Question 1

there's a dead pixel, a tiny black spot that won't go away. do i have to return the whole monitor?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A single pixel that is permanently off (black) on a dark background is a dead sub-pixel. This is a physical manufacturing flaw, not something you can fix with software. Most manufacturers have a minimum defect policy for returns. FIX Check Sansui's official dead pixel policy for your region. Most budget monitor brands require a significant number of dead pixels (often 3-5 or more in a central cluster) for a warranty return. If it's just one, they will likely deny an RMA. Your first step is to contact the retailer you bought it from (Amazon, Newegg, etc.), as their return window (usually 30 days) is more lenient than the manufacturer's warranty. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK You can try gentle, localized pressure. With the monitor OFF, place a soft, slightly damp microfiber cloth over the pixel. Using the rounded end of a pen or a pixel-fixer tool, apply very gentle, circular pressure for 5-10 seconds. Turn the monitor on to check. This can sometimes re-establish a connection but risks causing more damage. HEADS UP Do not use online "dead pixel fixer" flashing videos. Those are for stuck pixels (red, green, blue), which are different. Flashing colors will not revive a physically dead pixel. Also, avoid pressing directly on the screen with a sharp object, as you can easily damage the VA panel and create a permanent white spot or crack.

Question 2

the 1ms mprt setting in the menu makes the screen super dark and flickery, is it broken?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS It's not broken. The '1ms MPRT' setting is a backlight strobing feature (often called 'VRB' or 'Motion Blur Reduction'). It pulses the backlight to reduce motion blur, which causes visible flicker and reduces brightness significantly. This is normal operation. FIX Simply turn it off. Press the menu button, navigate to the 'Game' or 'Picture' settings in the OSD, find the option labeled 'MPRT', 'VRB', or 'Response Time'. Set it to 'Off' or 'Normal'. Your screen brightness and flicker will immediately return to normal. For most users, the 'Fast' or 'Faster' response time overdrive setting is a better balance of reduced ghosting without the severe side effects. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the extreme darkness and flicker persist even after turning the MPRT setting off, perform a factory reset on the monitor. In the OSD menu, find the 'Others' or 'System' section and select 'Reset All'. This will clear any conflicting settings. HEADS UP Backlight strobing (MPRT) is known to cause eye strain and headaches during prolonged use. It's a trade-off feature for competitive esports, not for general gaming or desktop use. Also, it often disables adaptive sync (FreeSync) and brightness controls while active.

Question 3

i can't get the vesa mount to line up, the holes on the monitor don't seem to match my arm.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You need to remove the monitor's default stand bracket first. It covers the 100x100mm VESA pattern. The process isn't intuitive. FIX Lay the monitor face down on a soft, flat surface. Firmly grip the stand neck where it meets the monitor. Pull it straight DOWN (toward the bottom of the monitor), do not twist. It is a pressure-fit clip. It will require significant force and make a popping sound when it releases. Once the stand is off, you'll see the four VESA screw holes and a plastic cover in the center. Attach the mounting plate from your arm using the four M4 screws (usually provided with the arm, not the monitor). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK You might be using screws that are too long. The screw wells in the monitor are shallow. Using standard VESA screws longer than 10mm can damage the internal panel. Verify you are using M4 screws with a length of 6mm to 10mm. Do not overtighten. HEADS UP The monitor is relatively light, but its curved screen makes the center of gravity different. Ensure your monitor arm is rated for the weight and that you tighten all arm joints securely to prevent sagging or tilting once mounted.

