Question 1

my presto canner makes a loud, scary rattling or chattering noise when the pressure regulator weight is rocking, is that okay?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The rattling or chattering noise occurring in your Presto 01755 is caused by an unstable pressure regulator weight. This happens when the volume of steam escaping the vent pipe is too high for the weight of the regulator to stabilize, causing it to "bounce" or vibrate rapidly against the rim of the vent pipe rather than rocking in a smooth, rhythmic arc. This is essentially a mechanical feedback loop where the steam pressure lifts the weight, the weight drops, and the sudden seal causes a pressure spike that immediately kicks the weight back up again. You can confirm this is a heat-management issue if the chattering begins shortly after the canner reaches pressure. If the regulator is vibrating violently or making a metallic "clacking" sound, it indicates that the burner is providing too much BTU output for the current internal pressure. While this is generally not dangerous—as the regulator is still venting steam and preventing over-pressurization—it can lead to overheating your food and potentially scorching the bottom of your jars if the heat remains too high for too long. FIX To eliminate the chattering and achieve the correct "gentle rock," follow these precise steps: Wait for the canner to reach the target pressure (indicated by the regulator beginning to rock or the gauge reaching the designated PSI). Immediately reduce the heat on your stove. If using a gas range, turn the dial down to a medium-low or low setting. If using an electric coil, switch to a lower heat setting. Observe the regulator for 60 seconds. Your goal is to achieve a steady, rhythmic rock of approximately 1 to 3 rocks per minute. If the regulator continues to chatter, continue lowering the heat in small increments. The regulator should not "dance" or vibrate; it should move in a slow, predictable pendulum motion. Verify that the regulator weight is seated squarely on the vent pipe. If it is tilted or skewed, it will chatter even at low heat. Gently nudge it into a centered position using a long utensil (be careful of the steam). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the vent pipe for debris. Use a thin pipe cleaner or a straightened paperclip to ensure the hole in the vent pipe is completely clear of food particles or mineral buildup. Even a small obstruction can disrupt the steam flow, causing the regulator to wobble unevenly and chatter. Inspect the regulator weight for warping. Place the regulator on a flat surface; if it doesn't sit perfectly level or if the interior rim is dented, it will not seal correctly against the vent pipe. If the weight is damaged, replace it with a genuine Presto replacement part to ensure the correct weight calibration. Verify your liquid levels. Ensure you have the required 2-3 inches of water in the bottom of the canner. If the water level is too low, the steam can become "dry" and more turbulent, which can affect the stability of the regulator rock. Check for "false" pressure. If you are using a gauge, ensure it is calibrated. If the gauge reads lower than the actual internal pressure, you may be keeping the heat too high, causing the regulator to chatter because the actual PSI is far beyond the regulator's design limit. HEADS UP Never attempt to "steady" the regulator by placing an object on top of it or tying it down; this can lead to a dangerous over-pressure situation and trigger the safety plug. Always ensure the regulator is placed on the vent pipe before turning on the heat. Forgetting the regulator will lead to a rapid loss of water and potential damage to the aluminum pot. Periodically clean the vent pipe with warm soapy water and a brush to prevent calcium deposits from creating an uneven steaming surface. Remember that the regulator weight is designed to be the first line of defense; if it is rattling, it is still venting, but the "chatter" is a signal from the machine that your heat source is too aggressive.

