Question 1

how do i clean the grease management on this thing? the trough just seems to fill up and drip everywhere.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Daniel Boone Prime Plus uses a gravity-fed grease management system consisting of a heat diffuser, a collection trough, and a drainage channel leading to a removable bucket. When you see grease "dripping everywhere," it is almost always due to a blockage in the narrow drainage port or the accumulation of carbonized "sludge" in the front channel. This happens because animal fats—especially from pork and beef—solidify at temperatures below 110°F, creating a waterproof dam that forces subsequent grease to overflow the sides of the trough rather than flowing into the bucket. Furthermore, if the grill is not perfectly level, the grease will pool in the corners of the trough instead of migrating toward the drain hole. You can confirm this by looking for a "lake" of grease at the rear of the trough while the front remains dry, or by noticing a thick, black crust forming around the perimeter of the drainage port, which indicates the flow is restricted and backing up into the main cooking area. FIX To fully restore the grease flow and stop the leaks, follow this deep-cleaning sequence: Allow the grill to cool completely to avoid burns and to prevent warping the metal components. Remove the cooking grates and the heavy-duty heat diffuser plate. Slide the grease collection tray (the angled trough) completely out of the chassis. Use a plastic or metal putty knife to scrape the solidified grease and carbon buildup from the tray. Do not use abrasive steel wool, as this can strip the protective coating and lead to premature rusting. Locate the drainage hole at the end of the trough. Use a pipe cleaner or a small zip-tie to physically poke through the hole to ensure no debris is plugging the transition to the bucket. Clean the front grease channel (the area where the trough sits) by spraying it with a degreaser and wiping it down with heavy-duty paper towels. If there is a thick crust, pour 16oz of boiling water mixed with a squeeze of dish soap directly into the channel to melt the residue. Empty the grease bucket and scrub the interior with hot soapy water. Ensure the rim of the bucket is clean so it forms a tight seal with the drainage port. Reinstall the tray and ensure it is seated flush. Before firing up the grill, place a fresh grease-absorbent liner in the bucket to catch any remaining drips. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Leveling: Use a bubble level on the main frame of the grill. If the grill is leaning forward or to the side, the grease will never reach the drain. Adjust the locking casters or place shims under the legs until the grill is perfectly level; this is the most common cause of "mystery leaks." Clear the Diffuser Holes: Inspect the heat diffuser plate for clogged grease holes. If the holes in the diffuser are plugged with carbon, the grease pools on top of the plate and overflows the sides of the trough. Use a drill bit or a nail to clear each individual drainage hole in the diffuser. Inspect the Bucket Seal: Check the gap between the trough's exit port and the bucket. If the bucket is slightly misaligned or the port is bent, grease will drip onto the lower shelf instead of into the container. Gently bend the drainage tab back into alignment using pliers if necessary. Degrease the Exterior Chassis: If grease is dripping from the outside of the grill, it has likely migrated under the main body. Use a dedicated grill degreaser on the exterior panels and wipe them down to prevent the grease from baking onto the paint during the next cook. HEADS UP Avoid Foil Liners: Never line the grease trough with aluminum foil. This blocks the drainage holes entirely and creates a massive fire hazard as grease pools and ignites. Post-Cook Flush: After a heavy brisket or pork shoulder cook, run the grill at 300°F for 15 minutes with no food on it. This thins the grease and helps it flow completely into the bucket before it solidifies. Bucket Frequency: Empty your grease bucket every 3-5 cooks. A full bucket creates back-pressure and can cause grease to overflow back into the trough. Material Care: Only use food-grade degreasers. Harsh industrial chemicals can damage the finish of the Prime Plus and may contaminate your food.

