Question 1

speed control dial doesn't seem to change anything, it's just stuck on one speed.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B) utilizes an Electronic Speed Control (ESC) module that regulates the voltage delivered to the brushless motor based on the position of the potentiometer dial. When the speed remains constant regardless of the dial position, it indicates a failure in the feedback loop between the dial and the control board. Most commonly, the potentiometer—the variable resistor behind the plastic knob—has either suffered a mechanical failure (the shaft has snapped or stripped) or an electrical failure (the carbon track inside the potentiometer has worn out or shorted). You can confirm this by listening to the motor's pitch. If the router immediately jumps to maximum RPM (approx. 20,000 RPM) the moment you pull the trigger, the ESC is likely failing to "clamp" the voltage. If it stays at a low, sluggish speed regardless of the dial, the circuit is likely stuck in a low-voltage state. To verify if the issue is mechanical, feel for any "play" or looseness in the dial; if the knob spins freely without the typical tactile resistance of a potentiometer, the plastic D-shaft has stripped away from the metal stem. FIX Because the ESC and the speed dial are integrated into a single proprietary electronics module housed within the upper casing, you cannot simply "clean" the dial. You must replace the switch and control assembly to restore variable speed functionality. Follow these steps for a full replacement: Remove the 18V/36V ONE+ battery and ensure the tool is completely powered down. Using a T10 Torx driver, remove the four housing screws located on the perimeter of the upper motor housing. Carefully lift the top plastic cap. Be mindful of the tension spring that manages the trigger mechanism; do not let it snap outward. Locate the speed control module. Disconnect the wiring harness connecting the ESC board to the brushless motor leads. Note the color coding of the wires (usually Red, Black, and Blue/Yellow) to ensure correct polarity during reassembly. Unscrew the mounting bracket holding the potentiometer dial to the outer shell. Install the replacement ESC/Switch module (Part # varies by production run, typically sourced as a complete upper-switch assembly). Route the wires through the internal guides to avoid pinching them when the housing is closed. Reinstall the housing screws and tighten them in a cross-pattern to ensure an even seal against the motor housing. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check the Battery Communication: The HP (High Performance) line uses a communication chip between the battery and the tool. If you are using an older, non-HP battery, the tool may default to a "safe mode" or a single speed to prevent overheating. Try a high-capacity 4Ah or 6Ah HP battery to see if the variable speed is restored. Inspect for Carbon Dust Infiltration: Open the housing and check for fine sawdust or carbon buildup around the potentiometer. Use a can of compressed air to blow out the ESC board. If conductive dust has bridged the solder joints on the board, it can create a "short" that bypasses the speed control. Verify Trigger Switch Continuity: If the trigger switch itself is failing or partially melted from heavy use, it may be sending a constant "full power" signal to the ESC, overriding the dial. Test the trigger for a crisp "click" and consistent spring return. Inspect Motor Brushes (if applicable): While this is a brushless model, check the internal wiring for any charred insulation. A partial short in the motor windings can occasionally trick the ESC into staying at one speed to maintain torque. HEADS UP Avoid "Max Speed" Long-Term: Running the router at the absolute maximum setting for extended periods increases heat buildup in the ESC, which is the primary cause of potentiometer failure. Dust Management: Always use the dust shield. Fine sawdust is an insulator; if it packs into the vents, the ESC board will overheat, causing the speed to fluctuate or lock up. Battery Heat: If the battery is overheating, the tool's internal thermal protection may limit the RPMs regardless of the dial setting. Let the battery cool for 15 minutes before diagnosing a speed failure. Tighten Collets Properly: Ensure your bit is seated fully. An unbalanced bit causes vibration that can loosen the potentiometer nut over time, leading to the "stuck speed" sensation.

