Question 1

it takes forever to fill, like 15 minutes just to get enough water to start washing.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The slow fill time on the GE GTW685BSLWS is almost always caused by a restriction in the water flow, typically occurring at the inlet valve screens. Over time, calcium carbonate (scale), rust from galvanized piping, or sediment from municipal water lines accumulate in the fine mesh filters located inside the water inlet valve ports. This restricts the volume of water entering the tub, forcing the machine to run the fill cycle for an extended period before the pressure switch triggers the start of the agitation phase. You can confirm this is the issue by observing the flow of water into the tub. If the water enters as a trickle or a very thin stream rather than a powerful rush, the blockage is physical. If you hear the valve humming or clicking but no water is flowing, the screen is likely completely occluded. In rarer cases, if only one temperature (e.g., only cold) is filling slowly, the problem is isolated to that specific valve solenoid or its corresponding screen. FIX To clear the obstructions and restore full water pressure, follow these precise steps: Disconnect the power cord from the 120V outlet and completely shut off the hot and cold water supply faucets located on your wall. Use a pair of channel locks or a wrench to unscrew the large plastic nuts connecting the fill hoses to the back of the washer. Keep a shallow bucket or towel handy to catch the residual water remaining in the hoses. Inspect the intake ports on the back of the machine. You will see small, circular plastic mesh screens recessed inside the valve openings. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers or a small pick, gently grip the edge of the mesh screen and pull it straight out. Be careful not to tear the mesh or damage the plastic housing of the valve. Place the screens in a small bowl of white vinegar for 30 minutes to dissolve mineral scale. Use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub away any remaining grit or sand. Rinse the screens under high-pressure tap water to ensure they are clear. Reinsert the cleaned screens firmly into the valve ports. Reconnect the hoses, ensuring the rubber washers are seated correctly to prevent leaks. Tighten the nuts firmly but avoid over-tightening, which can crack the plastic threads. Turn the water supply back on and run a "Quick Wash" cycle to verify the fill speed. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Home Supply Valves: Ensure the wall faucets are turned fully to the "open" position. Sometimes a partially closed valve or a failing washer inside the wall faucet restricts flow before the water even reaches the machine. Inspect the Fill Hoses: If you are using old rubber hoses, they can internally collapse or develop "kinks" that restrict flow. Replace old hoses with braided stainless steel hoses to eliminate internal collapse and prevent future bursts. Replace the Water Inlet Valve Assembly: If the screens are clean but the flow is still weak, the internal solenoid or the diaphragm inside the valve assembly (Part #WH01X22413 or similar depending on the specific build date) has likely failed. This requires removing the top panel of the machine and replacing the entire dual-valve manifold. Verify Water Pressure: If other fixtures in the house have low pressure, the issue is with your home's plumbing or the pressure regulator. The GTW685BSLWS requires a minimum of 20 PSI to operate the valves efficiently. HEADS UP Avoid Over-tightening: The inlet valve housings are plastic. Using a heavy-duty wrench to overtighten the hose connections can cause the plastic to hairline crack, leading to a flood. Annual Maintenance: If you live in an area with "hard water" (high mineral content), clean these screens every 12 months to prevent the machine from timing out during the fill cycle. Leak Check: After cleaning the screens and reconnecting hoses, run the machine for 5 minutes while watching the connections with a flashlight to ensure there are no slow drips. Avoid Chemical Cleaners: Do not use harsh acids or bleach to clean the mesh screens, as this can degrade the nylon mesh and allow sediment to flow directly into the machine's internal plumbing.