Question 2

i see a bunch of tiny pinholes or dark spots on the inside bottom of my aluminum pressure canner, is it still safe to use or is it corroded?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The tiny pinholes or dark, grayish-black spots you are seeing on the bottom of your Presto 01755 aluminum canner are the result of "pitting corrosion." This occurs because aluminum is a highly reactive metal. When acidic foods (like tomatoes, fruits, or vinegars) or high-salt brines come into direct contact with the aluminum surface during the heating process, they strip away the protective aluminum oxide layer. This creates localized chemical reactions that eat tiny, microscopic craters into the metal. These spots are not "holes" in the sense that they go through the metal; they are surface-level depressions. You can confirm this by taking a cotton swab dipped in water and rubbing the spot. If the spot doesn't bleed a dark liquid and doesn't feel like a deep puncture that you can poke a needle through, it is surface pitting. If the spots are merely discolorations or shallow pits, the structural integrity of the 16-quart vessel remains intact, and the unit is safe for continued pressure canning. However, if you see actual perforations where water leaks into the outer jacket, the unit must be decommissioned immediately. FIX Since pitting is a chemical change in the metal, you cannot "buff" it out without removing a significant amount of material, which is not recommended. Instead, focus on neutralizing the surface and preventing further degradation. Empty the canner and allow it to cool completely to room temperature. Wash the interior with a mild dish soap and a soft nylon sponge. Avoid using steel wool or scouring pads, as these create micro-scratches that accelerate future pitting. To remove dark oxidation stains, create a paste of baking soda and a small amount of water. Apply the paste specifically to the dark spots and let it sit for 15 minutes. Gently scrub the paste with a soft cloth in a circular motion, then rinse thoroughly with warm water. Dry the interior completely using a lint-free microfiber towel. Any residual moisture left on the bottom can contribute to further oxidation during storage. To create a temporary protective barrier, you can "season" the bottom by rubbing a very thin layer of neutral vegetable oil onto the base and heating it on low for 5 minutes before adding water for your next batch. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the spots continue to grow or the discoloration is stubborn, try these advanced recovery methods: White Vinegar Soak: Fill the bottom of the canner with a mixture of one part white distilled vinegar and three parts water. Simmer this mixture for 10 minutes. The mild acidity of the vinegar helps break down the surface oxidation without eating into the healthy metal. Rinse thoroughly with water afterward. Citric Acid Treatment: For heavy gray scaling, add two tablespoons of food-grade citric acid to a gallon of water and simmer for 15 minutes. This is more effective than vinegar for removing mineral buildup that often hides under the pitting. Commercial Aluminum Cleaner: Use a specialized aluminum polish or cleaner that does not contain bleach. Apply with a soft cloth, wipe away the residue, and wash the unit twice with soap to ensure no chemical residue remains before canning food. Replacement of Gasket: If you have been scrubbing the interior aggressively, check your rubber gasket for wear. Pitting often coincides with old age; if the metal is pitting, the gasket may be brittle. Replace it with a genuine Presto replacement gasket to ensure a tight seal. HEADS UP Avoid Acidic Direct Contact: Never place high-acid foods directly on the bottom of the aluminum pot. Always use the provided canning racks to keep jars elevated and prevent the food from reacting with the metal. No Bleach: Never use chlorine bleach on your Presto 01755. Bleach is extremely corrosive to aluminum and will cause rapid, deep pitting that can compromise the safety of the pressure vessel. Dry Storage: Always store your canner with the lid inverted (upside down) on top of the pot. This prevents moisture from being trapped inside, which reduces the formation of oxidation spots during the off-season. Inspect Every Use: Before every canning session, visually inspect the bottom for "bulging" or actual holes. If the metal begins to warp or thin significantly, replace the unit immediately to avoid a catastrophic pressure failure.