Question 2

router works fine but the led work light is super dim or flickers, doesn't really help.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The flickering or dimming of the LED work light on the Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B) is typically caused by one of two failures: particulate infiltration or a cold solder joint on the LED driver board. Because this router is designed for high-speed material removal, fine sawdust—specifically from hardwoods or MDF—is sucked into the ventilation ports of the motor housing. This dust settles directly on the LED contacts, creating a resistive layer that drops the voltage, resulting in a dim output. In more severe cases, the vibration from the high-RPM motor causes the thin-gauge wiring connecting the LED to the main power rail to fray or loosen. Since the LED is wired in parallel with the motor circuitry, it doesn't affect the router's cutting performance, but it indicates a failing connection at the solder point. If the light flickers specifically when the motor is under load, it is a sign of voltage drop caused by a degraded battery cell or a loose internal connection that is reacting to the tool's vibration. FIX Because the LED is integrated into the upper housing assembly and is not listed as a standalone replacement part, the official fix requires a housing swap. However, you can often restore the light by cleaning the internal contact points without a full teardown. Disconnect the ONE+ HP battery immediately to prevent accidental activation. Use a high-pressure canister of compressed air to blow out the ventilation slots located near the top of the motor housing. Focus specifically on the gaps surrounding the LED lens to clear out packed sawdust. Remove the outer casing screws using a T15 Torx driver. Carefully lift the upper clamshell housing, being mindful of the trigger switch wires. Locate the small LED PCB (Printed Circuit Board) attached to the inner wall of the housing. Inspect the two thin wires leading from the board to the main power lead. If you see a loose wire, use a fine-tip soldering iron (approximately 30W) to re-flow the solder joint. Use a cotton swab dipped in 90% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the LED diode surface and the surrounding contacts to remove any conductive dust or resin. Reassemble the housing, ensuring the wires are routed away from the motor's cooling fan to prevent future chafing. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Test with a High-Capacity Battery: Swap your current battery for a 4.0Ah or 6.0Ah ONE+ HP battery. If the light brightness returns, the issue is not the LED but a voltage sag in your original battery pack, which cannot maintain the required current for both the motor and the lighting circuit simultaneously. Check for Trigger Contact Wear: The LED is linked to the trigger mechanism. If the light flickers only when the trigger is partially depressed, the internal copper contact plate may be pitted or dirty. Clean the trigger contacts with a contact cleaner spray (like DeoxIT) to ensure a steady current flow. Bypass with an External Work Light: If the internal LED board has burned out (common if the tool was used in extremely damp conditions), the cost of replacing the entire housing assembly often exceeds the value of the tool. In this case, mounting a magnetic LED strip to the router's base or using a headlamp is the most efficient workaround. Inspect the Battery Terminals: Check the gold-plated terminals on the tool side of the battery interface. If there is carbon buildup or debris, the tool may receive enough power to spin the motor but not enough stable voltage to keep the LED from flickering. Clean these with a pencil eraser or fine sandpaper. HEADS UP Avoid using the router in extremely dusty environments without a vacuum attachment; sawdust buildup inside the housing is the primary killer of the electronics in the PSBCR01B. Never use a soldering iron on the housing while the battery is inserted, as a short circuit can permanently fry the motor controller. When reassembling the clamshell, ensure the trigger spring is seated correctly; if it is misaligned, the light may stay on even when the tool is off, draining your battery. Periodically blow out the motor vents with compressed air every 5-10 hours of use to prevent dust from reaching the LED circuitry.

