Question 1

the 'lo' pellet warning comes on way before my hopper is actually empty, is my sensor broken?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "LO" pellet warning on the Pit Boss Pro Series 1150 is triggered by a mechanical paddle switch located at the base of the hopper. This switch acts as a simple binary trigger: when pellets push the paddle down, the circuit is closed; when the paddle swings upward due to a lack of pellets, the circuit opens and triggers the alert. If you see this warning while the hopper still looks full, you are likely experiencing "bridging." This occurs when pellets clump together in a dome shape, leaving a void of air directly around the sensor paddle even though there are pounds of fuel remaining above the gap. Alternatively, the issue may be mechanical interference. Small fragments of sawdust, broken pellet shards, or moisture-swollen pellets can wedge themselves between the paddle arm and the hopper wall. This prevents the paddle from returning to its "full" position or causes it to flutter, sending inconsistent signals to the control board. You can confirm this by looking closely at the paddle; if it isn't resting flat against the side of the hopper when pellets are present, the sensor is obstructed. FIX To resolve a false "LO" reading, you must clear the bridge and ensure the mechanical arm has a full range of motion. Follow these steps precisely: Power down the grill and unplug it from the wall outlet to prevent any accidental auger activation while your hand is in the hopper. Remove the hopper lid and use a long, thin wooden dowel or a sturdy coat hanger. Gently poke the pellets starting from the center and moving outward toward the edges to break any bridges or "domes" of pellets. Locate the black plastic paddle switch near the bottom of the hopper. Reach in and manually push the paddle arm up and down several times. It should snap back into place with a distinct mechanical feel. Inspect the area around the pivot point of the paddle. If you see any "pellet dust" or clumps of sawdust, use a vacuum or compressed air to clear the debris from the hinge. Refill the hopper with fresh, high-quality pellets and shake the hopper slightly to ensure the fuel settles evenly around the sensor. Plug the grill back in and power it on. The "LO" warning should disappear immediately once the pellets weigh down the paddle. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Wire Chafing: The wiring harness leading from the paddle switch to the main control board can sometimes rub against the metal frame of the Pro Series 1150. Inspect the wires for any exposed copper or pinch points. If the wire is frayed, the circuit may be breaking intermittently, triggering the "LO" light regardless of pellet levels. Use electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing to seal any nicks. Clean the Sensor Contact: If you have used pellets with high oil content or have experienced moisture ingress, a film of grime can build up on the switch. Use a contact cleaner spray (like QD Electronic Cleaner) directly into the pivot mechanism of the paddle to remove oxidation and debris. Test the Control Board Logic: Perform a hard reset of the electronics. Unplug the unit for 10 full minutes to drain the capacitors on the control board. This clears any "ghost" errors in the memory that might be keeping the "LO" warning active even after the physical sensor has been fixed. Replace the Paddle Assembly: If the internal spring of the paddle switch has snapped or the plastic arm is warped, the sensor will fail to trigger. You will need to remove the hopper assembly and replace the pellet level sensor switch. Ensure the replacement part matches the Pro Series 1150 specifications to avoid voltage mismatches. HEADS UP Avoid "Over-Packing": Do not force pellets down into the hopper with a tool. Over-compressing the fuel can lead to severe bridging or, worse, put too much pressure on the auger motor, causing it to overheat. Storage is Key: Always store your pellets in a sealed, airtight container. Pellets that absorb moisture expand and become "sticky," which is the primary cause of paddle sensors getting stuck. Regular Stirring: Every few long cooks, give the hopper a gentle shake or stir the top layer of pellets to prevent the formation of bridges before they trigger the sensor. Vacuum the Base: Periodically vacuum out the bottom of the hopper where the auger meets the pellet bin. Accumulated sawdust here can interfere with the sensor's movement.

