Question 1

the washer won't drain at all, just sits there with water in the tub at the end of the cycle.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A non-draining washer is typically caused by a clog in the drainage path. The usual suspect is a foreign object (sock, coin, hair tie) stuck in the drain pump filter or the pump itself. FIX Turn off the washer. Open the small service door on the front lower-left corner. Place a shallow pan and towels in front. Slowly unscrew the drain pump filter cap (it's lefty-loosey) to let residual water drain. Once empty, remove the filter entirely and check for debris. Reach inside the pump housing with your fingers (watch for sharp edges) to feel for any blockage. Clear it, reinsert the filter, screw the cap back on firmly. Run a drain/spin cycle. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the pump is clear, check the drain hose itself for a kink or obstruction. Disconnect it from the standpipe or sink and check for flow. If the pump hums but doesn't move water, the pump impeller may be broken or the pump motor failed. HEADS UP Always check pockets before washing. A single small item can disable your washer. If you have to tip the washer to access the drain pump area, be extremely cautious — they are very heavy and water-logged.

Question 2

a musty smell is coming from the washer even after i run cleaning cycles.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The smell is mold and mildew growing in hidden damp areas: primarily the rubber gasket/ring around the top of the drum (the "bellow") and in the dispenser drawer. Detergent and fabric softener residue traps moisture and feeds growth. FIX First, run the proprietary "Clean Tub" cycle with LG's own washer cleaner (or liquid chlorine bleach) — NOT vinegar. While it runs, pull out the detergent dispenser drawer. Wash it in warm soapy water, scrubbing all compartments. Dry thoroughly. Wipe the entire rubber gasket around the drum opening with a 10% bleach solution, paying attention to the inner folds. Leave the lid open after every wash to let the tub dry completely. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the smell persists, check the drain pump filter. A clogged filter can hold stagnant water. Locate the small access door on the front lower-left, place towels, open it, unscrew the cap slowly to drain residual water, and clean any debris from the filter. HEADS UP Using more detergent than recommended is the top contributor. HE washers need very little. Excess soap doesn't rinse out, creating a sticky, smelly residue. Stick to one or two tablespoons max.

Question 3

the control panel is totally dead, no lights, no response, but it's plugged in.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A completely dead panel points to a power supply issue, not a control board failure (yet). The most common cause is a tripped thermal fuse on the main power line, often due to a power surge or overheating. FIX Unplug the washer for a full 60 seconds. Plug it back in directly to a wall outlet, not a power strip or GFCI outlet. Listen carefully: you should hear a single, faint relay click from the control area. If there's still no life, check your household circuit breaker. If the breaker is fine, the thermal fuse or main power harness is likely blown. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If you heard the relay click but the panel stayed dead, the main control board or its power supply component has failed. This requires board replacement. HEADS UP LG washers are sensitive to power surges. Using a dedicated outlet and a high-quality surge protector (designed for large appliances) is a preventative must. A GFCI outlet that has tripped will also cause this—reset the GFCI button.

Question 4

i get an 'ie' error every time i try to run a cycle, water just trickles in.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS "IE" stands for "Inlet Error" — the washer isn't getting enough water within the expected time frame. The primary cause is restricted water flow, usually from clogged inlet screens or kinked hoses. FIX Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer. Disconnect the inlet hoses from the back of the machine (have towels ready). You'll see small mesh screens inside the washer's water valve ports. Use needle-nose pliers or tweezers to gently pull them out. Rinse them under water to remove mineral deposits and lint. Reinstall the screens, reconnect hoses, and ensure valves are fully open. Run a test cycle. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check that both supply valves are fully open and that the household water pressure is sufficient. Also, inspect the hoses themselves for kinks. If the screens were clear, the water inlet valve on the washer itself could be failing. HEADS UP Always use the supplied straight-through fill hoses, not old, rubber, coiled ones. Coiled hoses can restrict flow enough to trigger IE. And never run the washer with the water supply only partially open.

