Question 1

the wheels on my grill are totally seized up and won't turn, how do i move this thing now?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The plastic wheel hubs on these grills are notorious for seizing, especially if left outside. The axle rusts, the plastic warps, and they just lock solid. FIX You'll likely need to replace them. The wheels are usually held on by a push-on retaining clip or a cotter pin. Remove the old wheels. Before installing new ones, clean any rust off the metal axles with sandpaper and apply a light coat of silicone lubricant or grease to the axle to prevent it from happening again. Char-Broil sells official replacement wheel kits. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the axle itself is so rusted it's damaged the mounting bracket, you might need a more involved repair. In a pinch, you can lift the front of the grill (with help) and slide a furniture dolly under the leg to move it. HEADS UP When you get new wheels, consider slightly larger, all-terrain replacements if you need to move the grill over grass or gravel. The stock wheels are pretty basic. Keeping the grill under a cover slows, but doesn't always stop, this particular failure.

Question 2

i smell gas around my grill even when the knobs are off, is that dangerous?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yes, that's dangerous and needs immediate attention. A gas smell with knobs off indicates a leak in the fuel delivery system—likely at the tank connection, the regulator hose, or a faulty valve. FIX First, turn the propane tank valve OFF. Do not attempt to use the grill. Mix a solution of dish soap and water. With the tank valve ON (but all grill knobs OFF), brush the soapy solution over all gas connections: where the hose connects to the tank, where the hose connects to the manifold, and around the base of each control valve. Look for bubbles forming, which pinpoint the leak. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If you can't find an obvious leak at the connections, the issue could be internal, like a cracked manifold or a leaking valve seat. At this point, stop troubleshooting and contact Char-Broil customer service or a qualified gas appliance technician. Do not use the grill. HEADS UP Never, ever use a flame to check for a gas leak. The soapy water test is the safe, standard method. If you ever hear a hissing sound or smell gas strongly, turn off the tank valve, move away, and don't operate any electrical switches nearby.

Question 3

the side burner on my performance grill won't stay lit, it goes out as soon as i let go of the knob

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The side burner has a separate thermocouple safety valve. If it doesn't sense a flame heating it up within a few seconds, it shuts the gas off. The flame might not be hitting the thermocouple tip, or the thermocouple itself is bad. FIX Locate the thermocouple. It's a small copper rod with a metal tip that should sit directly in the pilot flame or the main burner flame. Make sure it hasn't bent away from the flame path. While holding the control knob in, light the burner. Keep holding it for a good 30-45 seconds after lighting to let the thermocouple get hot enough to signal the valve to stay open. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The thermocouple might be faulty. You can test it (carefully) by holding a lighter flame directly to its tip for 60 seconds while holding the knob in. If it stays lit after you remove the lighter, the burner's flame alignment is off. If it still goes out, the thermocouple needs replacement. HEADS UP The side burner is more susceptible to wind blowing the flame away from the thermocouple. Try to use it in a sheltered spot or on a calm day. Also, spiders love these tubes too—check for webs clogging the burner ports.

Question 4

my grill takes forever to get up to like 400 degrees, it used to heat up way faster

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Sluggish heating is almost always a fuel flow problem. The usual suspects are a tripped regulator (see the temperature question), a nearly empty propane tank, or clogged burner ports restricting the flame size. FIX First, perform the full regulator reset procedure described earlier. If that doesn't restore strong blue flames, check your propane tank level. Swap in a full tank as a test. If you still have weak flames, your burner tubes likely need the cleaning procedure—clogged ports mean less gas is being combusted, so less heat is generated. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the venturi tubes—the parts that mix air and gas right behind the control knobs. Make sure they are fully seated into the control valves and that the air shutters (little metal flaps on the tubes) aren't blocked. An improper air mix can lead to lazy, inefficient flames. HEADS UP Weigh your propane tank. A standard 20 lb tank weighs about 38 lbs when full and 18 lbs when empty. If you're below 25 lbs, you're running on fumes for high-heat cooking. Cold weather also reduces tank pressure, making heating slower.