Question 2

grease is leaking from the bottom of my grill cabinet, not going into the bucket. where's it coming from?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The leak is occurring because the grease management system is failing to channel runoff into the collection bucket, causing it to pool in the cook chamber and overflow through the seams of the chassis. On the Pit Boss Pro Series 1150, this typically happens due to "grease dams"—accumulations of carbonized food debris and solidified fats that block the narrow drainage channel. When this happens, the grease doesn't just sit still; it finds the path of least resistance, which is usually the gap between the heat deflector/cook chamber and the lower cabinet shell, leading to those frustrating drips on your patio. Another common cause is a misalignment of the grease tray or a failure of the seal where the tray meets the drain hole. If the tray has shifted slightly during a cleaning session or if the bucket is overfilled, the grease will bypass the collection point entirely. To confirm this, look at the bottom of the cook chamber (above the tray); if you see a thick layer of standing oil or "sludge" instead of a clean slope toward the drain, you have a blockage. If the tray is empty but the cabinet is leaking, the leak is occurring upstream of the tray. FIX To stop the leak, you must clear the drainage path and reset the collection system. Follow these steps precisely: Power down the grill and allow it to cool completely. Remove the grill grates and the heat deflector plate to gain full access to the bottom of the cook chamber. Slide out the grease collection tray and remove the grease bucket. Inspect the tray for any warping or bends that might be preventing it from sitting flush against the drain port. Locate the drain hole at the rear of the cook chamber. Use a heavy-duty pipe cleaner or a 1/8-inch steel wire to poke through the drain hole. Push the wire firmly to break through any solidified "fat plugs" that have formed in the narrow channel. Using a degreaser or a mixture of warm water and dish soap, scrub the slope of the cook chamber floor. Ensure there are no charred food remnants creating a dam that diverts grease away from the hole. Reinsert the grease tray, ensuring it is pushed completely to the back of the unit. Confirm that the tray's intake aligns perfectly with the drain hole. Insert a fresh, empty grease bucket and verify that there is a clear, unobstructed path from the cook chamber, through the tray, and into the bucket. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the chassis seams for gaps. If the leak persists despite a clear drain, the sealant between the cook chamber and the cabinet may have degraded. Apply a high-temperature RTV silicone sealant (rated for at least 500°F) to the exterior seams where the cook chamber meets the lower cabinet to plug any structural leaks. Inspect the heat deflector for "pooling." If the deflector plate is slightly warped or not seated correctly, grease can pool in the center and overflow the sides of the chamber rather than flowing toward the rear drain. Ensure the plate is level and seated firmly on its supports. Verify the bucket seal. If you are using a third-party bucket or if the original bucket is cracked, grease may be leaking from the bucket itself rather than the grill. Replace the bucket with a genuine Pit Boss replacement part to ensure a vacuum-tight fit. Deep clean the "drip zone" using a pressure washer or a steam cleaner. Sometimes a layer of hardened carbon builds up under the tray that cannot be reached by a wire, effectively creating a new floor that diverts grease toward the cabinet walls. HEADS UP Empty the grease bucket every 3-5 cooks. An overfilled bucket causes grease to back up into the tray, which is the primary cause of cabinet leaks. Avoid using aluminum foil to line the bottom of the cook chamber. While it makes cleanup easier, foil often blocks the drain hole entirely, forcing grease to leak through the chassis. Perform a "burn-off" at 450°F for 15 minutes after heavy fatty cooks (like brisket or ribs) to liquefy any remaining grease in the channels, allowing it to flow into the bucket before it solidifies. Check the tray alignment every time you change the bucket; a 1/4-inch shift in the tray's position is enough to cause a significant leak.

