how do i get the base plate on my saw to actually sit flat? one corner seems to be bent up.

Diagnosis

The base plate (shoe) of the Makita XSH03Z is constructed from a cast aluminum alloy designed for rigidity, but it is susceptible to deformation upon high-impact drops or if the saw was accidentally used as a step-stool. When one corner is "bent up," it creates a gap between the shoe and your workpiece, which shifts the center of gravity and causes the blade to "walk" or dive, resulting in cuts that are not square and a dangerous lack of stability during a rip cut. This issue is rarely caused by wear and tear; it is almost always a mechanical deformation of the metal or a misalignment of the mounting hardware. To confirm, place the saw on a certified machinist's table or a thick piece of tempered glass. Place a precision machinist's square or a high-quality 12-inch steel rule across the shoe. If you can slide a 0.010" feeler gauge under the corner in question, the shoe is warped. If the gap is inconsistent across the length of the plate, the plate is twisted, not just bent at one corner.

How to Fix It

If the shoe is merely misaligned due to loose hardware, follow these steps. If the metal is physically warped, the only permanent fix is replacement, as aluminum "springs back" if you attempt to hammer it flat.

1. Disconnect the 18V LXT battery immediately to prevent accidental startup.
2. Inspect the underside of the shoe for embedded sawdust, dried glue, or metal shards. Use a plastic scraper to clear the entire surface of the base plate.
3. Locate the two primary mounting bolts that secure the shoe to the motor housing. Use a 10mm socket or wrench to ensure these are tightened to a snug fit; if one is loose, the shoe will tilt under its own weight.
4. Check the depth adjustment lever and the locking pin. Ensure the depth stop is fully engaged and not partially jammed, which can put upward pressure on the rear of the shoe.
5. If the shoe is physically bent, remove the mounting bolts entirely. Inspect the mounting holes for ovaling or cracks.
6. Order a replacement base plate specific to the XSH03Z model. Install the new shoe, ensuring the alignment pins are seated perfectly before tightening the bolts in a cross-pattern to avoid inducing a new twist in the plate.

If That Didn't Work

• Check the Pivot Arm: Inspect the rear hinge mechanism where the shoe connects to the saw body. If the pivot pin is bent or the bushing is worn, the shoe will sit at an angle regardless of how flat the plate itself is. If you see play/wobble in the hinge, the entire rear assembly needs service.
• Verify Blade Nut Torque: Ensure the blade flange and nut are seated correctly. If the blade is slightly crooked or the flange is damaged, it can create a vibration that makes the shoe feel unstable or "jumpy" during a cut, mimicking a warped base.
• Inspect the Depth Scale Casting: Check the cast aluminum housing around the depth scale. If the saw took a hard hit, the housing itself may be cracked or warped, pushing the shoe upward. Look for hairline fractures in the paint near the pivot point.
• Calibrate the Bevel Shoe: Loosen the bevel locking knob and rotate the saw to 45 degrees and back to 0. If the shoe does not return to a perfectly flush position against the body, the internal bevel stop is bent, causing the shoe to sit "proud" on one side.

Heads Up

• Avoid "Field Repairs": Never use a hammer and anvil to flatten a warped aluminum shoe. This creates internal stress fractures in the metal, making the plate brittle and prone to snapping during a heavy cut.
• Surface Maintenance: Periodically apply a thin layer of paste wax to the bottom of the shoe. This reduces friction and prevents the "grabbing" sensation that often leads users to force the saw, which can bend the plate.
• Battery Weight: Always ensure your LXT battery is clicked fully into place. An improperly seated battery can shift the balance of the tool, putting uneven pressure on the leading edge of the base plate.
• Check for Square: After replacing or adjusting the shoe, perform a "square test" on a scrap 2x4. If the blade is not perfectly 90 degrees to the shoe, your cuts will be tapered, and you may need to adjust the bevel scale.