the thermostat control on my danby doesn't seem to change the temperature at all, it's always too cold

Diagnosis

The Danby DAR044A4BDD is a compact unit that relies on a cold-control thermostat consisting of a mechanical dial and a long, thin capillary tube filled with a refrigerant gas. When the unit is "always too cold," it indicates a failure of the thermostat to "trip" the compressor off. This happens because the gas inside the capillary tube has leaked out or the internal bellows mechanism has seized, meaning the sensor can no longer detect the actual temperature of the cabinet. As a result, the compressor runs continuously (100% duty cycle), turning your refrigerator into a freezer and potentially freezing your milk or produce. You can confirm this by listening to the compressor. If the compressor is humming constantly without any periods of silence, and the interior walls are frosting over heavily despite the dial being set to the lowest cooling setting (usually "1" or "Min"), the thermostat is failed in the "closed" position. In this state, the electrical circuit is permanently completed, bypassing the temperature regulation entirely and forcing the cooling system to run indefinitely.

How to Fix It

To resolve this, you must replace the entire cold control assembly. Because the capillary tube is embedded in the liner, you cannot simply replace the knob; the whole sensor unit must be swapped.

1. Unplug the unit from the wall outlet to prevent electrical shock. Move the refrigerator away from the wall to allow full access to the interior and rear.
2. Remove all food and shelving from the interior. Locate the temperature control knob. Grip the knob firmly and pull it straight out toward you; it is a friction-fit piece.
3. Using a 5/16" or 1/4" nut driver (depending on the specific production run), unscrew the mounting nut that secures the thermostat shaft to the plastic interior liner.
4. Carefully pull the thermostat assembly out through the hole in the liner. Be mindful not to bend the capillary tube sharply, as this can damage new units.
5. Locate the wire terminals at the back of the thermostat. Use needle-nose pliers to gently pull the spade connectors off the terminals. Note the position of the wires before disconnecting.
6. Slide the new thermostat assembly (Part No: compatible with DAR044 series cold controls) into the housing, ensuring the capillary tube is seated correctly in its guide rail along the inner wall.
7. Tighten the mounting nut until snug, but do not over-tighten, as the plastic liner of the DAR044A4BDD can crack under excessive pressure.
8. Reconnect the spade terminals and snap the control knob back into place.
9. Plug the unit back in and set the dial to a medium setting (usually 3 or 4). Wait 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize before testing with a thermometer.

If That Didn't Work

• Check for a "stuck" relay on the compressor start relay. If the thermostat is replaced but the compressor still runs regardless of power cycles, the start relay (the small plastic box plugged into the side of the compressor) may be welded shut, though this is rare compared to thermostat failure.
• Inspect the evaporator plate for excessive ice buildup. If a thick layer of ice has formed around the sensor area, the thermostat may be reading the temperature incorrectly. Manually defrost the unit for 24 hours with the door open to ensure a clean slate for the new sensor.
• Verify the door seal integrity. If the magnetic gasket is leaking, warm air enters the cabinet constantly. The thermostat may actually be working, but the compressor is running non-stop because the unit can never reach the target temperature. Check for gaps using a dollar bill test.
• Inspect the condenser coils at the rear. While this usually causes overheating rather than over-cooling, a severely clogged coil can cause erratic compressor behavior and temperature swings that mimic a failed thermostat.

Heads Up

• Avoid placing items directly against the interior walls, especially near the thermostat sensor, as this can create "cold spots" that trick the sensor into shutting off too early or running too long.
• Never use a sharp knife or ice pick to remove frost buildup from the interior walls; the DAR044A4BDD uses a thin aluminum liner that is easily punctured, which will lead to a total loss of refrigerant and a non-repairable unit.
• If you notice the compressor clicking every few minutes (short-cycling), this is a sign of a failing start capacitor or an overloaded compressor, which is a separate issue from the thermostat.
• Keep the unit at least 2 inches away from the wall to ensure proper airflow, which reduces the strain on the compressor and extends the life of the cold control system.