Question 1

my presto canner makes a loud, scary rattling or chattering noise when the pressure regulator weight is rocking, is that okay?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, that's usually fine, but it's annoying. The noise is the weighted regulator dancing on top of the vent pipe as steam escapes. It can chatter if the steam flow is very vigorous or if the weight isn't sitting perfectly flat. FIX First, make sure you're using the correct heat level. Once the regulator is rocking steadily, you should reduce the heat to the lowest setting that maintains a consistent, gentle rock—about 1-3 rocks per minute. A frantic, loud rock means your burner is too high. Turning it down will often quiet it significantly. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The three-piece regulator weight (the one with separate 5, 10, and 15 lb pieces) can sometimes vibrate apart. Make sure all the pieces are screwed together tightly. Also, check that the vent pipe (the post it sits on) is clean and straight. A bent pipe can cause an uneven, noisy rock. HEADS UP Don't be tempted to hold the weight down or muffle it with a towel—it needs to move freely to regulate pressure. The noise is normal, but if it suddenly changes to a hissing scream, that could indicate a clogged vent pipe. In that case, turn off the heat immediately and let it depressurize completely before investigating.

Question 2

i see a bunch of tiny pinholes or dark spots on the inside bottom of my aluminum pressure canner, is it still safe to use or is it corroded?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Those are likely just spots where the natural aluminum oxide layer has been disturbed or where minor pitting has occurred from contact with acidic or salty foods. Pure aluminum is very reactive, and this is a common appearance after use. FIX It's probably still safe functionally. Clean it well with hot, soapy water and a non-abrasive sponge. To help protect it, you can "season" the interior: after cleaning, dry it thoroughly, then heat it on the stove with a couple tablespoons of cooking oil inside, swishing it around until it smokes lightly. Let it cool, then wipe out excess oil. This creates a thin, polymerized layer that can reduce further direct contact. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the pitting is deep, numerous, or you can actually feel holes, the structural integrity might be compromised. Aluminum can corrode through if exposed to strong chlorides (like canning salt without a protective liner of water) or stored damp. If you're in doubt, retire it. HEADS UP Always use the recommended amount of water in the bottom to create a buffer between the jars and the metal. Never store food directly in the canner, and always dry it completely after washing. Avoid using harsh alkaline cleaners (like some dishwasher detergents) or leaving acidic residues (tomato sauce, vinegar) sitting in it for long periods.

Question 3

the little metal pin in the center of the lid, the air vent cover lock, it won't pop up after my canner cools down, lid is stuck locked, help?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is usually because there's still a vacuum (negative pressure) inside the canner. The pin is supposed to drop when pressure is equalized, signaling it's safe to unlock. If it's stuck up, pressure isn't equal. FIX Don't force it. Just wait longer. Sometimes it can take an extra 10-30 minutes after the gauge hits zero for everything to fully equalize, especially with a large, full load. You can also very gently nudge the weighted regulator on the vent pipe to see if a tiny bit of air hisses in or out—if air whispers in, that confirms a vacuum. Let it sit until the pin freely drops. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The pin itself might be sticking due to mineral deposits. Once the lid is finally off and cool, lift the pin and work it up and down. Clean it and its housing with vinegar or a descaling solution to remove any hard water buildup. A drop of food-safe mineral oil on the shaft can help it move freely. HEADS UP Never try to cool the canner rapidly by running cold water over it to force this pin down—that can warp the aluminum lid or base. Also, never use tools to pry the lid open while the pin is up; you'll damage the locking mechanism. Patience is the only safe tool here.

Question 4

my canner's overpressure plug is kinda melted and deformed, do i need to worry about it or can i just keep using it?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You need to worry about it, and you absolutely cannot keep using it. That plug is a critical safety device—it's designed to melt and blow out if pressure gets dangerously high, preventing an explosion. If it's already deformed, its integrity is compromised. FIX Replace it immediately. For the Presto 01755, you need a new Presto Safety Overpressure Plug. Turn the lid over, push the old, deformed plug out of its hole from the inside. Clean the hole. Take the new plug, wet it with a little water (this helps it seat), and press it firmly into the hole from the inside of the lid until the flange is flush. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK There's no alternative; a damaged plug must be replaced. If the plug keeps deforming under normal use, your heat source is way too high for pressure canning, or the pressure control system (gauge and regulator) is failing to vent steam. Address that root cause after replacing the plug. HEADS UP This is not a optional part. You must check this plug before every use. If it's cracked, soft, or looks different from a fresh one, replace it. They're cheap insurance. Never, ever attempt to seal or block this hole with anything else.

