milwaukee drill bit keeps getting stuck and binding in metal, what am i doing wrong?

Diagnosis

This issue typically stems from "chip packing," where metal shavings accumulate in the flutes of the drill bit faster than they can be evacuated. In the Milwaukee M18 FUEL series, the high torque of the brushless motor can mask the initial signs of binding, leading the user to apply more pressure. This creates a vicious cycle: as the bit heats up due to friction, the metal expands and "grabs" the cutting edge, causing the bit to bind or seize entirely within the hole. Furthermore, binding often occurs during the "breakthrough" phase. As the bit exits the bottom of the metal sheet or bar, the cutting edge catches on the exiting edge of the material. If you are using a standard High-Speed Steel (HSS) bit on hardened steel or stainless steel without a pilot hole, the bit will wander, creating an oversized hole that increases the surface area of contact and leads to immediate binding. You can confirm this by inspecting the bit; if the flutes are clogged with silver "ribbons" of metal or if the cutting edge shows blue/black discoloration, you have experienced thermal binding due to excessive friction and lack of lubrication.

How to Fix It

To stop the binding and ensure a clean bore, follow this professional sequence:

1. Prepare the Surface: Use a spring-loaded center punch to create a physical indentation in the metal. This prevents the bit from "walking" and ensures the cutting edge engages the material immediately.
2. Configure the Tool: Ensure the mode selector collar is set to the Drill icon. Set the speed selector switch on top of the tool to '1' (Low Speed/High Torque) for larger diameter bits or harder metals. Using speed '2' on hard metal often burns the tip of the bit through excessive friction.
3. Apply Cutting Lubricant: Apply three to five drops of heavy-duty cutting oil (such as sulfurized oil for steel or kerosene for aluminum) directly to the tip of the bit. Do not drill dry.
4. Execute the "Peck Drilling" Technique: Apply firm, steady downward pressure. Every 3-5mm of penetration, completely retract the bit from the hole while it is still spinning. This clears the metal chips from the flutes and allows fresh lubricant to reach the cutting edge.
5. Manage the Breakthrough: As you feel the bit about to penetrate the bottom of the material, reduce your downward pressure by 50%. This prevents the bit from "snagging" on the exit edge, which is where most binding and tool-kickback occurs.

If That Didn't Work

• Upgrade to Cobalt Drill Bits: If you are drilling stainless steel or hardened alloys, standard HSS bits will dull almost instantly, causing them to rub rather than cut. Switch to M35 or M42 Cobalt bits, which maintain their hardness at higher temperatures and slice through tough metals without binding.
• Adjust Your RPM: If the bit is smoking or turning blue, your speed is too high. Switch the gear selector to '1' and manually feather the trigger to maintain a slower, more consistent rotation. Slow speeds with high torque are the key to drilling thick metal.
• Check for Material Work-Hardening: If you stop applying pressure while the bit is spinning, you may "glaze" the metal, making it significantly harder. If the bit stops cutting, you may need to switch to a brand new bit or use a step-drill bit to break through the hardened layer.
• Verify Bit Alignment: Ensure the bit is perfectly centered in the chuck. If the bit is slightly crooked, it will create an elliptical hole, causing the sides of the bit to rub against the walls of the hole and bind.

Heads Up

• Avoid "Over-Pressuring": If the tool stalls, do not lean your entire body weight into the drill; this can snap the bit or damage the internal planetary gears of the M18 FUEL motor.
• Clear the Flutes: Periodically wipe the metal shavings off the bit with a rag. If shavings build up on the shank, they can scratch the interior of the hole, increasing friction.
• Heat Management: If the bit becomes too hot to touch, stop immediately and let it cool. Overheating ruins the temper of the steel, rendering the bit useless.
• Safety First: Always wear impact-resistant safety glasses. Metal "swarf" or broken bit fragments can eject at high velocities during a binding event.