Question 3

the little metal pin in the center of the lid, the air vent cover lock, it won't pop up after my canner cools down, lid is stuck locked, help?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The metal pin in the center of the Presto 01755 lid is a critical safety locking mechanism designed to prevent the lid from being opened while the unit is under pressure. When the pin is in the "up" or locked position, it indicates that there is still a pressure differential between the inside of the canner and the outside atmosphere. Even if your pressure gauge reads zero, a residual vacuum or a pocket of trapped steam can keep that pin engaged, effectively locking the lid's clamping mechanism. This occurs most frequently when the canner is packed to capacity with jars, which slows the cooling process and creates a larger volume of condensing steam. As the steam turns back into water, it creates a vacuum effect that pulls the locking pin tight against its seat. If you try to force the lid open while this pin is engaged, you risk bending the aluminum rim or damaging the locking pin assembly, which would compromise the safety of the unit for future uses. You can confirm this is the issue if the lid feels "suctioned" down and refuses to budge even with a firm grip. FIX Do not attempt to pry the lid open with a tool, as this will warp the aluminum. Follow these steps to safely release the locking pin: Check the pressure gauge. If it is not exactly at 0 psi, you must wait. If it is at zero but the pin is still up, proceed to the next step. Gently lift the weighted pressure regulator (the heavy metal weight) off the vent pipe for 2-3 seconds. This allows any remaining trapped air or steam to escape and breaks the vacuum seal. If the pin remains stuck, take a clean, damp kitchen towel and soak it in hot water. Wring it out and drape it directly over the lid, specifically centering it over the locking pin and the vent pipe. The heat helps expand the metal and condense any remaining vapor. Wait an additional 15 minutes. In a 16-quart model, the thermal mass of the aluminum is significant, and the center of the pot stays hot much longer than the exterior. Once the pin naturally drops (you will often hear a small "click" or see it settle), grasp the lid handles firmly and rotate the lid to unlock it. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Manual Venting: If the pin is stuck due to a physical jam rather than pressure, try gently tapping the top of the lid (around the pin area) with the handle of a wooden spoon. This vibration can often dislodge a pin that has become stuck due to food residue or mineral buildup from hard water. External Cooling: Carefully pour lukewarm water over the top of the lid, avoiding the gauge. This accelerates the cooling of the lid assembly relative to the base, which can sometimes trigger the pin to release. Do not use ice-cold water, as the rapid temperature shock can warp the aluminum. The "Gentle Rock" Method: While holding the lid, apply a very slight rocking motion from side to side. This shifts the alignment of the lid gasket and can allow a tiny amount of air to seep in, breaking the vacuum and allowing the pin to drop. Residue Cleaning: If the pin is stuck after the unit has completely cooled to room temperature, it is likely stuck due to "sugar-stick" or dried food splatter. Remove the lid and use a toothpick or a thin needle to clear any debris from around the base of the pin, then apply a drop of food-grade mineral oil to the pin shaft. HEADS UP Never use a screwdriver or pliers to force the locking pin down; the aluminum in the Presto 01755 is soft and easily deformed, which can lead to dangerous leaks during the next pressure cycle. Always inspect the rubber gasket for cracks or flattening. A degraded gasket can cause the lid to seal too tightly, making the vacuum effect more pronounced during cooling. Avoid "quick-releasing" the pressure by lifting the weight unless absolutely necessary, as this can cause liquids to boil over and clog the vent pipe, which is a primary cause of stuck pins. Periodically clean the vent pipe with a pipe cleaner to ensure there are no obstructions that could trap pressure inside the chamber.

Question 4

my canner's overpressure plug is kinda melted and deformed, do i need to worry about it or can i just keep using it?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The overpressure plug on your Presto 01755 is a critical safety fuse designed to prevent the pressure canner from becoming a catastrophic projectile. This plug is made of a specific low-melting-point alloy that is engineered to liquefy or deform at a precise temperature and pressure threshold. If the plug is already melted or deformed, it means the safety mechanism has been triggered—either by a previous overpressure event or by prolonged exposure to extreme heat—and the structural integrity of the seal is now compromised. When this plug is deformed, it can no longer provide a reliable seal, leading to "steam leaks" that prevent the canner from reaching the required 11 PSI (or the specific pressure needed for your altitude). More dangerously, if the plug has partially melted, it may not blow out correctly during a genuine emergency, or it may fail prematurely, causing a sudden, violent release of steam that can cause severe burns. You can confirm the failure by inspecting the plug for a concave dip, discoloration, or a "bubbled" appearance on the metal surface. If the plug is not perfectly flush and circular, it is functionally dead. FIX You must replace the overpressure plug before the next use. Do not attempt to hammer it flat or seal it with adhesives, as this creates a bomb-like scenario by removing the only failsafe in the lid. Follow these exact steps to replace it: Procure the Correct Part: Purchase a genuine Presto Overpressure Plug specifically compatible with the 16-quart aluminum series. Avoid generic "universal" plugs as the tolerances for the 01755 lid are precise. Remove the Damaged Plug: Turn the canner lid upside down. Locate the overpressure plug (the small metal disc). Using a blunt tool, such as the handle of a screwdriver or a wooden dowel, apply firm, steady pressure to the center of the deformed plug to push it out of the lid housing. Clear the Seat: Use a damp cloth and a small brush to clean the aperture where the plug sat. Ensure there are no remnants of melted alloy or food debris clinging to the rim of the hole, as this will prevent the new plug from seating properly. Insert New Plug: Place the new plug into the hole. Press it firmly with your thumb until you feel it "snap" or seat fully into the housing. It should be flush with the lid surface. Verify Seal: Before loading the canner, perform a "dry run" by filling it with water and heating it to see if steam escapes from the plug area before the pressure regulator begins to vent. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Lid Gasket: If you replaced the plug but the canner still won't reach pressure, your rubber gasket is likely the culprit. Inspect the gasket for cracks or "flattening." If it is over two years old, replace it with a new Presto 16-quart gasket to ensure a vacuum-tight seal. Inspect the Vent Pipe: A melted plug is often a symptom of a clogged vent pipe. Use a pipe cleaner or a thin wire to ensure the vent pipe (the tube the regulator sits on) is completely clear of debris. If the pipe is blocked, pressure builds up internally, forcing the overpressure plug to melt. Examine the Pressure Regulator: Ensure your regulator weight is not dented or corroded. A damaged regulator can cause the internal pressure to spike beyond the rated limit, which is exactly what triggers the overpressure plug to deform. Check for Lid Warping: If the plug continues to leak or deform despite replacement, place the lid on a flat granite countertop. If the lid rocks or doesn't sit flush, the aluminum has warped, and the entire lid assembly must be replaced for safety. HEADS UP Never Force the Lid: If the canner is difficult to lock, do not force it; ensure the gasket is seated correctly to avoid uneven pressure distribution. Altitude Adjustment: If you live at high altitudes, remember that your boiling point is lower; always use the correct weights to prevent over-pressurizing the system. Avoid Overfilling: Never fill the canner more than 3/4 full. Overfilling can lead to liquid being pushed into the vent pipe, causing a blockage that will melt your overpressure plug instantly. Visual Inspection: Make it a habit to inspect the overpressure plug every 5-10 uses. If you see any pitting or discoloration, replace it proactively.

