. This isn't the metal actually stretching, but rather the rivets wearing down. If the drive link tangs (the protrusions that fit into the bar groove) have worn down or the bar groove itself has widened (ovaled), the tensioning pin cannot maintain a consistent hold. You can confirm this by running your fingernail along the bar groove; if it feels wide or "sloppy" compared to the base of the bar, the bar is shot. If the chain feels loose only after a few cuts, you are likely experiencing "thermal expansion" where the chain heats up and elongates. FIX To properly tension the DCCS620B and ensure it stays locked, follow this precise sequence: Loosen the bar nuts using the onboard tool or a socket wrench just enough so the bar can move, but not so loose that it flops. Place the tip of the guide bar firmly on a sturdy workbench or a log. This is critical; the bar must be under a slight downward load to simulate a cut. Grasp the "head" (the tip) of the bar and lift it upward slightly. This puts the chain under maximum tension at the drive sprocket. While holding the bar up, turn the tensioning knob clockwise. Continue turning until the chain snaps firmly against the bottom of the bar. Test the "Snap": Pull the chain away from the bar in the middle of the guide. It should pull away about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch and "snap" back instantly. If it stays away or feels limp, it is too loose. Tighten the bar nuts firmly while maintaining the upward pressure on the bar tip. Re-check the tension after the first 30 seconds of cutting, as new chains always stretch during the first few passes. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Guide Bar: If you see "burrs" or mushrooming on the edges of the bar rails, the chain is rubbing against the sides, creating friction that pushes the chain out of alignment. Replace the bar with a genuine DeWalt 16-inch replacement to restore the tight tolerances of the groove. Swap the Chain for a New OEM Set: If the chain has reached its "stretch limit," no amount of tightening will help because the drive links are too short to be captured by the tensioner. Install a fresh 3/8" low-profile chain. Avoid generic "big box" chains that may have slightly different pitch tolerances. Inspect the Drive Sprocket: Remove the side cover and inspect the drive sprocket for deep grooves or "hooks." If the sprocket is worn, it will not seat the chain links properly, causing the chain to "jump" and loosen during high-RPM cuts. Check the Bar Oil Flow: Ensure the oil reservoir is full and the oil holes are clear. A dry chain heats up rapidly, causing the metal to expand and the chain to sag almost immediately. If the chain is dry to the touch after a cut, the oil pump may be failing. HEADS UP Never over-tighten: A chain that is "guitar-string tight" will put immense pressure on the motor's drive sprocket and the battery's electronics, leading to premature motor failure or an "overload" shutdown. The 5-Cut Rule: For the first five cuts with a new chain, check the tension every single time. New chains "seat" themselves and will always loosen initially. Clean the Groove: Every time you change the chain, use a thin flat-head screwdriver or a dedicated bar groove cleaner to scrape out the packed sawdust and pitch from the bar channel. Lubrication is Key: Only use high-quality bar and chain oil. Using motor oil or WD-40 can degrade the seals in the DCCS620B's automatic oiler.

