Question 1

the fan runs but it doesn’t seem to pull air through the front grille very strongly

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The lack of suction at the front grille of the Honeywell DH70W is typically caused by a restriction in the airflow path, which prevents the centrifugal fan from creating a vacuum. This occurs most frequently when the evaporator coils (the aluminum fins behind the filter) become saturated with dust, pet hair, or lint. When these fins are clogged, the air cannot pass through the narrow gaps, causing the fan to spin without moving a significant volume of air, which often results in a "whirring" sound but no tangible breeze. Another common cause is "icing" or frosting of the coils. If the unit is operated in an environment below 60°F (15°C) or if the airflow is already slightly restricted, the moisture on the coils freezes into a solid block of ice. This ice physically blocks the air passages, effectively sealing the unit. You can confirm this by removing the air filter and looking directly at the metal fins; if you see a white, crystalline layer or a solid wall of ice, the unit is frozen. If the fins are gray or brown and "fuzzy," the issue is debris accumulation. FIX To restore full suction and airflow to your Honeywell DH70W, follow these precise steps: Disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet to ensure safety and prevent the compressor from cycling during cleaning. Remove the washable air filter from the front grille. Inspect the filter for a layer of gray dust; if it is clogged, wash it with warm soapy water and let it air dry completely before reinstalling. Using a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment or a narrow crevice tool, gently vacuum the evaporator coils. Move the vacuum in a vertical direction, following the orientation of the aluminum fins to avoid bending them. Do not apply heavy pressure, as these fins are thin and easily damaged. If you find ice buildup on the coils, do not attempt to scrape it off with a knife or screwdriver, as puncturing a coil will leak the refrigerant and destroy the unit. Instead, move the unit to a warmer room or use a hair dryer on a "low" or "cool" setting from 6 inches away to melt the ice. Wait 24 hours for the internal components to reach room temperature and for any hidden ice pockets inside the chassis to thaw. Wipe down the front grille slats with a damp cloth to ensure no exterior blockages are hindering the intake. Plug the unit back in and set the fan speed to "High" to test the suction strength. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Fan Blade Assembly: Over time, the centrifugal fan wheel can accumulate a thick layer of dust on the blades themselves, which changes the airfoil shape and reduces the amount of air it can push. Use a flashlight to look past the coils into the fan housing. If the blades are caked in dust, use a can of compressed air to blow out the fan wheel while the unit is unplugged. Inspect the Capacitor: If the fan is spinning but sounds "sluggish" or slower than usual, the start/run capacitor may be failing. A weakened capacitor prevents the motor from reaching its full rated RPM, resulting in weak airflow. This requires a multimeter to test for capacitance (uF) and replacement of the capacitor if it falls below the rated value. Verify the Exhaust Vent: Ensure the top exhaust vent is not blocked by curtains, furniture, or walls. If the air cannot escape the top of the DH70W, it cannot be pulled in through the front. Ensure there is at least 12-18 inches of clear space around the entire perimeter of the unit. Check for Refrigerant Leaks: If the coils are not cold to the touch despite the compressor running, the unit may have a refrigerant leak. Without the cooling effect, the unit may not be pulling moisture efficiently, which can sometimes be mistaken for a fan issue. If the coils are room temperature, the sealed system has failed. HEADS UP Never operate the DH70W in temperatures below 60°F unless it has a dedicated "low temperature" or "auto-defrost" mode active, as this is the primary cause of coil icing. Clean the washable filter every two weeks during peak humidity months; a clogged filter is the leading cause of compressor overheating and premature motor failure. Avoid using harsh chemical cleaners or bleach on the aluminum fins, as these can corrode the protective coating and lead to pinhole leaks in the refrigerant lines. If the unit is used in a garage or workshop with high sawdust levels, use a secondary pre-filter (like a thin layer of cheesecloth) over the grille to prevent the internal coils from clogging.