Question 5

water keeps leaking out from under the lid of my pressure canner once it gets hot, before i even put the weight on, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A steady leak of water or steam from the rim of the lid before the pressure regulator (weight) is applied is an indication of a failure in the primary airtight seal. In a Presto 01755, this typically occurs because the gasket is not creating a uniform compression seal against the aluminum rim of the pot. While a tiny amount of "burping" is common as air escapes during the initial heat-up, a visible stream of water or constant hissing steam indicates that the internal pressure is escaping prematurely. This failure usually stems from one of three root causes: a displaced or degraded gasket, debris trapped in the sealing groove, or an unevenly tightened lid. Because the Presto 01755 uses a manual locking mechanism, if the lid is not rotated to the fully locked position, the gasket will not be compressed enough to hold the pressure. You can confirm the leak by observing the rim; if you see water bubbling out or steam escaping from a specific point on the circumference of the lid rather than the vent pipe, the seal is compromised. FIX To resolve the leak and ensure a safe, pressurized environment for canning, follow these precise steps: Turn off the heat source and allow the canner to cool completely. Never attempt to open a pressurized lid, as this can cause a violent release of steam and contents. Carefully lift the lid and remove the silicone gasket from the groove. Inspect the gasket for any cracks, tears, or "flattening" (where the rubber has lost its elasticity and no longer bounces back). Use a damp cloth and a soft brush to clean the entire circumference of the lid's sealing groove. Even a small piece of food debris or a grain of salt trapped in the groove can create a gap large enough for steam to escape. Inspect the rim of the pot itself. Ensure there are no dents or scratches on the top edge of the aluminum where the gasket meets the metal. Reinstall the gasket, ensuring it is seated flat in the groove. Press firmly around the entire circle to make sure there are no twists or pinched sections. Place the lid on the pot and rotate it clockwise to lock. Ensure the lid is fully seated and that the locking tabs are completely engaged. Do not over-tighten to the point of warping the aluminum, but ensure it is snug. Refill the pot with the required amount of water (typically 2-3 inches) and bring it to a boil again to test the seal before adding the weight. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Replace the Gasket: If the gasket looks intact but still leaks, the silicone may have hardened over time. Purchase a genuine Presto replacement gasket specifically for the 16-quart model. Avoid generic "one size fits all" gaskets, as the diameter must be exact to maintain tension. Check for Lid Warpage: Place the lid on a completely flat surface (like a granite countertop). If the lid wobbles or doesn't sit flush, the aluminum may have warped due to overheating or a drop. A warped lid cannot be fixed and requires a replacement lid assembly to ensure safety. Inspect the Vent Pipe: Ensure the vent pipe (the small tube the weight sits on) is clear of debris. If the pipe is clogged, pressure can build up unevenly and force its way out through the gasket seal rather than the vent. Use a thin wire or pipe cleaner to clear the hole. Verify Water Levels: If the pot is overfilled, boiling water can surge upward and "wash over" the seal during the initial heating phase, mimicking a leak. Ensure you are following the specific water-depth requirements for your recipe. HEADS UP Gasket Lubrication: Lightly coating the gasket with a tiny amount of vegetable oil can help it seat more effectively and prevent it from sticking or twisting during the locking process. Avoid Over-tightening: The Presto 01755 is made of aluminum; applying excessive force to the locking mechanism can strip the threads or warp the rim, leading to permanent leaks. Storage Tip: When not in use, store the lid upside down or remove the gasket entirely. Leaving the gasket compressed under a stored lid for months can lead to permanent "flat spots" that cause leaks. Safety Warning: If you hear a loud whistling sound coming from the rim rather than the vent pipe, immediately turn off the heat. A failing seal can lead to a dangerous drop in internal temperature, which may result in under-processed food and botulism risks.

