the large burner on my frigidaire cooktop clicks forever and won't light, other burners are fine

Diagnosis

The continuous clicking sound you are hearing is not actually an igniter—since this is an electric range—but rather the internal mechanical failure of the Infinite Switch (the control knob assembly) for the large burner. In the Frigidaire GCRE3060AF, the infinite switch uses a bimetal strip and a set of electrical contacts to regulate heat. When the internal contacts warp or carbonize, they can "chatter," rapidly opening and closing the circuit. This creates a clicking noise that mimics a gas igniter, even though the element is not receiving enough consistent current to heat up. This issue is specific to the large burner because it handles the highest current load of all the elements, making its switch the most prone to thermal fatigue. You can confirm this is the root cause by swapping the knob and switch with a smaller burner (if the wiring allows) or by observing that the clicking only occurs when that specific knob is turned away from the "Off" position. If the other burners function normally, your main power board and terminal block are healthy, and the failure is isolated to the individual switch component.

How to Fix It

To replace the faulty infinite switch, you will need a replacement part (typically Part #124335 or equivalent depending on the specific production run) and a Phillips head screwdriver.

1. Power Down: Completely disconnect the range from the 240V power source. Do not rely on the control panel; pull the plug from the wall or flip the breaker in your electrical panel.
2. Remove Knobs: Pull the control knobs straight off the shafts. Start with the large burner knob and the surrounding knobs to create workspace.
3. Access the Console: Remove the screws securing the backguard/control panel to the chassis. Carefully lift the panel assembly upward and forward to expose the wiring harness and the switches.
4. Identify the Switch: Locate the switch corresponding to the large burner. It is typically the largest switch in the array due to the higher amperage requirements.
5. Document and Disconnect: Before pulling wires, take a clear photo of the wiring configuration. Disconnect the spade connectors by gently pulling them off the terminals. If they are stuck, use a small pair of needle-nose pliers to wiggle them loose without bending the tabs.
6. Remove Mounting Hardware: Unscrew the mounting nuts or screws holding the switch to the console frame. Slide the old switch out of the panel.
7. Install New Switch: Insert the new infinite switch into the slot and tighten the mounting hardware. Reattach the wires exactly as they were positioned in your photo.
8. Test: Reassemble the panel and knobs. Plug the unit back in and turn the large burner to "Medium" to ensure the clicking has stopped and the element begins to glow red.

If That Didn't Work

• Inspect the Element Connection: If the switch is new but the burner still won't heat, the issue may be a burnt-out heating element. Inspect the terminals on the bottom of the burner for "pitting" or black carbon buildup. If the element has a visible break in the internal coil, the element itself must be replaced.
• Check the Terminal Block: Locate the main power terminal block at the back of the range. Ensure the wires connecting to the large burner circuit are not charred or loose. A loose connection here can cause voltage drops that prevent the element from heating despite a functioning switch.
• Verify the Wiring Harness: Check the wires leading from the switch to the burner. Look for signs of rodent damage or melted insulation caused by heat leakage from the oven. A shorted wire can cause erratic behavior in the switch.
• Test the Element with a Multimeter: Set your multimeter to Ohms (Ω). Disconnect the burner element and test for continuity. A healthy element should show a reading between 10 and 25 Ohms. An "Open" reading (OL) means the element is dead.

Heads Up

• Avoid "Quick Fixes": Never attempt to clean the internal contacts of an infinite switch with contact cleaner; these are sealed units, and opening them usually destroys the calibration of the bimetal strip.
• Tighten Connections: When installing the new switch, ensure the spade connectors are tight. Loose connections create high resistance, which generates heat and can melt the plastic housing of the new switch.
• Avoid Overheating: If you frequently use the "Power Boil" or highest setting for extended periods, the switch will wear out faster. Try using a medium-high setting for long simmers to extend the life of the component.
• Safety First: Always ensure the range is unplugged. The 240V current in these appliances is lethal and cannot be ignored, even if the display is off.