Question 1

the third rack on top doesn't seem to get anything clean, glasses come out spotted or still dirty

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Samsung Bespoke DW80B7070AP features a specialized third rack designed for cutlery and small espresso cups, but its position makes it highly susceptible to "spray shielding." Because the third rack sits directly above the middle rack, any oversized plate, tall mixing bowl, or large platter placed in the middle rack creates a physical barrier. This prevents the water jets from the middle spray arm from reaching the third rack and, more critically, can physically obstruct the rotation of the upper spray arm, leaving entire sections of the top rack untouched by water. Furthermore, this model often suffers from "hard water spotting" specifically on the top rack because the detergent pods may not dissolve quickly enough to reach the upper cavity during the initial wash cycle, or the rinse aid dispenser is not calibrated for the increased height of the Bespoke tub. If you see a "film" or white spots on the glassware in the third rack while the bottom plates are clean, it is typically a chemical delivery issue rather than a mechanical failure. If the glasses are physically dirty (food residue), it is almost always a mechanical blockage or a clogged spray nozzle in the upper arm assembly. FIX To resolve cleaning failures in the third rack, follow these precise steps to ensure mechanical clearance and hydraulic flow: Clear the Middle Rack: Open the dishwasher and remove all items from the middle rack. Ensure no plates are protruding upward and no tall items are placed in the center-rear area. This is the "dead zone" where most spray arm collisions occur. Inspect the Upper Spray Arm: Reach in and manually spin the spray arm located directly beneath the third rack. It should rotate 360 degrees without any resistance. If it catches, check for fallen silverware or plastic lids that have slipped through the rack gaps. Deep Clean the Nozzles: Remove the upper spray arm by twisting the locking nut counter-clockwise. Inspect the small holes (nozzles) along the arm. Use a thin sewing needle or a 0.5mm toothpick to clear any calcium deposits or food debris from each individual hole. Verify Water Distribution: Run a "Quick" cycle without dishes. Open the door mid-cycle (during the wash phase) and check if the upper arm is spinning and spraying. If the arm is stationary, the water manifold is likely clogged. Optimize Loading: When reloading, place only low-profile items (espresso cups, flat cutlery) in the third rack. Ensure the third rack is pushed fully back until it clicks into the guide rails; if it is slightly skewed, it can block the spray arm's path. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Calibrate the Rinse Aid: The Bespoke series requires a higher rinse aid setting for the top rack to prevent spotting. Locate the rinse aid dispenser on the door; turn the dial to level 4 or 5. If you are using "All-in-One" pods, you still need liquid rinse aid to ensure water sheets off the glasses in the highest rack. Switch to High-Temp Wash: Select the "Sani-Wash" or "High Temp" option. The third rack is furthest from the heating element; increasing the water temperature helps the detergent penetrate the upper cavity more effectively. Check the Diverter Valve: If the upper arm has zero pressure, the diverter valve (which switches water between the bottom and top arms) may be stuck. Perform a hard reset by unplugging the unit for 10 minutes, then restart it using the "Heavy" cycle to force a full pressure flush. Address Hard Water Scaling: If you live in a hard water area, the small nozzles in the upper arm can scale over. Soak the removed spray arm in a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and warm water for two hours to dissolve mineral buildup. HEADS UP Avoid "Over-Stuffing": Never stack items in the third rack so high that they touch the ceiling of the tub; this disrupts the airflow and water circulation patterns. Pod Placement: Always use the dedicated detergent dispenser. Do not throw pods onto the bottom rack, as they may not dissolve fast enough to provide cleaning power to the top rack during the first 10 minutes of the cycle. Regular Arm Maintenance: Every 30 days, manually check the upper spray arm for debris. A single seed or piece of plastic can stop the arm from rotating, leaving your glasses dirty. Loading Geometry: Always place the largest plates on the outer edges of the middle rack to leave a clear "column" of space for the water to travel upward to the third rack.

