Diagnosis
The core issue is a mismatch between the Mysa thermostat's internal power calculation algorithms and the actual heat output of your electric baseboard. Because Mysa uses "smart" cycling (PWM - Pulse Width Modulation) rather than a simple on/off switch, it calculates how long to keep the heater energized based on the estimated wattage of the unit. If the thermostat believes the heater is more powerful than it actually is, it will shut off the power prematurely, thinking the room has reached the target temperature when it has actually only warmed the air immediately surrounding the sensor. This "undershooting" is often caused by the thermostat being installed in a "cold spot"—such as near a drafty window or an exterior wall—where the sensor detects a temperature drop and triggers the heater, but the cycling logic prevents it from ever reaching the setpoint. Furthermore, if the "Heater Type" is set incorrectly in the app, the thermostat uses the wrong thermal inertia model, leading to short cycles that fail to penetrate the core temperature of the room, leaving you feeling cold despite the device claiming it is "heating."
How to Fix It
To resolve the temperature undershoot, you must calibrate the heater configuration and the temperature offset. Follow these exact steps:
- Open the Mysa app on your mobile device and select the specific thermostat that is underperforming.
- Navigate to Settings (gear icon) and select Heater Configuration.
- Tap on Heater Type. Ensure this is set to "Baseboard (Convection)". If you have a baseboard with a built-in blower, select "Fan Forced". Selecting the wrong type here fundamentally changes how the thermostat manages the duty cycle.
- Return to the main Settings menu and locate Temperature Offset. If the room feels cold but the app says it's at the setpoint, you likely have a calibration error. Adjust the offset by -2°F or -3°F. This forces the thermostat to "think" the room is colder than it is, pushing the heater to run longer cycles.
- Check the Advanced Settings and ensure "Eco Mode" or any aggressive energy-saving schedules are disabled while you are testing the heat output.
- Set the temperature to 5 degrees above your desired comfort level for 2 hours to allow the thermal mass of the walls to warm up, then dial it back to your preferred setting.
If That Didn't Work
- Verify the Wattage Match: Check the physical label on your baseboard heater (usually found on the end cap or the back of the unit). If you have a 1500W heater but the Mysa is configured for a higher wattage, it will cycle off too early. While Mysa auto-detects most loads, a manual check of the load settings in the app (if available for your firmware version) can resolve discrepancies.
- Relocate the Thermostat: If the Mysa is installed directly beneath the heater or too close to a heat source, it will experience "ghost heating" where the sensor warms up quickly while the rest of the room remains freezing. Ensure there is at least 3 feet of clearance from the heating element. If it is mounted on a cold exterior wall, the wall itself may be sucking heat away from the sensor, causing erratic cycling.
- Check for Air Leaks: Electric baseboards rely on convection currents. If you have heavy curtains draped over the heater or furniture blocking the airflow, the heat cannot circulate. This creates a pocket of warm air around the thermostat, tricking it into shutting off while the rest of the room stays cold.
- Inspect the Wiring: Ensure the line and load wires are tightened to the correct torque. A loose connection at the thermostat terminals can cause increased resistance and voltage drops, meaning the heater isn't pulling full power even when the thermostat is "on."
Heads Up
- Avoid "Over-setting": Do not set your thermostat to 80°F to compensate for a cold room; this can cause the internal relay to overheat or trigger a safety shut-off. Use the Temperature Offset setting instead.
- Curtain Placement: Never allow curtains to touch or cover a baseboard heater. This is a fire hazard and prevents the convection cycle that Mysa relies on for accurate room sensing.
- Firmware Updates: Ensure your Mysa is updated to the latest firmware via the app. Mysa frequently releases "tuning" updates that improve the PWM cycling logic for various heater wattages.
- Voltage Check: Ensure your circuit is a dedicated 240V line. If the voltage has dropped due to an aging electrical panel, the heater will produce significantly less BTUs than the thermostat expects.