Question 1

the up button on my handset works but the down button is unresponsive.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The membrane switch for the down button inside the handset is faulty or the wire connecting it is damaged. Moisture or physical damage is the usual cause. FIX You need a new handset. The part is usually called the "keypad" or "controller." It connects via a thin 6-pin telephone-style cable to the control box. Order the replacement, unplug the old one, and plug in the new. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The issue could be in the control box's input circuit. Try a known-good handset first to confirm. If a new handset doesn't work, the control box PCB has failed and must be replaced. HEADS UP Do not try to open and repair the handset. It is sealed and not user-serviceable. Spilling liquid on it will almost always cause this failure.

Question 2

my desk wobbles side to side a lot when it's at standing height, is this normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS No, excessive wobble is not normal. The crossbar may not be tightened properly, or the floor is uneven causing the feet to not sit flat. FIX Lower the desk. Check the two large bolts connecting the center crossbar to each leg assembly. Tighten them with the provided Allen key. Then check the four bolts where each foot attaches to the leg. Tighten all eight bolts. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Your floor is likely uneven. Place a carpenter's level on the desk frame. Use shims under the adjustable feet to level the desk. This stabilizes the entire structure. HEADS UP Wobble is worse with a concentrated heavy load like dual monitors on a single arm. Distribute weight evenly. The desk is stable when properly assembled on a level floor.

Question 3

desk just stopped working, no lights on the control panel at all. checked the outlet and it's fine.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS No power to the control box. The issue is either the power supply brick, the cable from the brick to the desk, or the internal fuse in the control box. FIX First, check the 24V DC power adapter brick. Look for a green LED. No light means a dead power supply. Next, trace the thin 2-pin cable from the brick to the control box. Ensure it's fully seated at both ends. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The control box has an internal 5A fuse. You must open the control box housing to check it. Unplug everything first. A blown fuse indicates a short, often from a pinched motor cable. HEADS UP Do not use a third-party power adapter. The voltage must be exactly 24V DC and the amperage must match or exceed the original. Using the wrong adapter can fry the control board.

Question 4

how do i clean the white laminate top without damaging it? i got some stains that won't come off.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The ApexDesk Elite Series utilizes a high-pressure laminate (HPL) surface. While this material is designed for durability, the white finish is susceptible to "staining" via chemical absorption. This occurs when pigments from ink, coffee, or oils penetrate the microscopic pores of the melamine resin layer. Once the pigment bonds with the resin, a simple surface wipe with a damp cloth will not remove it because the stain is no longer sitting on top of the desk, but is embedded within the top 0.1mm of the surface. You can confirm the type of stain by performing a "bead test." Place a small drop of water on the stain. If the water beads up and the stain remains visible underneath, the damage is superficial. If the water absorbs slightly or the stain appears to "bleed" into the water, the laminate's protective seal has been compromised, allowing the contaminant to seep deeper into the substrate. This is common with permanent markers or acidic coffee spills that sat for several hours. FIX To remove these stains without stripping the glossy finish or causing "burn" marks (dull spots), follow this precise sequence: The Alkaline Paste Method: Mix one tablespoon of baking soda with a few drops of distilled water until you achieve a thick, toothpaste-like consistency. Apply a small dollop directly to the stain. Use a microfiber cloth to rub the paste in a gentle, circular motion for 30 seconds. Do not scrub aggressively, as baking soda is a mild abrasive that can dull the white sheen if overused. The Solvent Lift: For ink or adhesive residue, dampen a cotton swab with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. Dab the stain—do not rub—to lift the pigment. Immediately wipe the area with a clean, damp cloth to neutralize the solvent. The Melamine Precision Clean: If the stain persists, use a melamine foam sponge (Magic Eraser). Cut a small 1-inch square of the sponge to ensure you are only targeting the stain. Dampen the sponge and lightly glide it over the spot using only the weight of your hand. Stop the moment the stain disappears to avoid creating a "matte" spot on the glossy white surface. Final Rinse: Wipe the entire affected area with a clean, damp microfiber cloth to remove all chemical residues, then buff dry with a lint-free towel to prevent water spots. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the stain has fully penetrated the resin, try these advanced recovery methods: Hydrogen Peroxide Treatment: For organic stains like coffee or tea, soak a paper towel in 3% Hydrogen Peroxide and lay it flat across the stain. Cover the towel with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation and let it sit for 2 to 4 hours. This oxidizes the pigment from the inside out. Acetone Flash-Clean: Use a tiny amount of pure acetone on a precision swab. This is high-risk; you must work in a 1cm area and wipe it clean with water within 5 seconds. Acetone can melt the laminate if left to soak, but a "flash" application can often lift industrial dyes. Fine-Grit Buffing: If the stain is a physical scratch or a deep burn, use 2000-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Wet the paper and lightly sand the spot in a linear motion. Follow this with a white furniture polishing compound to restore the luster to the sanded area. Laminate Touch-Up: For permanent gouges or deep stains that cannot be lifted, use a white furniture touch-up marker or a wax fill stick specifically formulated for white melamine to mask the discoloration. HEADS UP Keep these maintenance rules in mind to preserve the Elite Series finish: Avoid Ammonia: Never use glass cleaners containing ammonia or bleach-based sprays, as these can yellow the white laminate over time, leading to a permanent "off-white" cast. Heat Protection: Do not place hot coffee mugs or laptops that run hot directly on the surface. Thermal shock can cause the laminate to delaminate or create a permanent yellow ring. Microfiber Only: Abandon paper towels and sponges with green scrubbing pads; these are made of abrasive materials that create microscopic scratches, making the desk more prone to staining in the future. Seal the Surface: Once cleaned, consider applying a high-quality furniture wax or a laminate-safe sealant once every six months to close the pores and prevent future pigment absorption.