Question 3

my wifi keeps disconnecting from the pit boss app, have to reconnect every time i want to use it.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The intermittent connectivity on the Pit Boss Pro Series 1150 is typically caused by "signal attenuation" or a DHCP lease expiration. Because the controller is housed in a heavy-gauge steel chassis, the internal Wi-Fi antenna suffers from significant interference. If your router is located inside the house and the grill is on a patio, the signal must penetrate multiple exterior walls and the grill's own metal housing, leading to a weak RSSI (Received Signal Strength Indicator) value. When the signal drops below a certain threshold, the controller loses its handshake with the Pit Boss cloud server. Furthermore, many modern routers use "band steering," which attempts to push devices between 2.4GHz and 5GHz frequencies. The Pro Series 1150 controller only supports 2.4GHz. When the router tries to force the grill onto the 5GHz band, the connection drops instantly. To confirm this is the issue, check the Wi-Fi icon on the controller; if it flickers or disappears while you are standing next to the grill, the hardware is failing to maintain a stable IP lease from your router. FIX To resolve the connection drops and stabilize the link, follow these precise steps to isolate the frequency and refresh the hardware handshake: Access your router's admin panel via a web browser (usually 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1). Navigate to Wireless Settings and disable "Smart Connect" or "Band Steering." This allows you to give the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands different names (SSIDs). Name the 2.4GHz band something specific, like "PitBoss_WiFi." On the Pro Series 1150 controller, press and hold the Wi-Fi button for approximately 10-15 seconds. The Wi-Fi indicator light will begin to flash rapidly, indicating it is in Pairing Mode. Open the Pit Boss app on your smartphone. Ensure your phone is connected to the newly renamed 2.4GHz network. Select "Add Device" and follow the prompts. When asked for the password, ensure there are no special characters (like ! or @) if possible, as some older firmware versions on the 1150 controllers struggle with complex symbols. Once connected, move the grill at least 12 inches away from any metal siding or brick walls to reduce signal bounce-back. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Install a dedicated 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Range Extender. Plug the extender into an outdoor-rated outlet or a garage outlet closest to the grill. Connect the grill to the extender's signal rather than the main house router to reduce the number of walls the signal must penetrate. Perform a Hard Power Cycle. Unplug the grill from the wall outlet for a full 5 minutes. This clears the temporary cache in the controller's network chip and forces a new DHCP request from the router, which often fixes "ghost" connections where the app says it's connected but the grill isn't responding. Assign a Static IP address to the grill. In your router settings, find the MAC address of the Pit Boss controller and assign it a permanent IP. This prevents the connection from dropping every time the router refreshes its lease table. Check for physical antenna interference. If you have added aftermarket accessories or heavy-duty covers that wrap tightly around the control panel, remove them. The antenna is located behind the plastic faceplate; blocking this with metallic foils or heavy vinyl can kill the signal. HEADS UP Avoid using "Guest Networks" for your grill; these often have timeout settings that will kick the grill off the network every 24 hours. Keep your grill's power cord plugged into a surge protector. Power spikes can occasionally corrupt the Wi-Fi module's firmware, requiring a factory reset. If you upgrade your router to a Wi-Fi 6 model, ensure "Legacy Mode" is enabled, as the Pro Series 1150 uses older 802.11b/g standards. Always update the Pit Boss app to the latest version from the App Store or Google Play, as connectivity patches are frequently released to improve cloud stability.