Question 2

i get an 'e1' or 'e3' error code on the display after it runs for a few minutes

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The E1 and E3 error codes on the Samsung Bespoke AutoRelease DW80B7070AP indicate a failure in the water management cycle, specifically regarding the timing of filling and draining. An E1 error triggers when the pressure sensor detects that the tub has not reached the required water level within a predetermined timeframe (usually 60 seconds). This is typically caused by a restriction in the water inlet path or a failure in the water inlet valve, preventing the machine from filling fast enough to satisfy the control board's timing window. An E3 error occurs when the dishwasher fails to drain the water completely or detects a blockage during the drain cycle. Because this model features the AutoRelease door, the machine is particularly sensitive to drainage levels; if water remains in the sump, the system will halt the cycle to prevent leakage when the door automatically pops open. You can confirm these issues by checking the bottom of the tub: if E1 occurs, the tub will be dry or barely filled; if E3 occurs, you will likely see standing water around the filter assembly after the cycle aborts. FIX Follow these specific steps to resolve the water flow and drainage issues: Clear the Inlet Path (For E1): Turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Disconnect the braided steel inlet hose from the back of the dishwasher. Inspect the small mesh filter screen located inside the dishwasher's water inlet valve port. Use a needle or a small brush to remove sediment or calcium buildup from this screen. Reconnect the hose and ensure the valve is turned fully counter-clockwise to the open position. Inspect for Kinks: Pull the dishwasher out slightly to ensure the inlet hose is not pinched against the cabinetry or kinked, which restricts Gallons Per Minute (GPM) flow. Clean the Filtration System (For E3): Rotate the cylindrical filter assembly counter-clockwise and lift it out of the tub. Remove the coarse filter and the micro-filter. Scrub both with a soft brush and warm soapy water to remove grease and food debris. Reach into the sump area with a flashlight to ensure no hard objects (like broken glass or plastic ties) are obstructing the drain pump impeller. Verify the High Loop: Ensure the corrugated drain hose is looped higher than the dishwasher's outlet before connecting to the garbage disposal or sink drain. If the hose is flat on the floor, gravity will pull dirty water back into the tub, triggering an E3 error. Secure the hose to the underside of the countertop using a zip-tie or mounting bracket. Clear the Disposal Connection: If the dishwasher drains into a garbage disposal, ensure the disposal is clear of debris and that the knockout plug was removed during installation. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Water Inlet Valve: If the E1 error persists despite a clear filter, the solenoid in the inlet valve (Part No: DC97-XXXXX) may have failed electrically. Test the valve for continuity using a multimeter; if the coil is open, the valve must be replaced to allow water to enter the machine. Inspect the Drain Pump: For E3 errors, the drain pump may be mechanically seized or the motor may have burnt out. Remove the bottom kickplate and inspect the pump for leaks or humming sounds without movement. If the pump doesn't spin when the drain cycle starts, replace the pump assembly. Check the Pressure Switch/Sensor: The pressure sensor may be clogged with soap scum or debris, sending a false "empty" or "full" signal to the board. Locate the pressure tube and ensure it is clear of obstructions and that the sensor is clicking properly. Hard Reset the Control Board: Power the unit off at the circuit breaker for exactly 10 minutes. This clears the volatile memory of the control board and can sometimes reset a "ghost" E3 error caused by a momentary sensor glitch. HEADS UP Use High-Efficiency Detergent: Only use pods or powders specifically labeled for automatic dishwashers. Using standard soap creates excessive suds, which can trick the pressure sensor into triggering an E3 error. Monthly Filter Maintenance: To prevent E3 errors, clean the micro-filter every 30 days. Grease buildup on the mesh can slow drainage enough to trigger the timer. Check Your Water Pressure: This model requires a minimum of 20 PSI to operate the inlet valve correctly. If you have a low-pressure home system, you may experience intermittent E1 codes. Avoid Overloading: Overcrowding the bottom rack can block the spray arms, causing water to pool in areas that trigger sensor errors.

Question 3

the control panel is completely dead, no lights, no response, but i can hear a faint hum from inside

