Question 1

the picture looks really dark and washed out in hdr mode on netflix and disney+, standard mode is fine.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "washed out" and dark appearance on the Roku Select Series 4K TV occurs because this specific model lacks a local dimming array and has a limited peak brightness (nits) compared to high-end HDR displays. When Netflix or Disney+ triggers an HDR10 or HLG signal, the TV switches to a dedicated HDR picture profile. Because the hardware cannot actually reach the high brightness levels requested by the HDR metadata, the image appears "flat," with crushed blacks and a lack of punch in the highlights. This is further exacerbated by the "Dynamic Contrast" and "Auto Brightness" settings, which often overcompensate for the low peak brightness by aggressively dimming the entire panel to maintain a perceived contrast ratio. You can confirm this is a software/profile issue if the image looks vibrant in Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) but immediately shifts to a greyish, dim tone the moment the "HDR" badge appears in the top right corner of the screen during a movie intro. FIX To resolve this, you must tune the HDR-specific profile while the HDR content is actively playing, as Roku TVs store separate settings for SDR and HDR. Launch Netflix or Disney+ and start an HDR-enabled title (e.g., a 4K Nature documentary or a Marvel movie). Once the HDR signal is active, press the Star (*) button on your Roku remote. Navigate to Picture Settings. Change the Picture Mode to "Vivid" or "Bright". Avoid "Eco" or "Standard" in HDR mode, as these heavily cap the backlight. Set Backlight to 100. This is the most critical step; HDR requires maximum lamp output to compensate for the dimming effect of the HDR filter. Set Brightness to 50. Increasing this further will wash out the blacks; decreasing it will cause "black crush" where detail in shadows disappears. Set Contrast to 90-100 to push the peak white levels higher. Navigate to Advanced Picture Settings and disable "Auto Brightness". This prevents the TV from dimming the screen based on the room's ambient light, which often triggers incorrectly during dark HDR scenes. Disable "Noise Reduction" and "Content Refresh Rate" to prevent the processor from adding a "soap opera effect" or blurring the fine detail of the 4K signal. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Toggle HDR in the App Settings: Some versions of the Netflix app on Roku have a "Playback" setting. Ensure the quality is set to "High" and that the device is not defaulting to a lower-bitrate stream that mimics HDR but lacks the proper metadata. Check HDMI Cable Bandwidth: If you are using an external device (like a Shield TV or Apple TV) instead of the built-in Roku apps, ensure you are using a Premium High Speed HDMI cable (18Gbps). A lower-rated cable can cause "handshake" issues where the TV thinks it is in HDR mode but cannot receive the full color depth, resulting in a greyish tint. Disable "Energy Saving" Mode: Go to the main Roku Home screen > Settings > System > Power > Fast Roku Start. Ensure this is enabled, and then go to Settings > Picture and ensure "Energy Saving" is completely Off. This global setting often overrides individual HDR picture profiles. Factory Reset the Picture Settings: If you have tweaked settings over time, the HDR profile may be corrupted. Go to Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Factory reset. This clears the cache and resets the HDR mapping to the factory baseline, allowing you to apply the "Fix" steps from a clean slate. HEADS UP HDR Limitation: Be aware that the Select Series is an entry-level 4K panel. It cannot produce "True HDR" like a QD-OLED or Mini-LED; you are optimizing the image to look its best within the hardware's physical limits. Ambient Light: Because this panel lacks high peak brightness, HDR content will look significantly washed out in a bright room. For the best experience, dim your lights or close curtains to improve the perceived contrast. Update Firmware: Always check for system updates in Settings > System > Software update. Roku frequently releases "HDR Tone Mapping" updates that improve how the TV handles bright highlights in Disney+ and Netflix content.