Question 5

the memory height settings on my controller keep getting lost after a power outage.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The ApexDesk Elite Series utilizes a non-volatile memory chip that is supposed to retain height presets (1-4) even during power cycles. However, in many Elite Series units, the control box relies on a small internal capacitor to bridge the gap during the transition from "active" to "standby" power. When a total power outage occurs or a surge protector is toggled off, the voltage drop is too abrupt, causing the EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) to fail to write the current state, effectively wiping the stored height values. This issue is most common in units where the control box is mounted too close to the motor housing, leading to heat-induced degradation of the capacitor's efficiency. You can confirm this is the root cause if your presets remain intact during a simple "Off/On" switch flip but disappear entirely after the plug is physically removed from the wall for more than 30 seconds. If the controller displays "RST" or "---" upon reboot, the system has lost its calibration and memory mapping. FIX To stabilize the memory and prevent further data loss, you must perform a hard system reset to clear any corrupted memory sectors and then implement a power stabilization strategy. Unplug the ApexDesk from the wall outlet and disconnect the power cable from the control box for exactly 60 seconds to fully drain any residual capacitance. Plug the desk directly into a dedicated wall outlet. Avoid using "daisy-chained" power strips or cheap extension cords, as voltage drops during startup can trigger a memory wipe. Perform a Manual Reset: Press and hold the "Down" button until the desk reaches its absolute lowest point. Continue holding the button for 5-10 seconds until the digital display flashes "RST" or "H00". Release the button. The desk may move slightly up and down to calibrate the sensors. Set your desired heights: Move the desk to your preferred sitting height, press the "M" or "S" button, and then press the number (1-4) you wish to assign. To permanently protect these settings, install a small Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) or a battery backup surge protector (minimum 300VA). Plug the desk's power brick into the "Battery Backup" outlet rather than the "Surge Only" outlet. This ensures the control box never sees a total voltage drop to zero. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Control Box: If the memory continues to wipe despite a UPS, the internal capacitor on the PCB is likely leaked or blown. You will need to replace the control box (Part #AD-CB-ELITE-V2). Ensure you match the motor count (dual vs. triple) before ordering. Check the Controller Cable: Inspect the RJ11/RJ12 cable connecting the keypad to the control box. If the pins are bent or the cable is pinched, the "write" command for the memory preset may be intermittently failing, making it appear as though the power outage caused the loss. Firmware Update: Some Elite Series batches have a firmware glitch. Try the "Deep Reset" by unplugging the desk, holding the "Up" and "Down" buttons simultaneously, and plugging the power back in while still holding the buttons. Voltage Testing: Use a multimeter to check the output of the power brick. If the brick is outputting less than 24V (for 24V models) or 29V (for 29V models), the low voltage will prevent the memory chip from locking in the presets. HEADS UP Avoid using "Smart Plugs" with the ApexDesk. The automatic scheduling or remote power-off features of smart plugs can cause the control box to enter a "brownout" state, which is the primary cause of memory corruption. Ensure the control box is mounted with at least 2 inches of clearance from the underside of the desktop to prevent heat buildup, which shortens the lifespan of the internal capacitors. Always calibrate the desk (the "RST" process) after any major power surge or lightning storm to ensure the height sensors are aligned, preventing "Uneven Leg" errors. Do not overload the desk beyond the 300lb limit; excessive strain on the motors can cause voltage spikes that trip the control box and wipe the memory settings.

