Question 1

ice is forming all over the coils inside the unit, is that supposed to happen?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The evaporator coils are frosting up. This happens when the air flowing over them is too cold, or the airflow is restricted. It triggers an auto-defrost cycle, but sometimes the frost wins. FIX First, turn the unit off and let the ice melt completely (this can take hours). The main causes are: 1) A dirty air filter (clean it), 2) Room temperature below 65°F, or 3) The unit set to 'Continuous' mode in a cool room. After thawing, clean the filter, ensure the room is warmer, and use 'Dry' mode with a reasonable humidity target (like 50%). IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If icing recurs quickly in normal conditions (room >65°F, clean filter), the auto-defrost thermostat or timer might be faulty. The unit isn't cycling into its defrost mode often enough or long enough. HEADS UP Never chip away at the ice with a tool. You'll almost certainly puncture the delicate copper refrigerant tubes, which totals the unit. Let it melt naturally with the power off, or use a fan to blow room air into the intake to speed it up.

Question 2

the humidity reading on the display seems way off from my other hygrometer, can i calibrate it?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The built-in hygrometer sensor isn't highly accurate and can be affected by its own operation. It's a common complaint—they're often off by 5-10%. FIX You can't calibrate it through software. The best you can do is help it get a better reading. Move any separate hygrometer to the same location as the dehumidifier's air intake (the front grille) and let both sit for 24 hours. Note the difference. Use that offset mentally when setting your target humidity. For example, if it reads 60% when your trusted meter says 55%, set the target to 50% to achieve ~55%. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The sensor can be fouled by dust. Try cleaning the filter thoroughly (see other fix) as a clogged filter affects the air sample the sensor reads. Also, don't place the unit right against a wall; give it at least 8 inches of clearance for proper airflow across the sensor. HEADS UP Don't chase perfection with the reading. The important thing is whether the room feels dry and the unit is collecting water. The number on the display is more of a relative guide than an absolute measurement.

Question 3

it just stopped in the middle of running, no lights or display, completely dead

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS This is almost always a tripped thermal overload protector or a power supply issue, not a major failure. These units have built-in safety cut-offs. FIX Unplug it from the wall. Wait a full 10 minutes. This lets any internal thermal fuses reset. While it's unplugged, check your wall outlet with another device to make sure you didn't blow a circuit breaker. After 10 minutes, plug it directly into a wall outlet (not a power strip or extension cord) and try turning it on. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If it's still completely dead, the internal fuse on the control board might be blown. This is usually a small, clear-windowed fuse you can see on the main circuit board inside the housing. Replacing it requires disassembly and matching the fuse's amp/volt rating exactly. HEADS UP These are power-hungry appliances. Always plug them directly into a dedicated outlet. Using an extension cord, especially an undersized one, can cause voltage drop that overheats the motor and trips the internal protector.

Question 4

the continuous drain hose option isn't working, water just fills the bucket anyway

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The rubber stopper/plug in the drain port isn't fully removed, or the hose isn't seated correctly, creating an airlock. The port is on the back, near the bottom. FIX Unplug the unit and pull out the bucket. On the back, you'll see a round rubber plug tucked into a recessed port. You need to pull this plug completely out—it's not just a twist-cap. Then, push your vinyl drain hose (not provided) firmly onto the plastic nipple. The hose must run straight down to the floor drain with no kinks or upward loops. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If water is still backing up into the bucket, there's likely an airlock in the hose. Detach the hose, fill it with water from your sink to prime it, then quickly reattach it to the unit to create a continuous siphon. Also, check that the hose path is a steady downhill slope. HEADS UP The bucket must still be in place for the drain to work. The internal pump drains through the bucket's outlet. If the bucket is removed, the water has nowhere to go and will overflow inside the machine.

Question 5

how do i clean the filter on this thing? i can't find any instructions on the unit itself.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The air intake filter is behind the front grille. It gets clogged fast, and a dirty filter is the #1 cause of reduced airflow and poor performance. FIX Unplug the unit. The front grille is held by plastic clips at the top. Gently pull the top of the grille towards you until the clips release. The rectangular foam filter slides right out. Rinse it under lukewarm water—don't use soap or scrub hard, you'll damage the foam. Let it air dry completely before sliding it back in and snapping the grille shut. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If performance is still bad after cleaning, check that the filter is completely dry before reinstalling. A damp filter restricts airflow even more. Also, while the grille is off, use a vacuum hose to gently clean the coil fins behind the filter. HEADS UP You need to do this every two weeks in peak use, minimum. A clogged filter makes the compressor work harder, wastes energy, and can trigger the auto-defrost cycle more often because the cold coil isn't getting enough air.

Question 6

the dehumidifier fan runs but it's not pulling any water out of the air, compressor doesn't seem to come on

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The unit is in 'fan only' mode, or there's a refrigerant/low ambient temperature issue. This model has an auto-defrost function that can prevent cooling if it's too cold. FIX Check the mode. Make sure you're not set to 'Continuous' or 'Dry' mode with a target humidity that's already been met. Set it to a lower target (like 45%) and 'Dry' mode. Also, ensure the room temperature is above 65°F (18°C). If it's colder than that, the compressor won't cycle on to prevent icing. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK There could be a refrigerant leak or a compressor start component failure. Listen closely after turning it on—you should hear a distinct 'click' and a low hum from the compressor after the fan has been running for a minute or two. If you never hear that click-hum sequence, the issue is likely internal. HEADS UP Yeah, this one's common in basements or garages in cooler months. The specs say it operates down to 41°F, but its efficiency plummets and it will cycle off frequently. It's really designed for warm, damp conditions.

Question 7

my shinco 70 pint dehumidifier just shows 'cl' on the display and won't run, what does that mean?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The unit thinks the water collection bucket is full or not seated correctly. 'CL' stands for 'Clean' or 'Check Level', which is Shinco's bucket-full indicator. FIX First, pull out the physical bucket, even if it looks empty. Check for any debris or a stuck float at the bottom. Empty it, then push it back in until you hear a solid click. The display should clear and the compressor should kick in within a minute. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The microswitch inside the unit that the bucket depresses might be stuck or faulty. With the unit unplugged, locate the small plastic lever or button inside the bucket compartment. Press it a few times manually to see if it moves freely. If it's stuck, you might need to clear any grime around it. HEADS UP Sometimes the bucket can look perfectly seated but isn't. Give it a firm, centered push with the heel of your hand. If the 'CL' error persists with an empty, correctly seated bucket, the float switch itself is likely the culprit.

Shinco SPS1-70P 70-Pint Dehumidifier

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