Question 1

it feels underpowered and bogs down in cuts it used to handle fine, even with a fresh battery.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Loss of power is rarely the motor itself. Nine times out of ten, it's a dull chain. The other time, it's a lubrication issue causing massive drag. FIX Sharpen your chain. This is your number one task. A dull chain doesn't cut—it sands. The motor spends all its energy creating heat and dust instead of chips. Use the correct file size, maintain the original angles, and get every cutter to a sharp point. After sharpening, test it in a soft piece of wood without pushing. It should pull itself into the cut with little effort. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for excessive drag. 1) With the battery out, pull the chain around the bar by hand. It should move smoothly. If it's very stiff, your bar might be bent or the chain too tight. 2) Ensure oil is flowing abundantly. Run the saw and check for an oil line on your scrap wood. A dry chain creates incredible resistance. HEADS UP Avoid using "rapid charge" batteries if you have them. Some users report that the high-output 20V Max batteries (like the PowerStack) can deliver more consistent power for tough cutting jobs than older or smaller capacity batteries. The tool is only as good as the sharpness of its edge and the juice you give it.

Question 2

chain won't stop spinning when i let go of the trigger, it just keeps going slowly.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is called "chain creep" or "coasting," and it's a serious safety issue. On this saw, it's almost always caused by a failing or stuck trigger switch or a problem with the electronic brake circuit. FIX Immediately engage the chain brake by pushing the front handguard forward to stop the chain. Remove the battery. Do not use the saw. The trigger assembly is likely faulty. Sometimes debris like sawdust or a wood chip can get lodged in the trigger mechanism, preventing it from fully returning to the 'off' position. With the battery out, try working the trigger back and forth vigorously and blow out the area with compressed air. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The electronic brake function within the motor controller or the trigger switch itself has failed. This is not a user-serviceable part on this model. The saw needs to be taken out of service and repaired by an authorized technician. Continuing to use it is dangerous. HEADS UP This is one of the few problems where you should stop troubleshooting and plan for a repair. A chain that doesn't stop when you tell it to is a major hazard. Do not attempt to bypass or "live with" this issue. The cost of a repair is far less than the potential cost of an injury.

Question 3

dewalt chainsaw won't start at all, no noise, no click, nothing. battery works in my drill.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A complete lack of response, even with a known-good battery, points to a break in the electrical circuit. The most common culprits are a faulty trigger switch or a loose internal connection. FIX Start with the simplest things. 1) Ensure the chain brake is disengaged (handguard pulled back). If it's on, the switch is mechanically blocked. 2) Try a different 20V Max battery, even if you think the first one is good. 3) Inspect the battery terminals on the saw and the battery for dirt, debris, or bent contacts. Clean them with a dry cloth. 4) Look for any obvious damage to the trigger or wiring you can see without taking it apart. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The issue is likely internal. There's a small circuit board and switch assembly. If you're comfortable, you can remove the housing screws (remembering their positions) to check for disconnected wire plugs or burnt components. Often, the trigger switch itself fails. For most people, this is the point where a repair at a DeWalt service center becomes the most reliable option. HEADS UP Before you do any disassembly, remove the battery. There's no lingering charge, but it's just good practice. Also, if your saw is still under warranty, opening it up yourself might void that coverage. If simple battery/brake checks don't solve it, a professional diagnosis is the next smart step.

Question 4

my chainsaw makes a high-pitched whining or grinding noise when it runs, doesn't sound right.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A high-pitched mechanical noise usually points to a lack of lubrication on the chain or a problem with the drive sprocket at the tip of the bar. FIX Stop using it immediately to prevent damage. First, check your bar and chain oil. Is the reservoir full? With the saw off, hold it over some scrap wood and look at the spot where the chain enters the housing near the bar. You should see a small oil port. Manually drip some bar oil into that port to help free up a potential clog. Then, run the saw at high speed (not touching wood) and look for oil being flung off the chain onto your scrap wood. If no oil appears, the oil pump or passage is blocked. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the sprocket at the nose of the bar. Make sure it turns freely by hand (with the chain off). If it's gritty, seized, or has damaged teeth, it will make awful noises. You may need to replace the bar if the sprocket is integral and damaged. HEADS UP Never, ever run the chain without lubrication, even for a few seconds. The friction generates extreme heat almost instantly, which can weld the chain to the bar ("gall") and ruin both. That grinding noise is the sound of expensive metal-on-metal wear. Always make sure oil is flowing before you cut.

