my ge gas range oven won't heat up at all, the igniter glows but it just clicks and never lights.

Diagnosis

The issue with your GE JGBS66REKSS is a failure of the "current-draw" mechanism within the oven's safety circuit. In this specific model, the igniter is not just a spark; it is a resistive heating element that must reach a specific temperature and electrical amperage to trigger the electromagnetic solenoid in the oven safety valve. When the igniter glows, it proves that the control board is sending voltage, but it doesn't mean the igniter is actually functional. Over time, the tungsten filament inside the igniter develops "micro-breaks" or oxidation. This increases the electrical resistance of the part. While the igniter may still glow orange, it fails to reach the precise amperage (typically around 3.6 amps) required to pull the safety valve open. Because the valve remains closed, no gas reaches the burner, resulting in the "clicking" sound you hear—which is the safety valve attempting to engage but failing to receive the necessary current to lock open. You can confirm this by observing the igniter: if it glows for several minutes without the oven igniting, the igniter is weak and must be replaced.

How to Fix It

To resolve this, you must replace the bake igniter (Part No: WB24K10035 or compatible). This is a delicate component; any physical stress to the element during installation will cause it to fail prematurely.

1. Power Down: Shut off the circuit breaker to the range. Do not rely on the oven's "Off" switch, as the control board remains energized.
2. Access the Burner: Remove the oven racks. Unscrew the oven floor panel (if equipped with a removable base) or carefully lift the bottom heat shield.
3. Disconnect Wiring: Locate the two wires connected to the igniter. Pull the spade connectors off the terminals. If the connectors are corroded, use a small needle-nose plier to ensure a clean break.
4. Remove the Old Igniter: Gently slide the igniter out of its mounting bracket. Be careful not to bend the surrounding burner tube.
5. Install New Igniter: Slide the new igniter into the bracket. Crucial: Do not touch the black graphite element with your bare fingers; skin oils can create hot spots that lead to premature burnout.
6. Secure Connections: Push the spade connectors firmly onto the new terminals. Ensure they are tight; a loose connection will cause arcing and heat damage.
7. Test: Reassemble the floor panel, restore power, and set the oven to 350°F. The igniter should glow, and within 30-90 seconds, you should hear the "whoosh" of the gas igniting.

If That Didn't Work

• Check the Safety Valve: If a brand new igniter glows brightly but the oven still won't light, the gas safety valve itself has likely seized. This is a mechanical failure of the solenoid. You will need to test the valve for continuity using a multimeter. If the valve is dead, it must be replaced entirely as it cannot be lubricated or repaired.
• Inspect the Gas Supply: Ensure the gas shut-off valve behind the range is fully open. If you recently moved the stove, check for kinks in the flexible gas line. A partial blockage can prevent the burner from lighting even if the valve opens.
• Verify the Control Board: If the igniter is not glowing at all, the issue is upstream. Check the oven's control board for burnt relays or "scorched" capacitors. If the board is not sending 120V to the igniter, the board needs replacement.
• Clean the Burner Ports: Use a thin needle or a can of compressed air to clear the burner tube ports. If the ports are clogged with grease or food debris, the gas cannot flow evenly to the igniter, preventing a clean light-off.

Heads Up

• Fragility Warning: Igniters are made of extremely brittle materials. If you drop the new part or bump it against the oven wall during installation, it may look fine but will fail within a few uses.
• Avoid "Quick Fixes": Never attempt to bypass the safety valve to get the oven to heat. This creates a massive gas leak risk and can lead to an explosion.
• Burn-in Period: When you first turn on the new igniter, you may smell a slight "burning" odor for the first 10 minutes. This is normal as the manufacturing oils burn off the element.
• Voltage Check: If you have a multimeter, verify that you are getting 120V AC at the igniter wires before installing the new part to ensure the control board is functioning correctly.