Question 1

the convection bake or roast function doesn't seem to get hot enough, food takes forever to cook.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The quartz heating element is failing or the temperature sensor (thermistor) is giving a false reading to the control board. FIX Run a convection cycle at 400°F for 10 minutes. Carefully observe through the window. The heating element at the top rear of the cavity should glow bright orange consistently. If it's dim, cycles on/off rapidly, or doesn't glow, the element is faulty and needs replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the element glows properly, the cavity temperature sensor is likely out of calibration or faulty. This requires a technician with the correct tools to diagnose and replace. HEADS UP The interior light may stay off during a convection-only cycle. This is normal. Do not open the door frequently to check the element, as this causes large temperature swings and extends cooking time.

Question 2

my sharp microwave starts but then stops after a few seconds, like it loses power, but the clock stays on.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is a thermal cutoff. The unit is overheating and shutting down to protect itself. The most common cause is a blocked or failed ventilation system. FIX Unplug the microwave. Pull it away from the wall. Vacuum the rear grill and the top vent (if over-the-range) thoroughly. Check that the internal magnetron cooling fan is running when the unit is on. If the fan is not spinning, it or its motor needs replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The thermal cut-off fuse or the magnetron thermal protector may be failing intermittently. These are located on the magnetron or air duct and require a multimeter to test when hot. HEADS UP Operating with blocked vents can permanently damage the magnetron. Ensure at least 3 inches of clearance on all sides, especially the top and rear.

Question 3

the clock on my sharp microwave resets to 0:00 every time i unplug it or have a brief power flicker.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The memory backup circuit on the main control board has failed. This circuit uses a capacitor or small battery to retain clock and settings during power loss. FIX The entire main control board must be replaced. The backup component is soldered onto the board and is not a user-serviceable part. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK This symptom is definitive for this failure. There is no other user-accessible fix. A full control board replacement will resolve it. HEADS UP While the clock reset is annoying, it does not affect the cooking functions. You can continue to use the microwave safely until you decide to replace the board.

Question 4

how do i clean the inside roof of my sharp convection microwave? it's got baked-on grease from convection cooking.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Grease and food splatter polymerize onto the enamel surface during high-heat convection cycles, making it hard to remove. FIX Use a dedicated microwave cleaner or make a paste of baking soda and water. Apply it to the soiled area on the ceiling. Let it sit for 15 minutes. Use a non-abrasive sponge or cloth dampened with very hot water to scrub. The grease should lift. Wipe clean. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK For stubborn spots, use a very mild degreaser like diluted Simple Green. Spray on the cloth, not directly into the cavity, to avoid control panel damage. Wipe immediately and thoroughly. HEADS UP Never use steel wool, abrasive pads, or harsh oven cleaners. They will permanently damage the enamel coating and make future cleaning harder.

Question 5

the turntable in my sharp microwave won't spin at all, just sits there.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The turntable motor has failed or the drive coupling has stripped. This is a common wear item. FIX First, ensure the roller guide and glass tray are correctly seated. If they are, unplug the unit. Remove the glass tray and roller guide. Look underneath the cavity floor at the plastic drive coupling. If it's cracked or the teeth are stripped, replace it. If the coupling is fine, the turntable motor underneath has failed and needs replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK A wire may have come loose from the turntable motor terminals. Check the connection. HEADS UP Do not operate the microwave without the turntable and roller guide installed. It can cause uneven cooking and damage the waveguide cover.

Question 6

there's a loud humming or buzzing noise coming from the back of my sharp microwave, especially on convection bake.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is almost always the convection fan motor or its bearings failing. The motor is located in the rear cavity behind the microwave. FIX Unplug the microwave. Remove the outer casing. Locate the convection fan motor (attached to the metal air guide). Check for free spin. If it's grinding or seized, the motor assembly must be replaced. Ensure the fan blade isn't hitting anything. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK A failing magnetron can sometimes buzz, but that's rare during convection-only cycles. If the noise is only during microwave operation, suspect the magnetron or high voltage diode. HEADS UP The convection fan motor may share a mounting plate with the magnetron cooling fan. Label wires and take pictures before disassembly to ensure correct reassembly.

Question 7

i get an F1 error code on my sharp smc1585bs, it just flashes and won't heat anything.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS F1 is a door switch failure code. One of the three door interlock switches is stuck open or closed, or has failed. FIX Unplug the unit. Test the three door interlock switches for continuity with a multimeter while manually actuating the switch lever. The switch that does not click and change states correctly is faulty. Replace that specific interlock switch. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The wiring harness connecting the door switches to the main control board may have a broken wire or poor connection. Inspect the harness for damage. HEADS UP Never bypass a door interlock switch. The microwave will emit radiation if the door is open. Always replace with the correct part.

Question 8

my sharp convection microwave won't start, the clock is on but nothing happens when i press any buttons, it just beeps.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The control board is getting power but the touchpad is not registering presses. A failed membrane switch panel or a loose ribbon cable connection is the most common cause. FIX Unplug the microwave. Remove the outer case. Locate the flat ribbon cable connecting the control panel to the main control board. Disconnect and firmly reseat this cable at both ends. Reassemble and test. If that fails, the entire membrane switch panel needs replacement. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The main control board itself may have failed. Check for any visible burnt components or cracked solder joints on the board. Board replacement is the only fix. HEADS UP High voltage capacitors inside can hold a lethal charge even when unplugged. If you are not comfortable, do not open the case. Call a technician.

Sharp SMC1585BS Convection Microwave

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