Question 2

how do i clean the screen on this thing without damaging it? the microfiber cloth just smears it.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "smearing" effect you are experiencing on your Roku TV 43" Select Series is caused by the accumulation of skin oils (sebum), airborne grease, and static-charged dust particles that have bonded to the screen's anti-reflective coating. When you use a dry microfiber cloth, you aren't removing these oils; you are simply redistributing them across the surface, creating streaks that are highly visible when the backlight is on. Because the Select Series uses a plastic-based polarizer and a specific chemical coating to reduce glare, using a dry cloth on a heavily soiled screen can actually cause "micro-marring." These are tiny scratches created when dust particles are pressed and dragged across the surface. To confirm the cause, look at the screen under a bright flashlight while the TV is off; if you see iridescent "rainbow" swirls, you are dealing with an oil buildup that requires a solvent—specifically a mild polar solvent like distilled water—to break the surface tension and lift the grime. FIX To clean the display without stripping the protective coating or causing permanent streaks, follow this precise sequence: Power down the TV and unplug it from the wall outlet. Cleaning a warm screen can cause the liquid to evaporate too quickly, leaving behind mineral streaks. Obtain two high-density, lint-free microfiber cloths (preferably the "flat weave" type used for eyeglasses). Avoid terry-cloth or paper towels, as these contain abrasive fibers. Use distilled water. Tap water contains calcium and magnesium that leave white "spotting" on the 4K panel once dry. Lightly dampen the first cloth. The cloth should be moist to the touch, but not dripping. If you squeeze it and water drops fall, it is too wet. Never spray liquid directly onto the screen, as gravity pulls the fluid into the bottom bezel (the "bezel leak"), which can short out the LED driver board. Wipe the screen using long, slow, horizontal or vertical strokes. Do not use circular motions, as this concentrates the oils in the center of the screen. Apply almost zero pressure; let the moisture do the work. Immediately follow the damp pass with the second, completely dry microfiber cloth. Buff the area gently to remove any remaining moisture before it air-dries. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK For stubborn grease or fingerprints: Create a solution of 50% distilled water and 50% white distilled vinegar. Dampen the cloth with this mixture. The acetic acid in the vinegar breaks down lipids (oils) that water alone cannot move. Use the same "damp then dry" technique described above. For "sticky" residue: If there is a sticky substance (like food or adhesive) on the panel, do not scrub. Apply a tiny amount of the vinegar solution to a cotton swab and hold it against the spot for 30 seconds to soften the residue, then gently lift it away with a clean microfiber cloth. For deep-seated dust in the bezel: Use a can of compressed air or a soft-bristled makeup brush to clear the gap between the screen and the plastic frame. If dust settles in this crevice, it often migrates back onto the screen during the cleaning process, causing new streaks. HEADS UP NEVER use Windex, glass cleaner, or anything containing ammonia or alcohol. These chemicals will permanently dissolve the anti-reflective layer of the Roku Select Series screen, leaving "cloudy" patches that cannot be repaired. Avoid "Screen Cleaning Wipes" from big-box stores. Many of these contain undisclosed detergents or alcohols that can cause the plastic screen to yellow or crack over time. Check your pressure. The 4K panel is a "sandwich" of layers. Pressing too hard on a single spot can cause "pixel bruising" or permanent dark spots where the liquid crystals have been crushed. Maintenance: To prevent buildup, dust the TV weekly with a dry, clean microfiber cloth while the TV is off to prevent dust from bonding with oils.

