Question 1

the remote control for my dr-968 stopped working, i changed the battery but it's still dead

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS It's usually one of three things: a poor battery connection in the remote, the sensor window on the heater being blocked, or the remote's internal circuit getting zapped by a static discharge or a bad battery. FIX 1) Double-check the battery. Use a name-brand CR2025 battery and ensure the positive (+) side is facing down, towards the circuit board. Clean the battery contacts in the remote with a pencil eraser to remove any corrosion. 2) Check the infrared sensor on the heater's control panel. Wipe it gently with a dry cloth—dust or smudges can block the signal. 3) Stand within 15 feet with a clear line of sight to the heater and try again. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The remote might need a reset. Take the battery out and press every button on the remote a few times to discharge any residual power. Leave the battery out for a full minute. Reinsert the battery and try. Also, test if the remote is emitting a signal by pointing it at your smartphone camera (in selfie mode) and pressing a button—you should see a faint purple light flash in the camera view from the remote's LED. HEADS UP The heater's control panel can be temporarily 'blind' to the remote if the main unit is in a fault state (like an overheat condition). If the heater isn't responding to its own buttons either, address that primary issue first. Replacement remotes are available, but they sometimes need to be paired—consult for a pairing procedure, which usually involves holding buttons on the heater and remote simultaneously.

Question 2

there's a weird plastic burning smell when i first turn it on this season, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A brief, mild odor during the first use of the season is usually just dust burning off the heating element. Dust settles inside over the summer, and when the ceramic element heats up, it cooks that dust off. It should fade within 10-15 minutes. FIX To minimize this, do a 'burn-off' outside or in a well-ventilated garage. 1) Take the heater outside. 2) Plug it in and run it on High heat for 15-20 minutes. This allows any accumulated dust to burn away without filling your house with the smell. 3) After that, let it cool, bring it back in, and the smell should be gone for the season. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the smell is strong, sharp, and continuous, or if you see smoke, stop using it immediately. Unplug it. This could indicate a foreign object (like a plastic bag fragment) stuck inside or a wiring issue. You'd need to inspect the interior for debris or melted components. HEADS UP Never ignore a persistent electrical burning smell (acrid, like burnt wires) as opposed to a dusty smell. The initial dust burn-off is normal, but a smell that doesn't clear up after a short period or returns every time you use it points to a problem that needs inspection. Always keep the area around the heater clear of any objects that could get drawn in.

Question 3

my heater turns off by itself after a while even though it's not overheated and the room is still cold

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is likely the built-in thermostat doing its job, but it might be reading the room temperature incorrectly due to its placement or a draft. The DR-968 has an adjustable thermostat dial that cycles the heater on and off to maintain a set *ambient* temperature, not to run continuously. FIX 1) Check the thermostat dial on the side. If it's set low (like between Min and 65°), the heater will shut off once the air near its sensor feels that warm. Turn the dial to a higher setting (towards Max) and see if it runs longer. 2) Relocate the heater. Its temperature sensor is inside the unit. If it's in a corner, behind furniture, or in a direct draft from a cold window, it will get a false reading. Move it to an open area where it can sense the room's average temperature. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The auto-shutoff timer might be activated. Some models have a 12-hour safety timer. If you've had it running for a long stretch, it may shut off and need to be manually turned back on. Unplug it for a minute, then plug it back in and restart. HEADS UP Don't confuse the thermostat dial (which controls temperature) with the heat setting switch (High/Low/Eco). The Eco mode uses the thermostat aggressively to save power, so it will cycle off more frequently. For steady heat in a very cold room, use High or Low heat setting and set the thermostat dial near Max.

Question 4

the tip over switch is too sensitive, my heater shuts off if the floor vibrates or my dog bumps it

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The safety switch in the base is a weighted pendulum design. It's meant to be sensitive, but excessive vibration or an uneven floor can cause nuisance trips. It's rarely 'defective,' but it can be reacting to its environment. FIX First, check your placement. 1) Move the heater to the most solid, level section of floor you have—avoid wooden floor joists or areas near foot traffic. A tile floor or a low-pile rug is best. 2) Make sure all four feet are firmly on the ground. Rock the unit gently; if it wobbles, the floor is uneven. You can place a thin, solid board (like a cutting board) underneath to create a stable platform. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the base. With the unit unplugged, turn it over and look for obstructions. Sometimes a carpet fiber or debris can impede the swinging weight of the switch. Gently clean out the base compartment with a vacuum hose nozzle. Listen for the switch inside moving freely with a slight *click*. HEADS UP Do not attempt to disable or tape down the tip-over switch. It's a critical fire safety feature. If the heater is constantly tripping on a seemingly level, solid floor, the switch mechanism might be damaged from a previous hard drop. In that case, contact the manufacturer—it's not a user-serviceable part.