Question 5

rust is forming really fast on the bottom of the firebox and the grease tray, is this normal?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Unfortunately, it's a frequent complaint. The steel used for the firebox and the grease management system isn't stainless, so it's prone to surface rust, especially if moisture and grease sit in the tray. FIX For the grease tray, empty it after every few uses. For existing surface rust, pull the tray out, scrub it with a wire brush to remove loose rust, and coat it lightly with a high-heat cooking oil (like canola) to create a barrier. For the firebox interior, after a hot grill session, use a stiff brush to knock off any flaking material. There's not much you can permanently do for the exterior paint, but keeping a cover on it is key. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the rust is perforating the metal (creating holes), the parts are failing. Char-Broil sells replacement grease trays and flavorizer bars. The main firebox is harder to replace and might mean considering a new grill if it's structurally compromised. HEADS UP The single best thing you can do is use a fitted, waterproof grill cover and keep the grill in a dry location. Letting rain pool in the grease tray is a surefire way to accelerate rust.

Question 6

the temperature on my grill is all over the place, it won't hold a steady heat even on low

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Yeah, this one's common. Unstable temperatures are usually a regulator issue. The propane tank's regulator has a safety feature that trips if it senses a sudden gas flow (like opening a valve too fast), causing it to severely restrict flow, which leads to weak, fluctuating flames. FIX Do a full regulator reset. Turn all the grill control knobs to OFF. Close the valve on your propane tank. Disconnect the tank hose from the grill. Wait about 60 seconds. Reconnect the hose to the grill. Now, slowly open the propane tank valve all the way. Wait another 30 seconds, then light the grill, starting with the first burner and turning the knob slowly. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the problem persists, check for a kink or severe bend in the flexible propane hose between the tank and the grill. A pinched hose will restrict flow. Also, ensure your propane tank isn't nearly empty, as low fuel can cause pressure drops. HEADS UP Never, ever open the propane tank valve with a grill control knob already in the ON position. Always follow the sequence: tank valve on first, then light the grill. Doing it backwards is a prime way to trigger the regulator safety lockout.

Question 7

one burner on my performance series grill flames up really high and yellow, the others are fine, what's up with that?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS That's a classic sign of a clogged burner tube. Grease, spider webs, or food debris is blocking some of the ports, forcing the gas to find only a few exits, which creates a high-pressure, sooty yellow flame. FIX Turn off the gas and disconnect the propane tank. Remove the grates and flavorizer bars to expose the burners. The problematic burner is held by a couple of screws. Take it out. Use a grill brush, a straightened wire coat hanger, or a specific burner cleaning tool to clear out every single port along the tube. Blow through it to dislodge any loose debris before reinstalling. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The issue might be a faulty control valve for that specific burner. If the burner tube is clean but the flame pattern is still erratic and only on that one, the valve orifice (the small brass piece the gas comes through) could be damaged. You'd likely need to replace the entire valve assembly for that burner. HEADS UP Regularly cleaning your burner tubes at the start and end of the grilling season is the best prevention for this. Spiders love to nest in those dark, cozy tubes over the winter.

Question 8

my char broil performance grill won't light at all, i turn the knob and just get a clicking sound but no flame

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS You've got ignition clicks but no fire. The most common culprit is a dead or dying AA battery in the electronic igniter module. That clicking is the spark generator working, but without enough juice, the spark is too weak to jump the gap at the electrode. FIX Pop open the battery compartment on the front control panel—it's usually a little plastic door. Swap out the single AA battery for a fresh one. Make sure the battery's positive end is facing the correct direction (the diagram's inside the compartment). After replacing, try lighting again with the lid open so any built-up gas can dissipate. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If you still get clicks but no flame, the electrode tip at the burner might be corroded or misaligned. Find the small metal rod near the first burner. Make sure its ceramic base isn't cracked and that the tip is about 1/8 inch from the burner port. Clean any gunk off it with a bit of sandpaper or a wire brush. HEADS UP Always open the lid before attempting to light the grill. If gas has accumulated, lighting with the lid closed can cause a dangerous flare-up. If you smell gas but get no ignition, turn the knobs off and wait five minutes before trying again.

Char-Broil Performance Series 4-Burner Gas Grill

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