Question 2

mine is leaking water from the bottom, not from the bucket, just pooling underneath

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS Water pooling underneath the Honeywell DH70W typically indicates a failure in the condensate management system, where water escapes the internal collection path before it reaches the bucket or the external drain hose. This most commonly occurs when the internal condensate tray—the plastic basin that catches drips from the evaporator coils—becomes clogged with dust, biofilm, or "slime," causing water to overflow the edges of the tray and leak directly onto the chassis and floor. Another frequent cause is a misalignment or breach in the seal where the internal tray meets the bucket housing. If the unit was tilted during movement or if the bucket is not seated perfectly flush, water will bypass the bucket entirely. In cases where a continuous drain hose is attached, the leak is often caused by a "vacuum lock" or a kink in the hose, forcing water to back up into the internal reservoir and overflow the overflow sensor's capacity, leaking from the base of the unit rather than the hose exit. FIX To resolve the leaking issue, follow these precise steps to clear the system and verify the seals: Power down the unit and unplug it from the wall outlet to prevent electrical shorts. Remove the water collection bucket and set it aside. Inspect the area where the bucket slides in for any debris or buildup of mineral deposits. Locate the internal drain hole at the bottom of the evaporator tray (the area directly above where the bucket sits). Use a flexible pipe cleaner or a thin 1/16" diameter plastic probe to gently clear any sludge or dust clumps from the drain port. If using a continuous drain hose, remove the hose from the rear port. Inspect the black rubber grommet seal; if it is cracked or pinched, it must be replaced. Reinstall the hose, ensuring it is pushed firmly into the port. Use a spirit level to confirm the hose has a constant downward slope of at least 1 inch of drop per every 2 feet of hose length to prevent back-pressure. Wipe the interior base of the unit with a dry microfiber cloth. Place the bucket back in, ensuring it "clicks" or seats firmly against the rear housing. Run the unit on "Continuous" mode for 30 minutes and use a flashlight to observe the drip path from the coils to the bucket to ensure no water is splashing over the side of the tray. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect for Coil Freezing: If the evaporator coils are frosting over due to a dirty filter, the ice will melt unevenly, often bypassing the drain tray and dripping directly onto the internal electronics or the base. Clean the filter with warm soapy water and ensure there is at least 12 inches of clearance around the intake and exhaust vents. Check the Internal Tray Integrity: Remove the outer plastic casing of the unit (requires a Phillips head screwdriver) to inspect the plastic condensate pan. Look for hairline cracks or stress fractures in the plastic. If a crack is found, apply a food-grade waterproof silicone sealant to the exterior of the crack and allow it to cure for 24 hours. Verify Bucket Gasket: Inspect the rubber gasket/seal around the rim of the water bucket. If the seal is warped or missing a piece, water may leak from the bucket's top edge even if the bucket isn't full, appearing as a leak from the bottom of the machine. Flush the System: Mix a solution of one part white vinegar to three parts warm water. Pour this carefully into the internal condensate tray to dissolve mineral buildup and biofilm that may be restricting the flow to the bucket. HEADS UP Never tilt the unit more than 15 degrees when moving it; doing so can shift the refrigerant oil or displace the internal drain tray, leading to permanent leaks. Clean the air filter every two weeks. A clogged filter reduces airflow, which leads to coil frosting and subsequent "mystery leaks" from the base. If using a continuous drain, avoid using corrugated hoses that can trap air bubbles; use smooth-bore PVC or reinforced vinyl tubing for a reliable gravity drain. Periodically check the bucket for "slime" buildup. This biofilm can act as a plug, forcing water to overflow the internal reservoir.