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The presence of a faint hum combined with a completely dark control panel indicates that the appliance is receiving line voltage, but the logic circuit is failing to initiate the boot sequence. The hum you hear is typically the water inlet valve or the drain pump attempting to engage due to a "ghost" voltage leak or a stuck relay on the main control board. Because the Bespoke AutoRelease series uses a sophisticated capacitive touch interface, any disruption in the communication bridge between the Main PCB (Power Control Board) and the UI (User Interface) board will result in a dead panel. This state usually occurs because of a "soft lock" in the microprocessor or a physical failure in the ribbon cable connection. If the unit experienced a minor power surge, the board may have entered a protective state where it refuses to power the LEDs to prevent further damage, even while the high-voltage side of the board is still feeding power to the internal components. You can confirm this by attempting to open the door; if the AutoRelease mechanism does not trigger and the panel remains dark, the failure is localized to the control logic rather than a complete loss of house power. FIX To resolve a frozen logic board or a loose connection on the DW80B7070AP, follow these precise steps: Perform a Hard Power Reset: Locate your home's electrical breaker panel. Switch the dishwasher circuit breaker to the OFF position. Leave it off for exactly 10 full minutes. This allows the capacitors on the main PCB to fully discharge, clearing any corrupted temporary memory states. Inspect the Junction Box: Remove the lower kick plate (toe kick) by unscrewing the two Phillips head screws at the bottom. Locate the electrical junction box on the right-hand side. Open the cover and inspect the wire nuts. Tug gently on the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires to ensure they haven't vibrated loose. Tighten any loose connections with a screwdriver. Reseat the UI Ribbon Cable: Power down the unit again. Remove the top panel of the dishwasher by removing the screws along the back and sides. Locate the thin multi-pin ribbon cable connecting the top display to the main control board. Gently unplug the cable, inspect the gold pins for any signs of corrosion or burning, and firmly snap it back into place. Restore Power: Flip the breaker back to ON and press the Power button firmly for 3 seconds to see if the LEDs initialize. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Main Control PCB: If the hum persists but the panel is dead, the main board has likely suffered a capacitor failure. Order the specific Samsung replacement PCB for the DW80B7070 series. Ensure you transfer any existing jumpers from the old board to the new one to maintain the correct regional settings. Test the UI Board: If the main board is replaced and the hum is gone but the lights are still off, the User Interface (UI) board is faulty. This board handles the touch sensitivity and LED output. Check for any moisture ingress around the top of the door seal, as steam can sometimes leak into the panel and short the UI board. Verify the Door Latch Switch: A faulty door switch can prevent the control panel from booting as a safety precaution. Use a multimeter to check for continuity across the door switch terminals. If the switch is open while the door is closed, the board will not send power to the display. Check for Interference: Ensure no high-wattage appliances (like a microwave or air fryer) are running on the same circuit. Voltage drops can cause the Bespoke's sensitive electronics to fail to boot, resulting in the "hum but no light" symptom. HEADS UP Avoid using "Quick Start" or "Express" cycles repeatedly if you notice the panel flickering, as this can put undue stress on the UI board's voltage regulator. Always use a dedicated 15-amp or 20-amp circuit for this model; sharing a circuit with other heavy kitchen appliances can lead to the logic board failures described above. If you find moisture inside the top panel during inspection, wipe it dry and check the gasket seal around the top of the dishwasher tub to prevent future short circuits. Never attempt to bypass the door switch to "force" the panel to turn on, as this can lead to accidental flooding if the pump activates without the door being securely latched.

Question 4

the wifi keeps disconnecting on my smart dishwasher, i have to keep re-adding it in the app

