my whirlpool gas range oven won't light, i can hear the clicking but no flame.

Diagnosis

The clicking sound you hear is the electronic spark igniter attempting to create an arc, which confirms that the control board is sending power and the ignition switch is functioning. However, the absence of a flame indicates a failure in the "gas-to-spark" handoff. In the Whirlpool WFG320M0MS, this is typically caused by one of two things: a failed glow-bar igniter or a clogged burner port. Unlike the stovetop burners which use a spark, the oven bake burner relies on a glow-bar igniter that must reach a specific temperature (approximately 2,000°F) to open the safety valve. If the igniter is glowing but the gas isn't flowing, the igniter has likely "drifted" in resistance. This means it glows bright orange—tricking you into thinking it's working—but it isn't actually getting hot enough to trigger the magnetic solenoid in the gas safety valve. Alternatively, if you are hearing clicking on the stovetop but the oven itself won't light, you may have a localized blockage in the orifice or a failed oven igniter element (Part #WPW10143234) that has developed a hairline fracture, breaking the electrical circuit.

How to Fix It

To resolve this, you must replace the oven igniter and clear the burner ports. Follow these exact steps:

1. Disconnect the range from the 120V power supply at the circuit breaker and shut off the gas supply valve located behind the unit to prevent accidental leaks.
2. Open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Remove the bottom oven floor panel by lifting it straight up and out of the chassis.
3. Locate the igniter assembly at the rear of the oven cavity. It is the small, greyish-black element positioned near the burner tube.
4. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver, remove the mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube.
5. Carefully pull the igniter assembly away from the burner. Disconnect the wire harness by pressing the plastic locking tab on the wiring connector.
6. Install the new igniter (WPW10143234). Ensure the element is seated firmly against the burner tube; if there is a gap, the heat won't transfer to the gas, and the valve won't open.
7. Reinstall the mounting screws and reconnect the wiring harness until you hear a distinct click.
8. Before replacing the floor panel, use a stiff nylon brush or a needle to clear any carbon buildup or debris from the burner ports immediately surrounding the igniter.
9. Reinstall the oven floor, restore power and gas, and attempt a test cycle.

If That Didn't Work

• Test the Safety Valve: If the igniter glows bright but no gas flows, the safety valve (the gas solenoid) may be seized. Use a multimeter to check for continuity across the valve terminals. If the circuit is open (infinite ohms), the valve is dead and must be replaced.
• Inspect the Gas Supply Line: Check the flexible gas connector behind the range for any kinks or obstructions. Ensure the shut-off valve is turned fully to the "Open" position. A partially closed valve can provide enough pressure for the stovetop but not enough to trigger the oven's safety valve.
• Check the Thermal Fuse: Locate the oven's thermal fuse on the back panel. If this fuse has blown due to overheating, the igniter will not receive power. Use a multimeter to verify continuity; if the fuse is blown, the oven will not heat regardless of the igniter's condition.
• Verify Control Board Output: If the igniter isn't glowing at all, check the voltage at the igniter plug using a voltmeter set to AC. If you aren't getting 120V during the preheat phase, the oven control board (ERC) has a failed relay and needs replacement.

Heads Up

• Fragility Warning: Never touch the grey glow-bar element of the igniter with your bare fingers. The oils from your skin can create a "hot spot" on the element, causing it to burn out prematurely.
• Soot Inspection: If you see heavy black soot around the burner tube after a successful fix, your air-to-gas mixture is off. This usually indicates a clogged primary orifice that needs cleaning with compressed air.
• Avoid "Quick Fixes": Do not attempt to "jump" the igniter or bypass the safety valve. This creates a significant risk of gas accumulation and explosion.
• Calibration: After replacing the igniter, run the oven at 350°F for 20 minutes to burn off any manufacturing residues from the new part before baking food.