Question 3

dust port attachment keeps popping off mid-cut, even when i think it's snapped on tight.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router PSBCR01B utilizes a friction-fit snap system for its dust collection shroud. The primary cause of the port popping off is "vibration-induced creep." Because this is a high-RPM tool, the micro-vibrations from the motor travel through the chassis and gradually nudge the plastic locking tabs out of their seated position. If the tabs are not fully engaged, the centrifugal force and the air pressure buildup from the vacuum create a "push" effect that ejects the port during a cut. You can confirm this by inspecting the two lateral locking lugs on the dust port. If the plastic edges appear smoothed or "shiny," they have been worn down by repeated insertions. Additionally, check for fine sawdust buildup inside the female receiving slots on the router base; even a millimeter of compressed dust prevents the tabs from clicking into the deepest part of the detent, leaving the port held on by surface tension rather than a mechanical lock. FIX To ensure a permanent, vibration-resistant lock, follow these steps to clean and secure the attachment: Remove the dust port entirely and use a can of compressed air or a stiff nylon brush to clear the two recessed slots on the router housing. Ensure no sawdust is packed into the corners of the detents. Inspect the locking tabs on the port. If they are slightly rounded, use a fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit) to lightly scuff the surface of the tabs; this increases the friction coefficient between the plastic surfaces. Align the port and press firmly until you hear a distinct "click." To verify the lock, give the port a sharp tug in four different directions. If it wiggles more than 2mm, it is not fully seated. If the port still feels loose, apply a small amount of silicone-based lubricant to the tabs. This allows the port to slide deeper into the slot before the tab snaps into place, ensuring a tighter mechanical seal. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK The Tape Shim Method: Apply a single, tight wrap of high-quality electrical tape or Teflon plumber's tape around the mating surface of the dust port, specifically where the tabs meet the housing. This adds a fraction of a millimeter of thickness, creating a tighter interference fit that resists vibration. Vacuum Hose Weight Reduction: If you are using a heavy 2.5-inch shop vac hose, the weight of the hose acting as a lever will pull the port off. Use a flexible 1.25-inch reducer or a lightweight flexible hose extension to reduce the side-load tension on the port. Mechanical Fastening: For permanent shop setups, drill two small 1/8-inch pilot holes through the shroud and into the router housing. Insert small plastic push-pins or nylon screws to lock the port in place. Avoid using metal screws that could penetrate too deep into the motor housing. Replacement Part: If the plastic tabs are physically cracked or sheared off, the port cannot be repaired. You will need to replace the dust shroud assembly. Check for the specific Ryobi ONE+ HP compatible base kit to ensure the locking lugs are fresh and rigid. HEADS UP Avoid over-tightening the hose connection to the port; if the hose is too tight, it will actually pull the port away from the router base rather than pushing it in. Always clear your dust collection system frequently. A clogged hose creates back-pressure that can physically push the dust port off the machine from the inside. Check the base plate screws every few projects. If the base plate is slightly skewed, it can put uneven pressure on the dust port alignment, making it more prone to popping off. Keep the plastic tabs clean of adhesive residues or glues, as these can attract sawdust and create a slippery film that prevents the snap-lock from engaging.

Question 4

i can't get the collet to release the bit, even with the wrench it just won't loosen.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The seizure of the collet on the Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B) is typically caused by a combination of thermal expansion and "resin locking." During heavy routing, the friction between the bit and the collet generates intense heat. This heat causes the steel collet to expand and then contract tightly around the shank of the bit. If you are using carbide-tipped bits, the microscopic roughness of the shank can act like a mechanical lock when compressed under the high torque of the HP motor. Furthermore, pine resin or sawdust mixed with lubricant can seep into the threads of the collet nut. Once this mixture cures under the heat of operation, it acts as a powerful adhesive, bonding the nut to the collet body. You can confirm this is the issue if the collet nut rotates slightly but the inner collet remains frozen, or if the nut refuses to budge even when the spindle lock is fully engaged. This is most common with 1/4" bits that have been run at maximum RPM for extended periods. FIX To break the bond without stripping the nut or damaging the spindle, you need to apply a sudden "shock" force rather than steady pressure. Follow these exact steps: Unplug the router from the power source and remove the battery pack to ensure there is no risk of accidental activation. Firmly engage the spindle lock. On the PSBCR01B, ensure the locking mechanism is fully depressed and the shaft is completely immobilized. If the shaft rotates even a millimeter, you will lose the leverage needed to break the seal. Fit the supplied collet wrench securely onto the flat edges of the collet nut. Ensure the wrench is seated deeply and flush against the nut to prevent slipping. Instead of pulling the wrench slowly, use a rubber mallet or a dead-blow hammer to strike the end of the wrench handle sharply in the counter-clockwise direction. This "impact" method breaks the surface tension of the resin and the mechanical grip of the collet more effectively than steady torque. If the nut moves but the bit remains stuck, leave the nut slightly loose. Use a bench vise to gently grip the shank of the router bit (using a cloth to protect the metal) and rotate the entire router body clockwise to unwind the bit from the collet. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Chemical Penetration: Apply a high-quality penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, specifically at the seam where the nut meets the collet. Let it soak for at least 4 to 6 hours. Wipe away excess oil before attempting to loosen again to avoid slipping with the wrench. Thermal Shock: Use a can of compressed air (inverted) or a specialized freezing spray to chill the collet nut. The rapid contraction of the outer nut relative to the inner bit can create a microscopic gap, allowing the bit to slide out. Mechanical Lever Extension: Slide a hollow metal pipe over the handle of your collet wrench to increase the leverage. Be extremely careful with this method; if you apply too much force without the spindle lock being perfectly engaged, you risk bending the motor shaft. Collet Replacement: If the nut finally loosens but the inner collet is permanently deformed or "frozen" to the shaft, the collet assembly is compromised. You will need to replace the collet and nut assembly to ensure the bit is centered and safe to operate. HEADS UP Avoid Over-tightening: Never tighten the collet nut with maximum force. Use a "snug plus a quarter turn" approach. Over-tightening is the primary cause of seized collets in the PSBCR01B. Clean the Shank: Before inserting a new bit, wipe the shank clean with a lint-free cloth. Any sawdust or resin on the shank will create a tighter, more problematic fit. Bit Depth: Ensure the bit is inserted fully into the collet but not "bottomed out" against the base. Leaving a tiny gap (about 1/64") prevents the bit from wedging too tightly against the bottom of the collet. Heat Management: If you notice the router body becoming excessively hot during a deep cut, stop and let it cool. Excessive heat ruins the temper of the collet and leads to the seizure issues described above.