Question 2

my temperature swings are huge, like 50 degrees over and under my set point on the daniel boone.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Temperature swings of 50 degrees or more on the Daniel Boone Prime Plus usually indicate a failure in the PID (Proportional-Integral-Derivative) control loop. This happens when the RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) probe provides inaccurate readings or when the fuel delivery is inconsistent, causing the controller to "over-correct." Instead of maintaining a steady state, the grill dumps too many pellets, overshoots the target, and then starves the fire to compensate, creating a volatile temperature seesaw. This is most frequently caused by carbon buildup (creosote) on the RTD probe tip. Even a thin layer of blackened soot acts as an insulator, delaying the signal to the controller; by the time the sensor registers the heat, the fire is already too hot. Alternatively, "pellet bridging" or ash accumulation in the firepot prevents the pellets from igniting uniformly, leading to sudden bursts of combustion when a clump finally catches fire. You can confirm this by observing the pellet level in the pot; if you see "mountains" of unburnt pellets that suddenly vanish into a flash of heat, you have a fuel-feed issue. FIX To stabilize your temperature swings, follow this deep-cleaning and calibration sequence: Clean the RTD Probe: Locate the temperature probe inside the grill. Use a soft brass brush or a fine-grit scouring pad to gently remove all carbon buildup from the metal tip. Do not use heavy abrasives or chemicals, as scratching the sensor housing can cause permanent calibration drift. Deep Clean the Firepot: Turn off the grill and allow it to cool completely. Remove the grill grates and the drip tray. Use a shop vacuum to remove every speck of ash from the burn pot and the surrounding combustion chamber. Ensure the air intake holes at the bottom of the pot are completely clear of debris. Verify Pellet Quality: Empty your current hopper and check for "fines" (sawdust). If your pellets are crumbling or have a high dust content, they will burn inconsistently. Refill with a high-density, food-grade hardwood pellet with a consistent 6mm diameter. Perform a Feed Test: With the grill off, use the "Feed" button to manually run the auger. Observe the pellets dropping into the pot. They should fall in a consistent, steady stream without hesitation or "clumping" at the exit point of the auger tube. Calibrate the Offset: Once the grill is stabilized, if you notice a consistent 5-10 degree difference between the controller and a handheld probe, go to the settings menu and adjust the temperature offset to align the two. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Air Leaks: Inspect the lid gasket and the hopper lid. If cold air is leaking into the combustion chamber through gaps in the seals, the PID controller will struggle to maintain heat, leading to erratic swings. Replace any worn seals or use high-temp food-grade foil to block gaps. Inspect the Induction Fan: Ensure the fan at the bottom of the grill is spinning freely and isn't obstructed by ash or a foreign object. If the fan is struggling to push air, the fire will smolder and then flare up violently once oxygen finally penetrates the ash bed. Test the RTD Wiring: Check the wiring harness leading from the probe to the control board. If the wire is frayed or pinched, it can cause intermittent signal loss, which the controller interprets as a sudden drop in temperature, triggering an unnecessary burst of pellets. Update the Firmware: Ensure your Prime Plus is connected to Wi-Fi and running the latest firmware version. Manufacturer updates often include refined PID algorithms specifically designed to smooth out temperature oscillations. HEADS UP Avoid "Over-Tuning": Do not constantly change the temperature set point during a cook; give the PID controller at least 20 minutes to stabilize after any adjustment. Ash Management: Vacuum the firepot every 2-3 cooks. Accumulated ash restricts airflow, which is the primary cause of "temperature spikes" on the Daniel Boone series. Pellet Storage: Store your pellets in a sealed, airtight container. Damp pellets swell and create friction in the auger, leading to inconsistent fuel delivery and erratic heat. Probe Placement: Never move the RTD probe to a custom location. The probe is positioned specifically to balance the ambient air temperature with the heat source; moving it will cause the grill to over-fire or under-fire.