Question 6

the pressure gauge on my presto canner is reading way higher than the regulator weight should allow, like 20 psi when i'm using the 15 lb weight, is it broken?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Presto 01755 utilizes a dual-system approach to pressure management: a physical weighted regulator (the "jiggler") and a visual pressure gauge. The weighted regulator is the primary safety and control mechanism. Because it relies on gravity and a specific mass (15 lbs), it physically cannot allow the internal pressure to exceed its rated limit unless the vent pipe is obstructed. If your 15 lb weight is dancing or venting steam, but the gauge reads 20 PSI, the gauge is out of calibration or has a mechanical failure. This discrepancy typically occurs due to "gauge drift," where the internal Bourdon tube (the curved metal tube that expands under pressure) loses its elasticity or becomes skewed. It can also happen if the gauge was dropped or exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations during storage. To confirm the gauge is the culprit, observe the regulator weight; if the weight is actively venting steam while the gauge reads 20 PSI, the pressure inside is actually 11-15 PSI, and the gauge is simply lying to you. If the weight is sitting perfectly still and silent while the gauge reads 20 PSI, you have a dangerous over-pressure situation caused by a clogged vent pipe. FIX Since the gauge is an accessory and not the primary pressure control, the fix involves verifying the vent path and replacing the faulty component. Follow these steps precisely: Allow the canner to cool completely and ensure the pressure has dropped to zero. Remove the lid and set it on a flat surface. Unscrew the pressure gauge by rotating it counter-clockwise. Inspect the threaded port where the gauge seats. Using a thin pipe cleaner or a small 1/16" drill bit (by hand, not powered), gently clear any debris, mineral deposits, or food particles from the small orifice leading from the pot interior to the gauge mounting point. Inspect the rubber gasket or seal on the gauge thread. If it is cracked or pinched, the gauge may be reading erratic pressure due to air leaks. Since the Presto 01755 gauge is not field-calibratable, you must replace it if it continues to read 5+ PSI above the regulator weight. Purchase a genuine Presto replacement gauge (Part #01755-G) to ensure the threading and seating match the aluminum lid perfectly. Install the new gauge, ensuring it is snug but not over-tightened, as over-torquing can warp the aluminum threads of the lid. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Vent Pipe for Obstructions. If the regulator weight is NOT venting but the gauge reads 20 PSI, the vent pipe is clogged. Remove the regulator weight and use a paperclip or a thin wire to poke through the vent pipe to clear any trapped food particles or mineral buildup. This is a critical safety step. Verify the Weight Mass. Ensure you are using the genuine Presto 15 lb weight. If you are using a generic or third-party weight that is heavier than the factory specification, it will actually allow the pressure to rise higher than 11-15 PSI, which would make the gauge reading accurate and the weight the problem. Inspect the Lid Seal. A leaking lid gasket can sometimes cause turbulent airflow near the gauge port, leading to erratic readings. If the lid is leaking steam from the sides, replace the gasket before trusting the gauge. Test with a Different Heat Source. If you are using a high-BTU outdoor burner, the rapid heat-up can cause "pressure spikes" that the gauge picks up but the weight compensates for slowly. Lower the heat to a steady simmer once the weight begins to dance. HEADS UP Always trust the weighted regulator over the gauge. The weight is a physical constant; the gauge is an electronic or mechanical estimate. Never attempt to "calibrate" the gauge by opening the casing; this destroys the seal and renders the tool useless for food safety. Clean the vent pipe with a wire every 5-10 uses to prevent pressure buildup that could trigger the emergency safety plug. Avoid using the canner if the gauge is missing or broken if you are processing low-acid foods, as the gauge provides the necessary confirmation that the pot has reached the required temperature for botulism prevention.