Question 3

there's a weird high-pitched buzzing sound coming from the back of the tv, even when it's off.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The high-pitched buzzing or "whining" sound emanating from the rear of your Roku TV 43-inch Select Series is a phenomenon known as coil whine. This occurs within the Switch Mode Power Supply (SMPS) board. Specifically, the electricity passing through the inductors and transformers creates a magnetic field that causes the copper wire coils to vibrate physically. When these vibrations happen at a frequency audible to the human ear, you hear a piercing, high-pitched drone. Because this is a "Smart" TV, the unit is never truly "off" when plugged in; it remains in a standby state to listen for the remote control signal and maintain network connectivity. This constant trickle of current keeps the power board active, which is why the noise persists even when the screen is dark. You can confirm this is coil whine by placing your ear near the bottom-left or bottom-right rear vents; the sound will be most intense near the power input section of the internal chassis. If the pitch changes slightly when you wake the TV from standby, it confirms the noise is tied to the voltage load on the capacitors and inductors. FIX While coil whine is often a hardware characteristic, you can frequently mitigate the intensity by stabilizing the electrical input and resetting the power rail. Follow these exact steps: Perform a Hard Power Cycle: Unplug the TV from the wall outlet completely. While it is unplugged, press and hold the physical power button on the TV chassis for 30 seconds to drain the remaining charge from the capacitors on the power board. Bypass Power Strips: Disconnect the TV from any surge protectors, power strips, or extension cords. These devices can introduce electrical noise or "dirty power" that exacerbates coil vibration. Plug the TV directly into a grounded 120V AC wall outlet. Isolate the Circuit: If possible, plug the TV into a different circuit in your home. High-draw appliances (like a refrigerator or space heater) on the same circuit can cause voltage fluctuations that trigger the buzzing. Disable Fast Boot/Quick Start: Navigate to Settings > System > Power. If your specific firmware version allows for a "Deep Sleep" or "Energy Saving" mode, enable it to reduce the current draw during standby. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the noise persists after stabilizing the power source, you are dealing with a physical resonance issue that cannot be fixed via software. Try these alternatives: Relocate the TV: Move the TV 2-3 inches further away from the wall. When the TV is pushed tight against a wall, the wall acts as a sounding board, amplifying the high-frequency vibrations and making the buzz seem louder than it actually is. Check for Interference: Move any wireless routers, baby monitors, or high-powered speakers at least 3 feet away from the back of the TV. Electromagnetic interference (EMI) from other devices can occasionally excite the coils in the power supply, increasing the audible whine. Apply Dielectric Silicone: For advanced users comfortable opening the chassis (and who have voided their warranty), the noise is caused by a loose coil winding. Applying a small bead of non-conductive, high-temperature electronic-grade silicone glue to the vibrating inductor on the power board can dampen the physical vibration and silence the noise. Replace the Power Board: If the noise is accompanied by a flickering screen or the TV failing to wake from standby, the inductor may be failing. Replace the internal power supply board (Part number varies by production date, check the sticker on the board itself) to resolve the issue permanently. HEADS UP Safety Warning: Never open the back panel of the TV while it is plugged in. The capacitors on the power board hold a lethal electrical charge even after the unit is unplugged. Warranty Note: Opening the chassis to apply dampening glue or replace boards will void your manufacturer warranty. If the TV is under a year old, contact support for a replacement. Normal Operation: In most cases, coil whine is a cosmetic annoyance and does not indicate that the TV is about to fail or that there is a fire hazard. Power Quality: If you live in an area with frequent brownouts or voltage spikes, consider a high-quality Pure Sine Wave UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) to clean the incoming current.

Question 4

the wifi keeps disconnecting on my roku tv, have to reboot to get it back, my other devices are fine.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is a common issue with Roku TVs, often caused by a combination of factors. While a failing internal WiFi adapter is possible, it's more frequently due to signal interference, a congested WiFi channel, or a software glitch that causes the TV's network stack to freeze. The fact that your other devices are fine points to a problem localized to the TV's hardware or its interaction with your specific network. FIX Start with a full network reset on the TV. Go to Settings > System > Power > System restart. After it reboots, go to Settings > Network > Set up connection > Wireless. Re-enter your WiFi password. If the problem persists, log into your router's admin page and change the 2.4GHz band to channel 1, 6, or 11, as these have the least overlap. On the TV, also set a static DNS: in Settings > Network, select your network, then "Advanced settings," and change DNS to manual, entering 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The most reliable solution is to bypass the internal WiFi. Purchase the official Roku Ethernet adapter (model A-3J-1T or compatible for your TV) and connect it to an open port on your router. For a wireless fix, try moving your router at least 3-4 feet away from the TV and any large metal objects. As a last resort, perform a factory reset on the TV (Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Factory reset), which can clear deep software corruption. HEADS UP The placement of your router is critical. Never position it directly behind the TV cabinet or immediately next to large speakers, soundbars, or surge protectors, as the TV's metal shield and electronics create a significant dead zone for WiFi signals.