Question 4

the auger on my pit boss is making a loud grinding noise and now it won't feed pellets.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The loud grinding noise followed by a failure to feed pellets in the Pit Boss Pro Series 1150 typically indicates a mechanical obstruction or a failure of the drive coupling. The most common cause is "pellet bridging" or "clumping," where moisture enters the hopper, causing the wood pellets to swell and fuse into a rock-hard mass. This mass creates immense resistance that the auger motor cannot overcome, resulting in a loud humming or grinding sound as the motor strains against the jam. Alternatively, the grinding noise may be the sound of the motor spinning while the auger remains stationary. This happens when the shear pin—a small, sacrificial piece of metal designed to break to protect the motor from burnout—has snapped. If you hear the motor running but no pellets are moving and there is no physical blockage, the drive connection between the motor and the auger shaft has been severed. You can confirm this by removing the hopper and attempting to turn the auger manually; if it spins freely without any resistance from the motor, the shear pin is gone. FIX To clear a jam and restore pellet flow, follow these precise steps: Disconnect the grill from the power source immediately to prevent the motor from overheating or burning out. Remove all remaining pellets from the hopper using a shop vacuum. Ensure you vacuum deep into the throat of the auger intake to remove any swollen pellets. Locate the auger access point. On the Pro Series 1150, you will need to remove the hopper assembly by unscrewing the mounting bolts. Inspect the auger flighting for foreign objects, such as small stones or metal fragments that may have been mixed into the pellet bag. If the pellets are clumped, do not force the motor. Use a heavy-duty flathead screwdriver or a metal pick to manually break up the hardened pellet mass inside the tube. If the auger is stuck, use a socket wrench on the auger shaft nut. Gently rotate the shaft counter-clockwise (backward) to relieve the pressure of the jam. Do this in small increments, then forward, until the obstruction is cleared. Once clear, manually rotate the auger one full turn to ensure it moves smoothly through the entire tube to the fire pot. Reinstall the hopper and plug the unit back in to test the feed cycle. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Shear Pin: If the motor is running but the auger isn't turning, the shear pin has failed. Remove the motor housing and locate the small pin connecting the motor gear to the auger shaft. Remove the broken fragments using needle-nose pliers and install a new replacement pin of the exact same diameter and material. Do not use a nail or a bolt, as these are too strong and will cause the motor to burn out the next time a jam occurs. Test the Auger Motor: If there is no sound at all and no movement, the motor may have failed. Use a multimeter to check for 120V AC power at the motor terminals when the grill is in "Startup" or "P-Set" mode. If power is reaching the motor but it isn't turning, the motor internal windings are blown and the entire motor assembly must be replaced. Clear the Fire Pot Bridge: Sometimes the jam isn't in the hopper, but at the exit point. Remove the fire pot and check for a "pellet volcano" where unburnt pellets have backed up into the auger exit. Clear this area completely with a vacuum and a wire brush. Check the Control Board: If the motor intermittently grinds or stutters, the control board may be sending inconsistent voltage. Inspect the wiring harness for any melted insulation or loose connections caused by the heat of the grill. HEADS UP Store Pellets in Airtight Containers: Never leave your pellet bag open to the air. Even moderate humidity can cause pellets to swell, which is the primary cause of auger jams on the Pro Series 1150. Avoid "Cheap" Pellets: Low-quality pellets often contain "fines" (sawdust) or contaminants like small pebbles that can wedge into the auger flighting and snap the shear pin. Run the Grill Regularly: If the grill sits idle for months, pellets in the auger tube can settle and harden. Run a short burn cycle every few weeks to keep the mechanism moving. Vacuum the Fire Pot: Every 5-10 cooks, remove the fire pot and vacuum out the ash. Ash buildup can restrict the flow of pellets, causing them to back up into the auger.

Question 5

i get huge temperature swings, like 100 degrees over my set point, on my 1150. how do i fix that?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The temperature swings on the Pit Boss Pro Series 1150 are typically caused by "carbon crusting" on the RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) probe. The probe is a thermistor that measures electrical resistance to determine heat; when a layer of carbonized grease and ash builds up on the metal rod, it creates an insulating barrier. This causes the probe to lag, reporting a lower temperature than the actual air in the barrel. The controller then continues to feed pellets and crank the induction fan, leading to a massive overshoot—often 100°F or more—before the probe finally registers the heat and shuts down the auger. Additionally, this issue can be exacerbated by ash accumulation in the fire pot or a partial blockage in the airflow paths. If the ash buildup is significant, the pellets don't burn evenly, creating "hot spots" that confuse the sensor. You can confirm this is a probe issue if you notice the grill temperature climbing steadily past your set point without the auger stopping, or if the temperature fluctuates wildly (e.g., jumping from 225°F to 325°F in a matter of minutes) despite no changes to the settings. FIX To resolve temperature instability, you must restore the thermal conductivity of the RTD probe and clear the combustion chamber. Follow these steps precisely: Completely power down the grill and unplug it from the wall outlet to ensure the auger does not accidentally engage during cleaning. Remove the cooking grates and the heat diffuser (the heavy metal plate above the fire pot). Locate the RTD probe. This is the small, silver metal rod protruding from the left side wall of the firebox. Using a fine-grit scouring pad, a piece of 400-grit sandpaper, or a small piece of fine steel wool, gently scrub the silver rod. Remove all blackened carbon deposits and grease until the metal is bright and shiny. Do not use heavy pressure, as bending the probe can damage the internal sensor. Using a shop vacuum with a narrow nozzle attachment, thoroughly vacuum out the fire pot. Ensure you remove all clumps of unburnt pellets and ash from the bottom of the pot and the surrounding area. Vacuum the area around the induction fan (located beneath the hopper) to ensure maximum airflow into the combustion chamber. Reinstall the heat diffuser and grates, then plug the unit back in and run a test cycle at 225°F to calibrate. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the RTD probe connection. Locate the wiring harness behind the control panel and ensure the probe plug is seated firmly and is not corroded. A loose connection creates electrical resistance that the controller interprets as a temperature change, causing the "swing" effect. Inspect the auger drive for "pellet bridging." If pellets are clumped in the hopper, the auger may be intermittently jamming and then releasing a large surge of pellets into the pot, causing sudden spikes in heat. Clear the hopper and ensure you are using high-quality, dry pellets. Verify the seal of the lid. If the gasket is worn or if the lid does not seat firmly against the barrel, cold air leaks can trick the probe into thinking the grill is colder than it is, causing the controller to overcompensate. Replace the RTD probe entirely. If the internal sensor has drifted due to heat fatigue, scrubbing will not fix it. Order a replacement Pro Series RTD sensor and swap it out, ensuring the new probe is positioned exactly where the factory original was located. HEADS UP Clean the RTD probe every 3 to 5 cooks. Carbon buildup is inevitable, and regular maintenance prevents the "overshoot" phenomenon. Always vacuum the fire pot after every single use. Ash buildup restricts oxygen flow and is the primary cause of erratic temperature behavior. Avoid using "cheap" pellets with high sawdust content, as these produce significantly more ash and clumping, which clogs the fire pot faster. Never use a wire brush on the RTD probe; use only fine abrasives to avoid scratching the sensor housing.