Question 7

the black rubber gasket on my pressure canner lid is sticky and gross, can i just clean it with bleach or something?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The stickiness you are experiencing with the Presto 01755 gasket is caused by a process called polymer degradation. The gasket is made of a specialized food-grade elastomer designed to withstand high heat and pressure. Over time, the rubber absorbs aerosolized fats, oils from canning produce, and minerals from hard water. When these substances bake into the material during the high-heat sterilization process, they create a tacky, resinous film that attracts dust and debris. This is not just a surface-level dirt issue; the oils have chemically bonded with the surface of the rubber. If the gasket feels "melted" or tacky even after a basic wash, it indicates that the surface tension of the elastomer has been compromised. You can confirm this by rubbing a clean white paper towel over the gasket; if it leaves a brownish, oily residue or if the towel "drags" rather than glides, the gasket is saturated with organic compounds that require more than a simple rinse to remove. Avoid using bleach. Bleach is an oxidizing agent that can dry out the elastomer, leading to micro-cracks (crazing) in the seal. These cracks create leak points that can cause the pressure regulator to flutter or, worse, lead to a complete seal failure during a high-pressure canning cycle. FIX To restore the gasket and ensure a safe, airtight seal for your 16-quart canner, follow this deep-cleaning protocol: Carefully pry the gasket out of the lid groove using a blunt plastic tool or your fingers. Do not use a metal screwdriver, as scratches in the aluminum lid groove can cause permanent leaks. Fill a basin with warm water and a concentrated grease-cutting dish soap (such as Dawn Platinum). Submerge the gasket and let it soak for 30 minutes to loosen the baked-on oils. Scrub the gasket using a soft-bristled nylon brush or a clean cloth. Focus on the inner lip that makes contact with the pot rim, as this is where the most residue accumulates. Prepare a degreasing soak: Mix one part white distilled vinegar with three parts warm water. Submerge the gasket for 20 minutes. The acetic acid in the vinegar breaks down the alkaline mineral deposits and remaining grease. Rinse the gasket under cool running water until all soap and vinegar scents are gone. Dry the gasket completely with a lint-free towel. Do not apply any oils, lotions, or petroleum jelly to the gasket, as these will degrade the rubber and cause it to fail. Inspect the aluminum groove in the lid for debris. Wipe it clean with a damp cloth before pressing the gasket firmly back into place, ensuring there are no twists or overlaps in the rubber. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Baking Soda Paste: If the stickiness persists, create a thick paste using two parts baking soda and one part water. Apply the paste to the tacky areas of the gasket and let it sit for an hour. The mild abrasive nature of the soda lifts stubborn residues without scarring the rubber. Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe: For localized "sticky spots," dampen a cotton ball with 70% isopropyl alcohol and wipe the surface quickly. This strips away stubborn resins. Be careful not to soak the gasket in alcohol, as it can cause the rubber to harden and lose its elasticity. Full Replacement: If the gasket remains tacky or feels brittle after these steps, the polymer has reached the end of its life cycle. Replace the seal with a genuine Presto replacement gasket. A degraded gasket will not maintain the 10-15 PSI required for safe botulism prevention in low-acid canning. Groove Degreasing: Sometimes the stickiness is actually coming from the aluminum lid groove rather than the gasket itself. Use a Q-tip dipped in white vinegar to scrub the entire circumference of the lid's sealing channel to remove old, gummy residues. HEADS UP Annual Replacement: Gaskets are wear-and-tear items. Even if they look fine, the rubber loses its "memory" over time. Replace your gasket every 1-2 years to ensure a perfect seal. Avoid Abrasives: Never use steel wool or scouring pads on the gasket or the rim of the canner. Any scratch in the aluminum rim can cause a steam leak that prevents the canner from reaching the required pressure. Storage Tip: When storing the canner between seasons, do not leave the lid tightly locked. This puts constant compression on the gasket, which can lead to permanent flattening (set) and eventual leaking. Visual Inspection: Before every single use, run your finger along the gasket to check for cracks, pits, or "flat spots" that could compromise the seal.