Question 2

the washer is off balance every single load, it thumps and stops during spin.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The thumping and premature stopping during the spin cycle on your GE GTW685BSLWS is typically caused by an "Out of Balance" (OOB) condition. This occurs when the centrifugal force of the spinning tub exceeds the capacity of the suspension system to stabilize it. When the load is unevenly distributed, the tub oscillates violently, hitting the cabinet walls, which triggers the internal sensors to halt the cycle to prevent catastrophic mechanical failure. You can confirm if this is a loading issue or a mechanical failure by performing a "bounce test." Open the lid and press down firmly on the tub. If the tub bounces more than once or two before settling, your suspension rods have lost their dampening tension. If the tub feels rigid and snaps back into place immediately, the issue is likely related to how you are loading the machine or a leveling problem with the chassis. FIX To resolve loading imbalances and stabilize the machine, follow these precise steps: Redistribute the Load: Open the lid and manually move heavy items (like jeans or towels) to opposite sides of the wash plate. Ensure that large items are not clumped together. For a single heavy item like a king-size comforter, add 2-3 bath towels to the opposite side of the tub to act as a counterweight. Verify Leveling: Place a bubble level on the top surface of the washer. If the bubble is not centered, rotate the adjustable leveling legs at the bottom front of the machine. Turn the legs clockwise to lower the machine and counter-clockwise to raise it until the chassis is perfectly level from front-to-back and side-to-side. Lock the Legs: Once level, tighten the locking nuts on the leveling legs against the cabinet frame to ensure they don't vibrate loose during high-RPM spins. Clear the Tub: Ensure no clothing items are caught between the inner wash basket and the outer tub, as this creates an artificial imbalance that the sensors will detect as a heavy load. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Suspension Rods: If the bounce test failed, the suspension rods (springs) are worn out. You will need to remove the top console and the top panel to access the four rods holding the tub. Replace all four rods as a set, even if only one looks stretched, to ensure uniform tension across the tub. Inspect the Drive Belt: A slipping or frayed drive belt can cause the tub to spin inconsistently, which the machine interprets as an imbalance. Check for black rubber dust (belt shavings) at the bottom of the cabinet; if found, replace the belt to ensure consistent torque. Check the Tub Spring Clips: Inspect the clips that secure the tub to the suspension rods. If a clip has popped off or bent, the tub will hang crookedly, causing it to thump regardless of how the clothes are loaded. Calibrate the Load Sensor: In rare cases, the electronic load sensor may be malfunctioning. Unplug the machine for 10 minutes to hard-reset the control board, then run an empty "Rinse and Spin" cycle to see if the tub remains centered. HEADS UP Avoid "Over-Stuffing": Never pack clothes tightly into the tub. The clothes need room to move and "bloom" during the agitation phase to ensure they distribute evenly before the spin cycle begins. Separate Heavy Fabrics: Do not wash heavy rugs or weighted blankets with lightweight t-shirts. The massive difference in water absorption creates a "pendulum effect" that frequently triggers the OOB error. Floor Stability: Ensure the washer is sitting on a solid, non-flexing surface. If the machine is on old plywood or thin linoleum, the floor may be flexing under the weight, causing the machine to tilt during the spin. Regular Cleaning: Check the bottom of the tub for coins or bra wires. A foreign object lodged under the wash plate can cause an uneven spin that mimics a balance problem.

Question 3

why does my ge top load washer smell like mildew, i just cleaned it with affresh last week.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS> The GE GTW685BSLWS is a high-efficiency (HE) top-load washer designed to use significantly less water than traditional machines. While Affresh tablets are effective for removing mineral buildup and some surface biofilm, they often fail to reach "dead zones" where stagnant water collects. The primary cause of the mildew smell is the accumulation of a "scrud" layer—a waxy mixture of undissolved fabric softener, detergent residue, and skin cells—that clings to the outer tub (the area you cannot see) and the underside of the agitator. Because this model uses a deep-fill option but often defaults to lower water levels, the rinse cycle may not fully flush out the thick residue left by heavy-duty detergents or liquid softeners. This residue traps moisture against the metal and plastic components, creating a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew. If you smell a damp, sour odor even after a cleaning cycle, it confirms that the biofilm has penetrated the outer tub's crevices or the drain pump filter area, which a standard chemical tablet cannot fully penetrate. FIX> To fully eliminate the odor and strip the biofilm from the machine, follow this deep-cleaning protocol: Manual Dispenser Purge: Remove the detergent and fabric softener dispenser drawer completely. Use a toothbrush and a mixture of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water to scrub the housing where the drawer slides in. This area often hides a thick layer of black mold that tablets cannot reach. Agitator Inspection: While the GTW685BSLWS has a fixed agitator, debris often collects at the very bottom of the tub beneath the agitator vanes. Manually scrub the bottom of the wash tub with a nylon brush and a bleach solution. High-Heat Bleach Cycle: Set the machine to the "Heavy Duty" cycle with the "Deep Fill" option selected to ensure the maximum amount of water is used. Set the temperature to "Hot." Add 1 cup of liquid chlorine bleach (5.25% concentration) directly into the bleach dispenser. Do not add detergent or vinegar, as mixing these with bleach can create toxic fumes or neutralize the cleaning agent. The "Double Rinse" Method: After the bleach cycle completes, run one additional "Rinse and Spin" cycle with no chemicals. This ensures no bleach residue remains to damage your clothes in the next load. Air-Dry Protocol: Immediately after the final spin, wipe down the top rim of the tub and leave the lid wide open for at least 4 hours to allow the internal drum to fully dehydrate. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK> Check the Drain Pump Filter: If the smell persists, there may be a trapped piece of clothing or a "slug" of lint in the drain hose or pump. While this model doesn't have a front-access filter like European machines, check the external drain hose for kinks or standing water that could be siphoning odors back into the tub. Switch to Powder Detergent: Liquid detergents and fabric softeners are the primary contributors to biofilm. Switch to a high-quality powder detergent for 30 days. Powder is more abrasive and helps "scrub" the outer tub during every wash, preventing the buildup that causes the smell. Reduce Detergent Volume: Over-sudsing is a common culprit. If you see bubbles remaining in the tub after the rinse cycle, you are using too much detergent. Reduce your dose to 2 tablespoons per load; HE machines require far less soap than users realize. Vinegar Shock Treatment: If bleach didn't work, the mold may be alkaline-resistant. Run a hot cycle with 4 cups of white distilled vinegar. Note: Never do this immediately after bleach; run a clear water cycle in between to avoid creating chlorine gas. HEADS UP> Stop using liquid fabric softener: These are oil-based and act as "glue" for mold. Use white vinegar in the softener compartment instead; it softens clothes and kills mildew without leaving a residue. Lid Position: Never close the lid immediately after a load. The GTW685BSLWS creates a humid microclimate that accelerates mold growth. Keep the lid open until the drum is bone-dry to the touch. Avoid "Quick Wash" Overuse: Frequent use of the Quick Wash cycle doesn't provide enough water or time to fully flush out detergents. Use the "Heavy Duty" or "Deep Fill" setting once a week to flush the system. Wipe the Rim: Use a microfiber cloth to wipe the top edge of the tub where the lid meets the machine. This area collects moisture and detergent splashes that can seep back into the drum.