Question 3

there's a loud rattling or buzzing noise coming from the back bottom of my grill during operation.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The loud rattling or buzzing noise originating from the bottom rear of the Daniel Boone Prime Plus is almost always caused by harmonic vibration or physical interference within the combustion fan assembly. Because the fan operates at high RPMs to force air into the fire pot, even a microscopic misalignment or a loose fastener can create a resonant frequency that sounds like a loud metallic rattle throughout the entire chassis. In most cases, the root cause is one of two things: either the metal protective shroud surrounding the fan motor has shaken loose from its mounting points, or "fly-ash" (small, hardened clumps of burnt pellet residue) has migrated into the fan housing. When a piece of debris hits the spinning fan blades, it creates a high-frequency buzzing sound. You can confirm this by safely powering down the grill and gently tapping the rear bottom panel; if you hear a metallic "clink" or rattle without the motor running, a mounting screw has backed out. FIX Follow these precise steps to silence the fan and ensure the airflow remains optimal: Completely disconnect the grill from the power source to prevent accidental fan activation. Locate the rear lower access panel. Using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, remove the three screws securing the fan cover. Be careful not to drop these screws into the pellet hopper or the ash tray. Once the cover is removed, inspect the fan blades for any visible obstructions. Use a vacuum or compressed air to clear out any accumulated wood chips, ash, or insects from the housing. Do not use a wire brush, as you may bend the fan blades, causing an imbalance. Check the central hub of the fan motor. Ensure the blade assembly is seated firmly on the shaft. If there is play in the hub, the motor bearings may be failing. Locate the two primary mounting screws that secure the entire fan motor assembly to the grill's frame. Tighten these firmly, but do not over-torque them to the point of stripping the threads in the thin gauge steel. Reinstall the fan cover and tighten the three screws in a star pattern to ensure even pressure across the seal. Power on the grill and run a "Startup" cycle to verify the noise has subsided. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Fan Motor Bearings: If the rattle persists and sounds more like a grinding noise, the internal bearings of the fan motor have likely failed. This is common if the grill is stored in a high-moisture environment. You will need to replace the combustion fan motor assembly entirely. Inspect the Heat Shield Gap: Check the gap between the fan housing and the internal heat shield. If the shield has warped due to extreme heat, it may be touching the housing. Gently bend the shield away from the motor using pliers to create a 1/8-inch clearance. Verify the Ash Tray Alignment: Ensure the ash tray is seated perfectly flush. If the tray is slightly skewed, the vibration from the fan can cause the tray to rattle against the frame, mimicking a fan noise. Remove and re-seat the tray firmly. Examine the Wiring Harness: Check the wiring leading to the fan motor. If a zip-tie has broken or a wire has shifted, the cable may be vibrating against the metal chassis at high speeds. Secure any loose wires with high-temperature heat-shrink tubing or automotive-grade zip ties. HEADS UP Always vacuum out the fire pot and the area around the fan every 3-5 cooks to prevent ash buildup from entering the fan housing. Avoid using "non-standard" pellet brands that produce excessive fine dust, as this dust can coat the fan motor and lead to overheating or imbalance. If you notice the fan buzzing specifically during the "Fan-Off" phase of a shutdown, it may indicate a controller glitch; perform a hard reset by unplugging the unit for 60 seconds. Never spray lubricants or WD-40 into the fan housing; these are flammable and can ignite during the startup phase of the grill.

