my dewalt cordless drill is making a loud clicking noise when i start it, is it broken?

Diagnosis

The clicking noise you are hearing upon the initial trigger pull of your DeWalt DCD771C2 is almost certainly the engagement of the internal electronic brake and the directional selector gear. In this specific 20V Max model, the forward/reverse slider acts as a mechanical gate. When you shift the direction, the internal gears are shifted slightly out of alignment; the "click" is the sound of the drive gear snapping into place and the brake releasing the motor shaft to allow rotation. This is a standard operational characteristic of the DCD771C2's drivetrain. To confirm this is normal behavior, set the drill to "Forward," pull the trigger once, and release. You should hear no click on the second pull. Now, slide the selector to "Reverse" and pull the trigger; you will hear that distinct single click. If the noise only occurs after switching directions or after the tool has been sitting idle, the tool is functioning exactly as designed and is not broken.

How to Fix It

Since this is a mechanical design feature rather than a failure, there is no "repair" needed. However, to ensure the mechanism is operating smoothly and to eliminate any excessive noise, follow these optimization steps:

1. Remove the 20V Max battery pack from the base to ensure the tool is completely powered down.
2. Use a can of compressed air to blow out the forward/reverse slider gap. Dust and drywall debris often collect in the slider track, which can make the "click" sound harsher or cause the slider to feel gritty.
3. Check the chuck for debris. Open the chuck jaws fully by rotating them counter-clockwise, blow out the interior, and then tighten them back down. A jammed chuck can put tension on the gear train, amplifying the start-up noise.
4. Reinsert the battery and test the trigger pull in both directions. The click should be a sharp, single mechanical sound, not a grinding or rattling noise.

If That Didn't Work

If the clicking is not a single "snap" at start-up but is instead a continuous, rhythmic, or grinding sound during operation, you are dealing with a mechanical failure. Try these solutions:

• Inspect for Stripped Clutch Gears: If the clicking happens specifically when you are driving a screw and the drill "slips," this is the torque clutch engaging. Rotate the torque adjustment collar (the numbered ring) to a higher setting. If it clicks even on the highest setting with no load, the internal clutch springs may be fatigued or broken.
• Check for Chuck Slippage: If the motor is spinning but the drill bit is not, and you hear a clicking or rattling, the chuck's internal gripping teeth may be worn. Try inserting a hex-shank bit instead of a round-shank bit to see if the noise persists; if the noise stops, the chuck needs replacement.
• Verify Gearbox Integrity: If the clicking is accompanied by a burning smell or metallic shavings in the vents, the planetary gears in the gearbox have likely failed. This usually happens after overheating the tool during heavy-duty mixing or oversized hole drilling. In this case, the gear housing must be disassembled and the gear set replaced.
• Test with a Different Battery: Occasionally, a battery with a failing cell can cause the motor to "stutter" or pulse rapidly upon start-up, which can sound like a mechanical click. Swap your current pack for another fully charged 20V Max battery to rule out electrical surging.

Heads Up

• Avoid "feathering" the trigger excessively when driving long fasteners; this puts unnecessary wear on the electronic brake and the gear engagement pins.
• Never force the forward/reverse slider while the trigger is actively being pressed; this can bend the selector pin and lead to a permanent "clicking" or slipping issue.
• Keep the air vents clear of sawdust and construction debris. Use a vacuum or compressed air weekly to prevent overheating, as heat is the primary cause of gear lubricant breakdown in the DCD771C2.
• Always use a bit that is centered and seated deeply in the chuck; off-center bits create eccentric loads that put stress on the bearings and increase operational noise.