Question 4

my washer won't drain at all, it's just full of water and humming.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The humming sound you hear is the drain pump motor energizing, but the impeller is physically unable to rotate. In the GE GTW685BSLWS, this is almost always caused by a "foreign object obstruction." Small items like coins, baby socks, or hair ties bypass the tub filter and lodge themselves directly into the pump housing, jamming the plastic vanes of the impeller. Because the motor is receiving power but cannot turn the shaft, it creates an electromagnetic hum and generates heat. If left powered on in this state for too long, the pump motor can overheat and burn out entirely. You can confirm this by observing the drain hose; if the pump is humming but there is zero vibration or water movement in the corrugated hose, the blockage is internal to the pump or located immediately at the pump exit. FIX To clear the obstruction and restore drainage, follow these precise steps. Be prepared for a significant amount of water to exit the machine once the pump is opened. Power Down: Unplug the washer from the 120V outlet to prevent electrical shock and avoid accidental cycle starts. Manual Drain: Since the tub is full, do not simply open the pump. Use a shallow pan or a wet/dry vacuum to remove as much water as possible from the tub to prevent a flood in your laundry room. Access the Pump: Tilt the machine back slightly (secure it with a wedge) or remove the lower front toe kick panel. Locate the drain pump assembly at the bottom right or center of the chassis. Clear the Hose: Squeeze the thick black corrugated hose leading from the tub to the pump. Feel for hard objects (like a coin or button). If you feel something, loosen the hose clamp using pliers, pull the hose down, and manually remove the debris. Inspect the Impeller: Locate the pump housing. If your specific sub-model has a removable filter cap, unscrew it counter-clockwise. Reach your finger into the pump cavity and attempt to rotate the impeller blades. They should flick or click in quarter-turns. If they are jammed, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to extract the debris. Test Run: Reassemble all clamps, plug the machine back in, and run a "Drain & Spin" cycle to verify the water exits the tub completely. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for a Kinked Standpipe: Inspect the external drain hose where it enters the wall standpipe. If the hose is pushed too far down into the pipe (more than 6-8 inches), it can create a siphon effect or a vacuum lock that prevents the pump from pushing water out, resulting in a humming sound as the pump struggles against backpressure. Test the Pump Motor: If there is no debris but the pump still only hums, the motor windings may have failed. Use a multimeter to check the pump for continuity. If the circuit is open or the resistance is infinite, the pump assembly (Part #WH01X series) must be replaced entirely. Inspect the Lid Switch: While the humming suggests the pump is getting power, a faulty lid switch can sometimes cause intermittent drainage issues. Ensure the lid is closing fully and the switch is clicking; if the machine thinks the lid is open, it may cut power to the motor mid-cycle. Check for Tub-to-Pump Blockage: Remove the large bellows hose connecting the outer tub to the pump. Sometimes a small garment (like a sock) gets sucked into the hose itself, creating a "plug" that allows the pump to hum but prevents any water from actually reaching the impeller. HEADS UP Avoid Overloading: Overloading the GTW685BSLWS can cause clothes to shift violently, potentially forcing small items through the gaps in the agitator or tub, leading to pump clogs. Pocket Check: Always empty pockets of coins, screws, and hairpins. These are the primary killers of top-load drain pumps. Leveling: Ensure your machine is perfectly level. An unbalanced tub can put undue stress on the drain hose connections, leading to leaks or premature wear of the pump housing. Water Temperature: If you frequently wash with very high temperatures and heavy detergents, lint can build up into a "sludge" in the pump. Run a monthly cleaning cycle with a dedicated washer cleaner to keep the lines clear.