Question 5

i get this 'insufficient memory' error when trying to add a new channel, how do i clear space?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "insufficient memory" error on the Roku TV 43-inch Select Series occurs because this specific model utilizes a very limited amount of onboard eMMC flash storage. Unlike a computer or smartphone, Roku TVs do not have a user-accessible hard drive; instead, the OS, system firmware, and installed channels all compete for a small partition of non-volatile memory. When you attempt to install a new channel, the system checks if there is enough contiguous block space to write the application data. If the storage is fragmented or nearly full, the installation fails immediately. This issue is typically caused by "bloat" from cached data within high-bandwidth apps like YouTube, Netflix, and Hulu, as well as the accumulation of multiple "Private Channels" or legacy apps that are no longer supported but still occupy space. Because the Select Series is an entry-level 4K model, its memory overhead is tighter than the Premiere or Plus series, making it prone to this error even if you only have a handful of apps installed. You can confirm the storage bottleneck by attempting to install a very small, lightweight utility app; if that also fails, your system partition is critically full. FIX To resolve this, you must perform a deep system purge and manually prune unnecessary applications. Follow these exact steps: Navigate to the Home screen and move to Settings. Select System, then Power, and choose System restart. This is critical because it flushes the volatile RAM and clears temporary cached files that may be locking storage blocks. Once the TV reboots, go back to Settings > System > Storage. Note the current available space. If it is under 100MB, you must delete apps. Return to the Home screen and highlight a channel you rarely use. Press the Star (*) button on your remote to open the options menu. Select Remove channel and confirm the deletion. Repeat this for at least 2-3 apps to create a buffer. Perform a System Update by going to Settings > System > System update. Sometimes a pending firmware update can clear out old system logs that are eating space. Attempt to install your new channel again. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The "App Cycle" Method: Some apps leave "ghost" data behind. To force a cache clear, uninstall the largest app you have (like Disney+ or HBO Max), restart the TV via the Power menu, and then reinstall the app. This forces the OS to rewrite the app's directory and often recovers fragmented space. Disable Automatic Updates: If your storage is borderline, the TV may be failing to install a channel because it is simultaneously downloading a system update in the background. Go to Settings > System > System update and ensure no updates are currently pending or stuck in a download loop. Factory Reset (The Nuclear Option): If you have deleted apps and still see the error, the file system may be corrupted. Go to Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Factory reset. Select Factory reset. This wipes the eMMC partition entirely and restores the original factory allocation of space. Check for Private Channels: If you have installed any "Developer" or "Private" channels via the web interface, these often bypass standard storage reporting and can clog the system. Remove these via the Roku account web portal if they don't appear in the TV's standard app list. HEADS UP Avoid Overloading: The Select Series is not designed for dozens of apps. Keep your installed channel count under 15 to prevent system lag and memory errors. Power Cycle Regularly: Unplugging the TV from the wall for 30 seconds once a month is more effective than a software restart for clearing deep-level system cache. Avoid Third-Party Launchers: Do not attempt to install custom skins or launchers, as these consume significant background memory and can trigger the "insufficient memory" error during OS updates. Firmware Priority: Always prioritize system updates over app installations; a newer OS version often includes storage optimization patches.