Question 3

it won’t turn on at all, no lights, nothing on the display, checked the outlet

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The total absence of power on a Honeywell DH70W—meaning no LED indicators, no beep upon plugging in, and a completely dark display—indicates a critical break in the electrical path before it reaches the logic circuitry. Since you have already verified the wall outlet, the failure is isolated to the internal power delivery system. In most cases, this is caused by a catastrophic failure of the 3A 250V fast-acting glass fuse located on the main printed circuit board (PCB). This fuse typically blows during a power surge or if the compressor attempts to kick in while the start capacitor is failing, creating an overcurrent situation that severs the connection to protect the more expensive microprocessor. Alternatively, the issue may be a physical break in the power cord at the strain relief point where the cable enters the plastic chassis. Because these units are frequently dragged across floors by the cord, the internal copper wiring can fatigue and snap, leaving the external insulation intact while the internal connection is dead. To confirm the failure, you will need a digital multimeter to test for continuity across the fuse or voltage at the input terminals of the control board. FIX To resolve a complete power failure, you must access the internal electronics to inspect the fuse and wiring. Follow these steps precisely: Disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet immediately to avoid electrical shock. Remove the water collection bucket and set it aside. Using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, remove the screws securing the outer plastic housing. Focus on the rear panel and the top console where the control board is housed. Carefully lift the plastic shell away from the chassis, taking care not to pull on the wires connecting the display panel to the main board. Locate the main PCB. Look for a small glass cylinder fuse (typically 3A 250V) housed in a plastic or ceramic clip. Remove the fuse and inspect the filament. If the glass is clouded or the internal wire is broken, the fuse is blown. Use a multimeter set to the Continuity (Ω) setting. Touch the probes to both ends of the fuse. If the multimeter does not beep or shows "OL" (Open Loop), replace the fuse with an identical 3A 250V rated replacement. Reassemble the housing, ensuring no wires are pinched between the plastic panels, and plug the unit back in. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Test the Power Cord Continuity: Use your multimeter to test the continuity from the plug prongs to the points where the cord attaches to the internal terminal block. If you find an open circuit, the cord has a break. You will need to replace the entire power lead assembly rather than splicing it to maintain safety standards. Inspect the Capacitor: Check the start/run capacitor (the large silver cylinder). If the top is bulged or leaking fluid, it may have shorted out, causing the fuse to blow immediately after replacement. Replace the capacitor with one matching the exact microfarad (uF) and voltage rating. Check for PCB Burn Marks: Inspect the main control board for "magic smoke" signs—blackened areas or swollen electrolytic capacitors. If a voltage regulator or a trace on the board has burned through, the PCB must be replaced entirely as these are not easily repairable by hand. Verify the Thermal Fuse: Some versions of the DH70W have a secondary thermal fuse wrapped around the compressor windings. If the unit overheated significantly, this fuse may have tripped. Test for continuity across the thermal fuse; if it is open, the unit will not power on. HEADS UP Never bypass the fuse: Do not attempt to "jump" the fuse with a wire or replace it with a higher amperage fuse (e.g., 5A or 10A). This will lead to a permanent burnout of the control board or a potential fire. Capacitor Danger: Even when unplugged, the start capacitor can hold a lethal electrical charge. Discharge the capacitor using a resistor or a specialized tool before touching the terminals. Avoid "Tug-Plugging": To prevent future cord failures, always pull the plug from the head rather than pulling the cord from a distance, which stresses the internal connections at the chassis entry point. Clean the Coils: A dead unit is often the result of a strained compressor. Every 3 months, vacuum the rear coils to ensure proper airflow and prevent the overheating that leads to fuse failure.

Question 4

the bucket is full light is on but the bucket isn’t even half full, it keeps shutting off