Question 5

the lid on my ge gtw685 won't lock, it just clicks and the light flashes, it won't start.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "clicking" sound combined with a flashing light indicates a Lid Lock Failure. This GE model uses a solenoid-driven locking mechanism that must engage and send a "locked" signal to the main control board before the cycle can begin. If the latch cannot physically move into the locked position, or if the sensor fails to detect the lock, the machine will enter a fail-safe mode and refuse to start to prevent injury or flooding. FIX Follow these steps to resolve the mechanical blockage or sensor error: Clear the Strike: Inspect the lid strike (the plastic hook on the lid) for cracks, bends, or accumulated detergent buildup. If the strike is misaligned, it won't enter the lock slot properly. Clear the Lock Slot: Use a flashlight to look inside the lock mechanism hole. Remove any lint, coins, or debris that may be preventing the locking pin from sliding into place. Reset the Control Board: Unplug the washer from the wall for 5 minutes. This clears the temporary memory and resets the locking sequence. Test the Latch: Close the lid firmly. If you hear the click but the light continues to flash, the internal solenoid in the lid lock assembly has likely failed and the entire lock assembly must be replaced. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the lock is physically clear but still fails, the issue is likely electrical: Check Wiring: Unplug the machine and remove the top console. Inspect the wiring harness leading to the lid lock for frayed wires or a loose connector. Replace the Lock Assembly: If the wiring is intact, replace the lid lock switch assembly. This is a common failure point on the GTW series. Inspect the Control Board: If a new lock doesn't fix the issue, the control board may have a blown relay and will require replacement. HEADS UP Do not attempt to bypass the lid lock by jumping wires. Modern GE boards require a specific sequence of "open" then "locked" signals; bypassing the switch will not trick the machine into starting and may permanently damage the main control board.

Question 6

i keep getting an su error code on my ge washer, it fills but then just stops.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "SU" error code on the GE GTW685BSLWS stands for "Suds" or "Suds Lock." This occurs when the machine's pressure sensor detects an abnormal amount of foam in the tub. When excessive suds are present, they create an air pocket or a "cushion" within the pressure tube, which tricks the control board into thinking the water level is inconsistent or that the tub is overflowing, triggering a safety pause to prevent suds from leaking out of the tub and into the internal electronics. This is most commonly caused by using non-HE (High Efficiency) detergent in a machine designed for HE soaps, or by overloading the detergent dosage. If you are using the correct soap, the issue may be caused by "detergent buildup" from previous cycles, where old soap residue has accumulated in the outer tub, causing a sudden spike in foam even with a small amount of new soap. You can confirm this by looking through the glass or opening the lid to see a thick layer of white foam resting on top of the water line. FIX To clear the SU error and rescue your load, follow these specific steps: Press the Start/Pause button to stop the current cycle. If the machine is unresponsive, press the Power button to turn it off completely. Open the lid and inspect the water level. If the foam is higher than 3 inches deep, use a plastic pitcher or a small bucket to manually bail out the soapy water until the foam level is significantly reduced. Wait approximately 30 to 60 minutes. This allows the air bubbles trapped in the pressure sensor hose to dissipate naturally, which is necessary for the sensor to reset. Close the lid and rotate the cycle selector knob to Rinse & Spin. Do not add any more detergent. Press Start. The machine will now attempt to flush the remaining soap from the tub and the pump. Once the cycle completes, run one "Clean Washer" cycle (or a hot water cycle with no clothes) to ensure all residual surfactant is removed from the outer tub walls. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Clear the Pressure Sensor Tube: If the SU code persists without visible suds, the pressure sensor hose (the small clear tube running from the tub to the control board) may be clogged with lint or a "soap plug." Disconnect the power, remove the top panel of the washer, and locate the thin plastic tube. Gently blow air back through the tube toward the tub to clear any obstructions that are mimicking a sudsing condition. Perform a Hard Reset: Unplug the washer from the 120V outlet for exactly 10 minutes. This clears the temporary memory of the main control board. While unplugged, press and hold the Start button for 5 seconds to discharge any remaining capacitors. Plug it back in and attempt a Drain & Spin cycle. Check the Drain Pump Filter: Debris trapped in the pump can slow down the drainage process, causing soapy water to linger and create foam. Inspect the pump area at the bottom of the machine for any clogs or foreign objects (like coins or socks) that are preventing the water from exiting rapidly. Deep Clean with Vinegar: If you suspect detergent buildup, fill the tub with the hottest water setting and add 2 cups of distilled white vinegar. Let it soak for two hours, then run a full cycle. The acid in the vinegar breaks down the alkaline soap scum that causes "phantom suds." HEADS UP Detergent Volume: For the GTW685BSLWS, never fill the detergent dispenser to the "Max" line. Use only 1 to 2 tablespoons of HE liquid detergent per load. Over-sudsing is the primary cause of pump failure and board corrosion. HE Only: Only use detergents with the "HE" logo. Standard detergents produce 10x more foam, which will inevitably trigger the SU code and can eventually leak into the motor housing. Load Balance: Avoid washing very small loads with high amounts of soap. The lack of fabric to absorb the agitation can lead to "whipping" the water into a foam, triggering the sensor. Avoid Fabric Softener Overuse: Excessive fabric softener can create a slimy film on the pressure sensor, leading to incorrect water level readings and false SU errors.

