my oven's broiler works but the bake burner won't come on at all, no clicking.

Diagnosis

The absence of a "clicking" sound and a complete failure of the bake burner, while the broiler remains functional, indicates a break in the electrical circuit specifically dedicated to the lower heating element. In the Whirlpool WFG320M0MS, the bake igniter is a glow-bar style component. Unlike a spark igniter, this is a resistive heater that must reach a specific temperature and electrical resistance to open the gas valve. If the igniter has "burned out" (developed an open circuit), no current flows, and the gas valve never receives the signal to open, resulting in total silence and no heat. To confirm this, you must differentiate between a failed igniter and a failed Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. If the oven displays the correct temperature setting and the timer is counting down but you hear no humming or see no orange glow from the bottom of the oven, the igniter is the primary suspect. A failed control board usually manifests as a dead display, an error code (like F3 or F4), or a failure of both the bake and broil functions simultaneously. Because the broiler works, the main power supply to the oven is intact, narrowing the failure to the bake-specific circuit.

How to Fix It

To replace the bake igniter (Part Number: WPW10146113 or equivalent), follow these precise steps:

1. Disconnect the range from the 120V power outlet and shut off the main gas supply valve behind the unit to prevent accidental leaks during disassembly.
2. Open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Remove the bottom heating element cover (the metal plate covering the burner) by unscrewing the two hex-head screws located at the rear of the oven floor.
3. Locate the bake igniter assembly at the rear of the oven cavity. It consists of a small glow-bar element mounted to the bake burner tube.
4. Using a multimeter set to Ohms (Ω), touch the probes to the two terminals of the igniter wire harness. If the meter reads "OL" (Open Loop), the igniter is dead and must be replaced. A functional igniter should show a specific resistance range (typically between 30 and 100 Ohms depending on the specific revision).
5. Disconnect the wire harness from the old igniter. Carefully unscrew the mounting bracket holding the igniter to the burner tube. Be mindful not to bend the burner tube, as this can cause uneven heating or gas leaks.
6. Slide the new igniter into the bracket and tighten the screws securely. Ensure the glow-bar is positioned directly in the path of the gas flow.
7. Reconnect the wire harness, ensuring the connectors click firmly into place.
8. Reinstall the burner cover and restore power and gas. Set the oven to "Bake" at 350°F and observe the bottom of the oven; you should see a dim orange glow before the burner ignites.

If That Didn't Work

• Test the Oven Control Board (ERC): If the new igniter does not glow, the control board may not be sending 120V to the bake circuit. Use a multimeter to check for voltage at the harness connector leading to the igniter while the oven is set to Bake. If there is no voltage, the relay on the control board has failed and the board must be replaced.
• Inspect the Gas Safety Valve: If the igniter glows bright orange for several minutes but the gas never ignites, the safety valve (the solenoid that lets gas through) is likely stuck closed or failed. This requires replacing the oven gas valve assembly.
• Check for Thermal Fuse Failure: Inspect the wiring harness for any signs of scorching or melted insulation. A blown thermal fuse or a loose wire nut in the back panel can break the circuit to the bake element, preventing the igniter from receiving power.
• Verify the Temperature Sensor: If the sensor (the probe sticking out of the back wall) is reading an erroneously high temperature, the board will not trigger the igniter. Test the sensor for resistance; at room temperature (70°F), it should read approximately 1080 Ohms.

Heads Up

• Never touch the glow-bar of a new igniter with your bare fingers; skin oils can create "hot spots" on the element that lead to premature failure.
• When replacing the igniter, always check the condition of the wiring harness for "brittleness" caused by oven heat; if the insulation is cracking, wrap it in high-temperature fiberglass electrical tape.
• Ensure the oven is completely cool before attempting these repairs to avoid severe burns from the oven cavity walls.
• If you smell gas after the repair, immediately shut off the gas valve and use a soapy water solution to check the burner tube connections for bubbles.