Diagnosis
The failure of the door to stay closed on the GE GDF670SYVFS is typically caused by a mechanical failure within the door latch assembly (Part WD49X10072) or a misalignment of the door strike. When you push the door and it "bounces" back, it indicates that the spring-loaded latch hook is failing to rotate and lock over the strike plate located at the top of the tub frame. This is often caused by a snapped internal plastic spring or a worn-out pivot pin within the latch housing. Beyond the mechanical lock, this model utilizes a microswitch integrated into the latch assembly to signal the control board that the door is secure. If the latch physically closes but the dishwasher won't start, the microswitch is likely burnt out or stuck. However, since your door is physically bouncing open, the root cause is a mechanical failure of the latch mechanism itself, preventing the electrical circuit from ever closing. You can confirm this by inspecting the latch hook; if it feels "loose" or doesn't spring back when manually pushed, the internal assembly is compromised.
How to Fix It
To resolve this, you must replace the entire door latch assembly. Ensure you have a T15 Torx driver and a small flat-head screwdriver available.
- Power Down: Disconnect the dishwasher from the 120V power source by flipping the circuit breaker. Do not rely on the power button.
- Open the Door: Fully open the dishwasher door to a 90-degree angle.
- Remove Top Trim: Remove the screws securing the top plastic trim panel of the door. Carefully pry the trim away to expose the inner door liner and the wiring harness.
- Access the Latch: Locate the latch assembly at the top edge of the door. Remove the two T15 Torx screws holding the latch housing to the door frame.
- Disconnect Wiring: Gently press the plastic tab on the wiring connector and pull the harness away from the microswitch. Do not pull by the wires.
- Install New Latch: Position the new WD49X10072 assembly. Ensure the hook is aligned with the opening before tightening the T15 screws. Do not over-tighten, as the plastic housing can crack.
- Reconnect and Test: Plug the wiring harness back in until it clicks. Reinstall the trim panel. Close the door firmly; you should hear a distinct "click" and the door should remain closed without pressure.
If That Didn't Work
- Inspect the Tub Strike Plate: Check the metal strike plate (the part the latch grabs) at the top of the dishwasher tub. If the plate is bent, loose, or obstructed by built-up detergent crust, the latch cannot engage. Use a wrench to ensure the strike plate screws are tight and that the plate is perfectly flush against the tub frame.
- Check Door Hinge Alignment: If the dishwasher was recently moved or installed, the door may be sagging. If the door is tilted even 2-3mm, the latch hook will miss the strike plate entirely. Check the lower door hinges for loose bolts or worn bushings that may be causing the door to hang unevenly.
- Verify Control Board Communication: If the door now stays closed but the unit still won't start, there may be a failure in the main control board. Use a multimeter to test for continuity across the latch microswitch terminals when the door is closed. If continuity is present but the unit is dead, the issue lies in the control board's logic circuit.
- Clear Obstructions: Check the upper rack. If the rack is not fully pushed back or if a tall plate is leaning forward, it can prevent the door from closing the final 1/4 inch required for the latch to engage.
Heads Up
- Avoid Forcing the Door: Never force the door shut if it doesn't latch; doing so can bend the tub strike plate or crack the plastic housing of the new latch.
- Clean the Strike Plate: Every 6 months, wipe the top strike plate with a damp cloth to remove hardened soap residue, which can prevent the latch from seating deeply enough to trigger the switch.
- Check the Gasket: Ensure the door gasket is seated properly in its track. A bunched-up gasket can create enough tension to push the door back open, mimicking a broken latch.