Question 6

why is my pit boss producing almost no smoke even on the 'smoke' setting? it's just hot.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The 'Smoke' setting runs the auger on a very slow, intermittent feed. If it's running too hot, the controller's P-setting (feed rate) might be incorrectly calibrated from the factory. FIX Manually adjust the P-setting. With the grill OFF, hold the 'Prime' button and turn the knob to 'Smoke'. Release 'Prime'. The display will show 'P-0' to 'P-9'. Turn the knob to 'P-7' (a slower feed for more smoke), then press any button to save. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK You might be using poor-quality pellets that burn too cleanly/hotly. Switch to 100% hardwood pellets with no filler oils. Also, ensure your grill is on a level surface so the pellet feed is consistent. HEADS UP Pellet grills produce the most smoke at lower temperatures (180°F-250°F). On 'Smoke' mode, don't expect billowing smoke—it should be a thin, blue, consistent stream.

Question 7

the fan on my pro series 1150 is running nonstop even when it's turned off, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS No, it's not normal. This is almost always a failed control board that's not cutting power to the fan circuit after shutdown. FIX You need to replace the control board. Unplug the grill, remove the four screws on the front panel to access the board, disconnect the wiring harnesses, and swap in the new unit. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If a new board doesn't fix it, the issue could be a stuck relay on the newer Wi-Fi-enabled controller. A full power cycle (unplug for 30 seconds) sometimes resets it temporarily, but a permanent fix still requires a controller replacement. HEADS UP Don't just leave it plugged in with the fan running—it will drain the battery if you're using the optional battery pack and indicates an electrical fault.

Question 8

my new pit boss 1150 just keeps saying 'err' on the screen and won't heat up, what's wrong?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The controller is seeing a problem with the temperature probe or auger system during startup. The 'ERR' code is a general failure alert. FIX Turn the grill OFF using the power switch and unplug it from the outlet. Wait 5 minutes. Open the hopper lid and check for a jam. Manually clear any packed or bridging pellets from the auger intake. Plug the grill back in and turn it on to see if it starts normally. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The RTD (temperature probe) might be faulty or disconnected. Unplug the grill, remove the grates and heat diffuser, and locate the probe on the left side of the cook chamber. Ensure the wire connector is firmly plugged into the back of the control board. HEADS UP A very common first-time mistake is not letting the initial startup cycle finish—it can take 5+ minutes to go from 'IGN' to your set temperature. Don't turn it off during this phase.

Pit Boss Pro Series 1150 Pellet Grill

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