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Samsung Bespoke AutoRelease DW80B7070AP utilizes a compact Wi-Fi module tucked behind the control panel, which is shielded by a thick stainless steel chassis and often obstructed by the cabinetry and plumbing of your kitchen. This creates a "Faraday cage" effect, significantly attenuating the signal. When the signal strength (RSSI) drops below a certain threshold, the dishwasher's network interface card (NIC) drops the connection to prevent packet loss, causing the SmartThings app to report the device as offline. This issue is frequently exacerbated by "Band Steering" on modern mesh routers. The dishwasher only supports the 2.4GHz band. If your router attempts to force the device onto the 5GHz band or switches channels dynamically, the DW80B7070AP cannot hand off the connection seamlessly and will disconnect. You can confirm this by checking the "Device Status" in the SmartThings app; if the device disappears entirely rather than just showing "Offline," the module has likely crashed or lost its IP lease from the DHCP server. FIX To stabilize the connection, you must clear the cached network credentials and force a fresh handshake with a dedicated 2.4GHz signal. Open the SmartThings app on your smartphone, navigate to the dishwasher, select the three-dot menu in the top right, and choose "Remove Device." Power cycle the dishwasher by flipping the dedicated circuit breaker in your home's electrical panel OFF for 60 seconds, then flipping it back ON. This clears the volatile memory of the Wi-Fi module. At the dishwasher control panel, press and hold the "Heated Dry" and "Delay Start" buttons simultaneously for exactly 10 seconds. You will hear a confirmation beep and the display will indicate it is in pairing mode. Access your router settings via a web browser and temporarily disable "Smart Connect" or "Band Steering." Create a separate SSID specifically for 2.4GHz devices (e.g., "Home_Wifi_2G"). Ensure your smartphone is connected to this 2.4GHz network. Stand directly in front of the dishwasher door to minimize interference during the initial handshake. In the SmartThings app, select "Add Device" and follow the prompts to reconnect the DW80B7070AP to the dedicated 2.4GHz SSID. Once connected, re-enable your 5GHz band for your other devices. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Install a Wi-Fi Range Extender or a Mesh Node within 10 feet of the dishwasher. Placing a node on the opposite side of the kitchen wall can provide a stronger line-of-sight signal to the dishwasher's internal antenna, reducing the RSSI drop-off. Assign a Static IP address to the dishwasher through your router's DHCP reservation table. Use the dishwasher's MAC address (found on the sticker inside the door frame) to ensure the router doesn't reassign the IP address every few days, which often triggers a disconnect in the SmartThings ecosystem. Change your router's 2.4GHz channel from "Auto" to a fixed channel, specifically 1, 6, or 11. These are non-overlapping channels; if your neighbors are all on channel 6, switching to channel 1 can eliminate the signal noise that causes the Bespoke module to drop. Check for electromagnetic interference. Ensure that high-powered appliances (like a microwave or a large air fryer) are not positioned directly between the router and the dishwasher, as these can disrupt the 2.4GHz frequency during operation. HEADS UP Avoid using special characters or spaces in your Wi-Fi SSID or password, as the Samsung Wi-Fi module can struggle to parse non-alphanumeric characters, leading to intermittent authentication failures. Keep your SmartThings app and the dishwasher's firmware updated. Samsung frequently releases "OTA" (Over-The-Air) updates that specifically improve the stability of the network module. If the dishwasher consistently disconnects after a power surge, the Wi-Fi module may be failing. Check for any signs of moisture or corrosion around the top control panel area. Remember that the "AutoRelease" door feature relies on a stable connection for remote triggering; if the Wi-Fi is unstable, the door may not open automatically at the end of the cycle via app command.

Question 5

dishes are still wet and soapy at the end of the cycle, like it didn't rinse or drain properly