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Honeywell DH70W uses a mechanical float system to prevent overflows. Inside the bucket housing, there is a buoyant white plastic float attached to a pivot arm. As water rises, this float lifts, triggering a micro-switch that cuts power to the compressor and activates the "Bucket Full" LED. When the light triggers prematurely, it is almost always due to "float drift" or mechanical obstruction. Over time, mineral deposits from hard water or biofilm (slime) build up around the pivot point, creating enough friction to keep the float in the "up" position even when the water level drops. Another common cause is a misalignment of the bucket itself. If the DH70W is not sitting on a perfectly level surface, or if the bucket is slightly skewed during insertion, the float may rub against the side of the chassis. This friction prevents the float from dropping back down, tricking the sensor into thinking the reservoir is overflowing. You can confirm this by removing the bucket and manually pushing the float down; if the light turns off immediately, the issue is mechanical/debris-related rather than an electrical failure of the control board. FIX Disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet to prevent any electrical shorts while working near the internal sensors. Remove the water collection bucket completely and set it aside. Locate the float assembly. This is the small white plastic piece located in the recessed well of the unit. Using a soft toothbrush or a cotton swab dipped in white vinegar, scrub the pivot point and the vertical track where the float slides. Remove all white calcium scales and slime buildup. Manually toggle the float up and down ten times. It should move with zero resistance and snap back down instantly under its own weight. Inspect the bucket's rim and the chassis for any debris or foreign objects (like pet hair or dust bunnies) that might be preventing the bucket from seating flush. Place the bucket back into the unit. Apply firm, even pressure on both sides of the handle to ensure it is fully seated. You should feel a distinct "thunk" as it locks into place. Plug the unit back in and monitor the "Bucket Full" light for 5 minutes to ensure it remains off. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check for Float Buoyancy Failure: Inspect the white plastic float for any hairline cracks. If water has leaked into the interior of the float, it loses buoyancy and can behave erratically, sometimes sticking in the "up" position due to the weight of the internal water. If the float feels heavy or rattles, it must be replaced. Test the Micro-Switch: If the float moves freely but the light stays on, the micro-switch may have failed in the "closed" position. Use a multimeter to test for continuity across the switch terminals. If the switch does not toggle between open and closed when the float is moved, the switch assembly needs replacement. Verify Leveling: Place a bubble level on top of the dehumidifier. If the unit is tilted forward or to the side by more than 2-3 degrees, the float can bind against the wall of the reservoir well. Adjust the placement of the unit or use shims to level the chassis. Bypass for Continuous Drainage: If you cannot resolve the sensor issue and need the unit running, install a standard 1/2" garden hose to the rear drain port. While this doesn't fix the sensor, it allows you to remove the bucket entirely (if the model permits) or simply ignore the bucket fill level while the water exits the rear. HEADS UP Avoid using harsh chemical cleaners or bleach on the float switch, as this can degrade the plastic and cause the float to warp or crack. To prevent future "false full" readings, wipe the interior of the bucket and the float well with a vinegar solution once a month to stop mineral buildup. Always ensure the unit is placed at least 12 inches away from walls to maintain proper airflow, which prevents the unit from overworking and creating excessive condensation that can lead to faster slime growth in the bucket. If you notice the bucket is filling unusually fast, check the air filter for dust clogs; a dirty filter forces the unit to run longer to achieve the same humidity drop, filling the bucket more frequently.

Question 5

it’s making a loud gurgling or bubbling noise constantly, sounds like water is moving inside

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The gurgling, bubbling, or "sloshing" sound you are hearing is typically the result of refrigerant moving through the evaporator coils and capillary tubes. In a high-capacity unit like the Honeywell DH70W, the volume of refrigerant required to pull 70 pints of moisture from the air is significant. As the compressor cycles and the refrigerant changes states from liquid to gas, it creates these audible fluid dynamics. This is standard operational behavior for the sealed system and does not indicate a mechanical failure. FIX Since this is a characteristic of the unit's design, there is no mechanical "fix" required. However, you can minimize the perceived noise with these steps: Level the Unit: Ensure the dehumidifier is on a completely flat, hard surface. If the unit is tilted, the refrigerant flow can become uneven, making the bubbling sound more pronounced. Clear Airflow: Maintain at least 18 inches of clearance around the intake and exhaust. Restricted airflow can cause the compressor to work harder, increasing the intensity of the fluid sounds. Check the Bucket: Ensure the water bucket is seated firmly. If it is loose, the vibration of the refrigerant flow can amplify the noise against the plastic housing. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK If the gurgling is accompanied by a complete loss of cooling (the air coming out is not warm/dry) or if the sound evolves into a loud, constant hissing or screeching, you likely have a refrigerant leak. In this scenario: Unplug the unit immediately to prevent the compressor from overheating. Check for oily residue around the coils, which often indicates a leak point. Since the sealed system is pressurized and requires specialized certification to repair, the unit will likely need to be replaced under warranty. HEADS UP Never tilt, tip, or move the DH70W while it is running or immediately after it has been shut off. Doing so can force liquid refrigerant into the compressor lines (slugging), which can permanently damage the compressor and void your warranty.