Question 5

how do you clean this thing? the manual is vague and i don't want to break the inside parts

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You're right to be cautious. The main goal is to clear dust from the air intake and output paths without damaging the fragile ceramic heating element or the fan blades. It doesn't need internal disassembly for routine cleaning. FIX Unplug and let it cool. 1) Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment on both the rear (intake) and front (output) metal grilles. Go over them thoroughly—this is 90% of the job. 2) For deeper dust, use a can of compressed air. Hold the heater upright and shoot short bursts through the rear grille to blow dust out the front. Do this outside or over a trash can. 3) Wipe the exterior with a slightly damp cloth, then dry it. Never use liquids, sprays, or immerse any part. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If performance is still poor after vacuuming, there's a chance dust is matted on the heating element itself. This requires removing the rear cover (a few screws). Once open, you can gently use the compressed air to blow dust off the ceramic element blocks. Do NOT touch or wipe the element—it's very brittle. HEADS UP The most fragile part is the PTC ceramic heating element. Never poke anything through the grilles to clean it. Also, avoid tilting or shaking the heater aggressively to dislodge dust—you can damage the fan balance or the tip-over switch. A quick vacuum every few weeks during use keeps it running efficiently.

Question 6

the heater fan runs but no heat comes out, just blowing cold air after a few minutes

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The heating element or its associated safety relay isn't engaging. This is often because the overheat protection (OHP) sensor has tripped due to restricted airflow, but the fan is still allowed to run to cool the unit down. FIX 1) Unplug the heater. 2) The most common fix is a thorough cleaning. Vacuum the rear air intake grille thoroughly—lint and dust block the sensor. 3) Carefully vacuum the front output grille too. 4) Ensure you have the heater on a hard, flat surface with at least 3 feet of clearance in front and behind. Plug it back in, set it to Heat (not Fan Only), and try again. The sensor needs to see free airflow to allow heat. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The issue could be a faulty connection at the control board. With the unit unplugged and cold, you can remove the few screws on the back panel and check that the wire connectors to the ceramic heating element are snug. Look for any obviously discolored or burnt wires near the element. Don't touch the element itself. HEADS UP Running the heater on 'Fan Only' mode for extended periods won't cause this, but running it on 'Heat' in a dusty environment or with intake blocked by curtains or furniture will trip the safety. If cleaning doesn't restore heat, the OHP sensor itself may need replacement.

Question 7

dr-968 heater won't turn on at all, no lights, no fan, nothing. checked the outlet and it's fine

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You've got a complete loss of power, which usually points to the thermal safety switch inside being tripped or a failure in the main power connection. These units have multiple overheat protections that can cut all power if they're triggered. FIX Unplug the heater and move it to a cool, open area. Let it sit unplugged for at least 30-45 minutes. This gives the internal thermal fuses and safety cut-offs time to fully reset. After waiting, plug it directly into a known-good wall outlet (no power strip or extension cord). Press the power button firmly. Often, this full cool-down reset will bring it back to life. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK There's a small chance the tip-over switch got stuck. With the unit unplugged, carefully tilt it back and forth and listen for a faint *click* or *clunk* from the base—that's the weighted safety switch recentering. Try turning it on in different angles (upright, slightly tilted) to see if the switch is making intermittent contact. HEADS UP If it's still completely dead after a long cool-down and outlet check, the internal thermal fuse may have blown permanently, which requires professional repair. Continuously trying to power it on won't fix that. Using it on a thick carpet or in an overly confined space is a common cause of these safety trips.

Question 8

my dr infrared heater just started making this loud clicking or rattling noise when it's running, sounds like something's loose inside

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's almost always a loose grille or a foreign object like a small piece of debris bouncing around on the fan blades. The fan assembly is pretty tight from the factory, so it's rarely an internal mechanical failure. FIX First, unplug the heater and let it cool completely. 1) Check the front and rear protective grilles. Give them a gentle wiggle—sometimes a plastic clip doesn't seat fully after moving it. Press firmly around the edges to snap it back in. 2) Tilt the heater side-to-side and listen for anything sliding. If you hear it, look through the grilles with a flashlight. You might be able to see a twist-tie, piece of packing foam, or a bug. Use a can of compressed air (like for keyboards) to blow through the rear grille and dislodge it. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the noise is more of a rhythmic scraping or grinding, the fan motor shaft might need a drop of light machine oil. There's a small access port on the motor housing at the rear. One drop of 3-in-1 oil into the port can quiet a dry bearing. Don't overdo it. HEADS UP Never try to bend the grille wires or insert tools to stop the fan—you can easily throw the blade out of balance or damage the heating element. If the noise is truly internal and the compressed air trick doesn't work, it's time to contact support.

Dr Infrared DR-968 Portable Space Heater

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