Question 1

the grease drain hole on my highland gets clogged instantly, grease just pools on the bottom plate. what's the trick?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, this one's common. The hole is small and grease cools and solidifies quickly, especially if it has to travel across the cool bottom plate to get to it. FIX The best fix is to create a better path. Get a small, disposable aluminum drip pan (like a loaf pan or a small steam table pan). Place it directly under the drain hole on the bottom plate. The grease drips into the pan instead of running across the metal. When you're done, just toss the pan or empty it. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Some people drill out the drain hole to a slightly larger diameter (like 1/2 inch) and attach a short section of metal pipe or a nipple as a spout to direct grease straight into a bucket. This is a more permanent mod. HEADS UP Don't let grease pool in the bottom of the cook chamber—it's a fire hazard if it gets too hot and ignites. The drip pan method is the safest and easiest. Just make sure the pan isn't directly under a huge heat source from the firebox.

Question 2

i followed the instructions for seasoning but now the inside of my cook chamber has these orange rust streaks, did i mess up?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You didn't mess up—this is flash rust, and it's normal on bare steel after its first exposure to heat and moisture if the oil coating wasn't perfectly even or thick enough. FIX Don't panic. Just do another round of seasoning. Heat the smoker up to around 250-275°F. Apply a very thin, even coat of a high-smoke-point oil (like canola, grapeseed, or flaxseed) to all interior surfaces using a rag or paper towel. Let it smoke for an hour or two, then let it cool. The oil will polymerize over the rust, sealing it. You might need to do this 2-3 times. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the rust is thick or scaly, you may need to lightly sand the area with fine steel wool (like 000 grade) to knock off the loose bits before reapplying oil. The goal is to get back to bare, smooth metal before seasoning. HEADS UP Never use cooking spray (Pam) for seasoning—the propellants and additives can leave a sticky residue. Plain liquid oil is the way. A little rust here and there won't hurt the food, but you want a stable, blackened seasoning layer for protection.

Question 3

my smokestack is rattling like crazy in the wind, how do i get it to shut up?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The smokestack on the Highland is a slip-fit into a hole on the cook chamber. There's no locking mechanism, so wind or vibration can make it chatter in its socket. FIX The simplest fix is to get a small metal hose clamp (worm gear clamp). Open it up, wrap it around the base of the smokestack where it meets the cook chamber body, and tighten it down just enough to pinch the stack slightly against the side of the hole. This takes up the slack. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the fit is really loose, you can add some high-temperature RTV silicone (the grey stuff) around the base of the stack before inserting it. Let it cure fully—this acts as both a gasket and an adhesive. The clamp method is easier to reverse, though. HEADS UP Don't weld it or permanently attach it unless you're sure you never want to remove it for cleaning or transport. Also, make sure the damper on the stack itself is also tightened down—that's another common rattle spot.

Question 4

the paint on my firebox is bubbling and peeling after a few hot fires, is that normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Unfortunately, yeah, it's a common gripe with the Highland. The firebox gets much hotter than the cook chamber, and the standard black paint isn't always up to sustained, high-temperature use. FIX Let it cool completely, then scrape off all the loose, flaky paint with a wire brush or scraper. Once you're down to bare metal or stable paint, you need high-temperature paint. Get a spray can of Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat (rated for up to 1200°F). Apply thin, even coats, letting it dry between coats. Then, you need to cure it by running a very small, gradual fire to bake the paint on before a full cook. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it keeps happening, the underlying issue might be that you're running too hot a fire for too long right against the firebox walls. Try building your fire more towards the center of the box, not pushed up against the sides. HEADS UP This is purely cosmetic rust protection. Don't use any paint on the interior of the cook chamber or firebox—only the outside. And do the painting in a well-ventilated area, obviously.

Question 5

i can't get my highland reverse flow plate clean, it's got this crusty black stuff welded on from the last brisket.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's baked-on grease and carbon, and it's actually doing part of its job—the reverse flow plate is a seasoning layer. But too much gunk can affect heat reflection and airflow. FIX After your cook, while the smoker is still warm (not scorching hot), scrape the plate with a sturdy putty knife or a dedicated grill scraper. For a deeper clean, once it's cooled, you can take it out (it's heavy, get help). Lay it on some concrete or a tarp, hit it with a degreaser (like Simple Green or a citrus-based cleaner), let it soak, then scrub with a stiff brush and rinse. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK For really stubborn deposits, some people carefully use a propane torch to burn off the crud, then scrape. This is messy and smoky, so do it outside away from anything flammable. HEADS UP Don't use oven cleaner or harsh chemicals unless you plan to re-season the entire smoker thoroughly afterwards, as they can strip all seasoning and leave a residue. A little carbon buildup is fine and helps with even heating.

Question 6

the temperature gauge on the lid of my highland is reading way lower than my digital probe, which one should i trust?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Trust your digital probe. The analog dial thermometer on the lid is notoriously inaccurate on many offset smokers, often reading 25-50°F lower than the actual grate temperature. FIX Don't try to fix the lid thermometer—just ignore it for cooking. Get a good dual-channel digital probe thermometer. Place one probe at grate level, about an inch from the meat and away from the direct heat flow from the firebox. Use that reading to manage your fire. The second probe goes in your meat. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If you're determined to have a working lid gauge, you can buy a higher-quality replacement (like a Tel-Tru) and install it in the same hole. You'll need to know the thread size, but it's a straightforward swap. HEADS UP The lid temp is also measuring the hottest spot—the top of the chamber. Your cooking surface is cooler. That gradient is normal, but the inaccuracy of the stock gauge makes it useless for precise control.

Question 7

just assembled my highland reverse flow and the firebox door is crazy tight, like i have to yank it open. did i put it on wrong?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, this one's common. The firebox door hinge pins are often installed too tightly at the factory, binding the door before the latch even engages. FIX Grab a hammer and a punch or a thick nail. You'll see the ends of the hinge pins on the outside of the firebox. Give one a few solid taps to drive it out just a millimeter or two—don't knock it all the way out. Do the same to the other pin. This loosens the hinge's grip. Open and close the door a bunch of times to work it in. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's still stiff, the issue might be the latch hook bending inward and grabbing too hard. With the door open, use pliers to gently bend the hook on the door outward, away from the firebox, just a tiny bit. HEADS UP Wear gloves when you do this—those edges are sharp. And go easy on the bending; metal fatigue is real. A little adjustment goes a long way.

Question 8

my oklahoma joe highland smoker leaks a ton of smoke from the door and chimney connection, can't hold temp at all.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Highland's firebox and cook chamber doors aren't famous for a perfect seal from the factory. The gaps let air in, which messes with your airflow and makes temperature control impossible. FIX You need to seal it. The go-to move is high-heat food-grade silicone gasket rope, like Lavalock. Clean the door edges with rubbing alcohol, let it dry, then run a continuous bead of the gasket adhesive (included with most kits) around the inner lip of the door frame. Press the rope into it, close the door, and let it cure for a few hours before firing it up. This creates a compressible seal. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If you still have a major leak, check that the door itself isn't warped. You can sometimes adjust the latch mechanism to pull it tighter, but a warped door might need more persuasion (gentle bending with a mallet and block of wood) or a warranty claim. HEADS UP Don't use the smoker while the adhesive is curing—the fumes are nasty. Also, after sealing, your airflow control changes. You'll need to use the intake damper on the firebox more precisely since less air is sneaking in elsewhere.

Oklahoma Joe Highland Reverse Flow Smoker

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