Question 6

my desk makes a loud grinding or clicking noise from one leg when it moves.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The loud grinding or clicking noise in an ApexDesk Elite Series leg is typically caused by a misalignment in the internal drive screw or the accumulation of particulate debris within the telescoping column. Because these desks utilize a precision-threaded lead screw to lift the heavy desktop, even a small piece of grit, a stray metal shaving from the manufacturing process, or a dried-out lubricant patch can create a "catch" point. When the motor forces the column past this obstruction, it produces a rhythmic clicking or a harsh grinding sound. If the noise is a consistent, high-pitched grind, the issue is likely localized to the gearbox at the base of the leg where the motor converts high-speed rotation into high-torque lift. If the noise is intermittent or happens only at specific heights, the problem is almost certainly a physical obstruction or a "flat spot" on the internal nylon bushings. You can confirm this by manually lowering the desk to its lowest setting and inspecting the gap between the inner and outer columns for any visible metallic flakes or dust buildup. FIX To resolve debris-related noise and reset the column alignment, follow these precise steps: Lower the desk to its absolute minimum height using the control panel. Ensure the desk is fully seated so there is maximum exposure to the upper telescoping segments. Using a high-powered vacuum with a narrow crevice tool attachment, run the nozzle along the entire perimeter of the leg seam. Focus specifically on the gap where the inner column slides into the outer housing. While holding the "Down" button to keep the motor engaged, slowly move the desk up and down in 2-inch increments. As the desk moves, continue vacuuming the seams to pull out any trapped particles that are shifted by the movement. Apply a small amount of high-grade white lithium grease to the exposed part of the inner column. Avoid using WD-40, as it is a solvent and will strip the factory lubricant. Perform a "Hard Reset": Unplug the power cable from the wall and the control box. Wait 60 seconds. Plug it back in and hold the "Down" button for 10 seconds until the desk performs a calibration dip (moving down and then slightly back up). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Leveling Imbalance: If the desk is not perfectly level, the legs will "cock" at a slight angle, causing the internal screw to bind against the housing. Use a bubble level on the desktop. Adjust the leveling feet at the bottom of each leg by rotating them clockwise or counter-clockwise until the desktop is perfectly horizontal. Even a 2-degree tilt can cause grinding. Inspect the Gearbox Housing: If the grinding is coming from the very bottom of the leg, the motor mount may have loosened. Check the four mounting bolts securing the motor to the leg column. If any are loose, use a 4mm Allen key to tighten them firmly. A shifting motor causes the drive gear to misalign with the lead screw. Verify Load Distribution: If you have heavy monitors or a PC tower concentrated on the side of the noisy leg, the column may be bowing slightly. Shift your equipment toward the center of the desk and test the movement. If the noise disappears, you are exceeding the dynamic weight limit for that specific leg. Replace the Leg Column: If the clicking is rhythmic and persists after cleaning and leveling, the internal helical gear has likely suffered a tooth failure. This is an internal mechanical failure that cannot be repaired by cleaning. You will need to replace the entire leg assembly (Part #AD-ELITE-LEG-S). HEADS UP Never apply silicone spray or oil to the exterior of the legs; this attracts dust and hair, which eventually works its way into the gear mechanism and causes the very grinding you are trying to fix. Avoid "stuttering" the buttons (rapidly pressing up and down). This can cause the motor to jerk, potentially stripping the nylon bushings inside the Elite Series columns. Periodically check the cable management trays. If a cable is sagging and pressing against the telescoping leg, it can create a rubbing sound that mimics a mechanical grind. Always ensure the desk is unplugged for at least one minute before attempting any physical adjustments to the motor or gearbox to avoid accidental activation.