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The presence of soapy residue and standing water on the dishes in the Samsung Bespoke DW80B7070AP indicates a failure in the evacuation phase of the wash cycle. Specifically, the unit is suffering from "backflow" or "incomplete drainage," where dirty, sudsy water remains in the sump area. When the machine attempts the final rinse, it is recirculating a mixture of old detergent and food particles instead of drawing in fresh, clean water. This is often caused by a restriction in the fluid path, preventing the drain pump from pushing water out against the gravity of the drain line. To confirm this, open the door immediately after the cycle ends and remove the bottom rack. Look at the sump area (where the filter sits). If you see a pool of cloudy water or a layer of white foam, the drain system is compromised. Additionally, if you notice the "LC" (Leakage Check) error code on the display, the machine has detected water in the base pan, which often triggers an automatic drain sequence that may be failing due to a blockage. FIX Follow these precise steps to clear the drainage path and restore rinse performance: Clean the Triple-Filter Assembly: Rotate the cylindrical coarse filter counter-clockwise to unlock it and lift it out. Remove the fine mesh screen and the micro-filter. Use a soft brush and warm soapy water to scrub away the biofilm and grease. Inspect the sump hole for any hard debris (like broken glass or plastic ties) that may be jamming the impeller. Verify the High Loop: Open the cabinet under your sink. Locate the corrugated drain hose. Ensure the hose rises higher than the entry point of the sink drain or garbage disposal (the "high loop"). If the hose sags, gravity allows dirty water from the sink to flow back into the dishwasher, leaving soap residue on your dishes. Use a zip-tie or a mounting bracket to secure the hose to the underside of the countertop. Clear the Garbage Disposal Port: If your dishwasher drains into a disposal, remove the dishwasher hose clamp and pull the hose off the disposal nipple. Use a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to clear any solidified food debris from the disposal's inlet port. Perform a Forced Drain: Close the door and select the "Cancel" button or the "Drain" option (depending on your specific control panel layout) to run a dedicated 60-second pump cycle. Listen for a sharp, mechanical humming sound; if it sounds like it's grinding, there is still a foreign object in the pump. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Drain Pump Impeller: If the filter is clean but water remains, the drain pump (located at the bottom of the unit) may be obstructed. You will need to access the pump from the bottom of the chassis. Check for a "stuck" impeller—often a small piece of bone or a fruit pit wedges itself between the impeller blade and the housing, preventing the motor from spinning. Check for Air Locks: If the unit was recently installed or moved, an air lock may be preventing the pump from priming. Run a "Heavy" cycle with the "Extra Dry" option enabled to force a higher volume of water through the system to push out trapped air pockets. Evaluate Detergent Compatibility: If the dishes are specifically "soapy" but the water is draining, you may be using too much detergent or a non-HE (High Efficiency) soap. Excessive suds create "air cavitation" in the pump, meaning the pump spins in foam rather than water, which prevents it from effectively emptying the tub. Test the Check Valve: Locate the rubber check valve (non-return valve) where the hose meets the pump. If the rubber has perished or is warped, water will flow back into the tub after the pump stops, leaving a soapy residue on the bottom rack. HEADS UP Avoid Liquid Rinse Aids: If you are using pods that already contain a rinse aid, avoid adding extra liquid rinse aid to the dispenser, as this can create an over-sudsing condition that mimics a drainage failure. Monthly Filter Maintenance: The Bespoke series has a very fine mesh; if you don't rinse the filter under a faucet every 2-4 weeks, the biofilm buildup will slow the drain rate, leading to the "soapy dish" syndrome. Check the Air Gap: If your sink has an air gap (the small chrome cylinder on the counter), ensure it is not clogged with debris. A blocked air gap will cause the dishwasher to struggle to push water out, resulting in incomplete cycles.

Question 6

it's making a loud grinding or buzzing noise during the wash cycle, sounds like it's coming from the bottom

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The grinding or buzzing noise emanating from the bottom of your Samsung Bespoke DW80B7070AP is almost certainly caused by a foreign object—such as a shard of broken glass, a popcorn kernel, or a small piece of plastic—that has bypassed the filtration system and entered the wash pump impeller housing. When the pump engages to circulate water through the spray arms, the impeller spins at high speeds; if a hard object is lodged in the housing, it creates a mechanical "buzzing" or "grinding" sound as the impeller blades strike the debris. In some cases, this noise is not debris but a symptom of "cavitation" or a failing pump motor bearing, though this is less common in the Bespoke series. To confirm it is a debris issue, listen for the noise to start specifically when the wash cycle transitions from filling to circulating. If the noise is intermittent or changes pitch as the water level fluctuates, it is likely a loose object rattling within the sump cavity or the impeller shroud. FIX Follow these precise steps to clear the pump and restore quiet operation: Power down the unit completely. For safety, switch off the circuit breaker or unplug the unit if accessible. Open the dishwasher door fully and remove the lower rack by pulling it straight out. Locate the cylindrical filter assembly at the bottom of the tub. Rotate the filter counter-clockwise to the "Unlock" position and lift the entire assembly straight up. Separate the coarse filter (the mesh cylinder) from the micro-filter (the flat disc) and rinse them under hot water to ensure no small debris is clogging the flow. Use a high-intensity flashlight to inspect the sump cavity (the hole where the filter sits). Look for any visible glass shards or plastic fragments. Reach your finger into the sump cavity to feel for obstructions. Be extremely careful, as broken glass is common here. Locate the pump impeller—the small plastic fan blade at the bottom of the sump. Gently try to rotate the impeller with your finger. If it feels "gritty" or won't spin a full 360 degrees, there is an object wedged under the blade. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers or a vacuum with a narrow attachment to extract the debris. Reinstall the filter assembly, locking it firmly clockwise to ensure no further debris reaches the pump. Run a "Quick Wash" cycle to verify the noise has ceased. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Drain Pump: If the noise only occurs at the very end of a cycle or during the initial drain phase, the debris is likely in the drain pump rather than the wash pump. You will need to access the bottom of the unit by removing the toe kick panel and manually checking the drain impeller for obstructions. Inspect the Spray Arms: A loose plastic cap or a piece of debris trapped inside the lower spray arm can create a rhythmic buzzing sound as it rotates and hits the rack. Remove the lower spray arm by unscrewing the center nut and shake it to see if anything is rattling inside. Check for Leveling Issues: If the unit is not perfectly level, the pump can vibrate against the chassis, creating a low-frequency buzzing. Use a spirit level on the top frame and adjust the leveling legs until the unit is dead-level. Pump Motor Failure: If the grinding is metallic and constant regardless of debris removal, the pump motor bearings may have failed. This requires a full replacement of the wash pump assembly (Part #DC92-XXXXX depending on specific regional revision). HEADS UP Pre-Rinse Caution: While the Bespoke series has excellent filtration, always scrape large bones or hard seeds from plates. These are the primary culprits for pump impeller damage. Filter Maintenance: Clean the cylindrical filter assembly once every two weeks. A clogged filter forces the pump to work harder, increasing wear on the motor bearings. Glass Safety: Always use a flashlight and a tool (like pliers) when checking the sump; never use your bare fingers if you suspect broken glassware is the cause. Avoid Over-Sudsing: Using non-dishwasher detergents creates excessive foam, which can cause the pump to "cavitate," creating a buzzing sound that mimics mechanical failure.

