Question 1

can i run a hose from my honeywell tp50wkn directly to a floor drain? how does that work?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Absolutely, that's what the drain port on the back is for. It lets you run the unit continuously without having to empty the bucket. FIX Here's the straightforward process. 1) Get a standard 5/8" inner diameter garden hose. Don't use a smaller or larger hose; it won't seal right. 2) Make sure the rubber drain plug is removed from the circular port on the back. Keep this plug somewhere safe. 3) Push the hose connector firmly onto the drain port. It's a friction fit; there's no threading. Give it a gentle tug to make sure it's on snugly. 4) Run the hose to your floor drain, sink, or sump pump. The drain needs to be lower than the dehumidifier for gravity to work. 5) On the control panel, you must set the unit to "Continuous" mode. If you have it on a humidity setting (like 50%), it will still try to use the bucket. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If water isn't flowing, check for a kink in the hose. Also, ensure the hose path is a straight, downhill run. Even a small upward loop can create an airlock and stop drainage. Prime the hose by pouring a cup of water down it from the dehumidifier end to start the siphon. HEADS UP The bucket must be in place even when using the hose, or the unit won't run. The bucket's float switch is still part of the safety system. Also, occasionally check the hose connection for algae growth or debris, especially if you're running it long-term.

Question 2

water is leaking from the bottom of my dehumidifier, not from the bucket or the hose connection.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Water pooling under the unit usually means internal condensation is dripping where it shouldn't. This is often due to a blocked drain path inside or a misaligned drain pan. FIX Unplug the unit and get ready to look inside. 1) Remove the bucket. 2) Inspect the area where the bucket sits. You'll see a channel that leads to the drain port at the back. Clear any visible debris, dust bunnies, or even small insects from this channel. 3) Check the rubber drain plug at the back. If it's not seated perfectly, water can drip back along the casing. Remove it and reseat it firmly. 4) Tilt the unit gently side-to-side over a towel. If you hear water sloshing inside, there's a clog further in the internal drain pan. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The leak might be from a cracked internal drain pan or a disconnected hose inside the cabinet. This requires disassembly. Remove the rear cover (see the "dead control panel" fix for steps) and look for the white plastic internal condensate pan. Check for cracks and make sure the short hose that connects it to the rear port is attached securely. HEADS UP This leak is different from an overflowing bucket. If the bucket itself is full and the unit hasn't shut off, that's a faulty float switch. This leak is mechanical. Be thorough drying everything inside before plugging it back in after your inspection.

Question 3

the fan runs but it won't pull any water, humidity level doesn't budge. just bought it.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This sounds like the compressor isn't kicking on. The fan can run independently, but without the compressor cooling the coils, no condensation happens. FIX First, give it time. On first startup, especially in a moderately dry room, it can take a long time to show results. But let's check the basics. 1) Ensure the humidity setting is below the current room humidity. If you have it set to 60% and the room is at 55%, it won't activate the compressor. Set it to the lowest setting (like 35% or Continuous) as a test. 2) Listen closely when you first turn it on or change the setting. You should hear a distinct "click" and then a deeper hum starting about 3 minutes later. That's the compressor. If you don't hear that hum, the compressor isn't starting. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The unit might be in a protective delay. Unplug it from the wall for a full 5 minutes. This resets the internal electronics. Plug it back in, set it to Continuous mode, and listen for the compressor start-up sequence. If it still doesn't engage, there may be a fault in the start components, and a new unit might need to be exchanged. HEADS UP New units sometimes have shipping oil in the compressor that needs to settle. Letting it sit upright for 24 hours before first use is recommended. If you didn't do that, it could be a factor. Also, verify the room is actually humid enough (above 50% relative humidity) for a 50-pint unit to work effectively.

