the hand control on my desk is totally dead, no lights at all. the desk is stuck at standing height.

Diagnosis

The total loss of power to the hand control on an Autonomous SmartDesk Core typically indicates a break in the communication loop between the control box (the "brain") and the keypad interface. Because the desk remains stationary at standing height, the control box itself is likely receiving power from the wall, but it is not receiving the "up" or "down" signal from the keypad, or the keypad is not receiving the low-voltage power required to light up the LEDs. This failure is usually caused by one of three things: a loose RJ-style connector that has vibrated out of its socket, a pinched cable in the cable management tray that has severed the internal copper wiring, or a blown capacitor within the keypad's circuit board. You can confirm the control box is still active by checking for a faint standby light on the box itself or by attempting a hard reset; if the desk doesn't budge and the keypad remains dark, the issue is strictly localized to the signal path or the interface hardware.

How to Fix It

Follow these precise steps to restore power to your hand control:

1. Disconnect the power cable from the wall outlet completely. Do not rely on a power strip switch; physically pull the plug to discharge the capacitors in the control box.
2. Crawl under the desk and locate the control box (the black rectangular hub). Find the thin 5-pin or 6-pin cable that leads from the box to the hand control keypad.
3. Unplug the connector from the control box. Inspect the gold-plated pins inside the port for any bends or corrosion. If you see dust or debris, use a can of compressed air to clear the socket.
4. Inspect the entire length of the cable, paying close attention to where the cable exits the control box and where it enters the keypad. Look for "kinks" or flattened areas where the cable may have been crushed by the desk frame during a height adjustment.
5. Firmly re-seat the cable into the control box until you hear a distinct "click." Ensure the locking tab is fully engaged.
6. Plug the desk back into the wall.
7. Perform a "Hard Reset" to re-sync the keypad: Press and hold the "Down" button for 10-15 seconds. The desk should move slightly downward to calibrate its minimum height, and the lights on the keypad should flicker back to life.

If That Didn't Work

• Swap the Control Box Port: Some SmartDesk Core models have dual input ports. Try plugging the keypad into the secondary port if available to determine if the primary port on the control box has suffered a hardware failure.
• Test for Cable Continuity: If you have a multimeter, set it to the continuity setting and test the pins of the keypad cable. A "break" in any of the internal wires will show an open circuit, meaning the cable must be replaced entirely as these thin-gauge wires cannot be reliably spliced.
• Check the Power Brick: Ensure the AC adapter (the brick on the floor) is not overheating. If the brick is excessively hot to the touch, it may be providing enough voltage to keep the control box "alive" but not enough amperage to power the LED display on the keypad. Unplug it for 30 minutes to cool down.
• Replace the Keypad: If the cable is intact and the control box is functioning, the internal circuit board of the hand control has likely failed. Order a replacement Autonomous Core Keypad and swap it out; this is a plug-and-play component that does not require reprogramming.

Heads Up

• Cable Routing: Never zip-tie the keypad cable tightly to the metal frame. As the desk moves, the cable needs a "service loop" (a slight slack) to prevent the wires from being pulled out of the sockets.
• Avoid Overloading: Ensure you aren't exceeding the 250lb-300lb weight limit. Overloading the motors can cause voltage spikes that fry the delicate electronics in the hand control.
• Power Cycle: Whenever you add new equipment to the desk (like a PC or monitor arm), always power cycle the desk first to avoid static discharge hitting the control box.