Diagnosis
The continuous clicking sound you hear is the spark ignition module firing the electrodes repeatedly. This occurs when the spark module receives a "closed circuit" signal, tricking the control board into thinking a burner knob has been turned to the 'Lite' position. Because the range is cold and the knobs are off, the issue is almost always an electrical short or a mechanical failure in the switch assembly. The most common culprit is moisture or grease buildup inside the ignition switch behind the control knob. If liquid spills over the cooktop and seeps under the manifold, it can create a conductive bridge between the terminals of the switch, triggering the spark module. Alternatively, a worn-out spark module (Part No. WPW10146352) can suffer from internal relay failure, where the switch stays "latched" in the on position regardless of the knob setting. You can confirm this by removing the knobs; if the clicking stops when a specific knob is pulled out or wiggled, the switch for that burner is the failure point.
How to Fix It
To resolve the non-stop clicking, follow these precise steps to isolate and clean the ignition system:
- Safety First: Unplug the range from the 120V power outlet or flip the circuit breaker. Do not attempt this while the unit is powered, as the spark module stores high voltage.
- Clear the Surface: Remove all burner grates and burner caps. Inspect the spark electrodes (the small white ceramic pins). Use a soft toothbrush and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to clean any carbon buildup or food debris from the tip of the electrode.
- Inspect the Knobs: Pull all control knobs straight off the stems. Look for any sticky residue or grease that may be preventing the knob from returning to the full "Off" position.
- Clean the Switches: Locate the ignition switches behind the manifold. If you see signs of a spill, use a can of compressed air to blow out the crevices around the switch stems. For deep cleaning, apply a small amount of electronic contact cleaner (like WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner) directly into the switch assembly while rotating the stem back and forth.
- Test the Module: Plug the unit back in. If the clicking persists, the spark module itself has likely failed internally. You will need to remove the cooktop surface to access the module, disconnect the wiring harness, and replace the module with a new Whirlpool OEM part.
If That Didn't Work
- Replace the Ignition Switch Harness: If cleaning the switches didn't work, the internal plastic housing of the switch may be cracked or the contacts may be permanently fused. You will need to replace the specific burner switch assembly. This involves removing the manifold and disconnecting the wiring loom to install a new switch.
- Check for Grounding Shorts: Inspect the wiring harness leading from the spark module to the burners. Look for any pinched wires or melted insulation that could be touching the metal chassis of the range, which can cause phantom triggering.
- Verify the Spark Electrode Gap: If the clicking is happening but there is no spark, or the spark is jumping to the wrong place, use a feeler gauge to ensure the electrode is positioned approximately 1/8 inch from the burner cap. If it is bent too far away, the module may struggle to complete the circuit, causing erratic firing.
- Hard Reset the Control Board: Disconnect the power for at least 10 minutes. This clears the volatile memory of the control board and can sometimes reset a glitched spark module that is stuck in a firing loop.
Heads Up
- Avoid Over-Cleaning: Never use excessive water or liquid cleaners directly on the burner electrodes or around the knob stems; this is the primary cause of the "phantom clicking" issue.
- Knob Alignment: Ensure your knobs are seated fully on the D-shaped stems. If a knob is slightly crooked, it can put lateral pressure on the switch, keeping it partially engaged.
- Gas Leak Warning: If you smell gas while the range is clicking, immediately shut off the main gas valve and call a technician. A faulty switch can sometimes trigger the spark while gas is leaking from a poorly seated burner valve.
- OEM Parts Only: Always use genuine Whirlpool replacement spark modules. Generic aftermarket modules often have different voltage outputs that can burn out the ceramic electrodes prematurely.