Question 6

just got my dh70w, it's running but no water is collecting in the bucket after hours

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Honeywell DH70W is a compressor-based dehumidifier, meaning it relies on a refrigeration cycle to cool internal coils below the dew point of the ambient air. If the fan is blowing but the bucket remains empty, the unit is failing to achieve "condensation." This usually happens because the compressor—the heart of the cooling system—is not engaging, or the environment is not conducive to moisture extraction. If the room temperature is below 60°F (15°C), the coils can frost over rapidly, triggering a safety shut-off or simply preventing water from dripping into the reservoir. Another common cause is a "false reading" by the internal hygrometer. If the unit believes the room is already at 30% humidity when it is actually 60%, the control board will keep the compressor off to save energy. You can confirm if the compressor is working by placing your hand over the air exhaust; the air should feel noticeably warmer than the air being sucked into the intake. If the air is room temperature, the compressor is idle. If the air is warm but no water is collecting, you likely have a blockage in the internal drain tray or a refrigerant leak. FIX To force the unit to operate and verify the mechanical integrity of the system, follow these exact steps: Power down the unit and unplug it from the wall outlet for at least 10 minutes to reset the internal control board. Plug the unit back in and immediately set the Humidity Control dial to the "CO" (Continuous) setting. This overrides the humidistat and forces the compressor to run regardless of the room's current moisture level. Ensure the unit is placed at least 20 inches away from walls or furniture. If the intake is blocked, the coil temperature will fluctuate, preventing steady condensation. Check the water bucket for a proper seal. Ensure the bucket is pushed completely into the chassis until you hear a click; if the bucket sensor is not engaged, the compressor will be disabled as a safety precaution to prevent overflows. Run the unit in "Continuous" mode for 6 to 12 hours. If the room is above 65°F and the humidity is above 50%, you should see at least 2-4 inches of water in the bucket within this timeframe. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the Evaporator Coils for Frost: Remove the filter and look at the metal fins. If you see a thick layer of ice or white frost, the unit is operating in an environment that is too cold. Move the DH70W to a warmer room or use a space heater to raise the ambient temperature to 70°F. Once the ice melts, the water will begin flowing into the bucket again. Test the Capacitor: If the fan is running but you hear a periodic "click" every few minutes without the compressor starting, the start capacitor (the cylindrical component on the control board) may have failed. This prevents the compressor from kicking over. A technician can test this with a multimeter to check for the rated microfarads (uF). Clear the Internal Drain Path: Sometimes dust and lint create a "slime" or a plug in the small channel that leads from the evaporator coils to the bucket. Use a pipe cleaner or a flexible wire to gently probe the drain hole located at the bottom of the coil assembly to ensure water isn't pooling and overflowing internally. Verify Refrigerant Levels: If the compressor is humming and the air is only slightly warm, but no water collects and no frost forms on the coils, the unit may have a refrigerant leak. Because the DH70W uses a sealed system, a loss of R-134a or R-410A gas means the coils cannot get cold enough to condense water. This requires a professional recharge or unit replacement. HEADS UP Filter Maintenance: Wash the washable filter every two weeks with lukewarm water. A clogged filter restricts airflow, which causes the coils to freeze and stops water collection. Avoid Low-Temp Basements: Do not run this unit in a garage or basement below 60°F without a heater; the DH70W is not a "low-temperature" rated model and will likely freeze up. Bucket Alignment: Always ensure the bucket is slid in straight. If the bucket is slightly skewed, the float switch may not trigger correctly, leading to either a "Bucket Full" error when empty or a failure to start. Power Surge Protection: Use a dedicated outlet. Plugging a high-draw compressor unit like the DH70W into a thin extension cord can cause voltage drops that prevent the compressor from starting.