Question 7

set up my new apexdesk and one leg goes up but the other lags behind or doesn't move at all.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The control box is not properly synced to both motors. The legs are out of sync from the initial setup. FIX Lower the desk to its absolute bottom position. Unplug the desk. Disconnect the motor cables from the control box. Plug the desk back in. Reconnect both motor cables securely. Press and hold the down button for 10 seconds to initiate a full reset and synchronization. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK A motor cable might be faulty. Swap the left and right motor cable connections at the control box. If the problem switches legs, you need a new cable. If the same leg lags, the motor itself is likely defective. HEADS UP Never operate the desk for more than a second when the legs are out of sync. It will twist the frame and cause permanent damage.

Question 8

my apexdesk elite just beeps and won't move when i press the up or down buttons, what's wrong?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The beeping sound and lack of movement on your ApexDesk Elite Series typically indicate that the control box has entered a "Protection Mode." This is most commonly caused by the integrated Anti-Collision System (ACS). The ACS detects an unexpected increase in amperage draw—which happens when the desk hits an object or when the weight is unevenly distributed—and immediately cuts power to the motors to prevent structural damage or injury. However, this state can also be triggered by a "Sync Error" between the dual lifting columns. If one leg has traveled slightly further than the other (even by a few millimeters), the control box detects a tilt imbalance. To protect the internal gears from stripping, the system locks the motors and emits a series of warning beeps. You can confirm this if the digital display shows an "ERR" message or simply flashes the current height repeatedly while beeping. FIX To clear the protection mode and synchronize the lifting columns, you must perform a hard manual reset. Follow these steps exactly: Clear all obstructions from the underside of the desk, specifically checking for cable ties or power strips that may be snagging as the desk descends. Disconnect the main power cable from the wall outlet completely. Leave the unit unplugged for at least 60 seconds to allow the capacitors in the control box to fully discharge. Reconnect the power cable. Ensure the plug is seated firmly in the socket to avoid intermittent power surges. Press and hold the "DOWN" button. Continue holding it even if the desk does not move. The desk will slowly travel to its lowest possible position. Once the desk reaches the bottom, it may "bounce" slightly or stop and beep. Continue holding the "DOWN" button for an additional 5 to 10 seconds. Release the button once the digital display stops flashing and shows a steady numerical height (usually around 24" to 28" depending on your specific leg length). Test the movement by pressing the "UP" button to ensure the columns are rising in unison. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Control Box Connections: Crawl under the desk and locate the black control box. Unplug and re-seat the M2 cables (the thick cables connecting the box to the motors). If a pin is bent or a connector is loose, the system will beep and refuse to move as a safety precaution. Ensure you hear a "click" when plugging them back in. Verify Load Distribution: If you have a heavy PC tower or a large monitor arm mounted to one side, the desk may be triggering the tilt sensor. Shift your equipment toward the center of the desktop to balance the weight across both lifting columns and attempt the reset process again. Inspect for "Cable Pinch": Check the cable management tray. If a power cord is stretched tight and prevents the desk from moving even a fraction of an inch, the ACS will trigger instantly. Give all cables at least 12 inches of slack. Power Cycle the Logic Board: If the display is frozen, use a different wall outlet (avoiding power strips or surge protectors temporarily) to rule out a low-voltage issue that could be causing the control board to glitch. HEADS UP Avoid Overloading: The Elite Series has a specific weight limit. Exceeding this limit, especially with cantilevered weight (like a heavy arm hanging off the edge), will trigger the anti-collision sensor frequently. Cable Management: Always use flexible cable sleeves. Rigid zip-ties are the primary cause of "phantom" collisions because they pull on the motor housing as the desk rises. Reset Periodically: If you notice the desk is slightly tilted, perform the "Hold Down" reset once a month to keep the columns synchronized. Power Stability: Always plug the desk directly into a grounded wall outlet. Using cheap extension cords can cause voltage drops that trigger the "ERR" beeping sequence.

ApexDesk Elite Series Electric Standing Desk

Other Standing Desks