Question 4

the app won't connect to my grill anymore, it just spins and says searching for device.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "searching for device" spinning wheel on the Green Mountain Grills (GMG) app typically indicates a handshake failure between the Daniel Boone Prime Plus controller's internal WiFi module and your local network. This is rarely a problem with the app itself, but rather a state of "zombie connection" where the grill believes it is connected to the router, but the router has dropped the IP assignment or the DHCP lease has expired. This most frequently happens after a power flicker, a router firmware update, or if you have a dual-band router that is attempting to force the grill onto a 5GHz band. The Daniel Boone Prime Plus uses a 2.4GHz radio; if the router tries to "steer" the device to 5GHz, the connection will drop and the app will spin indefinitely because it cannot locate the grill's specific MAC address on the network. You can confirm this by checking your router's connected devices list—if the grill is not listed or shows as "offline" despite the controller being powered on, the network handshake has failed. FIX To restore the connection, you must clear the cached network credentials and force a fresh pairing sequence. Follow these exact steps: Power down the grill completely using the main power switch. Wait 30 seconds to allow the capacitors in the controller to discharge fully. Power the grill back on. Once the screen initializes, press the MENU button. Use the arrow keys to scroll through the menu until you highlight WiFi Settings. Press the select button to enter this submenu. Scroll down to Reset WiFi and select it. The controller will prompt you for confirmation; select Yes. The screen should indicate that the WiFi is now in "Setup Mode" or "Ready for Pairing." Open the GMG App on your smartphone. Ensure your phone is connected to a 2.4GHz WiFi network. If your router uses a single SSID for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz, you may need to temporarily disable the 5GHz band in your router settings. In the app, select "Add Device" and follow the prompts. When asked for the network password, enter it carefully—the grill is case-sensitive. Wait for the app to confirm the connection. The controller screen should now display "Connected" and show a signal strength indicator. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Assign a Static IP: Log into your router's admin panel (usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1) and find the GMG grill in the device list. Assign a "Static IP" or "DHCP Reservation" to the grill's MAC address. This prevents the router from changing the grill's address, which is a common cause of the app losing the device after a few days of uptime. Check Signal Interference: The Daniel Boone Prime Plus has a metal chassis that can act as a Faraday cage, blocking signals. If your router is more than 30 feet away or separated by a brick wall, install a WiFi range extender halfway between the router and the grill. Ensure the extender is also configured for 2.4GHz. Clear App Cache: Go to your smartphone's Settings > Apps > GMG App > Storage and select "Clear Cache" and "Clear Data." Uninstall the app and reinstall it from the App Store or Google Play. This removes any corrupted local tokens that might be preventing the app from seeing the "new" connection. Hardware Module Inspection: If the "Reset WiFi" option in the menu freezes the controller or returns an error, the internal WiFi antenna cable may have shaken loose during shipping or assembly. With the power off, you can check the controller housing for any loose wires, though this typically requires a technician if the module itself has failed. HEADS UP Avoid 5GHz Networks: The Daniel Boone Prime Plus will never connect to a 5GHz-only network. If you have a "Smart" router that merges bands, the grill may intermittently disconnect. Creating a dedicated 2.4GHz Guest Network just for your grill is the most stable long-term solution. Power Stability: Frequent power surges can corrupt the WiFi module's firmware. Using a high-quality outdoor surge protector can prevent the need for frequent WiFi resets. Firmware Updates: When the app prompts you for a firmware update, do not turn off the grill or close the app until it is 100% complete. Interrupting a WiFi module update can "brick" the connectivity, requiring a full controller replacement.

Question 5

my gmg igniter glows red but won't light the pellets, just fills the firepot with unburnt fuel.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This issue is typically caused by a failure in the "critical mass" of heat and oxygen required to transition from a glowing heating element to a sustainable pellet flame. While the igniter (the heating element) is receiving power and glowing red, it is not reaching the precise temperature threshold needed to ignite the specific wood pellets being used, or the oxygen flow is insufficient to sustain the initial spark. In many cases, this is a result of "ash bridging," where a layer of compacted ash has built up around the igniter tube or inside the firepot. This ash acts as an insulator, preventing the heat from the element from transferring directly into the pellets. Alternatively, if the combustion fan is spinning but the air is restricted, the pellets will simply "pile up" in the firepot without enough oxygen to ignite, leading to the "mountain of unburnt fuel" symptom you are seeing. FIX To resolve this, you must ensure a clean environment and unrestricted airflow. Follow these steps precisely: Power down the grill and unplug it from the wall outlet to avoid electrical shock when working near the heating element. Open the hopper and remove any pellets sitting on top of the auger. Use a shop vacuum with a narrow crevice tool to suck out every bit of ash and unburnt pellet fragments from the firepot. Pay special attention to the area immediately surrounding the igniter tube; any ash buildup here will kill the heat transfer. Inspect the igniter element for any physical breaks or "hot spots" (areas where the metal has thinned or warped). If the element is intact, use a soft brush to gently remove any carbon deposits from the surface of the tube. Locate the combustion fan intake on the rear of the unit. Ensure there are no spider webs, dust clumps, or outdoor debris blocking the intake vents. With the unit still unplugged, manually spin the fan blade (if accessible) to ensure it rotates smoothly without grinding or resistance. Plug the unit back in and perform a "Startup" sequence. Watch the firepot through the viewing window (if applicable) or carefully open the lid after 5 minutes to ensure the pellets are actually scorching and not just sitting in a cold pile. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Igniter Element: Even if the element glows, it may be "voltage dropping," meaning it looks red but isn't hitting the 800-1000°F required for ignition. Replace the igniter with a genuine GMG replacement part. Ensure the wiring harness is seated tightly in the control board to prevent intermittent power delivery. Check Pellet Quality and Moisture: If your pellets have absorbed moisture (high humidity), they will require significantly more heat to ignite. Try a fresh bag of high-quality, hardwood pellets. If the pellets are "crumbly" or have a powdery texture, they will clog the auger and fail to ignite properly. Verify Combustion Fan Voltage: The fan may be spinning but not at full RPM. If the fan is underperforming, it won't push enough oxygen into the firepot to support the flame. Listen for a high-pitched whine; if the fan sounds sluggish or makes a rattling noise, the motor is failing and needs replacement. Inspect the Auger Feed Rate: If the auger is feeding pellets too quickly during the startup phase, it can "smother" the igniter, covering the glowing element in cold fuel before it has a chance to start the fire. Ensure your firmware is updated to the latest version via the GMG app to ensure the startup timing is calibrated correctly. HEADS UP Always vacuum the firepot every 2-3 cooks. Ash buildup is the number one cause of ignition failure on the Daniel Boone series. Never use a metal wire brush on the igniter element, as this can scratch the protective coating and lead to premature burnout. Store your pellets in a sealed plastic container rather than the hopper during the off-season to prevent moisture absorption and mold. If you experience frequent ignition failures, consider using a "starter fire" method: light a small handful of pellets with a torch in the firepot, then start the grill to bypass the electrical igniter entirely.