Question 7

my honeywell dh70w just shows ‘90’ on the display and won’t start, what is that code?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The "90" (or sometimes appearing as "90" due to display glitches) on the Honeywell DH70W is not a humidity reading, but a specific system error code indicating a Humidistat Sensor Fault. This occurs when the main control board detects that the internal humidity sensor is sending a signal that is outside the operational voltage range—either an open circuit or a short circuit. Essentially, the "brain" of the dehumidifier can no longer determine the actual moisture level of the room, so it enters a safety lockout mode to prevent the compressor from running indefinitely and freezing the coils. You can confirm this is a sensor fault if the unit refuses to enter "Continuous" (CO) mode. Normally, the CO setting bypasses the humidistat; however, when the DH70W triggers a 90 error, the control board often disables all relay triggers to protect the hardware. If the display flickers or the 90 appears immediately upon plugging the unit in, the fault is likely a hardware failure on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) or a disconnected wiring harness. If it appears after a few minutes of operation, the sensor is likely drifting out of calibration or failing due to moisture buildup on the sensor element itself. FIX To resolve a Humidistat Fault, follow these precise steps to attempt a hard reset and sensor clearance: Power down the unit completely by pulling the plug from the wall outlet. Do not use the power button on the chassis. Leave the unit unplugged for exactly 10 minutes. This allows the capacitors on the control board to discharge fully and clears the volatile memory where the error code is stored. While the unit is unplugged, use a can of compressed air to blow out the vents around the rear of the unit, specifically targeting the area where the air intake enters the chassis. Dust buildup on the sensor can cause erratic readings that trigger the 90 code. Plug the unit directly into a grounded 120V wall outlet. Avoid using surge protectors or extension cords during this test, as voltage drops can cause the sensor to report an incorrect voltage to the board. Immediately press the "Continuous" button to see if the compressor engages. If the 90 disappears and the unit starts, the issue was a temporary logic glitch. If the 90 returns, power the unit off and wait 5 minutes. Power it back on and try to set the humidity to the lowest possible setting (30%) to see if the sensor responds to a manual set-point change. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Sensor Wiring: If you are comfortable opening the chassis, remove the housing screws and locate the small humidity sensor (a small plastic component with two wires) connected to the main PCB. Ensure the plastic clip is seated firmly. If the wires are frayed or pinched, the circuit will break, triggering the 90 code. A temporary fix for a loose connection is a small piece of electrical tape to secure the terminal. Clean the Sensor Element: If the sensor is covered in a film of dust or mold, it cannot read the air accurately. Use a cotton swab lightly dampened with 90% isopropyl alcohol to gently clean the sensor element. Let it dry completely for 30 minutes before powering the unit back on. Replace the Main Control Board: Because the humidistat sensor on the DH70W is typically integrated into the main control board assembly, a persistent 90 code usually requires a full board replacement. You will need to source the specific PCB compatible with the DH70W model number. This involves swapping the entire board and transferring the button interface. Check for Moisture Intrusion: If the unit was stored in a very damp environment, moisture may have seeped into the board's potting. Use a hairdryer on a "cool" or "low heat" setting to gently blow air over the control board for 5-10 minutes to evaporate any latent moisture that might be shorting the sensor pins. HEADS UP Never use a high-pressure air compressor to clean the sensor; you can physically displace the delicate sensing membrane, permanently ruining the board. Always ensure the air filter is cleaned every two weeks. Restricted airflow causes the area around the sensor to become artificially humid, which can lead to sensor drift and premature failure. Avoid placing the unit in a tight corner. The DH70W requires at least 12-18 inches of clearance around the intake and exhaust to ensure the sensor reads the room's average humidity rather than a pocket of stagnant air. If you replace the control board, always double-check that the bucket float switch is properly aligned before closing the case, as a misaligned float can trigger a "Full" light immediately after a board swap.

Honeywell DH70W 70-Pint Dehumidifier

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