router bit keeps slipping down while i'm using it, can't get it to stay locked at the right depth.

Diagnosis

The slipping issue on the Ryobi ONE+ HP Compact Router (PSBCR01B) is almost always caused by a failure in the mechanical interface between the depth adjustment locking lever and the vertical rack gear. In this specific model, the locking mechanism relies on a friction-fit cam that presses a locking pin into the teeth of the rack. When fine sawdust—particularly from resinous woods like pine or MDF—infiltrates the gear teeth, it creates a microscopic layer of lubrication and debris. This prevents the locking pin from seating fully into the valley of the gear tooth, causing the router base to "creep" or drop suddenly under the vibration of the motor. You can confirm this by attempting to move the base while the lever is locked; if you feel a "clicking" sensation or a slight wiggle before the base slides, the pin is merely resting on the peak of the gear tooth rather than locking into the groove. In some cases, the tension spring inside the lever assembly has lost its elasticity, meaning the lever is not applying enough downward pressure to counteract the weight of the motor and the force of the plunge.

How to Fix It

To resolve this, you must perform a deep clean of the rack and reset the lever tension. Follow these steps exactly:

1. Remove the 18V ONE+ battery immediately to ensure the tool cannot accidentally trigger during maintenance.
2. Loosen the depth locking lever and rotate the base to its maximum height (fully extended). This exposes the majority of the rack gear teeth.
3. Use a stiff-bristled nylon brush or a dental pick to manually scrape out packed sawdust from every single tooth of the vertical rack. Do not use a lubricant or oil, as this will attract more dust and make the slipping worse.
4. Apply a burst of high-pressure compressed air (minimum 30 PSI) directly into the pivot point of the black locking lever. This clears debris from the cam mechanism that allows the lever to travel its full distance.
5. With the base at the desired depth, push the locking lever firmly into the locked position. While holding the lever, apply downward pressure to the router body to ensure the pin is fully seated.
6. Cycle the lever five to ten times rapidly to distribute any remaining debris and ensure the spring-loaded mechanism is snapping back into place.

If That Didn't Work

• Inspect for Lever Fatigue: Examine the black plastic locking lever for hairline cracks, specifically around the pivot point. If the plastic has stressed or cracked, the lever cannot apply enough torque to the locking pin. You will need to replace the lever assembly, as the plastic deformation is permanent.
• Check Collet Tightness: Ensure the router bit is tightened correctly using the provided wrench. If the bit is slightly loose, the resulting vibration is amplified, which can "shake" the depth lock loose even if it is properly engaged. Tighten the collet until snug, but do not over-torque.
• Verify Base Squareness: Check if the base plate is skewed or if the depth adjustment ring is hitting an obstruction. If the base is not perfectly parallel to the workpiece, the side-load force can push the locking pin out of the gear tooth.
• Replace the Rack Gear: In rare cases of heavy use, the teeth on the rack may be rounded off. If you see silver metal shavings in the sawdust around the rack, the gear is worn. This requires a full replacement of the depth adjustment assembly.

Heads Up

• Avoid using "blow-out" air during a cut; always clear the rack gear before you set your final depth to ensure a secure lock.
• Never force the locking lever if you feel significant resistance; this is a sign of a jammed gear tooth, and forcing it can snap the plastic lever.
• Periodically check the tightness of the base plate screws, as a loose base can introduce vibrations that compromise the depth lock.
• When making deep cuts, take multiple shallow passes rather than one deep plunge to reduce the downward pressure on the locking mechanism.