Question 6

i get hardly any smoke flavor on my prime plus even at low temp, what am i doing wrong?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The lack of smoke flavor in your Daniel Boone Prime Plus usually stems from a combination of "over-cleaning" and the efficiency of the forced-induction system. Unlike traditional offset smokers, pellet grills use an auger and a fan to create a very clean, efficient burn. If you are meticulously scrubbing the interior walls and the heat diffuser plate between every cook, you are removing the carbonized seasoning (the "patina") that helps trap and recirculate smoke particles. When the interior is surgically clean, the smoke exits the chimney too quickly, essentially turning your grill into a convection oven rather than a smoker. Furthermore, the Prime Plus model is designed for precision temperature control. Once the grill reaches your set temperature—even at low settings—the fan modulates to maintain that heat, which often reduces the volume of smoke produced. If you are using "competition" style pellets with very low moisture content or high-density hardwoods, they may burn too cleanly at higher temperatures, leaving you with a product that is cooked perfectly but lacks that distinct "pit-smoked" depth. You can confirm this by observing the exhaust; if you see only a thin, translucent wisp of smoke once the grill hits 225°F, your burn is too efficient for maximum flavor absorption. FIX To maximize smoke penetration and flavor profile on the Daniel Boone Prime Plus, follow this specific sequence for your next cook: Establish a Seasoning Layer: Stop using heavy-duty degreasers or abrasive scrubbers on the interior walls and the heat diffuser. Allow a layer of carbonized oil and residue to build up. This creates a "sticky" environment that helps smoke linger. The "Low and Slow" Start: Do not start your grill at your final cooking temperature. Set the controller to the 'Smoke' setting or 180°F. Keep the grill at this temperature for the first 90 to 120 minutes of the cook. This is the "smoke window" where the pellets smolder rather than burn, producing the heaviest volume of aromatic smoke. The Temperature Jump: Only after the meat has absorbed the initial heavy smoke should you increase the temperature to your target (e.g., 225°F or 250°F). This ensures you get the flavor benefit of the smoke and the efficiency of the higher heat for rendering fat. Pellet Selection: Switch to a blend of pellets. Instead of using only a single-species hardwood, try a "Competition Blend" or a mix of Hickory and Cherry. The varying densities of these woods create more irregular combustion, which increases smoke output. Airflow Management: Ensure your vents are clear, but avoid using external fans or blowing air into the hopper, as this can disrupt the vacuum effect that pulls smoke across the food. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Pellet Quality: If your pellets have been sitting in a humid garage, they may have absorbed moisture, causing them to "puff" and burn inconsistently, or conversely, they may be too dry. Ensure you are using premium, food-grade pellets without binders. If you see "dust" buildup at the bottom of the hopper, vacuum it out; excessive dust can cause the fire pot to burn too hot and clean, skipping the smoke phase. Implement a "Smoke Ring" Rub: If the flavor is there but the visual smoke ring is missing, incorporate a small amount of paprika or a tiny pinch of dextrose into your dry rub. These react with the nitrogen dioxide in the smoke to enhance the appearance and perceived "smokiness" of the bark. Adjust Meat Placement: Move your meat further away from the heat diffuser plate. In the Daniel Boone Prime Plus, the smoke concentrates in the center of the chamber. If your meat is pushed too far to the edges, it may be hitting "dead zones" where the smoke doesn't circulate as effectively. Verify the Fire Pot: Inspect the fire pot for excessive ash buildup. If ash accumulates around the edges of the pot, it can restrict airflow, causing the pellets to burn inefficiently or "stutter," which ironically can either cause too much acrid smoke or none at all. Clean the pot with a vacuum every 3-4 cooks. HEADS UP Avoid Over-Cleaning: Never use chemical oven cleaners inside the grill; this strips the seasoning and can leave toxic residues that affect the flavor of your food. Pellet Storage: Store your pellets in a sealed, airtight container. Damp pellets lead to "clumping" in the auger, which can cause temperature spikes and a total loss of smoke production. The "Smoke" Setting: Remember that the 'Smoke' setting on the Prime Plus is designed for flavor, not for cooking. Do not leave meat in the smoke setting for the entire cook, or you risk entering the "danger zone" where bacteria can grow because the internal temperature of the meat isn't rising fast enough. Fat Content: Remember that lean meats (like turkey breast) absorb smoke differently than fatty meats (like brisket). If you are cooking lean cuts, you may need to extend the 180°F phase to get the same flavor profile.