Question 6

oil is leaking out of my dewalt chainsaw like crazy from the bottom when it's just sitting in the garage.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The leakage occurring in the DeWalt DCCS620B is typically caused by the gravity-fed design of the bar and chain oiling system. Unlike the motor, which is sealed, the oil reservoir uses a simple flow-through mechanism to ensure the chain remains lubricated during high-speed cuts. When the saw is stored upright or on its base, the oil sits directly against the discharge port. Because bar oil is formulated with a very low viscosity to ensure it can penetrate the chain links quickly, it can seep past the internal seals via capillary action or simple gravity. This is further exacerbated if the saw is stored in a garage where temperature fluctuations cause the air inside the reservoir to expand and contract, effectively "pumping" the oil out of the tank and onto the floor. To confirm this is the issue, place a clean piece of cardboard under the saw; if the drip is coming from the area where the bar meets the chassis rather than the battery compartment, it is a standard oil bleed. If the oil is thick and smells like burnt electronics, you have a catastrophic motor seal failure, but in 95% of cases, it is simply the lubrication system venting. FIX To stop the leaking and preserve your workspace, follow these specific storage and maintenance steps: Drain the Reservoir: If you are not planning to use the saw for more than a week, empty the bar oil tank. Unscrew the oil cap and tip the saw carefully to pour the remaining oil into a waste container. Clean the Discharge Port: Use a compressed air can or a stiff nylon brush to clear any sawdust or wood chips from the oiling hole located at the base of the guide bar. Debris here can create a "wick" that pulls oil out of the tank even when the saw is off. Correct Storage Orientation: Never store the DCCS620B standing vertically on its handle or flat on its bar tip. Instead, lay the saw on its side. Position it so the oil tank cap is facing upward and the guide bar is parallel to the ground. This moves the oil level away from the discharge port. Seal the Cap: Ensure the oil cap is threaded correctly and tightened firmly. A cross-threaded cap will allow air to enter, which pushes oil out through the bottom of the unit. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Bar Oil Pump: If the leaking is excessive (more than a few drops per hour), the internal oil pump seal may be compromised. Remove the guide bar by loosening the mounting nuts and inspect the oil delivery hole for any visible cracks or rubber gaskets that have perished. If the seal is torn, the entire oil pump assembly must be replaced. Check for Overfilling: Ensure you are not filling the oil reservoir to the absolute brim. Leave approximately 1/4 inch of headspace at the top of the tank. Overfilling creates excessive internal pressure that forces oil out of the delivery system. Switch Oil Viscosity: If you are using a generic "all-purpose" thin oil, switch to a high-quality, tacky bar and chain oil specifically designed for cordless saws. Thicker, tackier oils are less prone to seeping through the seals during static storage. Verify Bar Installation: Ensure the guide bar is seated perfectly flush against the chassis. If the bar is slightly crooked, it can create a gap in the oiling port, allowing oil to leak externally rather than flowing down the bar. HEADS UP Avoid Solvent Cleaning: Never use gasoline or harsh chemical degreasers to clean the oil tank area, as these can degrade the rubber seals and cause permanent leaks. Battery Safety: Always remove the 20V Max battery before performing maintenance or cleaning the oil leak to prevent accidental trigger engagement. Bar Maintenance: Every 5-10 uses, remove the bar and clean the oil groove with a thin piece of plastic or a wire to prevent "oil backup," which forces lubricant to leak out the bottom. Storage Temperature: Avoid storing the saw in areas where temperatures drop below freezing, as the oil can thicken and then leak unpredictably when the garage warms up.

Question 7

chainsaw starts but then stops after a few seconds of cutting, like it's overheating or something. battery is full.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The DeWalt DCCS620B features an integrated Electronic Overload Protection (EOP) system designed to protect the brushless motor from permanent thermal damage. When the saw shuts down mid-cut despite a full battery, the motor controller has detected a current spike—essentially an "amp draw" that exceeds the safe operating threshold. This happens when the resistance against the chain is greater than the motor's torque capacity can handle without overheating the internal windings. This is rarely a battery failure and almost always a mechanical resistance issue. If the chain is dull, the teeth "rub" rather than "slice," creating massive friction that spikes the motor's temperature in seconds. Similarly, if the chain tension is too tight, it creates excessive drag on the drive sprocket. You can confirm this by running the saw in open air; if it runs indefinitely without cutting wood but shuts down the moment it hits a log, the EOP is functioning correctly and the issue is external to the motor electronics. FIX To resolve the overload shutdowns, you must reduce the mechanical load on the brushless motor by optimizing the cutting edge and drive system. Cool-Down Period: Power down the tool and remove the 20V Max battery. Wait at least 10 minutes. The EOP will not reset instantly; the internal thermistor must reach a baseline temperature before the controller allows the motor to engage again. Chain Sharpening: Inspect the cutters. If the chrome finish on the cutting edge is gone or rounded, use a 5/32" (4.0mm) round file specifically designed for 3/8" low-profile chain. File from the inside out, maintaining the original factory angle (typically 30 degrees). Ensure each tooth is filed equally to prevent the saw from pulling to one side, which increases friction. Tension Adjustment: Loosen the bar nut slightly. Pull the chain tight against the bar; there should be a small gap (about 1/16") between the drive link and the bar rail. If the chain is "guitar-string" tight, it puts immense pressure on the sprocket, triggering the overload sensor. Tighten the nut firmly but do not over-torque. Bar Lubrication Check: Ensure the bar oil reservoir is full. Check that the oil holes in the bar are not clogged with sawdust. A dry bar creates immense heat and friction, which contributes to the thermal cutoff. Cutting Technique: Avoid "forcing" the saw. Let the chain speed do the work. If you have to push the saw hard into the wood, you are overloading the motor. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Swap the Chain: If sharpening doesn't help, install a brand new 16" low-profile chain. Sometimes chains develop "micro-fractures" or lose their temper (hardness) due to overheating, making them impossible to sharpen effectively. A fresh chain often eliminates the amp-spike issue. Inspect the Drive Sprocket: Remove the side cover and check the drive sprocket for burrs or accumulated debris. If the sprocket is worn or clogged with pitch and sawdust, the motor has to fight the drive system before it even hits the wood. Clean it with a wire brush and a bit of solvent. Test with a High-Capacity Battery: While you mentioned the battery is full, try a 5.0Ah or 9.0Ah XR battery if you are using a 2.0Ah. Lower capacity batteries can suffer from "voltage sag" under heavy load, which the tool may interpret as a power failure or overload condition. Check for Bar Rail Wear: Inspect the guide bar for "burrs" (small metal lips) along the edges. Use a flat mill file to remove these burrs. If the chain is rubbing against a damaged rail, it creates significant drag. HEADS UP Avoid "Burying" the Bar: Never cut with the tip of the bar or bury the entire 16" length into a thick log. This creates maximum friction and is the fastest way to trigger the EOP. Oil Every Time: Never run the DCCS620B without bar oil. The brushless motor is efficient, but the friction of metal-on-metal will heat the bar to the point where the chain expands and loses tension. Clean the Vents: Use compressed air to blow out the motor housing vents. If sawdust builds up inside the casing, the motor cannot dissipate heat, causing the thermal cutoff to trigger much sooner than it should.