Question 4

the control panel on my honeywell dehumidifier is completely dead, no lights, won't turn on. checked the outlet.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This usually points to an internal fuse blowing, often from a power surge or a compressor startup issue. It's a common failure point on many dehumidifiers. FIX You'll need to access the internal control board. 1) Unplug the unit. 2) Remove all the screws from the back panel. You might also need to remove the bucket and take out a few screws hidden around the top and sides. 3) Carefully remove the rear cover. 4) Locate the control board. On this model, look for a small, clear cylindrical fuse holder soldered to the board. It often contains a 3 amp or 5 amp fuse. 5) Use a multimeter to test the fuse for continuity, or visually inspect it for a broken wire inside. 6) If blown, you must replace it with an identical fuse (same amperage and physical size). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Before reassembling, check all the wire connections on the control board are snug. Also, ensure the unit is plugged into a working outlet by testing it with another device. A tripped GFCI outlet in a basement or garage is a frequent culprit. HEADS UP This involves opening the unit. If you're not comfortable with basic electronics and safe disassembly, it's time to call a repair tech. Also, a blown fuse can be a symptom of a bigger problem with the compressor, so if the new fuse blows immediately, stop.

Question 5

how do i clean the filter on my tp50wkn? i can't figure out how to get it out.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The filter is behind the front grille, which doesn't intuitively pull off. It's a two-step process. FIX Here's how to do it. 1) Unplug the unit. Always start there. 2) Look at the top of the front grille. You'll see two small, recessed tabs. Press inward on both of these tabs at the same time. 3) While holding those tabs in, pull the top of the grille gently toward you. It will hinge out from the bottom. 4) The gray foam filter is right behind it. Lift it out by the top edge. 5) Wash it in lukewarm water with a mild detergent, rinse thoroughly, and let it air dry completely before putting it back. Slot it back in, then snap the grille closed. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the grille won't budge, double-check you're pressing the correct tabs. They're small and near the top corners. Don't force it; you could break the plastic clips. A flashlight can help you see them better. HEADS UP Never run the dehumidifier without the filter. And make sure it's bone-dry before reinstalling. A damp filter can grow mold and restrict airflow, causing performance issues.

Question 6

why does my honeywell 50-pint dehumidifier keep shutting off after like 10 minutes? the bucket is empty.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The unit is hitting its internal frost sensor. This happens when the coil gets too cold, usually in a cool room (below 65°F). It's a protective feature, not a fault. FIX You need to raise the room temperature or move the dehumidifier to a warmer space. 1) Make sure it's not in a basement corner or right next to an AC vent. 2) Try running a space heater in the same room for a little while to warm the ambient air. 3) You can also try lowering the fan speed to "Low" if you have it on "High," as this can sometimes reduce how aggressively it cools the coil. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the air filter. A completely clogged filter can restrict airflow so much that the coil freezes over quickly. Pull out the filter, wash it with warm water and mild soap if it's dirty, let it dry completely, and reinstall it. HEADS UP This is very common in early spring or late fall in basements. It doesn't mean the unit is broken. If the room is persistently too cold for it to run, you might need a dehumidifier specifically designed for low-temperature spaces.

Question 7

my honeywell tp50wkn dehumidifier is running but the bucket isn't filling up, what's wrong?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is almost always a condensate drain issue or a misaligned float switch. The unit is pulling moisture from the air, but the water is either draining out the back or the bucket sensor isn't recognizing that it should be filling. FIX First, check the back of the unit. There's a round drain port with a rubber plug. Make sure that rubber plug is pushed in all the way and sealed tight. If it's loose or missing, water will drain out there instead of into the bucket. Next, take the bucket out and check the little white float inside the bucket well. Make sure it moves up and down freely and isn't stuck by a bit of plastic flashing or debris. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The unit might be in Continuous mode. Check the control panel. If the "Continuous" light is on, the unit is set to run non-stop and drain out the back, bypassing the bucket. Press the Mode button to switch to a humidity setting (like 45%, 50%, etc.) so it will use the bucket again. HEADS UP If you're using the drain hose, remember the bucket won't fill. That's by design. Also, on first use, it can take several hours in a humid space before you see measurable water in the bucket.

Honeywell TP50WKN 50-Pint Dehumidifier

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