Question 7

the fan on my gmg daniel boone runs non-stop even when it's off and cold, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS No, this is not normal behavior. The combustion fan on the Daniel Boone Prime Plus is designed to operate only during the startup phase (to ignite pellets) and intermittently during the cook cycle to regulate temperature. If the fan is spinning while the unit is powered off or completely cold, you are experiencing a mechanical failure of the relay on the main control board. The relay is an electromagnetic switch that opens and closes to send 120V power to the fan motor. Over time, the internal contacts of the relay can "weld" together due to electrical arcing or heat stress, causing the circuit to remain closed. This means the fan is receiving a constant stream of electricity regardless of what the microprocessor is commanding. You can confirm this by unplugging the grill from the wall; if the fan stops immediately and restarts the moment you plug it back in (without even powering the grill "on"), the relay is definitively stuck in the closed position. FIX Because the relay is soldered directly onto the proprietary circuit board, the entire controller assembly must be replaced to restore proper functionality. Power Down: Completely disconnect the power cord from the 120V AC outlet. Do not attempt to service the board while the unit is plugged in, as the fan circuit carries live current. Remove the Faceplate: Locate the two Phillips-head screws on the underside of the controller housing. Remove these screws and gently pull the control panel forward to expose the internal wiring. Document Wiring: Before disconnecting anything, take a clear photo of the wiring harness. There are multiple multi-pin connectors for the RTD (temperature probe), the fan, and the auger motor. Disconnect Harnesses: Press the plastic release tabs on each connector and pull them straight out. Be careful not to tug on the wires themselves, as the insulation can become brittle from heat. Swap the Board: Remove the mounting screws securing the controller board to the chassis. Lift the failed board out and install the replacement assembly (ensure you have the Prime Plus specific board, as the standard Daniel Boone board has different voltage regulators). Reassemble: Plug the harnesses back into their respective slots until you hear a distinct click. Secure the board and screw the faceplate back into position. Test: Plug the unit in. The fan should remain silent until you hit the "Power" button and initiate a startup sequence. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Shorted Wiring: Inspect the wiring loom running from the controller down to the fan motor. If the insulation has melted or been chewed by rodents, the hot wire may be touching the fan's power lead, bypassing the relay entirely. Look for blackened wires or exposed copper near the hopper base. Inspect the Fan Motor: While rare, a catastrophic short within the fan motor's internal windings can occasionally cause erratic behavior. If a new board doesn't fix it, replace the combustion fan motor (ensure the RPM rating matches the Prime Plus specifications to avoid overheating the new board). Verify Power Source: If you are using a surge protector or a smart plug, bypass it and plug the grill directly into a GFCI wall outlet. In rare cases, electrical noise or "dirty" power can cause the microprocessor to glitch and trigger the relay, though this usually doesn't happen when the unit is powered off. HEADS UP Avoid Power Strips: Always plug your Daniel Boone Prime Plus directly into a wall outlet. The initial draw of the auger and fan can trip cheap surge protectors, which sometimes causes voltage spikes that weld the relay closed. Clean the Fan Vent: Every 6 months, use compressed air to blow out the fan housing. Dust and pellet fines buildup can cause the fan to work harder, increasing the heat load on the relay and shortening the board's lifespan. Temperature Probe Care: When replacing the board, check your RTD probe for kinks. A faulty probe can cause the board to "panic" and run the fan at 100% to prevent a perceived overheat, which can mimic a stuck relay.