Question 6

tv keeps restarting on its own every 10-15 minutes, stuck in a loop.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This restart loop is typically caused by a software corruption from a recent update, a hardware overheating issue due to blocked ventilation, or a failing power supply. Less commonly, it can indicate a deeper hardware fault like a failing eMMC storage chip on the main board. FIX Start with a full power cycle and cooling period. Unplug the TV's power cord from the wall outlet for at least 2 minutes. This fully resets the hardware. While unplugged, inspect and clear any dust from the ventilation slots on the back and sides of the TV. Ensure the TV is not in an enclosed cabinet. Plug the power cord directly into a known-good wall outlet, avoiding power strips or surge protectors for this test. Turn the TV on and observe. If the issue persists, proceed to a software reset: Go to Settings > System > Power and perform a System restart. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the restart loop continues, you need to reinstall the TV's operating software. Perform a factory reset. Navigate to Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Factory reset and follow the prompts. This erases all accounts, apps, and settings. If you cannot access the menu, try a hardware factory reset: With the TV unplugged, press and hold the physical reset button (if present, often a pinhole on the back) or the mute button on the TV itself. While holding it, plug the TV back in and continue holding for about 20 seconds until the reset screen appears. After the reset, set up the TV minimally without logging into all your apps immediately to test stability. HEADS UP If the TV consistently restarts during the factory reset process or immediately after, the eMMC flash memory chip on the main board has likely failed. This is a component-level repair requiring a main board replacement, which should be done by a qualified technician.

Question 7

the roku remote just stopped working, no lights when i press buttons, fresh batteries didn't fix it.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Since fresh batteries did not resolve the issue and there are no indicator lights, the remote is likely suffering from a power delivery failure, a crashed internal processor, or a complete loss of pairing synchronization with the TV's Bluetooth/IR receiver. FIX Perform a hard power cycle and a forced re-pairing sequence to reset the connection: Unplug the Roku TV from the wall outlet and wait a full 60 seconds to clear the system cache. While the TV is unplugged, remove the batteries from the remote. Plug the TV back into the power source and wait for the home screen to appear. Reinsert the batteries into the remote. If your remote has a pairing button (located inside the battery compartment or on the back), press and hold it for 5 seconds until the status light flashes. Point the remote directly at the TV's IR receiver (bottom bezel) and press the Home button repeatedly. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the remote remains unresponsive with no lights, try these alternatives: Check Battery Terminals: Inspect the metal contact tabs inside the remote. If they look flat or compressed, use a small screwdriver or toothpick to gently bend them upward to ensure a tight connection with the batteries. Use the Roku Mobile App: Download the official Roku app on your smartphone. Ensure your phone is on the same Wi-Fi network as the TV to use the app as a fully functional remote. Hardware Replacement: If the remote shows no lights even after terminal adjustment, the internal circuit has failed. Purchase an official Roku Voice Remote. Avoid generic "universal" remotes, as they often lack the specific 4K Select Series shortcuts and voice functionality. HEADS UP Be careful not to over-bend the battery contacts, as snapping the metal tabs will permanently disable the remote and require a full replacement.

Question 8

my roku tv screen is just black but i can hear the sound from the show playing, what's going on?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The TV has a picture processing issue, most commonly a failed backlight system. The sound plays because the main board and streaming components are working, but the LEDs that illuminate the LCD panel are not turning on. Less often, the issue can be a fault on the T-Con (Timing Control) board or a loose internal cable. FIX First, perform a power cycle to reset the hardware. Unplug the TV from the wall outlet. Find and press the physical power button on the TV itself (often on the bottom or rear) and hold it for 20 seconds while it's unplugged. Release the button, plug the TV back in, and turn it on with the remote. If the screen remains dark, shine a bright flashlight at an angle on the screen in a dark room. If you can faintly see a menu or image, the backlights are definitively dead. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If no faint image is visible even with a flashlight, the problem may be with the T-Con board or its connections. This requires opening the TV's back panel. Carefully check that the ribbon cables connecting the T-Con board to the mainboard and the LCD panel are securely seated. A damaged T-Con board would need replacement. If the backlights are confirmed dead, the LED strips behind the LCD panel must be replaced, which is an advanced repair. HEADS UP Replacing the backlights involves removing the extremely fragile LCD panel and diffuser sheets. Any pressure, flexing, or a single crack will permanently ruin the screen. Diagnosing internal boards is safe, but the actual backlight repair is best left to a professional technician.

Roku TV 43 inch Select Series 4K Smart TV

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