Question 5

after a wash, my clothes are sopping wet like the spin didn't work at all.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Inadequate spinning is almost always an unbalanced load. The washer's sensor detects an imbalance and drastically reduces spin speed (or skips it) to prevent damage and violent shaking. It prioritizes safety over dryness. FIX Redistribute the load manually. Pause the cycle, open the lid, and rearrange the clothes evenly around the wash plate. Avoid washing a single large, heavy item (like a blanket) by itself. Mix large and small items. Ensure you're not overloading—the clothes should freely tumble. Close the lid and press Start to resume. It should re-sense and spin properly. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the spin never engages even on small, balanced loads, the lid lock assembly (or "door switch") might be faulty. The machine won't spin if it doesn't detect the lid is securely closed and locked. You'll hear a distinct "click" at cycle start—if you don't, that's the culprit. HEADS UP An unbalanced load doesn't just give wet clothes; it causes the infamous "walking" or shaking. If your machine is moving violently, stop it immediately and redistribute. Letting it continue can damage the floor, the machine's suspension, and your sanity.

Question 6

the 'turbo wash' cycle takes forever, like over an hour, i thought it was supposed to be fast.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The TurboWash cycle time is adaptive. It adds time if it senses the load is very large, heavily soiled, or out of balance. Your machine is likely adding extra rinse and tumble time to compensate, which defeats the speed benefit. FIX First, never overload it. For TurboWash to hit its 30-39 minute claim, fill only to the second row of holes in the tub (about 3/4 full). Use the "Soil Level" button — set it to "Light" or "Normal," not "Heavy." Ensure the load is balanced as you load it; mix large and small items. Run a Clean Tub cycle monthly to ensure sensors aren't hampered by residue. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If times are excessively long on ALL cycles, check your cold water inlet pressure. Low pressure dramatically increases fill times, which the cycle won't skip. Ensure both hot and cold supply valves are fully open. HEADS UP The displayed time is always an estimate. It will count up if the cycle needs more time for rinsing or balancing. This is normal, but it shouldn't happen every single load if you're following the load guidelines.

Question 7

washer makes a horrible grinding noise during the spin cycle, sounds like metal on metal.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A severe grinding or scraping noise during spin points to the spider arm — the central component that holds the drum — being cracked or broken. On LG top loaders with the direct drive motor, this is a known failure point, especially if the unit is older or has seen heavy use. FIX Stop using it immediately. Continuing can cause catastrophic damage. You need to verify the spider arm. This requires disassembling the washer: unplug, drain water, remove the agitator and inner basket. Inspect the large, three-legged spider arm attached to the outer tub for cracks or breaks. If damaged, the entire outer tub assembly (which includes the spider arm) must be replaced. This is a major, expensive repair. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the spider arm looks intact, the noise could be a foreign object (like a bra underwire or coin) caught between the inner basket and outer tub. Tilt the washer back and check the gap visually or by feel. HEADS UP This is not a DIY fix for most people. The parts are heavy and the repair is complex. Getting a quote from a technician versus the cost/value of the washer is your next step.

Question 8

my lg top loader keeps saying 'le' on the display and won't start the cycle, what does that even mean?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's "LE" for "LEak" — your washer's leak sensor in the base has detected water where it shouldn't be. It's a safety lockout to prevent a flood. The cause is often just residual water from a previous small spill or over-sudsing, not an active leak. FIX First, unplug the washer immediately. Pull it away from the wall. Check the drain hose connection at the back and the water inlet hoses for any loose fittings or drips. Use towels to completely dry the floor and the inside of the washer base pan. Wait 30 minutes for any residual moisture to evaporate, then plug it back in. The error should clear. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If LE returns immediately after drying everything, the leak sensor itself in the base pan might be faulty or shorted. You'll need to access the sensor, which requires removing the cabinet. This is a repair call. HEADS UP Using high-efficiency (HE) detergent is non-negotiable with this machine. Regular detergent creates too many suds that can bubble out and trigger the leak sensor falsely.

LG WT7900HBA Top Load Washer with TurboWash

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