just moved in, the large burner on the right front clicks continuously even when it's off.

Diagnosis

The continuous clicking you are hearing is the electronic ignition system (spark module) firing repeatedly. In the Whirlpool WFE515S0JS, the spark module sends a high-voltage pulse to the electrode to ignite the gas. When the system "clicks" while the knob is in the OFF position, it typically indicates a short circuit or a "phantom" signal being sent to the module, tricking it into thinking a burner has been turned to the 'Lite' position. This is most commonly caused by moisture infiltration or conductive debris (like spilled grease or cleaning chemicals) bridging the gap between the spark electrode and the burner head. If liquid has seeped into the spark electrode housing, it creates a path of least resistance for the electricity, causing the module to cycle rapidly. You can confirm this by observing the spark: if you see a small blue arc jumping from the ceramic electrode to the burner cap even when the knob is off, the issue is localized to the burner head. If there is no visible spark but the clicking persists, the issue is likely a faulty spark switch behind the control knob.

How to Fix It

To resolve this, you must thoroughly clean and dry the ignition assembly to break the electrical short.

1. Ensure the range is unplugged from the wall outlet to prevent electrical shocks and stop the clicking while you work.
2. Lift the heavy cast-iron grates off the cooktop. Carefully lift the circular burner cap off the right-front burner.
3. Locate the spark electrode—the small white ceramic pin with a metal tip located just to the side of the burner ports.
4. Use a cotton swab dipped in 90% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to clean the metal tip of the electrode and the surrounding area of the burner head. Remove any carbon buildup or grease.
5. Use a can of compressed air or a hairdryer on a low, cool setting to blow out any moisture trapped inside the burner base and around the electrode wiring.
6. Check the burner cap for any debris underneath. Wipe the underside of the cap clean.
7. Place the burner cap back on, ensuring it sits perfectly flush. If the cap is skewed even by a millimeter, the spark may jump to the wrong area, causing the module to misfire.
8. Plug the unit back in and test the burner.

If That Didn't Work

• Replace the Spark Electrode: If the white ceramic insulator on the electrode is cracked or pitted, the voltage will leak into the chassis of the range. You will need to replace the electrode assembly (Part #WPW10190346 or equivalent). This requires accessing the underside of the cooktop to disconnect the high-voltage wire.
• Replace the Surface Burner Switch: The clicking is often caused by a failed switch behind the control knob. If the switch has internal moisture or a failed spring, it can send a "start" signal to the module. Remove the plastic knob and unscrew the switch from the manifold to replace it.
• Swap the Spark Module: If multiple burners are clicking or the issue persists after replacing the switch and electrode, the spark module itself has likely suffered a capacitor failure. This module is located behind the control panel and must be replaced as a complete unit.
• Check for Grounding Issues: Ensure the range is properly grounded. A floating ground can occasionally cause erratic behavior in the ignition system, leading to ghost sparking.

Heads Up

• Never use a wire brush on the ceramic electrode; this can create microscopic scratches that lead to "arc-tracking," where the spark jumps the ceramic instead of hitting the burner.
• Avoid using heavy-duty liquid degreasers directly on the spark electrodes, as these chemicals can leave a conductive film that triggers the clicking.
• If you notice the clicking increases after you clean the stovetop with a wet cloth, always dry the electrodes with a hairdryer before turning the power back on.
• Ensure the burner caps are always aligned correctly; a misaligned cap is the number one cause of "popping" sounds during ignition.