Question 8

my daniel boone prime plus just shows 'ERR' on the display and won't do anything, what is that?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "ERR" message on the Daniel Boone Prime Plus is a general fault indicator triggered when the controller board detects a reading that falls outside of the expected electrical range. In 95% of cases, this is caused by a failure in the RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) probe, which is the internal temperature sensor. The controller monitors the resistance of this probe to determine the grill temperature; if the circuit is broken (open) or shorted, the system cannot safely operate the auger or fan, triggering the error to prevent a grease fire or overheating. This failure typically happens due to thermal fatigue—the constant expansion and contraction of the probe's internal wiring—or physical damage to the wiring harness where it enters the cook chamber. You can confirm this by observing if the error appears immediately upon power-up or only after the grill reaches a certain temperature. If it's instant, the probe is likely completely dead. If it happens mid-cook, the probe is likely "drifting" or intermittently failing as it heats up. FIX To resolve this, you must test the probe's resistance and replace the sensor if it is out of spec. You will need a digital multimeter set to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Completely disconnect the grill from the 120V power source to avoid damaging the controller board. Remove the controller housing from the grill frame by unscrewing the mounting bolts. Carefully pull the controller forward to expose the wiring harness. Locate the RTD probe connector—this is the two-wire plug leading from the cook chamber into the main control board. Unplug this connector from the board. Set your multimeter to the 2k Ohm range. Place the probes on the two pins of the RTD sensor plug (not the board side). Check the reading at room temperature (approximately 70°F). A functioning probe should read between 1080 and 1120 ohms. If the multimeter displays "OL" (Open Loop) or "0.00" (Short Circuit), the probe has failed. Order a replacement RTD probe specific to the Daniel Boone Prime Plus model. Thread the new probe through the existing mounting hole in the cook chamber, ensuring the sensor tip is properly seated and not touching the metal walls of the grill. Plug the new sensor into the controller board, secure the housing, and power on the grill to verify the "ERR" code is gone. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Wiring Harness: Check the entire length of the wire from the probe to the controller. Look for pinch points, melted insulation, or rodent chew marks. A partial break in the wire can cause an intermittent "ERR" code that a static multimeter test might miss. Use a continuity test while gently wiggling the wire. Check the Controller Board Pins: Inspect the pins on the control board where the RTD plugs in. If there is corrosion or a bent pin, the connection will be unstable. Clean the contacts with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. Power Cycle and Hard Reset: Occasionally, the logic board can glitch. Unplug the grill for at least 10 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge fully. While unplugged, hold the power button for 10 seconds, then plug it back in. Replace the Controller Board: If a brand new RTD probe still triggers the "ERR" code, the fault lies within the analog-to-digital converter on the main control board. The board will need to be replaced entirely as these are integrated circuits and cannot be repaired manually. HEADS UP Avoid High-Pressure Washers: Never use a pressure washer near the RTD probe entry point; moisture intrusion into the sensor housing is a leading cause of probe failure. Probe Positioning: Ensure the probe is not touching the side of the grill barrel. If it touches the metal, you will get inaccurate temperature readings or "false" ERR codes due to rapid heat transfer. Avoid Chemical Cleaners: Do not use caustic oven cleaners on the internal probe sensor, as these chemicals can eat through the protective sheath and short the internal elements. Tighten Connections: Periodically check that the controller housing is tight; vibrations from the auger motor can occasionally loosen the wiring harnesses over several seasons of use.

Green Mountain Grills Daniel Boone Prime Plus

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