Question 1

how do you even change the oil filter on this thing, i can't get a wrench on it, the frame is in the way.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, they didn't make it easy. The oil filter is tucked up against the frame rail, and a standard socket or wrench won't fit. It's a common first-service headache for every owner. FIX You need a specific tool: a cap-style oil filter wrench with a thin wall, usually 65-67mm (or 2.5-2.6 inches). The one that often works is a metal cup wrench you use with a 3/8" drive ratchet. You might also get it with a short, flexible rubber strap wrench, but the cup is more reliable. Loosen it a bit from below, then you can usually finish spinning it off by hand. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's truly stuck, you can carefully drive a long screwdriver through the side of the old filter to use as a lever. Be prepared for oil to gush out when you puncture it. This is a last-resort, messy method. HEADS UP When installing the new filter, hand-tighten it only—about 3/4 of a turn after the gasket makes contact. Overtightening is the main reason it's impossible to get off next time. And put a rag below it, you will spill some oil on the frame.

Question 2

it makes a horrible loud metallic rattling noise from the blower housing area, only at certain rpms.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's not normal engine noise. It's almost always something loose vibrating against the metal cooling shroud (blower housing) or the fan itself hitting something. Common culprits are the metal baffle inside the shroud, the shroud mounting bolts, or the recoil starter assembly coming slightly loose. FIX With the engine OFF and cool, remove the spark plug wire for safety. Take off the top metal shroud (usually held by a bunch of 10mm bolts). Inside, check the metal heat deflector/baffle plates—they're often spot-welded and can break loose. Also, check that all bolts holding the shroud and the recoil starter are tight. Look for any debris like a loose nut or washer bouncing around. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the cooling fan on the flywheel for cracks. Also, check the engine mounts. If a mount is broken, the engine can tilt and cause the flywheel to lightly contact the shroud at certain vibrations. HEADS UP Don't run it for long with this noise. A loose piece can break off and get flung into the spinning fan, causing serious damage. It's worth the 20 minutes to pop the cover and look.

Question 3

the 50amp outlet on my xp12000eh doesn't work, the 120v ones are fine, did i get a lemon?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The 50-amp (TT-30R) outlet is on a completely separate circuit from the 120V duplex outlets. A single point of failure for just that outlet is usually the GFCI device it's wired through or a loose connection behind the panel. FIX Find the GFCI reset button. On this model, it's typically a physical button on the control panel, near the outlets, sometimes labeled "GFCI Reset." Press it firmly. You should hear a click. Then test the 50-amp outlet with a voltmeter or a known-good RV cord. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The GFCI receptacle itself can fail. You'd need to remove the control panel cover (disconnect spark plug wire first!) to visually inspect the wiring to the 50-amp outlet and the GFCI unit for burns or loose wires. The GFCI is a replaceable component. HEADS UP This GFCI is super sensitive and can trip if there's any moisture in the cord or the connected load. It's a safety feature, not a defect. Always ensure your extension cord and appliance connections are dry.

Question 4

my generator is putting out really low voltage, like 90v, on the 120v outlets, is the alternator fried?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Probably not the alternator (stator) itself. Low voltage almost always means the engine is running way too slow, so the RPM is low. This is either a massive overload (unlikely to cause 90V) or, more probably, the governor spring slipped or the throttle isn't opening. FIX First, check the obvious: make sure the Eco-Throttle switch is OFF. Eco mode lowers RPM under light load, but a failure here can keep it stuck at idle speed. With Eco OFF and no load, use a multimeter to check voltage. It should be 120-130V. If it's still low, you need to check engine speed. The only reliable way is with a handheld digital tachometer aimed at the flywheel nut or by measuring frequency (60 Hz = 3600 RPM). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the engine is indeed running at full 3600 RPM but voltage is low, then you might have a failed AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator). This is a small circuit board usually mounted near the brush assembly. Replacing it is a common fix. HEADS UP Never adjust the governor to try and raise voltage without measuring RPM/frequency. Overspeeding the engine (above 62 Hz) can damage it and the connected appliances.