Question 5

water keeps leaking out from under the lid of my pressure canner once it gets hot, before i even put the weight on, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS A little moisture or a few droplets during initial heating can happen, but a steady stream or drip from the lid seam is not normal. It means the seal isn't made, usually because the gasket isn't seated or the lid isn't locked down evenly. FIX Let it depressurize and cool slightly, then unlock. Check the silicone sealing gasket thoroughly. Make sure it's not pinched, twisted, or has a section popped out of its groove. Clean the groove and the gasket. Also, inspect the lid and base rim for any food particles or nicks. When re-closing, ensure the lid handle is directly aligned over the base handle before pushing the lock down. This ensures even pressure on the gasket. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The leak might be coming from the vent pipe (the short tube the regulator sits on) if the pipe itself is loose. With the canner cool, check if the vent pipe screws into the lid tightly. If it's loose, you can gently tighten it with pliers, but be careful not to crush or cross-thread the aluminum. HEADS UP If water is actively forcing its way out, don't continue trying to bring it to pressure. A failed seal means it won't build pressure correctly, making canning unsafe. Always start with a couple inches of hot water in the bottom, but ensure it's not overfilled—too much water can boil over and exacerbate leakage issues.

Question 6

the pressure gauge on my presto canner is reading way higher than the regulator weight should allow, like 20 psi when i'm using the 15 lb weight, is it broken?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's a sign the gauge itself is out of calibration, which happens. The weighted regulator controls the actual pressure by venting excess steam; the gauge is just a visual indicator. If they disagree, trust the weight. A faulty gauge reading high is a typical failure mode. FIX First, test for a clog. With the canner cool and depressurized, remove the gauge by unscrewing it from the lid (it just screws in). Look at the small hole on the underside—use a fine wire or pin to gently clear any mineral deposits or food particles from the gauge's inlet. Reinstall it and do a water-only test run to see if the reading is more reasonable. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's still reading high (or low), the gauge's internal mechanism is likely faulty. Gauges on these canners are not user-repairable. You need to replace the entire pressure gauge assembly with a genuine Presto part made for this model. HEADS UP Canning at an incorrectly perceived high pressure isn't necessarily unsafe if you're using the weighted regulator correctly, as that's what actually limits the pressure. However, for accurate processing, especially with low-acid foods, you should get the gauge replaced or tested. Some county extension offices offer gauge testing services.

Question 7

the black rubber gasket on my pressure canner lid is sticky and gross, can i just clean it with bleach or something?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, this one's common. The silicone sealing gasket absorbs oils and residues over time, getting tacky. It's not supposed to feel like that. FIX Remove the gasket from its groove in the lid. Wash it in warm, soapy water—dish soap is fine. To deep clean it, you can soak it in a solution of one part white household vinegar to three parts warm water for 15-20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Let it air dry completely before putting it back. That should cut the grease and restore the surface. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's still sticky or has become stiff, cracked, or misshapen, it's done. It's a wear item. Order a new Presto replacement sealing ring (the part that fits the 16-quart aluminum canner). Don't try to use the canner with a compromised gasket; it won't seal properly. HEADS UP Never use bleach or harsh chemical cleaners on the gasket. It can degrade the silicone. Also, never store the lid with the gasket compressed in place for long periods. Store it separately or at least unlocked to prolong its life.

Question 8

my presto pressure canner won't come up to pressure, the regulator just kinda rocks but the gauge stays at zero, what's up?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is almost always an issue with the seal, or you're just not getting enough heat into it yet. The gauge reads internal pressure, while the regulator rocks on steam flow. If they're not matching, the lid isn't sealed tight. FIX Turn off the heat and let it depressurize completely. Unlock and lift the lid. Check that the silicone sealing gasket is seated perfectly in its groove all the way around—no twists or gaps. Clean any debris off the sealing surfaces. Close it back up, make sure the lid handle aligns directly over the base handle, and lock it down firmly. Start over with high heat until a steady stream of steam comes out the vent pipe, then time your 10 minutes of venting before putting the regulator on. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's still not sealing, the gasket itself might be old and hardened. On the Presto 01755, the gasket is a replaceable part that can lose its pliability over time, especially if it's stored compressed in the lid. A new sealing gasket usually solves a persistent no-pressure issue. HEADS UP Never force the lid open or closed if there's any pressure left. The locking lugs are aluminum and can bend. Always wait for the gauge to read zero and for the air vent/cover lock to drop down completely before unlocking.

Presto 01755 16-Quart Aluminum Pressure Canner and Cooker

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