Question 7

why is my gt wash machine making a super loud grinding noise during the spin cycle?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A loud grinding noise during the spin cycle on your GE GTW685BSLWS typically indicates a physical obstruction interfering with the rotating components. The most common cause is a small, hard foreign object—such as a coin, key, bra underwire, or button—that has slipped past the agitator and become lodged between the spinning wash basket and the stationary center column (spin tube). This metal-on-plastic or metal-on-metal contact creates the grinding sound. FIX To remove a lodged object, follow these steps: Unplug the washer. Pry off the fabric softener dispenser (agitator cap) from the top of the agitator. Unscrew and lift off the plastic wash basket/agitator, exposing the stainless steel wash tub and the center column. Shine a flashlight down the center column and visually inspect the gap between it and the inner tub. Look for any debris. Use needle-nose pliers or a magnetic retrieval tool to carefully extract any object you find. Reassemble the basket and cap, and run a test cycle without laundry. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the noise persists, the issue may be mechanical wear or damage within the drive system. Next, check beneath the machine: Ensure the washer is unplugged and carefully tip it back (with help, as it's heavy). Inspect the large drive pulley and the motor coupling (a plastic piece connecting the motor to the transmission) for cracks or damage. Look for any frayed belts or items like socks or straps wrapped around the pulley or drum spindle. If components here are damaged, or if the grinding seems to come from the transmission itself, professional service is likely required. HEADS UP Consistently checking pockets before washing can prevent this issue. A persistent grinding noise, if ignored, can score the center column or damage the tub seal, leading to costly water leaks and more extensive repairs.

Question 8

my ge top loader just shows 'PF' on the display and won't do anything, what is that?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "PF" code on your GE GTW685BSLWS washer stands for "Power Failure." This indicates the machine's electronic control board detected a significant interruption or drop in household power while it was running. The washer enters this lockout state to prevent a potential unsafe restart or operation with unstable power. FIX To clear the code and reset the control board, follow these steps: Press the "Power" or "Cancel" button to turn the washer off. Unplug the washer's power cord from the wall outlet. Wait for at least 60 seconds (one full minute) to allow the control board to fully discharge. Firmly plug the washer back into the wall outlet. Press "Power" to turn the unit on. The PF code should now be gone. Reselect your desired cycle and options, then press "Start" to begin a new wash. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the PF code persists or returns immediately, the issue is likely with your home's electrical supply, not the washer. Check the specific circuit breaker for your laundry room at your home's main electrical panel and ensure it is fully in the ON position. Flip it OFF and then ON again to reset it. Test the wall outlet with another working appliance (like a lamp) to confirm it has power. Some laundry outlets are GFCI-protected; check for and reset any tripped GFCI outlet in the garage, bathroom, or nearby. Visually inspect the washer's power cord for any damage and ensure it is plugged in securely at both the washer and the wall. HEADS UP The washer's memory is cleared by the power failure, so you must restart your laundry cycle from the beginning. It cannot resume the interrupted cycle. If the PF code recurs frequently without a general home power outage, consult a qualified technician, as it could indicate a failing control board or a serious wiring issue in your home that requires professional diagnosis.

GE GTW685BSLWS Top Load Washing Machine

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