Question 5

the electric start on my duromax does nothing, no click, just silence, but the battery reads 12v.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A good battery with total silence points to a break in the start circuit. The usual suspects are the 30-amp main fuse blown, the start switch itself, or a safety interlock (like the oil sensor we talked about earlier) preventing engagement. FIX Locate the 30-amp fuse. On the XP12000EH, it's usually in a small in-line fuse holder coming directly off the positive battery terminal. Check it visually or with a multimeter. If it's blown, replace it with an identical 30-amp ATC/ATO blade fuse. Also, ensure the battery terminals are tight and free of corrosion. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The next link is the start switch on the control panel. You can test it by using a jumper wire to briefly connect the two main terminals on the back of the switch (with the battery connected and in run). If the starter engages, the switch is bad. Also, double-check that the low oil alarm isn't activated and needing a reset, as that can disable start. HEADS UP That main fuse often blows if someone tries to jump-start the generator battery while it's connected to the generator. Always disconnect the battery before using jumper cables or a battery charger.

Question 6

switched my dual fuel to propane and it starts but then immediately sputters and dies, what gives?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The generator is getting vapor from the propane tank, but not enough fuel pressure or volume to sustain itself. The most common culprit is the regulator on the propane hose assembly, or the fuel selector valve not being fully in the propane position. FIX First, ensure the propane tank valve is fully open. Then, check that the fuel selector knob on the generator's control panel is turned fully to the "Propane" position—it can feel stiff and might not be fully engaged. Next, inspect the hose and regulator for kinks. Finally, try a different, full propane tank to rule out a tank-side issue. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The internal demand regulator (mounted on the generator frame, where the hose connects) might have a stuck diaphragm or be blocked. You can try tapping it gently with a screwdriver handle to free it. If that fails, it likely needs replacement. HEADS UP Always perform the fuel switch with the engine OFF. And when you switch back to gasoline, you need to run the carburetor dry of propane by letting it die on the propane setting before switching the knob, otherwise you'll have a hard time starting on gas.

Question 7

just got my xp12000eh and it's surging really bad under load, like the lights are pulsing, is it broken?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, this one's common on initial setup. It's almost always the governor not being properly adjusted or the carburetor needing a break-in period. The engine RPM (and thus frequency) is hunting, which causes the voltage to surge. FIX First, make sure it's on a level surface and you're running it at least 10 feet from any structures for proper airflow. Start it and let it run at no load for 5-10 minutes to warm up. Then, with the eco-throttle switch OFF, plug in a steady, substantial load (like a space heater). The governor should settle after a minute. If it doesn't, there's a manual governor adjustment screw on the carburetor linkage, but turning it requires a special tool and is best left for a second step. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it still surges after warm-up under load, the issue might be stale fuel from factory testing or a slightly misadjusted carburetor jet from the factory. Running a full tank of fresh, ethanol-free gas with a carb cleaner additive (like Seafoam) through it often clears this up after a few hours. HEADS UP Don't try to adjust the governor or carburetor yourself if you're not comfortable—you can make it worse. has the procedure, but it's easy to mess up the 3600 RPM setting.

Question 8

my duromax xp12000eh ran for a couple hours then just died, won't restart at all now, battery seems fine?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is almost certainly the low oil shutdown doing its job. The XP12000EH has a sensor that kills the engine if the oil level gets too low, and it won't restart until you refill and manually reset it. FIX First, check and top up the oil to the full mark on the dipstick. Then, you need to reset the low oil alarm. Look for a red rocker switch or button on the control panel near the start switch labeled "Low Oil Alarm Reset" or something similar. Press and hold that reset button for a few seconds. Now try starting it normally. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it still won't crank, the sensor itself might have failed in a "safe" state. You'll need to locate the low oil sensor (on the side of the engine crankcase, with a single wire connector), unplug it, and try starting. If it starts with the sensor disconnected, the sensor is faulty and needs replacing. HEADS UP This shutdown can happen faster than you'd think on a new engine during break-in, as it burns a bit more oil. Always check oil level before every use for the first 20-30 hours.

DuroMax XP12000EH Dual Fuel Generator

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