Question 8

my dewalt 20v chainsaw ran fine yesterday but today it just clicks when i pull the trigger, no blade movement at all.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The rhythmic "click" you hear when pulling the trigger on the DeWalt DCCS620B is the sound of the motor attempting to engage while the mechanical chain brake is locked. This is not an electrical failure or a blown fuse; it is a safety mechanism designed to prevent "kickback" injuries. When the chain brake is engaged, a steel band physically clamps the sprocket, preventing the chain from rotating even if the motor is receiving power. This often happens inadvertently during transport or if the front handguard was bumped while setting the tool down. Because the motor is brushless and high-torque, it will try to force the chain to move, but the mechanical lock prevents it, resulting in that distinct clicking sound as the electronic controller detects the resistance and cuts power to prevent the motor from burning out. You can confirm this by checking the position of the front handguard; if it is pushed forward (away from the handle), the brake is active. FIX To disengage the brake and restore chain movement, follow these precise steps: Remove the 20V Max battery from the tool entirely to ensure there is no accidental activation during the process. Locate the front handguard (the large plastic shield situated in front of the left-hand grip). Grip the edge of the handguard firmly and pull it backward toward the rear handle in one swift, decisive motion. Continue pulling until you hear a loud, audible "click" and the guard locks into the rearward position. This unlocks the sprocket clamp. Reinsert your 20V Max battery, ensuring it clicks firmly into the rails. Squeeze the trigger fully. The chain should now rotate freely without the clicking sound. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Chain Jamming: If the brake is disengaged but you still hear clicking, the chain may be pinched or derailed. Loosen the bar nuts using the onboard tool, remove the guide bar, and inspect the drive sprocket for any wood chips or debris wedged between the sprocket and the housing. Clear any debris with compressed air. Battery Voltage Threshold: The DCCS620B requires a high current draw to break the initial inertia of the chain. If you are using a low-capacity battery (e.g., 2.0Ah) that is nearly depleted, the tool may "click" as the Battery Management System (BMS) trips the over-current protection. Swap to a fully charged 5.0Ah or 9.0Ah XR battery to see if the problem persists. Inspect the Trigger Safety Lock: Ensure the safety lock-off button (the sliding switch above the trigger) is fully depressed. If the switch is partially engaged, it can cause erratic electrical contact that sounds like a rapid click or stutter. Verify Chain Tension: An over-tightened chain creates immense friction on the motor. If the chain is too tight to move by hand (while the tool is off), the motor will stall immediately upon startup, creating a clicking sound. Loosen the tensioner screw and ensure there is a slight "sag" in the chain. HEADS UP Chain Lubrication: Never run the DCCS620B without checking the bar oil reservoir. A dry chain increases friction and heat, which can lead to the motor overheating and triggering an automatic electronic shutdown. Battery Heat: If the battery is too hot from a previous task, the XR circuitry will prevent the motor from engaging to protect the cells. Let the battery cool for 15 minutes if you notice a sudden loss of power. Cleaning the Sprocket: Every 5-10 cuts, use a stiff brush to remove sawdust and oil buildup from the drive sprocket area. Accumulated grime can interfere with the chain brake's ability to reset fully. Tension Check: Always check chain tension after the first 5 minutes of use; the chain stretches as it warms up, and improper tension can lead to the "clicking" stall you experienced.

DeWalt 20V Max XR Chainsaw DCCS620B

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