Question 4

there's a faint but constant high-pitched buzzing or coil whine coming from the back of the monitor, especially on dark screens.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is coil whine from the monitor's internal power supply or backlight circuitry. It's a common physical characteristic, not a defect, and is often more noticeable at high refresh rates or specific brightness levels. FIX Change the refresh rate. Try dropping from 160Hz to 144Hz or 120Hz via your graphics control panel. The change in electrical load often eliminates the noise. Next, adjust the brightness. Set your brightness to either a very low level (20-30%) or a very high level (80-100%). The buzzing often occurs at specific mid-range power loads. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Ensure the monitor is plugged directly into a wall outlet, not a power strip or surge protector shared with other high-draw devices like your PC. A clean power source can sometimes reduce electrical noise. If the buzz is only present when G-Sync/FreeSync is enabled, try turning that feature off in the monitor's OSD or your GPU settings. HEADS UP Coil whine does not affect performance or longevity. If the noise is loud enough to hear over normal room sounds from a distance, you may have a unit with excessive whine and should consider a replacement within the warranty period.

Question 5

the screen has a weird purple or green tint, colors look totally off compared to my laptop.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The monitor's color temperature or picture mode is set incorrectly, or you're using the wrong dynamic contrast setting. VA panels often ship with overly saturated or cool color presets. FIX Press the monitor's menu button and navigate to the picture settings. First, set the 'Picture Mode' to 'Standard' or 'User'. Then, find the 'Color Temperature' setting and change it from 'Cool' or 'Bluish' to 'Normal' or 'Warm'. If colors still look off, go to the 'DCR' (Dynamic Contrast Ratio) setting and turn it OFF. This feature artificially pumps contrast and ruins color accuracy. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The issue is likely at the source. Right-click your desktop, open NVIDIA Control Panel or AMD Radeon Software. Under 'Display' > 'Adjust desktop color settings', ensure the color channel adjustments are set to default (all sliders centered). A faulty or low-quality video cable can also cause color banding or tint. HEADS UP This monitor uses a VA panel, which has inherently different color reproduction and viewing angles than an IPS panel (common in laptops). You will not get an exact match. For critical work, you'd need to calibrate it with a hardware device.

Question 6

how do i get the 160hz refresh rate to work? it's stuck at 60hz in windows settings on my gaming pc.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Windows is using a generic display driver, not the monitor's native capabilities. You haven't enabled the high refresh rate in both Windows AND your graphics card control panel. FIX Go to Windows Settings > System > Display > Advanced display settings. Click 'Display adapter properties for Display 1'. In the new window, go to the 'Monitor' tab. Your 'Screen refresh rate' dropdown should now show 144Hz and 160Hz options. Select 160Hz and apply. If you only see 60Hz, you must also open your NVIDIA Control Panel or AMD Radeon Software. Under 'Display' > 'Change resolution', manually set the refresh rate to 160Hz. This overrides the Windows setting. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK You are likely using the wrong cable or port. The 160Hz mode requires the use of a DisplayPort cable. The included HDMI cable may only support 144Hz at 1080p. Purchase a certified DisplayPort 1.2 (or higher) cable and connect it. HEADS UP Some game launchers and in-game settings have their own frame rate caps. After enabling 160Hz system-wide, go into your game's video settings and set the FPS limit or refresh rate to 160Hz there too.

Question 7

my sansui monitor just shows 'no signal' and goes to sleep even though my pc is on, using the hdmi cable it came with.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The monitor isn't detecting a video signal from your PC. The most common cause is the PC's output being set to the wrong source or refresh rate. FIX First, force the monitor to check the correct input. Use the monitor's OSD button to manually select 'HDMI 1' or 'HDMI 2' (whichever port you're using). If that works, your PC's auto-detect failed. If it doesn't, reboot your PC with the monitor on and connected—this often forces the graphics driver to re-handshake. Finally, check your Windows/NVIDIA/AMD display settings to ensure the output is set to 1920x1080 and the refresh rate is 60Hz or 144Hz/160Hz, not an unsupported mode. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The included HDMI cable can be low quality. Swap it for a known-good, high-speed HDMI cable. Also, try a different HDMI port on your graphics card to rule out a dead port. HEADS UP If you're using a GPU with both HDMI and DisplayPort, the PC might be defaulting to the wrong one. You need to set the correct output as your primary display in your graphics control panel.

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