Question 5

the clear plastic sub-base is cracked and now it vibrates like crazy, where do i even get a new one?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The vibration you are experiencing is caused by a loss of structural integrity in the polycarbonate sub-base. On the Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B), the sub-base acts as the primary stabilizer between the motor housing and the workpiece. When the clear plastic cracks—often due to the stress of overtightening the mounting screws or a sudden impact from a drop—the base can no longer maintain a perfectly flat, rigid plane. Because this router operates at high RPMs, even a hairline fracture creates an asymmetrical load. This causes the base to flex and oscillate during operation, which translates into the "crazy vibration" you feel in your hands. This isn't just an annoyance; it leads to "chatter marks" on your wood and can eventually shake the collet loose, potentially ejecting the bit. You can confirm this by removing the sub-base and checking if the vibration persists (though be extremely careful not to touch the spinning bit); if the vibration stops or significantly decreases without the base, the plastic is definitely the culprit. FIX To resolve this, you need to replace the damaged sub-base with a fresh OEM unit. The correct replacement part number for the PSBCR01B is #RYB311202. You can source this through Ryobi's official parts distribution or authorized power tool repair centers. Disconnect the ONE+ battery immediately to ensure the tool cannot be accidentally triggered during the repair. Using a #2 Phillips-head screwdriver, remove the four screws securing the cracked clear sub-base to the aluminum foot. Carefully lift the damaged sub-base away from the tool. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe away any accumulated sawdust or resin from the mating surface of the aluminum foot to ensure the new base sits perfectly flush. Position the new #RYB311202 sub-base, aligning the center hole with the router bit and the four screw holes with the chassis. Insert the four screws. To prevent the new base from cracking, do not drive the screws in fully at first. Tighten them in a "star" or crisscross pattern (Top-Left, Bottom-Right, Top-Right, Bottom-Left). Tighten the screws until they are "snug." Stop as soon as you feel resistance. Overtightening the polycarbonate plastic is the most common cause of these cracks. Reinsert the battery and perform a low-speed test run to ensure the vibration has ceased. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Check Collet Concentricity: If the vibration remains, your router bit may be unbalanced or the collet may have debris inside. Remove the bit, clean the collet internals with compressed air, and ensure the bit shank is fully seated and tightened to the correct torque. Inspect the Spindle Bearings: If you hear a high-pitched grinding noise along with the vibration, the internal motor bearings may have failed. This usually happens if the tool was dropped while running. This requires a full motor teardown or a professional replacement of the bearing assembly. Verify Base Flatness: Place the router on a known flat surface (like a granite slab or machinist's table). If the aluminum foot itself is warped or bent, a new plastic sub-base will not fix the vibration. You may need to lightly sand the bottom of the aluminum foot to regain flatness. Test with a Different Bit: Swap your current bit for a high-quality, balanced carbide bit. Cheap, off-brand bits are often slightly off-center, which creates an imbalance that mimics a broken sub-base. HEADS UP Avoid Over-Torquing: The sub-base is plastic; it does not require high torque. Using a power driver to install these screws is the fastest way to crack a brand-new base. Always use a hand screwdriver. Cleanliness is Key: Even a tiny piece of sawdust trapped between the aluminum foot and the plastic sub-base can cause the base to sit at an angle, leading to uneven cuts and increased vibration. Battery Safety: Always remove the battery before changing bases or bits. The trigger on the HP series is sensitive, and an accidental start during a base change can cause serious injury. Regular Inspections: Check the sub-base for stress fractures every few projects. Catching a crack early allows you to replace the part before the vibration damages the motor's internal bearings.