Question 5

the chain on my dccs620b keeps coming loose no matter how tight i get it, i tighten it and two cuts later it's sagging again.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is a classic sign of a worn drive link tang (the part of the chain that fits into the bar groove) or, more commonly, a worn bar. As the bar groove widens from use, it can't hold the chain tightly. FIX First, inspect the bar, especially the groove the chain runs in. Look for a "hooked" or widened opening. If it's visibly worn, the bar needs replacement. If the bar looks okay, the issue is likely your tightening procedure. Here's the right way: 1) Loosen the bar nuts. 2) Lift the tip of the bar up to take slack out of the chain. 3) While holding the bar tip up, tighten the bar nuts firmly. The chain should be snug but still pull freely around the bar by hand. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The chain itself might be stretched beyond its service life. Chains do stretch, and a severely stretched chain won't hold tension. Compare it to a new chain. If it's significantly longer, it's time for a new chain. HEADS UP Overtightening is a common mistake and can damage the bar, chain, or even the saw's motor bearings. A properly tensioned chain will have a little bit of sag on the bottom side of the bar, but should not droop away from the bar. Always re-check tension after the first minute of use on a new or cold chain, as it will seat itself.

Question 6

oil is leaking out of my dewalt chainsaw like crazy from the bottom when it's just sitting in the garage.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's almost certainly bar and chain oil leaking from the tank. It's a very thin oil designed to flow easily, and it can seep out if the saw is stored in a certain position. FIX The proper storage position for this saw is on its side, with the bar and the oil tank cap facing upward. Never store it flat on its base or on the bar tip. Before long-term storage, it's also a good practice to empty the oil tank. Run the saw until the oil is mostly used up, or you can carefully drain it by removing the fill cap (over a rag or container). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's leaking even when stored correctly, check the oil tank cap's O-ring. It's a small rubber ring on the cap. Make sure it's clean, not cracked or deformed, and seated properly. A damaged O-ring won't seal the tank. HEADS UP Don't use motor oil or thick grease as bar oil—it's too thick for the small pump and will cause worse problems. Use only proper bar and chain oil. The leak is messy, but it's usually a storage issue, not a sign the saw is broken.

Question 7

chainsaw starts but then stops after a few seconds of cutting, like it's overheating or something. battery is full.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is typically the overload protection kicking in. The saw's motor has a thermal cutoff to prevent damage if it's working too hard, which can be triggered by a dull chain or pushing too hard. FIX First, let the saw cool down for 5-10 minutes. The main fix is to sharpen your chain. A dull chain forces the motor to work exponentially harder. Use a round file that matches your chain's pitch (likely 3/8" low-profile) and follow the existing angles on each cutter. Make sure you're filing every cutter to the same length. After sharpening, try making a cut without forcing the saw—let the sharp teeth do the work. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check that the bar and chain are properly lubricated. A dry chain creates immense friction. Fill the oil reservoir with bar and chain oil, start the saw (pointing the bar at a piece of scrap wood or the ground), and rev it to see if oil is flinging off the tip of the chain. If not, the oiler port might be clogged. HEADS UP Don't ignore this shutdown. If you keep triggering the overload repeatedly, you can permanently weaken the motor. Sharp chain, proper lubrication, and letting the tool cut at its own pace are the keys to keeping this saw running cool and long.

Question 8

my dewalt 20v chainsaw ran fine yesterday but today it just clicks when i pull the trigger, no blade movement at all.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That single-click sound is almost always a sign the chain brake is engaged. It's a safety lock that physically stops the chain from spinning when it's on. FIX This is a simple one. Look at the front handguard, the big plastic shield in front of your left hand. Pull it back firmly towards the rear handle until you hear and feel it click into the disengaged position. You should now be able to pull the trigger and have the chain spin freely (without touching anything, of course). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the handguard was already back and it's still just clicking, the battery might be too low. The saw needs a minimum voltage to run the motor, and a nearly-dead battery can sometimes still power the solenoid 'click' but not the motor itself. Try a different, fully charged DeWalt 20V Max battery. HEADS UP Always check the chain brake before you start cutting. If you force the saw while it's engaged, you can damage the internal mechanism or the motor. It's designed to be engaged with a quick forward motion of your left hand if kickback happens, so getting familiar with its position is a key safety habit.

DeWalt 20V Max XR Chainsaw DCCS620B

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