Question 8

my presto pressure canner won't come up to pressure, the regulator just kinda rocks but the gauge stays at zero, what's up?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS When the regulator (the weighted gauge) is rocking but the pressure gauge remains at zero, you are experiencing a "false positive" of pressure. The rocking occurs because steam is escaping through a leak, creating enough localized airflow to move the weight, but not enough internal atmospheric pressure to actually compress the air inside the vessel. In the Presto 01755, this is almost always caused by a failure in the primary seal or a blockage in the vent pipe that is allowing steam to bypass the regulator. To confirm this, perform a "soap test." While the canner is heating, carefully spray a mixture of dish soap and water around the rim of the lid where it meets the pot. If you see a curtain of bubbles forming rapidly, the gasket is failing. If the bubbles are coming from the area around the locking lugs, the lid is not fully engaged. If the regulator is rocking but you see steam escaping from the sides of the lid rather than just the vent pipe, the vessel is unable to reach the 10-11 PSI required for canning. FIX Immediately turn off the heat source and wait for the unit to cool completely. Never attempt to open a pressure canner while the regulator is still rocking or the gauge shows any pressure. Remove the lid and extract the rubber sealing gasket from the lid's groove. Inspect the gasket for "flat spots," cracks, or food debris. If the gasket feels brittle or has a visible tear, replace it with a genuine Presto replacement part. Clean the rim of the aluminum pot and the groove of the lid using a damp cloth and mild soap. Even a single grain of salt or a piece of food stuck in the rim can create a microscopic gap that prevents a full seal. Reinsert the gasket, ensuring it is pressed firmly into the groove all the way around. Ensure there are no twists or overlaps in the rubber. Check the vent pipe. Use a pipe cleaner or a thin wire to ensure the hole leading from the pot to the regulator is completely clear of debris. If this pipe is partially clogged, steam will build up in the lid area and leak out the sides rather than pushing the regulator up. Place the lid back on the canner and rotate the handle fully to the locked position. Ensure the locking lugs are fully engaged and the lid does not wiggle when pushed. Fill the canner with the required amount of water (usually 2-3 inches), lock the lid, and turn the heat to high. Wait for the regulator to rock steadily for 10 minutes before reducing heat to maintain the rock. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Gauge Connection: If the regulator is rocking strongly and the lid is clearly sealed (no steam escaping the sides), but the gauge still reads zero, the gauge itself is likely defective or the internal capillary tube is blocked. Try swapping the gauge with a known working one to see if the needle moves. Check for Lid Warpage: Place the lid on a completely flat surface (like a granite countertop). Press down on the edges; if the lid rocks or wobbles, the aluminum has warped from overheating. A warped lid cannot create a vacuum-tight seal regardless of the gasket condition. Verify Heat Output: If you are using an electric coil stove, ensure the pot is centered perfectly over the burner. If the heat is uneven, the water may not be boiling vigorously enough to create the necessary steam volume to lift the weight and register on the gauge simultaneously. Replace the Regulator Weight: Ensure you are using the correct weight for the 01755 model. If the weight is damaged or has a hole drilled in the bottom, it will not create the necessary backpressure to register on the gauge. HEADS UP Never use a screwdriver or pliers to force the lid shut; this will bend the locking lugs and permanently ruin the seal. Store the canner with the lid upside down or slightly ajar. Storing it locked with the gasket compressed for months at a time causes the rubber to develop permanent flat spots. Always replace the sealing gasket every 1-2 years, even if it looks okay, as the rubber degrades over time due to high-heat exposure. Avoid using metal scrubbers on the rim of the pot, as scratches in the aluminum can create leak paths that the gasket cannot fill.

Presto 01755 16-Quart Aluminum Pressure Canner and Cooker

Other Small Appliances