Question 6

why is my ryobi compact router making a high-pitched whining noise and slowing down under light load?

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The high-pitched whining noise combined with a loss of torque under light load in the Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B) is a classic symptom of electrical arcing between the carbon brushes and the armature commutator. When the brushes wear down to their minimum effective length, they lose consistent physical contact with the rotating commutator. This creates micro-arcs of electricity that manifest as a high-frequency scream or "whine" and prevent the motor from drawing the full current needed from the 18V battery, leading to the perceived slowing down. You can confirm this by looking through the motor ventilation slots with a flashlight while the tool is running; if you see small blue or white sparks (arcing) inside the motor housing, the brushes are failing. Additionally, if the tool feels unusually hot near the rear handle after only a few seconds of idling, it indicates that the electrical resistance has increased due to poor brush contact, converting power into heat rather than rotational torque. FIX To resolve this, you must replace the carbon brushes to restore a clean electrical path. Ensure the battery is completely removed before beginning. Remove the two long housing screws located on the side of the tool near the base of the motor assembly. Use a #2 Phillips head driver and be careful not to strip the soft plastic threads. Carefully pull the two clamshell halves of the housing apart. Note that there are internal wire looms connecting the trigger switch to the motor; do not yank the housing apart forcefully or you will snap a lead. Locate the two carbon brush holders positioned 180 degrees apart on the motor armature. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the brush springs back and slide out the old carbon inserts. Inspect the ends of the old brushes. If they are worn down to less than 3mm or show a diagonal "groove" worn into the carbon, they are spent. Insert two new Ryobi carbon brushes (Part #RYB311201). Ensure they slide freely in the holders but are held firmly against the commutator by the spring tension. Realign the housing halves, ensuring the trigger assembly is seated correctly in its molded slot. Tighten the housing screws until snug, but do not overtighten, as the plastic casing can crack under excessive pressure. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Clean the Commutator: If new brushes don't stop the noise, the copper commutator may have "carbon tracking" or burnt deposits. Use a piece of fine-grit emery cloth (400-600 grit) or a dedicated commutator stone. Gently rub each copper segment individually to remove the black carbon buildup until the copper shines. Use compressed air to blow out any conductive dust before closing the tool. Inspect the Collet and Bearing: A high-pitched whine can sometimes be mechanical rather than electrical. Remove the router bit and check the collet for debris. Spin the motor shaft by hand; if you feel a "gritty" sensation, the front bearing has failed. Replace the bearing using a press to avoid damaging the motor housing. Check Battery Voltage Sag: If the router slows down under load but the motor sounds clean, the issue may be the battery cells. Test the tool with a high-capacity 4.0Ah or 6.0Ah ONE+ HP battery. If the problem disappears, your current battery has high internal resistance and cannot provide the peak amperage required by the HP motor. Verify Trigger Switch Continuity: Inspect the trigger switch contacts for pitting or carbon buildup. Use a contact cleaner spray to clear any sawdust that has migrated into the switch housing, as a partial short here can cause erratic power delivery and motor whining. HEADS UP Avoid "Dry" Routing: Always use a sharp bit. Using a dull bit increases the load on the motor, which accelerates brush wear and increases the likelihood of overheating the armature. Blow Out Dust Regularly: Use compressed air to blow out the motor vents every 30 minutes of use. Sawdust buildup acts as an insulator, trapping heat and causing the carbon brushes to degrade faster. Battery Heat Management: The HP series of tools draws significant current. If the battery becomes hot to the touch, allow it to cool before continuing; overheating the battery can lead to voltage drops that mimic motor failure. Symmetry is Key: Always replace both brushes at the same time, even if only one looks worn. Replacing only one creates an electrical imbalance that can warp the new brush or damage the commutator.