Question 7

the auto release door on my dw80b7070ap doesn't pop open at the end of the cycle, it just stays closed

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The AutoRelease function on your DW80B7070AP is failing to trigger. This is typically caused by the feature being accidentally turned off in the hidden settings menu, or by a physical obstruction preventing the door from moving. FIX First, ensure the dishwasher is in standby mode (not running a cycle). Press and hold the 'Delay Start' and 'High Temp Wash' buttons simultaneously for about 3 seconds. The control panel will beep and display the current AutoRelease status ("On" or "Off"). Use the 'High Temp Wash' button to toggle the setting to "On." Press 'Start' to save and exit. Run a Normal, Heavy, or Auto cycle with Heated Dry enabled to test the fix. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Physically inspect the door's path. Open the door fully and check for any items in the top rack or utensil holder that could be contacting the upper cabinet or countertop overhang. Also, examine the hinge area on both sides for food debris or packaging that could jam the mechanism. If the issue persists after clearing obstructions and confirming the setting is on, the solenoid actuator that unlocks the door may have failed, requiring professional service. HEADS UP AutoRelease only functions on Normal, Heavy, and Auto wash cycles when the Heated Dry option is active. It will not operate on Eco, Rinse & Hold, or any cycle where Heated Dry is off. The door opens only a few inches for ventilation, not fully.

Question 8

my bespoke dishwasher just shows a big 'C' on the display and won't start any cycle, what is that?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The large 'C' on your Samsung Bespoke DW80B7070AP display indicates that the Control Lock (often called Child Lock) feature is active. This is a safety function that disables all buttons on the control panel to prevent accidental cycle changes or starts, especially useful in households with children. FIX To deactivate the Control Lock, you need to press and hold two specific buttons simultaneously. Locate the Heated Dry and High Temp Wash buttons on your control panel. Press and hold both of them down for approximately 3 seconds. You will see the 'C' icon disappear from the display, confirming the lock is off. Your dishwasher's control panel is now fully responsive and ready for normal operation. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the button combination fails to clear the 'C', a soft reset of the dishwasher's electronic control board is the next step. First, ensure the dishwasher is not running. Then, unplug the appliance from its dedicated wall outlet and wait for a full 5 minutes. This allows any residual power to drain and the control system to fully reset. After 5 minutes, plug the unit back in. The display should initialize normally without the 'C'. If it persists, check for any stuck or physically damaged buttons that might be continuously sending a lock signal. HEADS UP A Control Lock that repeatedly re-engages by itself, especially after cleaning, can be a sign of moisture ingress or a sticky residue (like from cleaning sprays) on the touch-sensitive control panel. Always wipe the panel with a soft, dry cloth and avoid using liquid cleaners directly on it. If the issue continues, it may indicate a fault in the touchpad assembly requiring service.

Samsung Bespoke AutoRelease DW80B7070AP Dishwasher

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