Question 7

router bit keeps slipping down while i'm using it, can't get it to stay locked at the right depth.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The slipping issue on the Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B) is almost always caused by a failure in the mechanical interface between the depth adjustment locking lever and the vertical rack gear. In this specific model, the locking mechanism relies on a friction-fit cam that presses a locking pin into the teeth of the rack. When fine sawdust—particularly from resinous woods like pine or MDF—infiltrates the gear teeth, it creates a microscopic layer of lubrication and debris. This prevents the locking pin from seating fully into the valley of the gear tooth, causing the router base to "creep" or drop suddenly under the vibration of the motor. You can confirm this by attempting to move the base while the lever is locked; if you feel a "clicking" sensation or a slight wiggle before the base slides, the pin is merely resting on the peak of the gear tooth rather than locking into the groove. In some cases, the tension spring inside the lever assembly has lost its elasticity, meaning the lever is not applying enough downward pressure to counteract the weight of the motor and the force of the plunge. FIX To resolve this, you must perform a deep clean of the rack and reset the lever tension. Follow these steps exactly: Remove the 18V ONE+ battery immediately to ensure the tool cannot accidentally trigger during maintenance. Loosen the depth locking lever and rotate the base to its maximum height (fully extended). This exposes the majority of the rack gear teeth. Use a stiff-bristled nylon brush or a dental pick to manually scrape out packed sawdust from every single tooth of the vertical rack. Do not use a lubricant or oil, as this will attract more dust and make the slipping worse. Apply a burst of high-pressure compressed air (minimum 30 PSI) directly into the pivot point of the black locking lever. This clears debris from the cam mechanism that allows the lever to travel its full distance. With the base at the desired depth, push the locking lever firmly into the locked position. While holding the lever, apply downward pressure to the router body to ensure the pin is fully seated. Cycle the lever five to ten times rapidly to distribute any remaining debris and ensure the spring-loaded mechanism is snapping back into place. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect for Lever Fatigue: Examine the black plastic locking lever for hairline cracks, specifically around the pivot point. If the plastic has stressed or cracked, the lever cannot apply enough torque to the locking pin. You will need to replace the lever assembly, as the plastic deformation is permanent. Check Collet Tightness: Ensure the router bit is tightened correctly using the provided wrench. If the bit is slightly loose, the resulting vibration is amplified, which can "shake" the depth lock loose even if it is properly engaged. Tighten the collet until snug, but do not over-torque. Verify Base Squareness: Check if the base plate is skewed or if the depth adjustment ring is hitting an obstruction. If the base is not perfectly parallel to the workpiece, the side-load force can push the locking pin out of the gear tooth. Replace the Rack Gear: In rare cases of heavy use, the teeth on the rack may be rounded off. If you see silver metal shavings in the sawdust around the rack, the gear is worn. This requires a full replacement of the depth adjustment assembly. HEADS UP Avoid using "blow-out" air during a cut; always clear the rack gear before you set your final depth to ensure a secure lock. Never force the locking lever if you feel significant resistance; this is a sign of a jammed gear tooth, and forcing it can snap the plastic lever. Periodically check the tightness of the base plate screws, as a loose base can introduce vibrations that compromise the depth lock. When making deep cuts, take multiple shallow passes rather than one deep plunge to reduce the downward pressure on the locking mechanism.

Question 8

my ryobi one+ hp compact router suddenly has no power, won't turn on with a fresh battery.

Accepted Answer

DIAGNOSIS The battery is likely not making proper contact with the router's terminals. This model has a known issue with the battery latch mechanism. FIX Remove the battery. Firmly press the black plastic battery latch on the tool with your thumb. You should feel a distinct click. Reinstall the battery. You should hear a solid click when it seats. The tool should power on. IF THAT DIDN'T WORK Inspect the gold battery terminals inside the router's base. Look for black carbon scoring or debris. Clean them with a dry cotton swab or pencil eraser. Do not use liquid cleaners. HEADS UP Do not force the battery. If the latch feels mushy or broken, the tool base assembly needs replacement. Using it with a loose battery is a safety hazard.

Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router PSBCR01B

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